The 62 CA95 Basket Case Rescue Log, Start Date June 1st 2024

[Spokes]

Projects. Seems like I always need projects. This project is more like a rescue than a restoration. This will be the 5th CA95, and 11th total Dream rebuilds counting the CA160's and CA72. This project is a basket case 1962 Honda CA95. Found on eBay and only two hours away, my wife, little dog Oliver and I went to pick it up. Being a basket case staged in a scrap yard, we broke down the frame and loaded her into our Kia Soul. Yep! Stuffed her in the car. Plastic bag lined boxes and heavy old comforters, rear windows slightly opened with the air conditioner going (to create positive air pressure. Old lab experience) kept the smell to a minimum.
Going forward I will note the differences and rare parts found on the 62 as compared to the 64 and latter models. It's also unknown as to any modifications to this bike. The engine had a catastrophic failure that laid waste to the upper half. I will seek a 62 engine, If not I can always drop in a later year motor or if I go mad, I can drop in a later 160 engine. Yes, the CA95 and CA160 share the same frame. Only the wiring harness is different. From what I can tell, based on the 1966 Ohio tag, the 62 was sitting in a barn, since 1966, 58 years. However, it was stored dry and the crazy unexpected suprise is the fuel tank is clean and shiny inside. Completely unexpected. More to come.

 

[tomeben]

I continue to be amazed by those of you here who look upon a glorious relic such as this and know, “yep, I can fix that”. Carry on… watching.

 

[EzPete]

Pretty amazing find. I wonder if the bottom end of the engine is still good, could you just swap top ends and keep the Serial number from the 62 engine.

 

[Spokes]

Pretty amazing find. I wonder if the bottom end of the engine is still good, could you just swap top ends and keep the Serial number from the 62 engine.

Yes. Before discarding the broken top end, I plan to cut the original engine serial number. I will keep the old serial number and include it should I sell the finished bike. Maybe make it a key chain?

 

[Spokes]

I continue to be amazed by those of you here who look upon a glorious relic such as this and know, “yep, I can fix that”. Carry on… watching.

It's hard to explain why us elders save old stuff from the heap. Maybe we would like to be saved and restored better than new. Or maybe we are simply like prospecting. The guys I bought the bike from had a scrap yard. Funny, we got along as if we knew each other for years. I asked them: Why do we fix this old stuff? The answer: I don't know, and we all burst out laughing. Could be prospecting as well and applying techniques to bring out the gem from the corrosion. Example below. The handlebars.There
There is some corrosion. Just a little chemistry, light abrasive, stainless steel rouge and a buffing wheel. I will brush plate zinc on the corrosion pits and reuse the handlebars. By the way, one other amazing thing, the bars are straight with the original controls and grips! More to come

 

[ancientdad]

Pretty amazing find. I wonder if the bottom end of the engine is still good, could you just swap top ends and keep the Serial number from the 62 engine.

Yes. Before discarding the broken top end, I plan to cut the original engine serial number. I will keep the old serial number and include it should I sell the finished bike. Maybe make it a key chain?

I think there might be a miscommunication here. EZPete is talking about the top end of the engine, meaning the cylinders and head. It seems you might be thinking he means the upper half of the crankcase, which is where the engine number is stamped. If the internals of the bottom end are serviceable and there is no damage to either half of the crankcase, you should be able to repair the top end of the engine and keep the crankcases with original engine number.

 

[tomeben]

Example below. The handlebars.

Makes my point, to me that’s pure art! I don’t guess the patience is in me past a certain point. Prospecting is a good analogy; finding the gem, knowing you’ve found a gem, and the ability to then recover/restore its brilliance. Thanks for replying… Cheers!

 

[EzPete]

Yeah. I probably should have been more clear - although I know nothing about that engine in particular, if the damage is confined to the cylinders and head, but the rods and crank are still good, heck you might even be able to fit a larger bore.

 

[ancientdad]

Yeah. I probably should have been more clear - although I know nothing about that engine in particular, if the damage is confined to the cylinders and head, but the rods and crank are still good, heck you might even be able to fit a larger bore.

I'm just thinking the OP may not realize the top end can be repaired and there would be no loss of original number.

 

[Spokes]

I'm just thinking the OP may not realize the top end can be repaired and there would be no loss of original number.

Ah! OK. I have not looked closely at the top end, referring to the head/OHV/tachometer assembly. I can tell you that one cylinder is broken at the bottom and one piston has damage. I will get some pictures in for reference, my guess and only conjecture and it may sound wild, but it appears the engine may have been rebuilt and for sone crazy reason one piston rod was not attached to the piston. Kind of slapped together. So, when whoever hit the starter button the free rod tore into the piston bottom, breaking off the lower cylinder and sending the pieces through the upper crankcase. I get some shots uploaded in a few days. The serial number on these engines happens to be on the upper crankcase. The upper crankcase is damaged. Pictures soon!

 

[ancientdad]

Ah! OK. I have not looked closely at the top end, referring to the head/OHV/tachometer assembly. I can tell you that one cylinder is broken at the bottom and one piston has damage. I will get some pictures in for reference, my guess and only conjecture and it may sound wild, but it appears the engine may have been rebuilt and for sone crazy reason one piston rod was not attached to the piston. Kind of slapped together. So, when whoever hit the starter button the free rod tore into the piston bottom, breaking off the lower cylinder and sending the pieces through the upper crankcase. I get some shots uploaded in a few days. The serial number on these engines happens to be on the upper crankcase. The upper crankcase is damaged.

Much better explanation, now clear.

Pictures soon!

We say it every day, pictures are the best way to explain things.

 

[EzPete]

Ah! OK. I have not looked closely at the top end, referring to the head/OHV/tachometer assembly. I can tell you that one cylinder is broken at the bottom and one piston has damage. I will get some pictures in for reference, my guess and only conjecture and it may sound wild, but it appears the engine may have been rebuilt and for sone crazy reason one piston rod was not attached to the piston. Kind of slapped together. So, when whoever hit the starter button the free rod tore into the piston bottom, breaking off the lower cylinder and sending the pieces through the upper crankcase. I get some shots uploaded in a few days. The serial number on these engines happens to be on the upper crankcase. The upper crankcase is damaged. Pictures soon!

Ouch. That can happen if the C Clips aren’t installed properly. Definitely sounds like a total rebuild.

 

[Spokes]

Today I spent most of the day on the front end and tank. I preface my next statement as I always choose the worst of the lot. So, when I say the gas tank is shiny as new inside and the original fuel petcock looks like "new old stock" I can't believe what I see! No horrid smell to boot! Tank bottom perfect. I wonder if this bike and its parts was somehow kept indoors in a heated building? Can't imagine 58 years kept this way. Anyhow, I'm currently breaking down the bike body Sheetmetal /frame/electrical/controls/suspension into project pieces. then as in the past complete each micro project then start the build. Sometime next week I will group the engine parts together and take pictures. I'm 99.9% sure the engine can't be saved. You will see the engine components are not only damaged but rusty as heck. Rusted case-hardened surface parts and bearings can't be trusted. Signing off for the day. Chip aka Spokes

 

[ballbearian]

I'm only on my 3rd Benly project. This will be interesting to me, for sure.

 

[ballbearian]

Cool, you even have the front handpump locking bracket.

 

[RobMan]

Welcome from North Carolina. I will watch with great interest.

 

[Spokes]

Thanks, RobMan!

Part of my build story is to share what I use to bring back surface finish and rogue techniques. One rogue technique is to air out the gas tank. Oddly, the inside of the tank is as shiny as new. The tank is free of fuel "goober" as well. But the tank has "that smell". I need to keep the tank perfect for at least a year while I get the rest of the bike done, so here is a shot of how I'm ventilating the tank. The vent motor is for a greenhouse, the outside has a simple dryer vent flap, and the tubing is flexible dryer hose over the tank opening. The fuel petcock is removed. Under the open petcock hole is a small cut short dixie cup filled with Apple Cinnamon Air Freshener.

 

[ballbearian]

I do like aromatherapy for myself but never considered it for my bikes too.

 

[Spokes]

Pics of rusty rim after 18-hour citric acid soak.

 

[Spokes]

Much better explanation, now clear.

We say it every day, pictures are the best way to explain things.

Engine Autopsy:

As per the pictures below, I base my assumptions on. Low oil, or the lack thereof, wiped out the engine. right side (looking down from the seat) piston rod bearing at the crankshaft is gone. Lower half if the right piston gone. Piston rod snapped off at the piston wrist pin. Free piston rod at the lowest stroke pushed forward instead of up causing the lower cylinder to break free and blow out the upper engine case just above the starter. In addition, the oil pump is frozen, and its push rod is broken off and, oddly both the intake and exhaust valves are stuck open. Engine transmission gears are too rusty to use, and some parts are long gone. The only salvageable engine parts will be the head assembly (needs valve seat cut, new guides, valves and head surface machined and the lower half of the case. More cost effective to buy a used complete engine and rebuild it.

 

[ancientdad]

Yeah, that's pretty ugly.

 

[ballbearian]

Wow, that is truly FUBAR.

Even the studs may be stretched.

I figured you'd have some elegant (cheap-skate) chemistry show and tells.

 

[Spokes]

No fu fu dust for the engine!

 

[Spokes]

Put the headlight, speedometer and ignition back in the headlight bucket. Hot-wired the headlight and speedometer original bulbs. Headlight high & low beam and the speedometer bulbs illuminated! Amazing!

 

[EzPete]

No fu fu dust for the engine!

Have you ever had luck with citric acid on aluminum parts? Every time I’ve hit it with the citric sous vide I get a really dingy almost corroded finish.

 

[GaryJames]

Ah yes, don‘t use any cleaner with citric acid in its constituents on Aluminium or Muzak/muck metal castings.
especially in a ultra sonic cleaner bath.
I did this a while ago on an old Amal 276, remote petrol bowl, and it turned nearly black.
took me ages cleaning it off with some silver polish. Even then there is still a slight sheen of darkness on the surface.
I was using diluted Simple Green at the time……..
now I find that normal dishwashing detergent ( with out citric acid -read the label ) just a few drops works well.
cheers

 

[ballbearian]

Put the headlight, speedometer and ignition back in the headlight bucket. Hot-wired the headlight and speedometer original bulbs. Headlight high & low beam and the speedometer bulbs illuminated! Amazing!

It is amazing how well some things have held up. Looks like an Auto Meter speedo too. Pretty old.

 

[Spokes]

Ah yes, don‘t use any cleaner with citric acid in its constituents on Aluminium or Muzak/muck metal castings.
especially in a ultra sonic cleaner bath.
I did this a while ago on an old Amal 276, remote petrol bowl, and it turned nearly black.
took me ages cleaning it off with some silver polish. Even then there is still a slight sheen of darkness on the surface.
I was using diluted Simple Green at the time……..
now I find that normal dishwashing detergent ( with out citric acid -read the label ) just a few drops works well.
cheers

A couple of aspects to consider when cleaning metals. Soils, oxides and the metal itself. Cleaning soils like petroleum byproducts and road grime are best removed with neutral soaps. I like dish detergent best. Oils from leaks and petroleum from the road (like tar) are best removed by dissolving the oils with light oils (think WD-40) then with neutral soap.

Oxides can be removed with acids or caustics. The secret it short term exposure. Acids and caustics will attack metals if exposed long enough. Cleaning the metal itself is best done with light abrasives. NOTE: NO ACIDS/CAUSTICS and NO ABRASIVES ON POLISHED SURFACES! One will notice most aluminum parts we find on the old dreams are painted. So back to the mild detergent for painted surfaces. Alas, can't bring back the new look of damaged metals, Damage is damage.

Regards,

Chip (aka Spokes)

 

[tomeben]

A couple of aspects to consider when cleaning metals.

This is great info… thanks for posting!
(Sticky cleaning/polishing thread? Or maybe we have one… I should look.)

 

[ballbearian]

The ink stamped dynastic production dates on interior engine parts (side covers, clutch baskets, etc.) will survive oil and gasolene but I'm very careful with any other cleaning products on those.
I'm sure you'll probably find some on your early motor there.
The first number is the year of the last emperor (1925), so add 25 to get our year. Example: 38 would be 1963.

 

[J-T]

Great to see the original lights working, as long as you don't need them to see where you're going of course.

 

[ballbearian]

Great to see the original lights working, as long as you don't need them to see where you're going of course.

Awe, they're not that bad. 25watts is still 25watts. I ride mine at night a lot but keep it under 40mph on country roads with no moon so I don't outrun the beam.
I do have a toasted extra sealed beam so an LED 6volt conversion is planned. John Pardue of FB group "Honda 6volt" sells some killer custom produced LED's.

 

[Spokes]

Awe, they're not that bad. 25watts is still 25watts. I ride mine at night a lot but keep it under 40mph on country roads with no moon so I don't outrun the beam.
I do have a toasted extra sealed beam so an LED 6volt conversion is planned. John Pardue of FB group "Honda 6volt" sells some killer custom produced LED's.

That reminds me. I have removed the sealed glass face of the headlamp and with super caution unsoldered the dead headlight bulb. Yes, you can retrofit an LED light and reseal the glass face back to the headlight body. So, how do you remove the front headlight glass? A hard fiber deburring wheel, normally found in a tool & die shop. The fiber wheel will wear through the edge of the crimped frame around the glass without breaking the lens. Reseal with automotive silicon sealer. Better yet, buy a replacement headlight from Asian supplier with a replaceable bulb. In the end, I found the LED conversion headlight no brighter than the original. I opted not to ride any later than dusk. I feared Deer, texting drivers and other critters.....

 

[ballbearian]

I feared Deer, texting drivers and other critters.....

This always bears repeating, especially around here.

 

[Spokes]

Today I worked on the handlebar controls. Disassembled both sides and cleaned then polished. At this point I'm thinking of bringing the bike back to what she might have looked like had she not been in a barn for 58 years. So, after I cleaned and polished the cases I re-aged the aluminum in my vibratory bowl with a little Lime Away cleaner. About 30 minutes. enjoy before and after shots!

 

[ballbearian]

Wow, those were the worst I've seen. I'm glad they didn't go crazy with clear coat back then.

Excellent work Spokes.

 

[Spokes]

I wanted to share one difference I found between this 1962 CA95 and the 1964 & 1965 model. This one is the taillight. the 1964 & 1965 model has bolt on rear light/license plate combo. The lens was longer and the bulb mounted straight in. The 1962 taillight is spot welded in, bulb mounts at an angle and the taillight lens is shorter.
The taillight bulb illuminates both filaments as well.

 

[ballbearian]

Those short lenses are very hard to find. Yours looks good fortunately. I hadn't seen the angled bulb reflector before. Thanks.

The 3 welded ones I had, required welding the stress fractures to the fender. I then rubber mounted and bolted them also.

 

[Spokes]

Those short lenses are very hard to find. Yours looks good fortunately. I hadn't seen the angled bulb reflector before. Thanks.

The 3 welded ones I had, required welding the stress fractures to the fender. I then rubber mounted and bolted them also.

I have to admit this bike is odd (and I enjoy every minute). The inside of the gas tank is as shiny as new and tight, the original gas petcock is like new (this I don't understand). The lights work, one would think after all this time, bulbs would be bad, the taillight plastic should have been broken (has its original screws to boot) and speaking of screws, all fasteners are easily removed. Even the aluminum handlebar controls came apart easily. The bike has original air pump mounts, and I found the key to match in Asia! I was able to procure the ignition /steering lock key stateside. As far as the taillight, the metal taillight body is much thinner than later models. I need to drill out the spotwelds as the light body is loose against the frame and refasten with appropriate bolts. The engine is toast for sure, but I salvaged some parts along with the cylinder head and bottom engine case. I continue to contemplate about keeping the original paint with its flaws or go full boat new paint. The cool thing about the paint is the original red color is perfect behind the gas tank panel. My local custom paint store can match the color. I'm perplexed why some aspects of the bike are very corroded and yet parts one would expect to be bad (like the gas tank) is perfect, By the way, another interesting thing I failed to mention. The original vinyl battery sleeve is in great shape for 62 years old.

 

[ballbearian]

It is pretty weird. The survival of the taillight especially. BTW, I sandwiched a layer of inner tube rubber under the taillight body. All my Benly and Dream bodies are the same part.
I bought a simple chrome bicycle pump (hose inside style) to shorten and use with a fabbed front mount but haven't got round to it. No way I'd pay for an original which probably doesn't work for beans with that Schraeder head anyways. It would probably take a half hour of mad pumping too.

I've been fortunate buying used motors or cases on ebay. They're out there, just have to be patient for the right one and reasonable shipping (like$50). Over a year ago, I started collecting parts for #3 and bought a pair of cases. The old upper was marginal and needs some fixing, I'll post a pic, maybe you're interested in it just for shipping. You need a crank, unless you know a whizz with a press. Rods were available but not sure about bearings. An entire decent used would be best.
Never had a red but they do fade the worst.
Battery tray must have come with that battery, not listed or shown in parts lists.

 

[Spokes]

I would be curious about the upper marginal engine case. I agree with buying a used crankshaft. I lost all machine shop privileges when I retired then moved away from Georgia. A picture would be great. I appreciate the offer!

Thanks,

Chip (aka Spokes)

 

[ballbearian]

I had pics posted in a project thread of the two damaged areas. You may enjoy the thread.

Charles' Benlys, CA95 x2, early and late

I think I got a case here for a new case. This is the crank bearing locating pin support. There is a big end rod knock on the same side. Then there is the countershaft bearing journal that I can stick an .008- .012" feeler blade into and when you put the case halves together, you can...

www.vintagehondatwins.com

 

[Spokes]

Cool thread indeed! I got a kick out of the paint discussion as I've always done my own painting. Regretfully I must decline the offered engine case. There's much time to shop around. I certainly appreciate the offer.

Best regards

Chip

 

[Spokes]

Today was "Do a Shock Day" Once parts are disassembled and cleaned, should I find nicer components, it will be easier to disassemble them again to fit better parts. Much damage to the chrome, but the internal spring is clean (due to light coating of grease and the dampener is dry (no leaking). Enjoy the before and after pics!

 

[Spokes]

ballbearian said:
"The 3 welded ones I had, required welding the stress fractures to the fender. I then rubber mounted and bolted them also."


I drilled out the spot welds holding on the rear taillight. It looks like I will be welding not only the stress fracture but a patch as well. Another interesting aspect of this bike is the road tar build up under the fender created a barrier and kept the underside near pristine.

The frame is now stripped of wiring and all electrical components, and the next few days will spent be cleaning gunk and grease. I use PB Blaster/WD40/Purple cleaner is to remove tar, grease and road gunk. Basically, dissolving as much tar as possible with an acidic petroleum (PB Blaster) then with a lighter fish oil/petroleum blend (WD40) and water-based degreaser to dissolve the WD40. A wood scraper (homemade) and a brass brush helps break the tar and lots of paper towels used to avoid sloppy runoff. The 58-year-old road tar is tough stuff to remove. Underneath the tar coating is near perfect paint.

 

[ballbearian]

All that tar is a mixed blessing for sure. I just used gas a few times, it was faster to dissolve it.

Familiar fender tailight fractures. The edges of your fenders look great though. I've always had a crack, or oft times, two to patch and straightening which is pretty hard to do. A well inflated loose wheel actually made the best hammering buck.

 

[Spokes]

All that tar is a mixed blessing for sure. I just used gas a few times, it was faster to dissolve it.

Familiar fender tailight fractures. The edges of your fenders look great though. I've always had a crack, or oft times, two to patch and straightening which is pretty hard to do. A well inflated loose wheel actually made the best hammering buck.

If I was in cooler weather maybe gas would be an option. Yes, another odd blessing is the rear fender is straight, so is the front fender less the bottom of the flare. I these bikes might have been picked up by the rear fender, not realizing it's just a stamped part and the front fender was too low for curbs.

 

[Spokes]

The mystery of what survives on these bikes and what does not survive does intrigue me. I'm convinced this bike was sheltered after the engine failure, and the owner just moved on and left the bike in parts and forgot about it. All the light bulbs illuminate. The little rubber boot that holds the neutral bulb is flexible and good, and the 6v bulb lights up as well. I also want to post pictures of the taillight. Notice the body of the taillight differs from those I have found on years 63-65. As previously mentioned, the lens and the bulb are good.

 

[Spokes]

Finally got the frame clean. Next step is welding the taillight void. I've had an internal argument with myself regarding this 62 build, that is make pristine or assemble the bike with all of her "Pantina". Of course, all electrical and mechanical aspects will be restored back to new or better. Enjoy the latest shots of the frame so far.

 

[tomeben]

… that is make pristine or assemble the bike with all of her "Pantina". Of course, all electrical and mechanical aspects will be restored back to new or better.

As much is the beauty of pristine, and seeing a lot of your other builds, I vote for patina.