• Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.

    AD

The 62 CA95 Basket Case Rescue Log, Start Date June 1st 2024

Here are two shots of the paint on this bike. One is the only side picture before loading the bike to bring home, the other picture is how the paint looks today. I started degreasing and removing tar with PB Blaster. I then wet sanded the paint using PB Blaster and 2000 grit sandpaper. I followed up with degreaser and 00 steel wool. I then washed the bike with Dawn liquid dish soap. I once again wet sanded the paint with 2000 grit sandpaper and Evapo-Rust and allowed the Evapo-Rust to remain on the surface of the paint for 15 minutes followed by Dawn dish soap and 00 steel wool washed again. IMG_2963.JPGside glance CA95 6 18 24.JPG. Finally, I used automotive polishing compound. Prior to final assembly I may apply a whisper thin coating of old fashion marine Spar varnish rather than clear coat. But not before air brush touch up with color matched automotive paint on the taillight repair and a few "sore spots".
 
Today I'm working on front suspension. I pulled the covers and bushings off one of the suspension arms. I was well aware of the grease seals behind the caps. The grease seals are spent and need replacing upon reassembly. The seals are made from felt. A digital micrometer and a laser cutter are all one needs to create your own felt seals. felt dust gaskets.JPG
 
My advances seem like baby steps at this point. Here is a couple of pics of the handlebars with the brake and clutch levers cleaned up. Keep i mind that these parts are chemically "aged" otherwise they would stand out as bright chrome like polished parts. I will install turn signals front and back. I'll cover the wiring and parts later in the build. handlebars before.JPGhandlebars w levers.JPG
 
No secret about my fondness of metal restoration chemistries. I especially enjoy chemistry and electricity; one type is plating. Zinc plating kits like the ones Caswell sells makes zinc plating easy for the hobby shop. Often times steel fasteners found on old bikes, especially those found like the one I'm working on, are cosmetically in poor shape but in sound condition. Below are before and after pics of the front wheel hub washer.  Before Zinc.JPGAfter Zinc.JPG
 
Front shock pic. Skin and Sheetmetal will be left alone and treated as not to continue to corrode. Mechanical and electrical components to be restored to like new or better.
 

Attachments

  • Front Shocks Left Right.JPG
    Front Shocks Left Right.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 13
@Spokes I continue to be impressed with your metal refinishing skills! Carry on , good man… looking great!
(After seeing the frame refresh, and all of this since, it has only reinforced my personal opinion/choice of patina over a glistening restoration. )
 
Thanks! I would like to share a couple of tricks and products I use to do my project(s). This project the sheet metal parts will retain original patina (I love the name "patina". I'm not old, I'm aged...) Anyway, some parts, especially the deep pitted trim as well as wheel parts will be cleaned, some zinc plated then painted. Attached pictures will show a few parts and products I use.

In addition to the home Zinc plating kit (uses 2 D cell batteries. Fall of the log easy.

Concrete Anchor. The easiest way to drive out bearings from hubs.

Marine Spar Varnish-This is old school marine varnish. Not urethane. Cut 50% with Spar Varnish Brushing Thinner, Rub to a high gloss. (my secret for fine wood finishes as well)

Seymour Hi-Tech Chrome Aluminum Engine paint. The closest silver to original Honda silver I have found so far.

3M Green Glazing Putty. AKA Spot putty. Once deep corrosion pits are clean, prime 1st then begin application of spot putty/wet sand/reapply technique until smooth. Do a final prime then paint
IMG_3044.JPGIMG_3044.JPGIMG_3045.JPGIMG_3271.JPGIMG_3274.JPGIMG_3281.JPGIMG_3282.JPGIMG_3284.JPG
 
Of all of the Honda's I have built, I had never seen an air pump mount and lock. The 62 has the original mounts with a lock and no key. So, I can barely make out the three digit number so it could be an 804 or 304. Lesson #1. Honda has ignition keys with these codes. Ignition key's do not fit. Time & money wasted. Finally, I give up and take the lock assembly to my local locksmith. The guy behind the counter, my age, recognized the lock and remembers the bikes! Oh, he said, while pointing to his left, I have a whole wall of vintage Honda keys! Not one fit the lock grove/size profile. Just leave the lock with me and I'll call you when its ready. Yep! Got the call today.

So, my share with all is forget eBay for rare tire pump keys. I see them listed for $25.00 and up for the blank!

My share as seen in pictures isIMG_3287.JPGIMG_3288.JPGIMG_3290.JPG Taylor Key Blank H76VR Fits vintage Honda tire pump locks. All you need is a locksmith to determine the cut. End of the day I spent $31.00 for two keys.
 
Just a log in regarding my project. Salvageable parts cleaned. Original paint remains as planned. I could not bring myself to salvage spokes and reinstall one original rim. A voice from the past reminded me not to cut corners with essential assemblies. My father's associate purchased a used cheap motorcycle for his son of back in 1971. The bike, Italian if I recall correctly, needed repair. Corners cut. Once complete the bike was to be used on Drummond Island, UP of Michigan. They owned a cabin back in the woods. Apparently, the throttle cable broke. He crashed just wrong. The end.

Upcoming I plan to:
Lace and true wheels. (new rims & spokes on order)
Unwrap and inspect wiring and connections and rewrap with additional wiring for turn signals.
Repair damaged sheet metal hole where taillight mounts.

Eventually build the bike back less engine with a little finesse.

I will be in the market for an engine and/or parts as it becomes available after September.
Thanks!
 
Spokes said:
Ah! OK. I have not looked closely at the top end, referring to the head/OHV/tachometer assembly. I can tell you that one cylinder is broken at the bottom and one piston has damage. I will get some pictures in for reference, my guess and only conjecture and it may sound wild, but it appears the engine may have been rebuilt and for sone crazy reason one piston rod was not attached to the piston. Kind of slapped together. So, when whoever hit the starter button the free rod tore into the piston bottom, breaking off the lower cylinder and sending the pieces through the upper crankcase. I get some shots uploaded in a few days. The serial number on these engines happens to be on the upper crankcase. The upper crankcase is damaged. Pictures soon!
Click to expand...
7-12-24 Update. As previously assumed that the engine may have been rebuilt incorrectly, I have to back pedal. I decided to tear down the cylinder head today and found this.  I also found the oil pump body cracked. So, the total damage was cracked cylinder base, broken rod with the rod bearing gone, bent valve (exhaust) One piston destroyed. Upper case broken behind the starter. The cause of the engine failure? Likely, someone just revved the engine as high as she could rev until the engine overheated and exploded. IMG_3319.JPG
 
I dearly miss is the simplicity of mechanical/electrical aspects of yesteryear. Which is another reason why I take on the old junkyard Honda Dreams. In this case, the starter solenoid. I use a 6-volt lantern battery and a continuity light to check electrical connections. Today, I checked the starter solenoid. No response. Dead. But no! The starter solenoid sat idle for nearly 60yrs in the frame. The starter solenoid top and bottom is removeable. A little 10wt oil (aka 3 in 1) on the plunger shaft inside and on the bottom of the plunger outside freed up the electro mechanism. Another piece of the puzzle put away until final reassembly. IMG_3323.JPGIMG_3324.JPGIMG_3325.JPG
 
Spokes said:
7-12-24 Update. As previously assumed that the engine may have been rebuilt incorrectly, I have to back pedal. I decided to tear down the cylinder head today and found this.  I also found the oil pump body cracked. So, the total damage was cracked cylinder base, broken rod with the rod bearing gone, bent valve (exhaust) One piston destroyed. Upper case broken behind the starter. The cause of the engine failure? Likely, someone just revved the engine as high as she could rev until the engine overheated and exploded. View attachment 34587
Click to expand...
That bent valve would make a nice trophy part for a Memorable Mongo Maneuver award.
 
An unexpected find this evening. The engine is from 1963. (kinda-sorta period correct) Currently arranging shipping. As always, engine will be disassembled, evaluated and repaired as needed. I think my project may be completed sooner than one year.63 engine.jpg
 
Spokes said:
I dearly miss is the simplicity of mechanical/electrical aspects of yesteryear. Which is another reason why I take on the old junkyard Honda Dreams. In this case, the starter solenoid. I use a 6-volt lantern battery and a continuity light to check electrical connections. Today, I checked the starter solenoid. No response. Dead. But no! The starter solenoid sat idle for nearly 60yrs in the frame. The starter solenoid top and bottom is removeable. A little 10wt oil (aka 3 in 1) on the plunger shaft inside and on the bottom of the plunger outside freed up the electro mechanism. Another piece of the puzzle put away until final reassembly. View attachment 34594View attachment 34595View attachment 34596
Click to expand...
Did not know you could open these and service them. Thanks for sharing !!!
 
Always pleased to share tips!
Another tip I wish to share is shipping small engines the size of 150cc or less and greasy engine parts. Coleman or similar coolers. The cooler will prevent leakage and the lid can be secured with heavy tape and/or deck screws & washers. More expensive than cartons & bags, but a lot cleaner with less chance of leaks!
 
Spokes said:
Always pleased to share tips!
Another tip I wish to share is shipping small engines the size of 150cc or less and greasy engine parts. Coleman or similar coolers. The cooler will prevent leakage and the lid can be secured with heavy tape and/or deck screws & washers. More expensive than cartons & bags, but a lot cleaner with less chance of leaks!
Click to expand...
I wanted to follow up with a few pictures of the engine I bought for my 62 project and the costs for example. I found a super low mileage 1963 CA95 complete engine (370 miles on the odometer of the donor bike) in Owatonna Minnesota, 762 miles away from Lexington, KY. Price was $175. I sent a 60 qt Coleman cooler to the seller $ 67.00. FedEx shipping $148.00 (not bad for transporting 100#, 780 miles) So, $390 delivered. I went for this option based on the outrageous asking prices for pieces parts on eBay. Below are a few shots of the package.engine shipment 1.jpgengine shipment 2.jpgengine shipment 3.jpgengine shipment 4.jpg
 
Sounds like a great motor. Worth the extra for the cooler added protection. I've had shipping damage on the last two motors I bought on ebay from reputable salvage sellers.
I guess, you could have a cooler drop shipped to the seller from amazon, saving some extra cooler shipping.
 
That's a cool idea (no pun intended) to send a cooler as a shipping container. I can imagine the surprise for the delivery driver when discovering that the weight of the loaded box did not match expectation.
 
Spokes said:
I wanted to follow up with a few pictures of the engine I bought for my 62 project and the costs for example. I found a super low mileage 1963 CA95 complete engine (370 miles on the odometer of the donor bike) in Owatonna Minnesota, 762 miles away from Lexington, KY. Price was $175. I sent a 60 qt Coleman cooler to the seller $ 67.00. FedEx shipping $148.00 (not bad for transporting 100#, 780 miles) So, $390 delivered. I went for this option based on the outrageous asking prices for pieces parts on eBay. Below are a few shots of the package.View attachment 34656View attachment 34657View attachment 34658View attachment 34659
Click to expand...
Oohh, I was hoping for grass fed beef steaks in that cooler …..filets, New York strips…… I guess a vintage twin is second best,!!😁
 
Yakeye said:
Oohh, I was hoping for grass fed beef steaks in that cooler …..filets, New York strips…… I guess a vintage twin is second best,!!😁
Click to expand...
That's one of the funniest replies I've seen this year... and I could go for a grass-fed filet myself!
 
ballbearian said:
Sounds like a great motor. Worth the extra for the cooler added protection. I've had shipping damage on the last two motors I bought on ebay from reputable salvage sellers.
I guess, you could have a cooler drop shipped to the seller from amazon, saving some extra cooler shipping.
Click to expand...
Actually, I did send the cooler via Amazon. Then I went "ship" shopping. FedEx provided best pricing and shipping time. UShip came in better than twice the price with slow boat delivery times. I will report out cooler and motor condition when the package arrives. Afterward I plan to inspect clutch side case. If no sign of metallic chips I will clean up the clutch plates and reassemble. If all goes well, I'll install the engine and fire it up late next month!
 
The rear fender was damaged at the taillight. I had to drill out the spot welds (the reason for the unusual bolt pattern in the fender) to remove the taillight. The sheet metal was damaged. I cleaned the damage and cut a piece of 16-gauge metal and drilled a pilot hole in the metal patch. Using a fastener, I was able to secure the patch against the fender opening by pinching what was left of original wire access hole in the frame and the new patch opening. I really did not want to paint the fender, but I found paint that was pretty close. So,RearFender.JPGIMG_3329.JPGIMG_3351.JPGIMG_3352.JPG the rest of the bike remains "as is" with a pretty nice rear fender.
 
Do I understand correctly that your patch roughly matches the shape of the complicated hole in the original fender? The final result looks very good!
 
Tonight, the rear wheel is laced with new spokes. The rear hub that came with the bike was broken. So, another hub/brake/axle assembly was sourced, bearings and seals pulled and cleaned. Bearings seal good. IMG_3385.JPG I decided to clean and remove the rust from the front wheel rim and reuse the rim for the rear. A new aftermarket rim to be laced tomorrow. The aftermarket rim spoke nipple holes need to be enlarged. Another reason to have a tapered reamer handy to open holes in steel. Confession time. I'm gifted with lots of talents. Lacing rims is not one of them. My wife, who is extremely talented in knitting & sewing laced the rims. I will true the wheels before mounting tires.
 
I may have mentioned earlier in my post that recovering a tattered bike like this one consisted of many small restoration jobs trying to save as many original parts as possible. As we have witnessed,IMG_3354.JPGIMG_3387.JPGIMG_3400.JPG nearly every inch of the bike and every part needed attention. Since both wheels have now been laced and soon to be trued, I've started on the wiring harness. The rectifier, although in rough outer shape is presumed functional. Additionally, the rectifier originally came with tar-based insulation around the sharp edges, the insulation was age crumbled, so I added my own to assure no cuts or scrapes to either internal wiring or skin.
 
I must admit, I draw the line on those, due to the inefficiency of the selenium compared to the modern silicone versions and the degradation that occurs from age and especially heat.
I have a growing collection of them for a large wind chime.
 
That reminds me. I already have one in stock. I'll give it a go, can't hurt. I'm sure the ground tab to the mounting bolt is adequate. I'll be sure to clean all ground points on the frame.IMG_3401.JPGIMG_3402.JPG
 
I don't really trust in the bolt for an adequate ground, so I run an extra ground wire, with eyelet for the bolt, directly to the battery negative. After noticing signs of overheating on the 3 positive wires on those (or even outright fried unit failures) I was clued in to the fact (by others) that a good negative return was essential to a balance of current flow.
For what it's worth, I've gone with those simple units like the one you pictured for awhile but eventually now have a Sparck Moto 6volt rectifier with a voltage sensing black wire, that I tied to the rear brake light switched positive lead for a regulator function as well. I think this is now finally the extra robustness that I've sought from various bulb blowing spikes, battery overstress and such that seem to pop up sometimes on these old bikes, like my 63 Benly.
 
Thanks again! I will give the updated rectifier a go. The frame is still empty so can clean any electrical grounds on the frame. I will consider two aspects of the rectifier that stands out to me. 1.) I agree the ground to bolt on the rectifier might be an issue at some point. I will make the ground more robust. 2.) The positive wire from the rectifier to the wiring harness is a lighter gauge (3.17mm) than the positive wire of the harness (3.92mm) (heat shield stripped away). I will install a heavier wire to the rectifier.

I won't have any updates regarding this rectifier upgrade until the bike gets fired up sometime in October when I can measure voltage.
 
Time stamp 7-23-2024. My 63-engine arrived in good condition today. The idea of shipping the engine in a cooler proved good. The engine is stuck. I actually like the challenge of freeing up the engine. I have a slight advantage to most when it comes to lubrication. I fill the cylinders with Castrol Brayco 589 TurboJet engine preservation and rust protection oil (benefit of being the Chemical Manager of a plant that makes aerospace parts). I freed up a CA160 engine with this product years ago. About a 48 hour cylinder soak is all the engine needed. In addition, I fill the crankcase with used Mobil 1, 5-20 from a recent car oil change. If my techniques fail, I'll tear the engine down, no problem.
 
Well, I kept looking at this engine. Something odd. It's clean, never dissembled, yet so locked up. No movement, not even slop. I decided to tear into it. Before I continue, one might ask "How did you drain all of that oil you just added"? A 250ml syringe. The syringe is good for adding to cylinders through spark plug holes and drawing out oil from the crankcase. Great for changing oil in lawn mowers. Anyway, after partial disassembly it is apparent water has found its way into the crankcase over the years of storage. Rust everywhere. The pistons were lightly stuck,IMG_3418.JPGIMG_3429.JPGIMG_3423.JPGIMG_3416.JPG and the cylinder bore is not worn! Tomorrow, I split the case. Bottom sludge contains sliver grit. So, at this point I suspect mechanical failure on this low mile engine and being that it was in Minnesota, storage temperatures range from 90f & high humidity to -35F. Condensation. I know I lived in Eden Prairie, just outside of Minneapolis. Lots of cleaning ahead! Enjoy pics!
 
If the clutch outer survives, and it might, maybe an upgrade would be a better spend option, for steels and frictions.

CA95 clutch upgrade

My chronic slipping clutch is (hopefully) a thing of the past. A couple of years ago a FB friend from Oz, who's done a lot on these Benly's told me about using the 175 racing clutch parts to beef up these, kind of wimpy clutches. Basically by adding an exra set of friction disc and a steel...
www.vintagehondatwins.com www.vintagehondatwins.com
 
The answer as to why this engine was so locked up is a seized piston rod. Left side. To aggravate the attempt to free up the rod is the pistons are in the down position making piston wrist pin removal nearly impossible. Spent time having fun trying various attempts to free up the seized rod. I tried lubrication, brake cleaner to clean then reapply Brayco oil, WD40 and of course, heat. "All the kings' men" came to mind. So next step is nuclear. Cut the rod at the crankshaft, recover pistons (just in case all I need is crosshatch cylinder hone and new rings) and search eBay for a replacement crankshaft. Transmission gears are all good. The kick start shaft is really rusty and itself is locked up. My thoughts as to why the engine is clean outside, rusty inside with good cylinders? The engine was low on oil (or wrong oil) and seized up. Random timing is why pistons were in the down position when lock up occurred. I can see the rider standing on the kick starter trying to get the engine free. Bike was torn down never to be repaired again, and decades of storage up north with previously mentioned temperature swingsIMG_3440.JPGIMG_3438.JPGIMG_3436.JPG.
 
At least you're over the hump of getting the cylinders removed. I'd try removing the crank with pistons on from the upper case, then press out the wrist pins with a bolt, like a bearing puller. I'd rather sacrifice pistons than a crank assembly (even if it may be a goner). Who knows how seized it is until it's sat in a chelating agent (evaporust, rust911, Deox-C, etc.).
As RoseAnne Roseannadanna says, "It's always something".
 
ballbearian said:
I'd try removing the crank with pistons on from the upper case,
Click to expand...
I sure wish your suggestion were an option. The CA95 pistons cannot be pulled through the upper crankcase. I'm convinced the seized rod is the result of heat & friction and rusting bearings did not help matters. Rust also locked in the piston wrist pins. I had to be careful not to damage the upper case while trying to free up the crankshaft and wrist pins. I tried every trick in the book. After fail after fail, I cut the rod free at the crank and at the piston wrist pins. I'll source another crankshaft as well as new pistons. I planned to replace the old pistons with .25 oversize and then send out the cylinders for boring anyway. I don't mind wasting rusted and pitted parts, especially when the rust is on hardened (heat treated) surfaces. IMG_3439.JPGIMG_3447.JPG
 
Congratulations on all that surgery without any damage to the stuff you wanted. I'm sure that, alone, took some doing.
 
I wanted to share the grinding tool that made this "surgery" possible. Years ago, the plant RMO, Fastenal, gave me a handful of these die grinders. My Foredom flexible shaft die grinder is mounted in my hobby shop at one end of the house and my nasty work is always done in my garage shop at the other end. So, I had to use my Dremel. About 15 minutes at each grind point x five points. Rod at the crank and both sides at the wrist pins. I had an inner communication argument (a nice way of describing arguing with oneself) for most of the day. The breaking point which led me to the brutal resolve to waste both the crank and pistons was the absolute inability to drive out the wrist pins after fighting the battle of removing the circlips and not being able to free the seized rod. IMG_3449.JPG
 
I have a lot of those"inner communication arguments" often out loud especially when it comes something like this or spending money. Sometimes you just have to fish or cut bait as they say.
 
Since my last post I continue to work on the engine. Gears, shafts and bearings surprisingly good. The kick start shaft from the original engine parts was good, but gears were bad and terribly rusted. I found a better kick start assembly and intend to build a good assembly from two bad assemblies. I try to return parts to as near as new as possible.
As previously mentioned, the engine I purchased had internal rust. The lower engine case was really oily. Odd, I thought when seeing this. After cleaning the lower case it appears the oil drain plug seat was damaged. The case also has a strange divot, like something really hit it hard. My take now is the engine had an oil leak, ran low on oil and seized. Four pics. 1.) Box of clean tranny parts to be assembled. 2.) Oily bottom of purchased engine as received. 3.) The engine case from the purchased engine with damage. 4.) Original 1962 bottom engine case to be salvaged and reused with the 1963 upper case, cleaning in process.IMG_3489.JPGIMG_3433.JPGIMG_3490.JPGIMG_3491.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom