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The 62 CA95 Basket Case Rescue Log, Start Date June 1st 2024

Spokes said:
No. The Allen screws end short of flush within the clamp. Only the smooth side of the clamp grips the chrome handlebar providing ground for the turn signal or any additional electrical connection.
Click to expand...
Got it!! Thanks
 
Spokes said:
I greased the odometer worm gears with machine gun grease (the plant I retired from made fine bearings for military). I didn't think of any dampener though. If for some reason I need to go back to the speedometer I can open it up again.

Finally put a close to the speedo story. Face is reattached with acetone thinned 2-part epoxy and coated in silver enamel. I laser cut a thicker gasket than stock to make up any roughness of my seal job. Any excess gasket once installed and subsequently compressed will be trimmed. Here is a couple of pics of the finished speedo.
View attachment 37462View attachment 37463View attachment 37464
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Speedometer saga continues! So, order a new speedometer cable. The bikes last 4 serial digits on the frame is 4135 (1962). I get the new speedometer cable, the cable fits the speedometer just fine, the speedometer drive end is too small! I ordered the right part number, as so I thought. Deep dive into part numbers against serial numbers I discover the drive unit fitting at the wheel changed sizes after frame number ending in 6000. So, I've ordered a speedometer drive for a 1963 -1965 model year. Now I'm pretty sure the wheel hubs did not change from year to year, if not, I will source a pre 1962 speedometer cable, after I hide all sharp things and avoid cliffs and bridges...
 
This old early girl is full of surprises. Yours is definitely older than my early type. Here is a chart I grabbed a few years ago from the old FB group.
My parts catalogue doesn't go back too far and only shows one type speedo drive and hub.
Mfvi2Aq.jpg
 
I based my decision to buy the later year speedometer based on the CMSNL Honda site. They show two different drives. Truth will be told when I get the later year drive.
Thanks for the great reference!


BOX. SPEEDOMETER GEAR

BOX. SPEEDOMETER GEAR​

product number: 44800202000
from serial number: CA95F-010001
up to serial number: CA95F-2100600


BOX SPEED GEAR

BOX SPEED GEAR​

product number: 44800202010
from serial number: CA95F-2100601
 
Spokes said:
Truth will be told when I get the later year drive.
Click to expand...
Confirmed. Earlier speedometer drive:
from serial number: CA95F-010001
up to serial number: CA95F-2100600 has a larger speedometer cable fitting at the wheel than the:
product number: 44800202010
from serial number: CA95F-2100601

Off with the wheel and install the later drive and cable assembly.
IMG_4051 - Copy.JPGIMG_4052 - Copy.JPG
 
Phew. End of speedo saga. The 1965 speedometer drive fits the 1962 front wheel hub and index. Final answer, if someone is restoring a 1959-1962 CA95 and cannot locate a speedometer cable for said years, install a later year speedometer drive and buy the speedometer cable for 1963-1965 CA95 model years. The speedometer fitting is the same and the newer speedometer drive will fit the earlier wheel hub. Moving on.....
 
What type of and location for rectifier are you using?

The black plastic chain protector on the swing arm is upside down, IIRC, the gap faces up. The chain case tins fit better.
 
ballbearian said:
The black plastic chain protector on the swing arm is upside down, IIRC, the gap faces up. The chain case tins fit better.
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I'm not sure of that. Logically, since the chain is traveling over and under the protector, one would think the chain would catch a gap lip and tear it off. I'll address the concern after engine mount.
I'm using original rectifier for the time being. resurrection projects like this one have a "phase 2". Phase 2 is time of reconning, that is what I did right, wrong and what components work or not. I keep the electrical system as original as possible to keep the possibilities of failures down to a minimum. Once she's up and running, I will go to the solid-state rectifier.

While I'm at it, I'm posting a picture of my external "conduit" containing the wires for the front turn signals. Plastic chrome door edging, trimmed down at the bullet light and shrink tube secured. Next is how I wire the external turn signal switch.IMG_4060.JPG
 
I know the protector gap doesn't seem logical but the welding bead from the swingarm shaft prevents it from being flipped over good and the edges for the chainguard tins don't fit as well.

Innovative use for the door edge trim. Cool.

My new Sparck Moto reg/rec is under the left side cover now.
iQ1ltB2m.jpg
 
I'll be darned. Your 10K% correct about the chain protector! I've been putting on wrong all of these years using logic! Can we say DUH? Thanks for pointing that out! Now for a big piece of Humble Pie after my Crow dinner! IMG_4062.JPG
 
Flash! I just discovered another early/late difference. The left headlight switch, on the early ones, have an off position between high and low and, of course, no indicator on the speedo face. The later bikes have an indicator but no off detent on the left hand switch.
My 64 Dream and 62 C200 has the off detent too but the 65 160, Dream and Benly don't.
 
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I've been thinking about listing the differences between early and late models. The list is quite detailed, so I decided to backstep and suggest making sure to check years, part numbers as well as frame/engine numbers before ordering. Frankly all of my previous CA95 builds have been 1964-1965 and mostly every part I ordered fit. This time with my 62, I've learned about several changes that took place sometime mid 63. I've always hungered for knowledge and enjoy even the mistakes along the journey.
 
Next steps of my project will focus on wiring. Here is a picture of the turn signal switch and wiring soon to be secured in the headlamp bucket. The handlebar switch shown is a multi-function switch. Only the on-off-on side is used. Up is left turn signal, down is right turn signal. Basically, to wire turn signals one takes a fused "hot" to one side the flasher. The second flasher contact is wired up front to the switch neutral or center position as "hot". Both left and right signals, front and back are tied together and connected to the wire connected to the switch right and left position post. Switch up connects hot to left hand lights, switch down connects with right hand lights. Resistance makes the flasher blink. Additionally, the switch has self-made handlebar gasket from liquid rubber past, kind of like a dental impression. Shrink tubing is painted silver. Yes, you can paint shrink tubing. IMG_4064.JPG
 
Time stamp 10-10-2024. Turn signals complete, wiring connected in the headlight bucket, headlight and nice chrome rim found on eBay for low money.
I plan to park the bike temporarily and suspend further efforts until I get the head back from the machine shop. I decided to send out the head to have valve seats cut and new valves installed. Before and now pics.IMG_2965.JPGIMG_4076.JPG
 
Many small differences after model year 1962 for the CA95, I now have doubts about what may fit and what is correct. I decided to work on the seat. Some time ago I buy a crappy, but structurally sound seat advertised for a CA95. I get the seat, strip it down, clean it up and paint it. I take it over to the bike to discover the seat is too long and misses the rear mount by an inch. Looks kind of wide as well. I just happen to have a new seat cover, never used and I can't remember which bike I bought it for. Maybe it's for one of past CA95's, 160's of perhaps the 250 or 305. Ok, so I prepare the frame with new foam, ready to add the new seat cover. The seat cover is too short. I cut out one inch of the seat frame and welded the new shorter frame back together. I attached the rear springs directly to the coil spring frame, thus making up for the missing inch of frame to keep spring tension the same as before the modification. The seat cover fits, the frame fits. The finished picture of the completed seat appears to be a 250 or 305 seat frame, shortened to fit the CA95, with an aftermarket CA95 seat cover. Once the bike is complete, I may replace the seat or maybe find the larger seat more comfortableIMG_4105.JPGIMG_4106.JPGIMG_4107.JPG.
 
Two pics, the cylinder head. 1st pic is before (remember bent valve?) and 2nd pic after. Logic has failed me before, but it seems the valves are reversed. Then again, maybe not. I recall doing a brake job (50 years ago) on my 67 SS327 Chevy Impala. I replaced the rear brakes exactly as I found them, only to discover the PO installed them wrong. Could the valves be reversed, Larger for exhaust, smaller for intake?View attachment 38448View attachment 38449
 
Spokes said:
Two pics, the cylinder head. 1st pic is before (remember bent valve?) and 2nd pic after. Logic has failed me before, but it seems the valves are reversed. Then again, maybe not. I recall doing a brake job (50 years ago) on my 67 SS327 Chevy Impala. I replaced the rear brakes exactly as I found them, only to discover the PO installed them wrong. Could the valves be reversed, Larger for exhaust, smaller for intake?View attachment 38448View attachment 38449
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Pictures not showing. Measure the diameter of the valve seats, that should indicate which valve fits
 
I think pics disappeared when I attempted to delete my post. I reacted too fast. I'm posting a pic of the installed intake valves alongside the cleaned up original sample.
The installed intake valve has a depression and appears to be thicker, and it lapped in even in the seat.
As mentioned, several times in my thread, I run into differences between the 1963 and later and pre 1963 and earlier CA95's. The intake valve is slightly larger the exhaust valve.
Thanks for your input!IMG_4119.JPG
 
Thanks. What threw me off was that the larger replacement intake valve is a bit thicker and sports a depression than the original flat valve. I'm going to leave the head alone and gamble it's ok. There are two "gambles" regarding this engine. First, is honing the cylinder to fit the .25 over pistons and second, the intake valve replacement. I also wanted to include a pic of the valve train cleaned up and ready for installation. Parts in the picture, as well as the cylinder head came with the bike.
One regret. I gave up the cylinder to the local metal recycler. It now dawns on me that I could have repurposed the cylinder and made a pressure tester. It would have been interesting to be able to pressure test the head before installation. Hindsight is always 20/20.IMG_4120.JPG
 
You can at least test the head with valves and springs installed by laying on it's side and filling the intake and exhaust ports with gas or very thin liquid.
 
ballbearian said:
You can at least test the head with valves and springs installed by laying on it's side and filling the intake and exhaust ports with gas or very thin liquid.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion! I did exactly as you suggested and happy to report no leakage. My bikes in the past have been 1964 to 1968 model years. In the past, I've sourced two engines, one for my CA95 Build from Scratch and the other for the CA95 Army bike. Both engines 1964 &1965 model years. I basically cleaned the head, lapped the valves, bored the cylinders, cleaned the internals, replaced gaskets and seals and I was good to go. This time around with this 62 has been a different experience. As mentioned in previous posts, I bought a 1963 CA95 engine with so called low mileage, but "stuck". The engine was wasted by massive internal rust and seized rod. Ok, so I get the engine back together and I need to service the head. The sourced engine head can't use. Rust grit destroyed machined surface the cam rides on. The head that came with the bike, presuming it was part of the original engine, may have sat for decades, but alas, still good, with the exception of a bent valve. The bent valve, due to an incorrect single valve spring (somebody installed the wrong valve spring) broke the valve guide. I decided to install new valve guides and valves. I was going to send out the head and have the job done. Estimate cost $350 + Shipping to and from Utah. Let's say $400.00 with shipping. That's with my parts sent with the head! Valve guides and valves-$100, so now I have $500.00 in the head alone. So, I buy the driver for the guides, remove the old ones, install new ones, buy the correct reamer, ream the guides, lap in the new valves (seats looked ok)
The intake valve appeared different as it was dimpled rather than flat. My thoughts reverted back to the fact 1962 CA95 and earlier may have parts that differ from 1963 and later models.
Thus, my questions regarding valves for this build.
One other aspect, that makes me nuts is the lack of common knowledge at local motorcycle dealerships, like "Can you cut valve seats?" Whatsa valve seat?
I appreciate forums like this one, I think those of us who like wrenching and understand basic mechanical terms, are a dying breed. If you read this far, thanks for reading it!
 
Spokes said:
I appreciate forums like this one, I think those of us who like wrenching and understand basic mechanical terms, are a dying breed.
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It's definitely a problem that's only getting worse. There's basically no engine rebuilding today in the mainstream shops so they never learn the actual working components and how to service them, or even really how things function. Not to sound like "get off my lawn" guy, but so many more of recent generations went to college instead of technical schools or going into the mechanical field at a local shop, the drop in general mechanical experience among the masses is way more than just attrition from the old ones dying off. And the way local shops either decline to work on vintage, or purport to be able to while often screwing up the job, things don't really look to improve.
 
Spokes said:
Thanks for the suggestion! I did exactly as you suggested and happy to report no leakage. My bikes in the past have been 1964 to 1968 model years. In the past, I've sourced two engines, one for my CA95 Build from Scratch and the other for the CA95 Army bike. Both engines 1964 &1965 model years. I basically cleaned the head, lapped the valves, bored the cylinders, cleaned the internals, replaced gaskets and seals and I was good to go. This time around with this 62 has been a different experience. As mentioned in previous posts, I bought a 1963 CA95 engine with so called low mileage, but "stuck". The engine was wasted by massive internal rust and seized rod. Ok, so I get the engine back together and I need to service the head. The sourced engine head can't use. Rust grit destroyed machined surface the cam rides on. The head that came with the bike, presuming it was part of the original engine, may have sat for decades, but alas, still good, with the exception of a bent valve. The bent valve, due to an incorrect single valve spring (somebody installed the wrong valve spring) broke the valve guide. I decided to install new valve guides and valves. I was going to send out the head and have the job done. Estimate cost $350 + Shipping to and from Utah. Let's say $400.00 with shipping. That's with my parts sent with the head! Valve guides and valves-$100, so now I have $500.00 in the head alone. So, I buy the driver for the guides, remove the old ones, install new ones, buy the correct reamer, ream the guides, lap in the new valves (seats looked ok)
The intake valve appeared different as it was dimpled rather than flat. My thoughts reverted back to the fact 1962 CA95 and earlier may have parts that differ from 1963 and later models.
Thus, my questions regarding valves for this build.
One other aspect, that makes me nuts is the lack of common knowledge at local motorcycle dealerships, like "Can you cut valve seats?" Whatsa valve seat?
I appreciate forums like this one, I think those of us who like wrenching and understand basic mechanical terms, are a dying breed. If you read this far, thanks for reading it!
Click to expand...
That's great. You hadn't really shared all the head work you did, but it's really pretty interesting to me. I haven't had bad guides yet in the ones I've done. I actually bought a real cheesy Chinese valve seat cutter kit that kind of worked to get one useable and bought some Asian replacement valves (that did look different) and was able to get it leak tight. It runs good, valve adjustments seem to be holding and it maintains good compression so if it lasts ok, I'm calling it success.
This forum, to me, is kind of the new 'old' frontier, of retro repair wisdom with all the determined old guys and the wealth of experienced wrench veterans that I'm very grateful for.
Thanks for posting.
Tom Hanna
 
ancientdad said:
It's definitely a problem that's only getting worse. There's basically no engine rebuilding today in the mainstream shops so they never learn the actual working components and how to service them, or even really how things function. Not to sound like "get off my lawn" guy, but so many more of recent generations went to college instead of technical schools or going into the mechanical field at a local shop, the drop in general mechanical experience among the masses is way more than just attrition from the old ones dying off. And the way local shops either decline to work on vintage, or purport to be able to while often screwing up the job, things don't really look to improve.
Click to expand...
I often have those "Grand Torino" moments. Unsung heroes are where you find them.
 
I meant to ask, are you going to check the head mating surface by sanding on a plate glass sheet (old refrigerator shelves) also the cylinder top too?
 
ballbearian said:
I meant to ask, are you going to check the head mating surface by sanding on a plate glass sheet (old refrigerator shelves) also the cylinder top too?
Click to expand...
Yes, but only to clean up the surface. I have a piece of flat tool steel that I use for such tasks. I hope the head is flat enough to use. We think that mechanically inclined people are hard to find, try looking for a machinist to mill a flat surface.
 
Just a time stamp and reflection. With exception of tappet adjustments, the head for my 62 is complete and set aside waiting for my new cam chain. I'm fairly convinced the cylinder heads were not meant to be repaired, but rather replaced as needed, double especially pre 63 models. The tachometer drive was a pistol to remove as the small access bolt dimpled the bronze tach drive bushing, making removal of the drive bushing impossible. Hiding a mounting screw behind the bushing was pure evil. I'm sure there are some wizards who are successful removing said bushing. I removed the bushing barbarically.

Headed back to my hometown soon and while I'm there, I will pick up engine mounting bolts and a few chrome nuts from the machine shop that produces fasteners for custom motorcycles. A couple of pics of before and after of the cylinder head.

head as found.jpgIMG_4123.JPGIMG_4124.JPGIMG_4125.JPG
 
Today, I finally got the cylinder head mounted on the engine. I neglected to order a new breather gasket, so while I wait for delivery, I will begin teardown of the starter. I have high hopes the starter is not as bad as the engine. We shall see. My visits home always include my two brothers from different mothers. No, I have one blood sister and one blood brother. My two brothers from different mothers are friends I met September 1964. We have grown old together. After decades of friendship, we became brothers.
I tell this story because attached are two additional pictures besides the CA95 project engine. One of my brothers gave me an April 1968 Cycle magazine. Attached pictures are of the new Honda line-up, two-page ad. The third is the Harley Rapido, my very 1st legal motorcycle, April 1968 was one month before turning 16. Regrets of the time was my father's hatred of Japanese anything. He was still pissed over WW2. Anyone who drove a Japanese car or motorcycle had to park it on the street. Fortunately, at the time, my "brother" Dave rode a Harley Sprint. Cheers!IMG_4181.JPGIMG_4171.JPGIMG_4182.JPG
 
The starter motor. Perfectly preserved. All I need to do is clean and add new grease. Actually, the grease inside the gearbox smells good! Keep in mind the engine I bought is from 1963. I guess Honda must have changed starter motor suppliers for production years 1964 & 1965. This starter is built about as rugged as they come. Later year starters had separate field coils and paper insulation gaskets. Finally, the only non-crash & burn part of the 1963 motor I purchased is the starter. IMG_4188.JPGIMG_4184.JPGIMG_4190.JPGIMG_4185.JPGIMG_4186.JPG
 
Spokes said:
One of my brothers gave me an April 1968 Cycle magazine. Attached pictures are of the new Honda line-up, two-page ad. The third is the Harley Rapido, my very 1st legal motorcycle, April 1968 was one month before turning 16. Regrets of the time was my father's hatred of Japanese anything. He was still pissed over WW2. Anyone who drove a Japanese car or motorcycle had to park it on the street. Fortunately, at the time, my "brother" Dave rode a Harley Sprint. Cheers!
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Cool magazine! My second bike was a '69 CL450. Funny that your father hated Japanese products, but the Italian Aermacchi Sprint was OK. Italy was one of the Axis powers in WWII. I have a 1970 350SS Sprint in fairly decent condition, and very complete. I hope I get around to it before I check out. It has occurred to me before that I have bikes from most of the big powers of WWII: American, British, Japanese, German, Italian, and even Austrian. That just happened sort of by accident. I don't have a Ural, though, but they're just a poor copy of a BMW and I do have a couple of those. My dad just hated motorcycles period, regardless of who made them. I think I have overcompensated for that, becoming sort of a mcy hoarder. At least that's one excuse. :rolleyes:
 
fxray said:
Funny that your father hated Japanese products, but the Italian Aermacchi Sprint was OK. Italy was one of the Axis powers in WWII.
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His cousin was killed in Belgium by Nazis, Germany invaded Poland, and his parents were Polish immigrants, but he drove a 1964 Mercedes. My argument as stated, if voiced at the time only resulted in getting slapped.
 
Just a quick time stamp. I'm still waiting for my breather gasket. The gasket was shipped by regular mail, and I assume with current events is backed up somewhere. My project is now at or near the six month of my one-year time plan. Two pics. One of my bounties of chrome fasteners brought back from my family visit (good to have connections) and the second is the engine in waiting. Internal argument decided to shine castings rather than paint. Retirement=More time than money. Time can make money, but money can't make time. Enjoy!IMG_4162.JPGIMG_4209.JPG
 
ballbearian said:
Wish I had connections like that.
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I've been lucky in some respects for sure.
I finally found a carburetor for my project. Not only any carb, but an early CA95 carb at that! (PW20HOV) Price was right as well. This carb had a challenge. No apparent way to remove the bowl. The bowl was adhered by the gasket to the body. Looks like the carb was never disassembled. That's a plus in my book. 12-hour soak in mineral spirits (not odorless type), 2-hour hot bath in the ultra-sonic cleaner unit with 50/50 Simple Green and water and several hour soak in 50% acetone/Isopropanol alcohol broke the bond. About 15 minutes of light taping with a wooded 1" dowl rod and the bowl finally let go. The inside of the bowl was clean, amazing.
Next steps: clean ports & jets and polish the outside. I may need a kit for gaskets, but this time around I plan to salvage original jets. Attached are a few pics. I'm in the market for a carb insulator.IMG_4210.JPGIMG_4218.JPGIMG_4222.JPG
 
Before (duplicate pic from above) and after (still in progress pic) of my newly procured carb for my project. Results from Ultra-Sonic bath, Dremel brass brushes used NOT with a Dremel, but rather with a variable speed electric drill at low RPMS and a buffing wheel. I had to buy a rebuild kit for the gaskets, so parts put aside until parts arrive. Hopefully engine and carb will be mounted in a couple of weeks. Enjoy!IMG_4210.JPGIMG_4223.JPG
 
My project slowed a bit due to procuring small bits needed for the engine. The cylinder and head assembly complete. I'm guilty of wiggle worm alternatives to the norm on occasion in efforts to throttle down costs. One example is the cam chain. I really wanted a new cam chain. So, I thought I could get away with a 219H type. Fit perfectly but the 219H is slightly different than the DK219, meaning my DK219 master link won't fit. DK219 post measures 3.09mm whereas the 219H post measures 2.86mm. Oddly, 219H master links are rivet type and I lack the tool and space to rivet properly. But I did find a clip type 219H master link and ordered it. But I have little faith it's correct. I finally gave in and ordered a used cam chain for the CA95 just in case. Case in point, I spent more trying to get around procuring the correct chain. I'm not too concerned as knowledge has its costs. The carburetor has been rebuilt and the correct insulator is on its way. The attached pic is just a time stamp as she sits until I get the cam chain figured out. Then onto the bike it goes,IMG_4244.JPG
 
11-19-24. The engine now stands "bench" complete and ready to mount into the frame. Right side cover is loosely mounted as I need to check clutch action and stiffness before adding oil to the crankcase. 2nd pic is zero time as received. Unknown to me at the time the engine was junk and only the upper half, side case, starter, misc. small parts and cylinders were salvageable. IMG_4311.JPG63 engine.jpg
 
Thanks! Indeed, the side castings are shiny, but not too shiny. I'm still trying to preserve that "old school" look when my project is complete.
Ignition plate with points and condenser came with the bike, so they are vintage 1962. Prices today for some of these old, or shall I say "vintage" seems high. I recall 6 + decades ago, we cleaned and filed points for our bikes and cars. I figured, what the hey, why can't I do the same thing to these old points? So attached is before and after points and condenser assembly, IMG_4316b4.JPGIMG_4327After.JPGebay 5.jpgIMG_4328[1]ftr.JPGalthough I found it prudent to upgrade the fasteners. In addition, attached is the very left cover with the points assembly as found, brought back from the scrap yard and what the side cover and points look like today.
 
I still use the points file that came in the Dream toolkit. If the bump or spike is very big on the points face then the condenser may be shot, a big spark arcs and causes the pointy tit. A proper spark is tiny and hard to see in bright light.
 
Yes, I believe the point assembly is original 1962 vintage. I should have mentioned once again that the points assembly had been sitting outside the bike since 1966. So, the point assembly needed to be disassembled down to the last nut and washer, then cleaned, de-rusted and reassembled, like the rest of the bike.
Points did have a small tit and valley. Like the rest of the electrical system, we will see if any of my work was worth the effort of recovery once I hit the starter button.
On a side note, I can't lift the engine off of the bench. Hopefully my neighbor, 2/3rds my age and half a foot taller than I will do it for me. Old age is slowly making a poof outta me.
 
ballbearian said:
I don't really trust in the bolt for an adequate ground, so I run an extra ground wire, with eyelet for the bolt, directly to the battery negative. After noticing signs of overheating on the 3 positive wires on those (or even outright fried unit failures) I was clued in to the fact (by others) that a good negative return was essential to a balance of current flow.
For what it's worth, I've gone with those simple units like the one you pictured for awhile but eventually now have a Sparck Moto 6volt rectifier with a voltage sensing black wire, that I tied to the rear brake light switched positive lead for a regulator function as well. I think this is now finally the extra robustness that I've sought from various bulb blowing spikes, battery overstress and such that seem to pop up sometimes on these old bikes, like my 63 Be
Click to expand...
Well, I put in the old rectifier anyway. Today, I completed the electrical system. Installed my new battery. Turned the ignition key to "on", 15-amp fuse blew. Installed another fuse and quickly turned the ignition key past "on" to lights. Head light illuminated dim and died. I have a short. I've gone through pains to make sure connections are correct and clean. Four theories where the short may be. 1.) Old rectifier 2.) Ignition switch 3.) Alternator assembly 4.) Somewhere in the jammed packed wiring in the headlight bucket.
I plan to replace the rectifier with a solid-state unit previously mentioned first. This little unit may not be as robust as the Sparck Moto unit as per Ballbearian's reply above, but if the fuse does not burn when I turn on the ignition I can upgrade as needed. If #1 proves no solution, then on to the rest. I actually don't mind the journey. Later this week cold weather returns, and to me, nothing like being retired, cold outside, warm coffee, warm shop with music playing in my Bluetooth connected hearing aids. Yea, my hearing is shot. Metal working plants, great sound systems & old age.....
 
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