The 62 CA95 Basket Case Rescue Log, Start Date June 1st 2024

[Spokes]

but the center of the rotor bolt seems to wobble more than I'd expect. Either the bolt is bent or malformed or the advance is not seated against the rotor face on it's indent.

Yes! I thought so as well! The advance is seated tight to the keyway! I watched my video many times before I posted it. I chucked the bolt in my cordless drill and spun it fast. No wobble. The bolt diameter is smaller than the bore of the advance if that means anything. Bent Crankshaft? I mean anything is possible. I may have to pull the side cover off and check clearance between the rotor and stator. Sadly, I don't have another bolt although I would order one before going after the crankshaft.
Wouldn't that be something, a bent crank.

 

[ballbearian]

Check the advancer too.

 

[Spokes]

I was too curious to determine "runout" of the crankshaft. The CA95 manual states 0.0012" I did a quick video of the flywheel and flywheel bolt while idling the engine.
Buying used 60+ year crankshafts is always a gamble. Maybe one crankshaft has an in-spec runout but could have rusted or worn rod bearings, or visa-versa.
My crankshaft appears to have a wobble indeed, is it worth an engine teardown? I don't know. I'm not afraid to tear the engine down as all parts and internals are clean, not like tearing down an old sloppy motor.
Is this wobble the cause of not achieving top RPM? I don't know that answer. I plan to search for reasons why I can't get screaming revs. Absolute last resort, if the cause of achieving high RPM cannot be found, is buying crankshafts, measuring runouts and determining if rod bearing play is within spec. Then teardown and rebuild the engine using the spec'd out crankshaft. If so, the crossroad will be is to give up and admit defeat and part the bike out or keep trying to get it right. Just don't know at this point.

 

[ballbearian]

I was too curious to determine "runout" of the crankshaft. The CA95 manual states 0.0012" I did a quick video of the flywheel and flywheel bolt while idling the engine.
Buying used 60+ year crankshafts is always a gamble. Maybe one crankshaft has an in-spec runout but could have rusted or worn rod bearings, or visa-versa.
My crankshaft appears to have a wobble indeed, is it worth an engine teardown? I don't know. I'm not afraid to tear the engine down as all parts and internals are clean, not like tearing down an old sloppy motor.
Is this wobble the cause of not achieving top RPM? I don't know that answer. I plan to search for reasons why I can't get screaming revs. Absolute last resort, if the cause of achieving high RPM cannot be found, is buying crankshafts, measuring runouts and determining if rod bearing play is within spec. Then teardown and rebuild the engine using the spec'd out crankshaft. If so, the crossroad will be is to give up and admit defeat and part the bike out or keep trying to get it right. Just don't know at this point.

I only brought up the wobble because you said that you've enjoyed the challenge. If you want to continue enjoying the process of improvement, I would find a machine shop with V blocks, dial gauges, possibly a large press and very large brass hammers to true the crank.

I also said you've done a tremendous job here and it's running better than it ever has. There is a large gulf between good enough and perfection (a shore that can never be reached). I wish you could remove terms of "give up" and "admit defeat" form your vocabulary. You brought a dead thing to life, isn't that something? And, it's beautiful.

Whatever you do, you should ride it, enjoy it and continue sharing with others (take it to a show), that's the priceless part.

 

[Spokes]

Thanks, but there have been times during my lifetime defeat had to be accepted because I overlooked a red flag. 1st pic is how I received the crankshaft. Who know how long it was sitting at this angle. (red flag missed) I got it cheap because the seller could not remove the flywheel. I keep an extra rear wheel axle for this very purpose.
So, today I was thinking; What have I done differently with this bike than with the previous bikes?
One last thing stands out. The rectifier as pictured. I'm now looking back at my posts and asking myself; why are some posts claiming progress while later posts coming back to the question of revs? I charge the battery to full every so often and make no note about it. It's just an automatic thing I have done with cars & bikes forever. If after charging the battery to full on the 62, and she runs better, I have to go after the rectifier. This forum has been a great place to keep a public diary about the 62. I enjoy going back and reviewing my early posts and thinking, well that didn't happen.

The wobble in the crankshaft, well I'll still be thinking about it. Thanks for your observations and comments.

 

[Spokes]

No issue with the solid-state rectifier. After so many electric starts and short rides with lights on, I figured the battery should be low. The battery went to full charge after a short time.
Recommended points gap is .014-.016. Figuring that I have a wobble in the crankshaft, I set the points at .011. This closer setting works best. I will replace the older style points plate once it's delivered, just out of nagging curiosity. Regardless of the outcome, the bike is ready to go.
I'm at a crossroad and need to make a decision to put the bike on Bring a Trailer or continue to tinker with it. If I put the bike out to the public, I will post a link so all can follow.

 

[2BrokeBikes]

I found this thread a couple of weeks ago and have enjoyed reading through the entire thing. Thanks for sharing the journey, Chip!

It takes a lot of dedication, patience, and a whole lot of love for these old bikes to stick with a project the way you have. It's almost a philosophical undertaking! The results are stellar already, even with the lingering gremlins. What a transformation!

Whether you pass it on to someone else to continue working on or keep at it, I've really enjoyed watching you work. In that regard, truly a success.

 

[Spokes]

Many thanks for such a fine compliment. It has been a pleasure to be part of this forum. The little 62 and the bikes I have built are actually time machines, philosophically speaking. I have all of the 60's music at hand. There is always some 60's tune in the background while working on my bikes and since I'm plagued with a deep memory, I can revisit those times. Glad to have y'all with me.

 

[Spokes]

Finally high revs and throttle up to nearly max RPMS. At this point slight miss at full revs may not be an issue. Winding out a fresh motor may not be a good idea anyway.
At the risk of earth tremor response I may get (humor) regarding the last moves I made to make the engine scream I made the following changes. Yes, all at once.
1.) I reinstalled the original rectifier. I bought the solid-state rectifier several years ago and just did not trust it. Maybe it is just me. I don't know. What I do know is I have robust spark, bright headlight and taillight. We will wait & see about battery drain. I've read several reports about the perils of the selenium rectifier. Of the many Hondas I've had the pleasure to build, never once did I have a problem with the old original rectifiers. Thus, is why I reinstalled the original one.
2.) I installed the later year points plate and kept the points setting at .011. I'm not sure it made a difference, but again it made me happy to do so.
3.) I failed to mention the slop in the after-market throttle cable. I installed a cable spacer as shown in pic
4.) I pulled the headlight to check the bucket and connections. Black wire with red strip rubbed and exposed bare core, The cross member in the bucket is razor sharp. Repaired wire and placed split tygon tube over the sharp cross member.
5.) Main jet needle moved to 2nd to bottom setting.

I'm not going to worry about the crankshaft wobble. Manual spec allows .012 if I read it correctly. The current crankshaft main rod needle bearings are sound as well as the inner & outer bearings. Gambling on another used crankshaft and the cost of time & money is not worth the trouble. The replacement may be in worst shape internally then the one currently in use.

Oh yes, the tires. I have not attempted to reseat the tire bead. Seems like the bead is set better by the road trials and the weirdness is pretty much gone.
I may, IF I keep the bike put better tires on her. Wide whitewalls from Coker have always been my favorite fantasy tires for the 62.

I plan to fiddle a bit more with the bike before making final decision as to keeping or letting it go. I'm now thinking about finesse accessories.
Thanks again to all for following my journey!

 

[ancientdad]

before making final decision as to keeping or letting it go.

I got the impression you'd already made the decision based on your request for a sticker, to be displayed when the bike went on BaT.

 

[Spokes]

I got the impression you'd already made the decision based on your request for a sticker, to be displayed when the bike went on BaT.

Eventually it will be let go. Your sticker will be on the bike as promised. I'm postponing (just a short time) selling to make sure the bike runs as close to perfect as possible.
The replacement tire purchase possibility is another finesse option. The better the bike, the better the finesse, the likeliness of a better price. Promise of listing on BaT stands.

 

[ballbearian]

We will wait & see about battery drain. I've read several reports about the perils of the selenium rectifier. Of the many Hondas I've had the pleasure to build, never once did I have a problem with the old original rectifiers. Thus, is why I reinstalled the original one.

I ran my original for a season and few hundred miles before it finally croaked and drained battery. Then went with the small bridge rectifier which also died after a season. Finally had to get creative and relocate the new Sparcks unit. So far the Sparcks is working great but it required some small mods to put it under a side cover and not up inside the body cavity.

I plan to fiddle a bit more with the bike before making final decision as to keeping or letting it go. I'm now thinking about finesse accessories.
Thanks again to all for following my journey!

I'm both glad and sad, as these projects near completion. I really enjoy riding them and showing them off in public as well.
I've really enjoyed following your build here and swapping knowledge and experience, as well as some parts.

They really are never completely done.

 

[Spokes]

They really are never completely done.

True. I have one more experiment to try. My aftermarket "mufflers" are not mufflers. Simple straight through pipes with a "muffler looking bulge".
Years ago, I was taught that a certain amount exhaust back pressure played a role in good performance of an engine.
I found premade motorcycle exhaust baffles on Amazon that fit the 35mm opening of my exhaust pipes. My last experiment is: Will a bit of exhaust back pressure make a difference? And/or Will baffles mellow out the tone to a cool rumble rather than loud trumpet?
I should know soon when the baffles arrive. $18.01 for two from Amazon.

 

[oldjeep]

True. I have one more experiment to try. My aftermarket "mufflers" are not mufflers. Simple straight through pipes with a "muffler looking bulge".
Years ago, I was taught that a certain amount exhaust back pressure played a role in good performance of an engine.
I found premade motorcycle exhaust baffles on Amazon that fit the 35mm opening of my exhaust pipes. My last experiment is: Will a bit of exhaust back pressure make a difference? And/or Will baffles mellow out the tone to a cool rumble rather than loud trumpet?
I should know soon when the baffles arrive. $18.01 for two from Amazon.

As a redneck, I might have shoved some steel wool in there. But I will be looking back through this thread when it comes time to make mine whole, as I will need to buy some aftermarket pipes/mufflers for mine.

As for the battery - even with the Shorai, this one will have some sort of a disconnect since it will not be a frequent use bike.

 

[Spokes]

Great, but just for thought I've done some work with the CA95 mufflers. Picture 1 is a CA95 I built back in 08-09. I fabricated straight pipes. 1-1/2 conduit, polished. I had the pipe bent to a 90 degree and cut straight across the 90 to get the turned down look. Mounts were made by welding rear foot peg mounts to the pipe in line with kickstand double end bolt. Early in my 62 project I thought of building straight pipes again. I bought two absolutely wasted mufflers and harvested the mounts. The mounts remain in my parts drawer.
Picture 2 is a bike I built around 2012. The mufflers with the tapered end were actually mufflers. I had to use original exhaust pipes as the pipes Asia supplied were not hydroformed and showed a bend alongside with a crappy fit.
Picture 3 is my current project as discussed in my thread. These pipes, as previously mentioned are straight through pipes with no baffle. Never my first choice again, I had to modify mounts, and the chrome is as brittle as a chocolate dipped Dairy Queen ice cream cone.
Picture 4 is my Army bike build. I found sound original later mufflers, but the chrome was damaged. Sandblasted and painted with heat resistant paint.
There are plenty of original older mid to late 60's CA95 mufflers available on eBay, although the mufflers may need some attention.
Flat side mufflers for the 1959-1963 CA95 model years are rare.

 

[ballbearian]

True. I have one more experiment to try. My aftermarket "mufflers" are not mufflers. Simple straight through pipes with a "muffler looking bulge".
Years ago, I was taught that a certain amount exhaust back pressure played a role in good performance of an engine.
I found premade motorcycle exhaust baffles on Amazon that fit the 35mm opening of my exhaust pipes. My last experiment is: Will a bit of exhaust back pressure make a difference? And/or Will baffles mellow out the tone to a cool rumble rather than loud trumpet?
I should know soon when the baffles arrive. $18.01 for two from Amazon.

I've heard they don't do much by themselves, but would be good to hold a couple of doughnuts of stainless potscrubbers.

 

[Spokes]

I've heard they don't do much by themselves

True. Here is the vid.

Pics as shown.

 

[Spokes]

Got my crash bars installed. Thanks Tom! I polished out the bars on my buffing wheel and chrome polish. Here is a couple of pics. One pic is how the bars mount to the foot peg mounts, over the pegs thus giving extra support.

 

[ballbearian]

That's great! Glad I was wrong about bolting to the case studs.

 

[Spokes]

Glad I was wrong about bolting to the case studs.

But you were dead on about the selenium rectifier. My battery drained faster than a sink hole in a bathtub.
I need to order one like yours before I let go of the bike.

 

[ballbearian]

But you were dead on about the selenium rectifier. My battery drained faster than a sink hole in a bathtub.
I need to order one like yours before I let go of the bike.

Plenty of room on the left tool tray side, and cooler. I've fried a few of those little square ones, so Sparcks for me.

https://imgur.com/iQ1ltB2

 

[Spokes]

Ordered. I am showing the bike tomorrow at a local car & bike show about 4 miles from my home.
I plan to charge the battery full (while disconnected from harness) and reconnect the battery just before departing. The bike kick started fast with the low battery but the electric starter just gave a grunt. My chase car is a 73 VW microbus service van, so if I get into trouble I can get home.
My VHT sticker is attached as promised and will show big as day. In addition, I'm writing a story about the 62 to be laminated and left on the seat.
VHT will be referred to with a written path to read about "The 62 CA95 Basket Case Rescue log, Start Date June 1st 2024"
I would print a QR code but I'm not that savvy. Correction. QR code generated so those interested in the 62's journey with all of the ups & downs along with VHT support can read about it.

​

 

[RobMan]

Please post some pictures of your bike and others from the show,

 

[ballbearian]

Have a great time.

 

[Spokes]

Back from the local car show along with a few bikes. The 62 drew older folks, but surprisingly just as many younger folks as well. A nice young man wanted a pic on the bike from his friends, I got one as well. Just a nice time with pictures to show.

The really crappy news is the bike runs BAD. This was the first time out on the road, besides the neighborhood. Can't get to 35mph (thank God I had a chase car).
Here's the thing. The bike starts lightning fast. Idles smooth with deep tone. 1/4 throttle up OK in all gears. Can't get the revs, can't keep speed going up incline.
I left the show with dignity; on the road I was a jerking jalopy. I have not solved the poor engine performance. I now, once again plan to retrofit a modern carb. If the carb retrofit fails to provide the performance I'm looking for, I will deep dive and tear down the engine. Something is absolutely wrong.
In the meantime, enjoy the pics!

 

[ballbearian]

Well done, Chip.
The red seat and chrome does make it stand out nice. Great pics.
At least it rode to and from, that is an accomplishment.
I like your text copy page and the before pic. Maybe it planted the seed for some future restorer to take the plunge. I bet for every 50 creampuff polishers there is only one rust rodeo cowboy restorer.
Since they are never really done, who knows how many sequels will be for "basket-case-rescue-log".
Ride on brother, and spread the love.

 

[Spokes]

Thanks Tom. In order to ride on, I'm driven by an internal force called curiosity. As my long-departed mom always said: Curiosity killed the cat. Satisfaction brought it back.
There are four variables need to be addressed.
Carburation
Rectifier
Stator
Crankshaft.

I've ordered a new carburetor. I've figured out how to install a modern carburetor to this bike. This step should be done by mid next week.
Rectifier is on to order delivery Monday.

By late next week two of the four variables will be eliminated.
next:

I will be in the market for a stator. I'm using the original stator that came with the bike while in parts.
If all variables do nothing to improve performance, then:

Engine gets torn down and a good crankshaft installed.

I can't let go of a bike that's not tip top and safe. This bike in the hands of a novice would be lethal. I would gladly throw the bike off a cliff than to risk a life.
I'm driven by frustration fueled by curiosity.

The beat goes on.

 

[oldjeep]

I can't let go of a bike that's not tip top and safe. This bike in the hands of a novice would be lethal. I would gladly throw the bike off a cliff than to risk a life.
I'm driven by frustration fueled by curiosity.

The beat goes on.

That is a good policy. I rebuild mostly crashed/non-op sport bikes and potential buyers ask why I replace/rebuild every part of the braking/driveline system and then beat the crap out of the bikes for at least a few hundred miles. Need to feel good about turning them over to someone unprepared for the glitches that it might have otherwise.

 

[Spokes]

A couple of entries today. As I prepare to install my new rectifier, I drained the gas tank to remove it. I have drained the tank several times while chasing my tail trying to figure out this poor engine performance puzzle. I have overlooked gas flow from the aftermarket petcock. I did a video (attached). I think one more puzzle piece found. Maybe this helps explain why the bike idles so nice, but when you call for throttle, nothings there over 1/4 turn. I may as well look into a better petcock; the adapter is good.
Attached is my concept idea for a new carb. The carb and the cut CB160 manifold get sent to a machinist friend to turn the manifold to the diameter of the intake of the new carb. I've been pondering the carb upgrade idea for some time. I should have the carb back late next week.

 

[oldjeep]

FWIW, that style generic petcock flows enough for a 4 carb 600 or 750 engine. Take the gas cap off

 

[Spokes]

Right. The gas cap is off. I plan to pull the petcock and have a look.

 

[ballbearian]

FWIW, that style generic petcock flows enough for a 4 carb 600 or 750 engine. Take the gas cap off

Yep, unless partial plugged with sediment.

I use compressed air in the tiny 1mm breather hole in the caps to blow them apart. After doing 4 or 5 of them now, all had significant debris inside. All were derusted and a thin smear of silicone grease on the inner diaphragm and they were good. Fortunately, the Benlys and Dreams use the larger size cap, that are available as aftermarket, unlike the smaller caps on the 160s and C200.

 

[Spokes]

While coming back from the show and yesterday’s tank draining I loosened the gas cap. I think a new cap is in order just to eliminate that little variable.
Another old part thrown in the purgatory parts drawer. Thanks for the response!

 

[ballbearian]

While coming back from the show and yesterday’s tank draining I loosened the gas cap. I think a new cap is in order just to eliminate that little variable.
Another old part thrown in the purgatory parts drawer. Thanks for the response!

I think Kevin/Scrambler Cycle has them and at a great price.

 

[Spokes]

Thanks. I have a new cap on the way. While the tank is dry, I intend to pull the fuel petcock for inspection, just to put my mind to rest about fuel flow. I really goofed up when I received my new rectifier. I opener the package with scissors and cut right through the ground wire about an inch from the base. The rectifier looks nearly identical (heat sink and wire harness) to the sparkomatic unit at 1/2 the price. I ordered another, not that I can't repair the wire, it's just pride, I guess.
Another part for the parts drawer.
My new carburetor and CB160 cut manifold have been sent to my machinist friend and I should have it back next week sometime. I will report out pictures and results at that time.
Finally, I have ordered another crankshaft. I've just about exhausted every possibility of engine poor performance.
The crankshaft will be checked for true and rod lateral movement against the Honda manual spec. before I consider teardown and installation.
Note to reader: I'm retired and have time to ponder and tinker. Such is an additional reason to keep trying to figure out why I can't get this scoot to do more than idle, cruise slowly and look cool.

 

[Spokes]

Wouldn't that be something, a bent crank.

Confirming pic and video of the bent crankshaft. All of the work trying to get the 62 to run right to this point was not wasted but never corrected the poor performance issue. Included in this post is a picture of the bent crankshaft I purchased earlier in my project. Lord knows how long the crankshaft sat with the heavy flywheel attached and propped by the flywheel housing. I never thought to measure crankshaft runout. The one fatal mistake of putting an engine together from used parts without measuring runout and the like. As I videoed the dial gauge, I realized that I did not need a gauge to tell me the shaft is bent, .023 out of round. Another crankshaft procured. The replacement crankshaft runout is less than .001. Pic one is the crankshaft as I bought it last year, that turned out to be bent. Pic two is the readout. Pic 3 is a video.

Oh, BTW. Once I replace the crankshaft a nagging mysterious oil leak will cease as well. No way could a crankshaft seal a bent shaft.

 

[ballbearian]

I guess bent crank oil seals aren't good hula-hoops.

 

[ancientdad]

I guess bent crank oil seals aren't good hula-hoops.

Maybe for the Geico gecko.

 

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 9 23 25. Engine off and back on the bench. Replacement crankshaft in house. Honda Bond on order. Waiting on orders for a few gaskets and seals as well.
No apparent damage seen so far from the bent crankshaft.

 

[ballbearian]

Curious how the crank got bent. I'd think most likely being dropped in shipping or handling. After all, they true them with a big hammer.
A good practice if buying a used one would be to give it a spin in the case, before assuming it's good.

 

[Spokes]

Curious how the crank got bent

The attached pic shows the bent crankshaft as I bought it off eBay. I bought the crankshaft cheap because the seller could not remove the flywheel. So, my theory is that the attempt to remove the flywheel before selling it was harsh and/or handling of the crankshaft in storage or shipping. Gotta take my theories with a grain of salt as I have been off base the entire time trying to figure out the poor performance of this engine.

A good practice if buying a used one would be to give it a spin in the case, before assuming it's good.

Ahh! That the caveat! The "bent" crankshaft, when mounted and supported by the outer bearings reads .004" out. (spec is .0012". Spinning the bent crankshaft on the V blocks appears ok to the eye. Another missed red flag was the tight pistons in the cylinder even after reboring. Removing the cylinder head this time around was a bear to get off.
My replacement crankshaft measures zero out while supported on outer bearings on V blocks.

The 62 has been a tough project due to this crankshaft issue. Thanks for hanging in there with me. The bent crankshaft goes to recycle.

 

[Yakeye]

The attached pic shows the bent crankshaft as I bought it off eBay. I bought the crankshaft cheap because the seller could not remove the flywheel. So, my theory is that the attempt to remove the flywheel before selling it was harsh and/or handling of the crankshaft in storage or shipping. Gotta take my theories with a grain of salt as I have been off base the entire time trying to figure out the poor performance of this engine.

Ahh! That the caveat! The "bent" crankshaft, when mounted and supported by the outer bearings reads .004" out. (spec is .0012". Spinning the bent crankshaft on the V blocks appears ok to the eye. Another missed red flag was the tight pistons in the cylinder even after reboring. Removing the cylinder head this time around was a bear to get off.
My replacement crankshaft measures zero out while supported on outer bearings on V blocks.

The 62 has been a tough project due to this crankshaft issue. Thanks for hanging in there with me. The bent crankshaft goes to recycle.

As far as hanging in with you…it’s been quite the story. It has truly been a learning experience for us all. Lots of valuable lessons. Thank You for sharing and documenting it all. Makes this “Twin Community “ so valuable.

 

[ballbearian]

I'd love to have your bent one to salvage the rods and maybe some bearing parts to refurb the worn but straight crank I have here.

 

[Spokes]

I'd love to have your bent one to salvage the rods and maybe some bearing parts to refurb the worn but straight crank I have here.

it is yours! I will send the crankshaft out after the 5th of October.
This log update is about the bottom half of the engine that's been haunting me.
The lower half of the engine came with the bike (shown in pics amongst other parts). I choose to use it in spite of damage to the casting where the sprocket shaft exits the case and the seal contact surface. I figured I could schlep it with sealer to make it seal. This decision bit me in the back side as this one location that chronically leaked oil.

Therefore, I have gambled on a purchase of a 1963 whole engine case. I would use the complete engine case, but the current engine number is on my clean modern title that took months to move through the "system". Amending a vehicle title in Kentucky is not worth the trouble, time and expense. So, only the bottom engine case will be used. At least the engine cases will have been produced in the same year.

Once the engine is up and going the unused 1963 upper and the 1962 lower with the goobered up sprocket seal surface maybe added the Ballbearian pile.

 

[Spokes]

Just an update log entry. As previously mentioned, I have an idea to retrofit a modern carburetor on the 62. Before I left Georgia in 2021, I sold my machine shop equipment to an engineering friend who fell over backwards to find that I had a Walker-Turner Drill Press and a South Bend 9 lathe and tooling to go with it. Finding this type of equipment in a small town in SE Georgia is unheard of. A forever friend made, and a bit of my personal legacy will live on.
So, he sent me a picture of the CB160 manifold stub setup before turning to spec. The objective is press fit the machined CB160 stub into the bore of the new carburetor.
To secure the matting of both the manifold and Carburetor bore I may use a fuel resistant epoxy and/or a small stub rubber boot. My idea is finesse and moving forward with novel concepts is tricky. I will get my machined manifold and carburetor back next week, The 62 engine with the good crankshaft should be ready to go back into the frame late next week. I will reinstall the existing carburetor 1st just to prove the crankshaft was main issue with the poor performance of the engine. Then on goes the new carburetor.
Pics attached.

 

[Spokes]

Log update 9 29 25 Fortunately, no piston, head or cylinder damage. I read about polished dome pistons being less prone to carbon build up. For what it's worth I polished the piston domes. Cylinders have been slightly honed to generate cross hatch pattern again and new rings to be installed just to be safe.

The pistons were phosphated when I bought them. Although phosphating is a good thing, it made for a struggle to get the wrist pins both in and out. The phosphate coating has been removed and the wrist pins fit as they should.

All needed parts should arrive this week to reassemble the engine. I have sky high hopes all of my rework results are positive.

 

[Spokes]

My 1963 empty engine case came in today and I spent much of the afternoon removing road tar and grime from the lower case. Inside the engine case is shiny clean.
As previously mentioned, my current engine number is listed on my vehicle title. I can't justify amending the title to a new engine number, although the inside of the upper is like new. I feel better about replacing the bottom end in hopes of reducing oil drips due to beat up oil seal surfaces. The sum between my current engine number and the acquired engine case is 4836 units' difference.
More cleaning of mating surfaces in the morning then gear clusters and crankshaft.

 

[Spokes]

I wanted to update my modern carburetor/CB160 manifold progress. Attached is a pic from my engineer/machinist friend. The CB manifold fit to the carburetor after machining.
The manifold will be machined down to the flange. Actual length of the manifold will be determined once I get the part & carb back. I should have the part back in 10 days or so.

 

[Spokes]

Ok, so I get all parts cleaned and ready to partially reassemble the engine. NOT! I learned of yet another unexpected finding! Recent posts about the poor engine performance I mentioned the crankshaft runout, while still mounted on the bike before teardown, was .023" yet when I measured the crankshaft on V blocks it was out .004".
Somethings fishy. I figured it was me. The crankshaft I procured first time around (AKA the bent crankshaft) came with Koyo Bearing N304SHSR on the left side (cam side) is 52mm diameter, so I figured to transfer the rollers and race to the replacement crankshaft. Bingo! Another wakeup call! Left & right crankshaft bearings are not the same diameter!
My engine case takes a 57mm wide bearing on the cam side. I schlepped in the crankshaft without thinking about it, just line up the pins and away you go, so I thought.
I'm researching part #91012-202-020 as being the 57mm larger bearing. Now I'm in the market for the #91012-202-020. Those who list said part number are asked to measure the diameter of the listed bearing, before I buy, just to make sure.

So, the crankshaft was out .004" and with a 52mm diameter right bearing in a 57mm opening must have provided more wiggle. I have learned more intimate details about the CA95 engine with this project than any other project bike in the past and of course, I have never been this old either.

 

[Spokes]

At the risk of sounding daft about crankshaft bearings I want to enter into my log what I know (or mystified by) and what I find confusing.

Consulting parts book for the CA95 and confirmation from member Ballbearian, who's advice I seek and trust, I find the following.
My recent pdf parts list:
#12- 91001-205-000 Bearing 6304SHS-Cam Side
#12-91012-202-010 Bearing N304SHS-Cam Side
#11-91001-202-000 Bearing N304SHS-Clutch Side
No listing that I can find for #91001-202-020
Attached is a pic of my engine prior to disassembly. Bearing N304SHS installed. Notice the gap between the bearing housing and the case.
I locate part# 91001-202-020 for the CA95, new old stock, original box and oil paper wrap. Seller indicated 56ish mm diameter. Thus, I gambled on this part number. But this bearing also sports N-304 SHS ID.
I should take delivery on my order for 91001-202-020 bearing by Saturday and will report out fitment. I would find it quite odd to have N304SHS type number in two sizes.