CB450DX
Veteran Member
Just wanted to say, thank you for this thread. I learned a LOT of stuff, mechanical and cultural. Loved every single story as well.
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AD
A 1975 CB400F high mileage complete engine rebuild
- Thread starter jensen
- Start date
kbongos
Veteran Member
Hi Jensen, So I asked my teammate I shoot pool with, how many miles did you put on your bike this year. He estimates over 15K miles. He just likes to ride. Has a Y2022 BMW twin 1200 RT, I believe he bought new He is not into fixing bikes. I took a wild guess at cost at, 15K, he says more like 25K. Wow, I guess costs have gone up. We get into discussion of how things have gone up in price, like cars, like 40K, trucks maybe twice that. I wouldn't know because I drive old things and fix them. It's like a third job for me, and hey, I guess I'm earning some good bucks if that is the costs these days.
It's neat that you can enjoy your long commute and get some company money for a regular commute. That's not common here in US, you do get it if traveling to job sites or specific company travel. It is impressive you have gotten so well at maintaining these old bikes to feel comfortable putting the miles on that you do.
And it is neat that you were into photography long ago. I wish I had more pictures from back then. Back when you had to buy film, expensive cameras, and pay for development. Now it is just too easy. Fortunately my mother was somewhat of a shutter bug(into pictures). Since I work with computers I digitized a lot of her and my old pictures. Used a scanner that worked out fairly well. I also digitized all my music - albums, tapes - I'm quite content with the quality of MP3 and have no desire to own crates of old records. My mom also like to paint some, and I digitized her paintings after she passed. I used an inexpensive digital camera, took the pictures outside and arranged in various natural light.
A pic of my mom and grand father with his fancy model T:
One of the two pics I have of my bike from way back in my teens, would have been around 1982:
Here is a paint job I did on my brothers friends Harley. He was the one that got us into motorbikes, had a 2 cycle dirt bike we would ride up in the abandoned orchard.
So when I got out of 4 year college, I sold my MG for $500 bucks and moved from WI to MN on the motor bike. I had to get a car soon with winters here, and the bike didn't have a garage, was probably getting in tough shape, at some point I gave or sold it to a junk yard or dealer.
The one pic of my old MG. Notice the fiberglass hard top I made to deal with the ripped up rag top and WI winters. It was not a good winter car.
It's neat that you can enjoy your long commute and get some company money for a regular commute. That's not common here in US, you do get it if traveling to job sites or specific company travel. It is impressive you have gotten so well at maintaining these old bikes to feel comfortable putting the miles on that you do.
And it is neat that you were into photography long ago. I wish I had more pictures from back then. Back when you had to buy film, expensive cameras, and pay for development. Now it is just too easy. Fortunately my mother was somewhat of a shutter bug(into pictures). Since I work with computers I digitized a lot of her and my old pictures. Used a scanner that worked out fairly well. I also digitized all my music - albums, tapes - I'm quite content with the quality of MP3 and have no desire to own crates of old records. My mom also like to paint some, and I digitized her paintings after she passed. I used an inexpensive digital camera, took the pictures outside and arranged in various natural light.
A pic of my mom and grand father with his fancy model T:
One of the two pics I have of my bike from way back in my teens, would have been around 1982:
Here is a paint job I did on my brothers friends Harley. He was the one that got us into motorbikes, had a 2 cycle dirt bike we would ride up in the abandoned orchard.
So when I got out of 4 year college, I sold my MG for $500 bucks and moved from WI to MN on the motor bike. I had to get a car soon with winters here, and the bike didn't have a garage, was probably getting in tough shape, at some point I gave or sold it to a junk yard or dealer.
The one pic of my old MG. Notice the fiberglass hard top I made to deal with the ripped up rag top and WI winters. It was not a good winter car.
jensen
Veteran Member
Nice story's !
Yes, a new BMW 2022 is costing more than my "fleet" of 450's, one of the reasons for me to ride and maintain these old bikes. Normally, with any vehicle like a motorbike, car or truck you have to pay road tax, but when your vehicle was on the road for 40 years, you don't have to pay road tax anymore. I only have one bike with road tax, and that's my Kawasaki KRS-1, the only "modern" bike I possess.
So, I ride my classic bike to work, I don't pay road taxes, and get travel expenses reimbursement per km commuter distance. The downside is that I have to pay more insurance, because I use the bike (old-timer) for commuting, and since the costs are pretty high, only two bikes are insured that way, my CB450 K0 and the bike of this thread, the CB400F.
Nice painting on the CB500F (?), always nice to see pictures of that era, because, like you said, at that time taking pictures costs money. The picture of the T-ford, with your mother as a child, and your proud grandfather is priceless !
I started making picture when it was affordable, and I remember how I got my first camera. Every year, a camera shop had a stunt day, selling 10 items for 1 guilder (before the Euro). The first person in the shop on Tuesday morning, at opening time, being 8.30 AM, could buy a camera for just 1 guilder (comparable with 1 USD). I remember that I sat before the shop doors, on Sunday evening, spending the two nights, in the middle of winter, waiting for the grand opening. As I was the first person in line on Tuesday morning, I got myself a camera, being a Nikon FM with a standard 50/1.4 mm lens.
Later I bought a very well-used Nikon F3 body from a reporter, for my trip to Ceylon. I also kept that camera, and still using it.
I always kept it, and still using it sometimes:
Later I bought a very well-used Nikon F3 body from a reporter, for my trip to Ceylon. I also kept that camera, and still using it.
And after four rainy days, the sun showed up again:
You can see the last rain droplets falling into the puddle of water.
Yes, a new BMW 2022 is costing more than my "fleet" of 450's, one of the reasons for me to ride and maintain these old bikes. Normally, with any vehicle like a motorbike, car or truck you have to pay road tax, but when your vehicle was on the road for 40 years, you don't have to pay road tax anymore. I only have one bike with road tax, and that's my Kawasaki KRS-1, the only "modern" bike I possess.
So, I ride my classic bike to work, I don't pay road taxes, and get travel expenses reimbursement per km commuter distance. The downside is that I have to pay more insurance, because I use the bike (old-timer) for commuting, and since the costs are pretty high, only two bikes are insured that way, my CB450 K0 and the bike of this thread, the CB400F.
Nice painting on the CB500F (?), always nice to see pictures of that era, because, like you said, at that time taking pictures costs money. The picture of the T-ford, with your mother as a child, and your proud grandfather is priceless !
I started making picture when it was affordable, and I remember how I got my first camera. Every year, a camera shop had a stunt day, selling 10 items for 1 guilder (before the Euro). The first person in the shop on Tuesday morning, at opening time, being 8.30 AM, could buy a camera for just 1 guilder (comparable with 1 USD). I remember that I sat before the shop doors, on Sunday evening, spending the two nights, in the middle of winter, waiting for the grand opening. As I was the first person in line on Tuesday morning, I got myself a camera, being a Nikon FM with a standard 50/1.4 mm lens.
Later I bought a very well-used Nikon F3 body from a reporter, for my trip to Ceylon. I also kept that camera, and still using it.
I always kept it, and still using it sometimes:
Later I bought a very well-used Nikon F3 body from a reporter, for my trip to Ceylon. I also kept that camera, and still using it.
And after four rainy days, the sun showed up again:
You can see the last rain droplets falling into the puddle of water.
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Awesome picture of your grandfather and mother with that Model T, it's great to have snippets of the past like that, especially when it's of family. And both those bike paint jobs look really cool, did you do both of them?
kbongos
Veteran Member
Hi Jensen, wow 2 nights camped out in front of store for that camera! And that Kawasaki KRS-1 is not that new or modern, those I read are screaming light weight 2 cycle machines. Insurance costs here for bikes are extremely reasonable, mine cost $100 a year for a bike. I believe MN has some classic license plates that can avoid some costs, for regular ones I pay about $40 for a yearly sticker.
Interesting picture of the rural building, it's very unusual, the roof in particular.
Thanks for speculating on my old CB500 model or vintage, I have no idea what year it was(1970 is my guess) as I didn't pay much attention to that sort of thing at that age. Hanging out on this forum I have taken more of an interest in the years, variation and changes. Bought it second hand and it obviously had some modifications that it came with. Longer forks and handle bars I believe. It may have been a fixed up from an accident, I recall a good sized gash in the front frame after owning it a while. I wasn't good at maintenance, fixing what broke when I had to - points, shift cables, change oil probably not as often as I should have, re-using the oil filter because it was chrome and I didn't want to buy one. I might have replaced the mufflers I recall them getting loud. Had a rear flat tire at some point - I don't even recall how I got that fixed or replaced, I was out on a highway, with a passenger I recall, but I don't recall how I dealt with the flat. It was on a straight stretch fortunately, so I just recall a scary wobble when it went.
Interesting picture of the rural building, it's very unusual, the roof in particular.
Thanks for speculating on my old CB500 model or vintage, I have no idea what year it was(1970 is my guess) as I didn't pay much attention to that sort of thing at that age. Hanging out on this forum I have taken more of an interest in the years, variation and changes. Bought it second hand and it obviously had some modifications that it came with. Longer forks and handle bars I believe. It may have been a fixed up from an accident, I recall a good sized gash in the front frame after owning it a while. I wasn't good at maintenance, fixing what broke when I had to - points, shift cables, change oil probably not as often as I should have, re-using the oil filter because it was chrome and I didn't want to buy one. I might have replaced the mufflers I recall them getting loud. Had a rear flat tire at some point - I don't even recall how I got that fixed or replaced, I was out on a highway, with a passenger I recall, but I don't recall how I dealt with the flat. It was on a straight stretch fortunately, so I just recall a scary wobble when it went.
Hi AD, yes both tank covers art I did. They are artwork from album covers. Done with probably acrylic brush paint and lacquer clear coat, and small air brush. I did a few vehicle murals at that age as well.
I've always been envious of those who could get what they see to their hand and on paper (or other medium) with some level of accuracy. I've always been able to envision things in my head, but I can't get them to look anything like what I can see with my eyes or in my mind. Unless it's bits and pieces that can be assembled into something larger and tangible, that's what I've been better at. My wife's youngest son could easily be a commercial artist, he's drawn some amazing stuff. He did a charcoal freehand of my Mom and Dad's wedding day picture for one of their anniversaries and it's pretty amazing for an amateur with no formal training.
And now, we should get back to Jensen's CB400F, or his photography, or whatever he has in mind for the next part. 
jensen
Veteran Member
Front fork seals, and home to remove them.
Normally I see this, someone put a screwdriver or something else to get these seals out, and leaving a damaged edge. I remember a few days / weeks ago there was a thread about the subject, and tonight I had to rebuild the front fork of my brother's Honda scooter. Since he bought the scooter from new, and did the maintenance not by himself, the so-called "Honda specialists" butchered the edge.
Here is how I do it:
I use a small puller, but the problem is that there is nothing to pull against, so I improvise a bit. I put some tools inside (or a shaft, or just a piece of wood), just enough to enable a point that the puller can be used as it should.
The "jaws" of the puller can be mounted inside, or outside, and in this case outside, to pull the seal carefully out.
The puller
These parts are used to give the puller a surface to pull against, all depending on the length of the front fork.
Normally I see this, someone put a screwdriver or something else to get these seals out, and leaving a damaged edge. I remember a few days / weeks ago there was a thread about the subject, and tonight I had to rebuild the front fork of my brother's Honda scooter. Since he bought the scooter from new, and did the maintenance not by himself, the so-called "Honda specialists" butchered the edge.
Here is how I do it:
I use a small puller, but the problem is that there is nothing to pull against, so I improvise a bit. I put some tools inside (or a shaft, or just a piece of wood), just enough to enable a point that the puller can be used as it should.
The "jaws" of the puller can be mounted inside, or outside, and in this case outside, to pull the seal carefully out.
The puller
These parts are used to give the puller a surface to pull against, all depending on the length of the front fork.
^^^Smart idea.
jensen
Veteran Member
Yes, thanks, but you need a small puller, a larger one doesn't give room for the center shaft.
Years ago I developed this idea, playing with all kind of methods to get these stubborn seals out nicely, without damaging too much.
I did the seals on the CB400f the same way, but did not make any pictures, now making up for it.
Years ago I developed this idea, playing with all kind of methods to get these stubborn seals out nicely, without damaging too much.
I did the seals on the CB400f the same way, but did not make any pictures, now making up for it.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
A certain type of narrow-design puller with long jaws.
Do you remember what name/type of application of puller this model you have here was originally created for ? Truck transmission bearings ?
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jensen
Veteran Member
No name, and no application known to me, I don't even know how it ended up in my shed, but I'm glad I have it. The Honda special tool also uses the edge of the front fork as a surface.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Do you also have a Honda(fork seal puller)special tool for removing fork seals ?
jensen
Veteran Member
No, but in the past I made one like the Honda tool. I don't like it because you pull only one point at the time, and using the edge of the fork.
jensen
Veteran Member
A not so good picture:
I carried my phone only, but this is more suitable for a system camera with a strong flashlight. The automatic function is useless here.
The background should be darker, much darker to make the image more dramatic, but the front side of the horse will get darker too, so I would use a gray sky filter to darken the back, and use a flashlight to add more detail to the horse the same time. The ghost reflection is typical for the Iphone, when pointing into direct sunlight, my nikon lens would not have it.
I carried my phone only, but this is more suitable for a system camera with a strong flashlight. The automatic function is useless here.
The background should be darker, much darker to make the image more dramatic, but the front side of the horse will get darker too, so I would use a gray sky filter to darken the back, and use a flashlight to add more detail to the horse the same time. The ghost reflection is typical for the Iphone, when pointing into direct sunlight, my nikon lens would not have it.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
The rays of light are very nice.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
There are some interesting discussions out there about crepuscular light ray angles, causes and effects.
kbongos
Veteran Member
I like the picture of the horse! It's totally blacked out, and it's shadow is in front. I'm sure you wish you had your better photo equipment in the moment. But then the horse would probably run off while your tinkering with the filters and settings.
My shutter bug mom would always tell me, make sure you have the sun in the back of the picture. You are obviously into breaking the rules here.
My shutter bug mom would always tell me, make sure you have the sun in the back of the picture. You are obviously into breaking the rules here.
jensen
Veteran Member
Finally, the rain has stopped, nice weather again!
A nice morning walk, and the commuting trip to the office was a perfect start of the day. First time I actually used the heated gloves on the highest setting, it was cold, 2-3 Deg Celsius (35-ish Fahrenheit).
Due to the cold, the clutch was slipping (around 7K rpm) in the first 13 km, after that, it stopped.
A nice morning walk, and the commuting trip to the office was a perfect start of the day. First time I actually used the heated gloves on the highest setting, it was cold, 2-3 Deg Celsius (35-ish Fahrenheit).
Due to the cold, the clutch was slipping (around 7K rpm) in the first 13 km, after that, it stopped.
kbongos
Veteran Member
I am surprised to learn your area is colder than here in MN, close to freezing is on the chilly side for bike riding. Nice that you can turn up the glove heaters. It is showing 49F this morning, home furnace was running, woke up and noticed wife left a big window all the way open over night. Took the bike only once to work this week, it was a little fussy to start. I'll take bike the next few days, days for riding this season are getting short. We could use a little rain, hasn't done that for 2-3 weeks. It's a dry spell. I understand our weather is colder, more extreme due to being in the middle of North America, far away from the ocean. Being close to ocean tends to even things out, make it warmer. And you are close to the ocean so that is why I would expect your weather to be warmer. Nice pics of the morning sun rays there.
jensen
Veteran Member
The temperature changes are depending of the wind direction and season. In the autumn, if wind from the north, like yesterday, last night and this morning, it's cold here, if wind from the south, it's warm during the day and night. From the west / northwest it's raining and colder. If from the east in winter it can be very cold and dry.
kbongos
Veteran Member
And I suppose Latitude is probably largest factor, Minneapolis at 45N, Netherlands at 52N. I didn't realize you were so far North. So 7 degrees higher, at 69 miles per degree you are 483 miles closer to N pole and your sunshine hours that much less in winter. I see most of EU does the daylight saving time change same as most of US states. Maybe it's time to start looking at heating the garage and getting decent lights to work under.
jensen
Veteran Member
Anyway, yesterday another nice ride on the CB400F, just 1 or 2 degrees above zero. The (battery) heated gloves are a wealth these cold days, pure luxury ! On my XRV750 Africa Twin, I was having heated gloves which were wired / connected to the main battery (and a heated vest underneath my jacket). I could be -10 degrees Celsius and still having sweaty hands. The gloves with built-in batteries are working sufficient, but only for 1 hour maximum (at maximum capacity), so I have to take the charger with me.
This morning, the first frost on the ground, that went quickly from 25 degrees Celsius three weeks ago to 0 degrees Celsius, anyway, these cold sunny mornings are nice for a long morning walk.
During the weekend, I'll de-chrome a few shafts, before grinding and polishing the ends. Grinding will be done next week on a lathe with a grinding set-up, to prepare for re-chroming. I also will de-chrome a few bolts and try to nickle-plate them myself.
It's always a pleasure to walk when the sun rises and a new day is beginning
Frozen grass, first time this year.
No one home.
This morning, the first frost on the ground, that went quickly from 25 degrees Celsius three weeks ago to 0 degrees Celsius, anyway, these cold sunny mornings are nice for a long morning walk.
During the weekend, I'll de-chrome a few shafts, before grinding and polishing the ends. Grinding will be done next week on a lathe with a grinding set-up, to prepare for re-chroming. I also will de-chrome a few bolts and try to nickle-plate them myself.
It's always a pleasure to walk when the sun rises and a new day is beginning
Frozen grass, first time this year.
No one home.
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jensen
Veteran Member
The kick-starter of my CB400F was a little loose, so I took it off a few weeks ago. I use late copper in various thicknesses to get rid of the play between the kick-starter and (NOS) kick-starter shaft. I started with 0,1 mm thickness, and if that doesn't hold, I'll go to 0,15 mm or even thicker.
The thin copper sheet (late copper) is cut to fit between the shaft and kick-starter,
I asked niceley to my co-workers if i could get some late copper strips for myself in varius thicknesses, no problem.
I also found that we have thin sheets of steel on the roll, from 0.02 to 0.5 mm and everything in between. I did cut some of it, very useful for feeler gauges.
At every 5 - 6 inches the thickness is written, nice !
The thin copper sheet (late copper) is cut to fit between the shaft and kick-starter,
I asked niceley to my co-workers if i could get some late copper strips for myself in varius thicknesses, no problem.
I also found that we have thin sheets of steel on the roll, from 0.02 to 0.5 mm and everything in between. I did cut some of it, very useful for feeler gauges.
At every 5 - 6 inches the thickness is written, nice !
jensen
Veteran Member
@ballbearian: During early breakfast I was watching Discovery channel a documentary about large factories and this time Mack was visited, and it was said that the engines were built in Hagerstown, and it sounded familiar to me, and then I remembered that you live there.
Btw, earlier this week was a documentary about BMW (X3), also build in the US, and the difference in digital maturity was huge. Amazing that factory's like mack still exists and still can compete with other truck brands with a much higher digital maturity.
Since I work in this field, these programs are always nice to watch, to see how far other companies are in the maturity level.
Btw, earlier this week was a documentary about BMW (X3), also build in the US, and the difference in digital maturity was huge. Amazing that factory's like mack still exists and still can compete with other truck brands with a much higher digital maturity.
Since I work in this field, these programs are always nice to watch, to see how far other companies are in the maturity level.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Mack is now owned by Volvo and only makes drive line components. It used to be much bigger but probably has gradually outsourced many components and assembly. Perhaps Volvo has not been very aggressive updating this plant's production technology or are only keeping Volvo truck parts in production. I'll admit to not being very well informed of the local economic dynamics around here.
Several decades ago Hagerstown was known for textiles and clothing but much manufacturing has disappeared, also Fairchild Aircraft was produced here and the old plant is very near my house.
Several decades ago Hagerstown was known for textiles and clothing but much manufacturing has disappeared, also Fairchild Aircraft was produced here and the old plant is very near my house.
jensen
Veteran Member
In Hagerstown, the Mack engine factory is located, I don't know / forgot in which town the engines are merged to the chassis. The digital maturity in the engine factory was higher than in the chassis factory, I saw also wooden crates marked with VOLVO, thus indeed, at least that part is taken over by Volvo.
I have been to a few automotive plants in Europe, including the Toyota Aygo factory in the UK. It's always impressive to see how these factories are automated step by step. The goal is working toward a "dark factory", a factory where only robots are working, day and night, without lights on, no human interaction during the assembly and production process anymore. I wish I could share some more detailed information about the factories I was involved in, developing the next steps in digital maturity (I'm mainly active in the first three steps, and sometimes in step 4).
I have been to a few automotive plants in Europe, including the Toyota Aygo factory in the UK. It's always impressive to see how these factories are automated step by step. The goal is working toward a "dark factory", a factory where only robots are working, day and night, without lights on, no human interaction during the assembly and production process anymore. I wish I could share some more detailed information about the factories I was involved in, developing the next steps in digital maturity (I'm mainly active in the first three steps, and sometimes in step 4).
ballbearian
Veteran Member
In step 4, the robots are brought into the plant from, the robot factory, I guess. Are robots used to make the robots? Full circle, at that point.
I remember hearing that the term 'robot' was first used by a Czechoslovakian playwright, can't remember his name. "Rosum's Universal Robots" was the English title, IIRC.
I remember hearing that the term 'robot' was first used by a Czechoslovakian playwright, can't remember his name. "Rosum's Universal Robots" was the English title, IIRC.
Richard Pitman
Veteran Member
It was Karel Capek. I used to love Isaac Asimovs robot stories, although I can't imagine his three laws of robotics being applied to some of the nasty stuff already out there. Can't remember if this was one of his, but there was a short story in which all the worlds computers were linked together. ( this predated the internet by several decades ), and when they were switched on, the chief engineer asked the question ' Is there a God ?', to which the answer 'There is now !'. He rushed to the On/Off switch but was struck down by a lightning bolt.
Prescient stuff, in these days of AI. Shades of 'Skynet'.
Prescient stuff, in these days of AI. Shades of 'Skynet'.
jensen
Veteran Member
Fear for changes in technology is as old as humanity, every generation is affected in some way (Robert Pirsig is a good read). I did read some books of Isaac Asimov, and indeed breaching the three laws is probably already a fact in the defense industry. Automation in general, and AI specifically, are used in lots of ways, good and bad. If you look at the use of AI in healthcare, diagnosing and development of medicines on one side, and unfortunately, the use of this technology in the defense industries, the possibilities are endless.
As usual, the governments should steer this technology in a certain direction, but as always, governments are slow when it comes to being in the lead. Company's will use these technologies in every way possible, good and bad, it's the government that has to guide, define boundary's and supervise.
AndrewJK
Veteran Member
If You have not crossed this, try "Fables for Robots" by Stanislaw Lem. All his books are quite unique.
Richard Pitman
Veteran Member
Probably wishful thinking, but in theory robotics and AI should mean that future generations should be able to live comfortable lives without having to work. This would of course depend on the equitable distribution of wealth, the Elon Musks of that future paradise sharing their wealth with the persons who no longer had employment. I can't think of any task done by humans that couldn't be done by automatons. For example, when I started my career in biomedical science, working in a hospital pathology laboratory, one speciality was cervical smear screening (PAP test), screeners sitting at microscopes examining these stained slides for signs of the early stages of cervical cancer. Or sadly, the later stages. A labour intensive and skilled process from start to end, specimen collection, laboratory processing, screening, results to clinicians manually by hand written report.
Now replaced by liquid based cytology. Simpler and easier sample collection, automated processing in the laboratory, screeners soon, if not already, replaced by AI pattern recognition, results to clinician obviously by computer. And dare I say, having done quite a bit of screening myself in the early years, more accurate. Certainly much faster.
I don't buy into the Terminator type paranoia, machines deciding our fate, but the potential for misuse by bad actors is worrying. Imagine someone asking an AI system ' design an improved SARs virus', for example.
And returning to science fiction, one theory that we have not been contacted by extra terrestrials is that there are 'wolves' out there, who target and exterminate any signs of intelligent life. Which of course means that we are at no risk at all ...
Now replaced by liquid based cytology. Simpler and easier sample collection, automated processing in the laboratory, screeners soon, if not already, replaced by AI pattern recognition, results to clinician obviously by computer. And dare I say, having done quite a bit of screening myself in the early years, more accurate. Certainly much faster.
I don't buy into the Terminator type paranoia, machines deciding our fate, but the potential for misuse by bad actors is worrying. Imagine someone asking an AI system ' design an improved SARs virus', for example.
And returning to science fiction, one theory that we have not been contacted by extra terrestrials is that there are 'wolves' out there, who target and exterminate any signs of intelligent life. Which of course means that we are at no risk at all ...
ballbearian
Veteran Member
This would be step 5 and should loop back and refine the work done in steps 1-3, if done in a responsible, moral and positive human values way. Unfortunately, powerful authorities view their determinations made in step 5 as final and immune to other considerations.
World population control and resource management decisions have and are being made, without these considerations.
The enemies of humanity in this world deserve more focused attention than speculation of enemies beyond this world, but that distraction could be very useful to further implement an evil agenda already underway by unaccountable tyrants. Fear is a powerful two-edged sword, like truth.
There is a difference between error and evil. AI is neither, essentially, just like the humans that created it, therefore it can never be God. Until this, oldest controversy of all, is settled once and for all, there will be conflict.
I admire Jensen's ability to work in the first three steps, whether, professionally, as a career or a life purpose.
I think our vintage Hondas are like little Mack trucks, in a way.
frankjames1900
Veteran Member
Again, thanks for the heads up. I've been going over your 400/4 thread and I find it very informative and interesting. It's going to take a while to absorb all that but it will be well worth gaining the knowledge.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Nice bench and Shop
frankjames1900
Veteran Member
Nice bench and Shop
Thank you.
jensen
Veteran Member
Thanks for the kind words, and I see you have a good illuminated work bench ! At the moment I'm switching illumination in my own shed, from 2700 K LED (warm white) to 4000 K LED (cool white). The 4000 K illumination gives a better color representation than the warmer white illumination. It's nice to know people that produce illuminators for the industry (work related contact), so I did test a few high output LED illuminators with 4000 K LED's.
I'm also busy with maintenance, rebuilding a front leg (again) of the moped for my brother. This one was leaking after I changed the seals, but the seal wasn't leaking on the inside, via the inner leg, but the oil came out between the seal and the aluminum housing. I mentioned a few posts back (post #508) that someone was in there, scratching that era (trying to pry the seal out with s screwdriver or so). I did put a new seal in, and used liquid gasket for the outer of the seal, it's now good to go, but I asked my brother to keep an eye on it. Maybe next time, when it's leaking, I'll use JB weld, to fill up the deep scratch.
My own CB400F is on the stand as well, for maintenance. The coming season I'll use that bike not so much, but if I'm going to use it I want the bike to be reliable.
Things to do are:
- removing the exhaust system, and check for rust (especially the collector), painting those spots with heat-resistant gray paint
- remove the oil pan and check for particles in the pan (first time after the rebuild)
- change all fluids except the engine oil (this was done lately, together with the oil filter)
- remove the valve cover to check the valves, rockers, camshaft and adjust the cam chain tension
- clean the bike, clean the electrical contacts, and treat the contacts with Vaseline
- change the rear tire, since the tire is square and worn (8000 km)
- take out the carburetors, cleaning the jets, adjust the float height.
- add two new mirrors to the bike
- fix small flows
- maybe add e-ignition, but not sure.
The CB72 and C77 dream parts are at the painter, and will be ready end of February, so I have to hurry because after getting the CB400F ready for next season, I have to do maintenance to the CB450 K0 as well. In the meantime, I'm busy rebuilding the engines for the C77 and CB72, but I only need the workbench for that, not the bikestand.
The SS50 is almost done, just waiting for some small parts to finish the bike. The bike has new tires, brakes are cleaned and the SS50 is on the wheels again.
Meanwhile, lots of walking in the morning, resulting in an average of 11,0 km (6,8 mls) a day over the whole year. I had a full body check last week, and my metabolic age was 42 (I'm 57 years old), so no bad at all.
I can't make many pictures during my morning walk, since it's always dark (I leave the house at 6.15 in the morning, and sunrise is around 8.30 or so).
The village I live is situated at the water front, and in the winter I'm walking mostly another route, since I don't want to have a collision with trees.
This is a picture made around 8.30, dusk, and no details. And when it is raining, it's even worse.
The stripes are rain drops, the shutter speed of the camera is very low, to collect enough light.
Luckily, the lights in town are always on, and the trees are illuminated with Christmas lights.
Since the shortest, darkest day is behind us (21 December), it's only getting better day by day from now on until spring will arrive.
I wish you all a healthy and happy new year and hopefully being able to ride and wrench on our bikes !
I'm also busy with maintenance, rebuilding a front leg (again) of the moped for my brother. This one was leaking after I changed the seals, but the seal wasn't leaking on the inside, via the inner leg, but the oil came out between the seal and the aluminum housing. I mentioned a few posts back (post #508) that someone was in there, scratching that era (trying to pry the seal out with s screwdriver or so). I did put a new seal in, and used liquid gasket for the outer of the seal, it's now good to go, but I asked my brother to keep an eye on it. Maybe next time, when it's leaking, I'll use JB weld, to fill up the deep scratch.
My own CB400F is on the stand as well, for maintenance. The coming season I'll use that bike not so much, but if I'm going to use it I want the bike to be reliable.
Things to do are:
- removing the exhaust system, and check for rust (especially the collector), painting those spots with heat-resistant gray paint
- remove the oil pan and check for particles in the pan (first time after the rebuild)
- change all fluids except the engine oil (this was done lately, together with the oil filter)
- remove the valve cover to check the valves, rockers, camshaft and adjust the cam chain tension
- clean the bike, clean the electrical contacts, and treat the contacts with Vaseline
- change the rear tire, since the tire is square and worn (8000 km)
- take out the carburetors, cleaning the jets, adjust the float height.
- add two new mirrors to the bike
- fix small flows
- maybe add e-ignition, but not sure.
The CB72 and C77 dream parts are at the painter, and will be ready end of February, so I have to hurry because after getting the CB400F ready for next season, I have to do maintenance to the CB450 K0 as well. In the meantime, I'm busy rebuilding the engines for the C77 and CB72, but I only need the workbench for that, not the bikestand.
The SS50 is almost done, just waiting for some small parts to finish the bike. The bike has new tires, brakes are cleaned and the SS50 is on the wheels again.
Meanwhile, lots of walking in the morning, resulting in an average of 11,0 km (6,8 mls) a day over the whole year. I had a full body check last week, and my metabolic age was 42 (I'm 57 years old), so no bad at all.
I can't make many pictures during my morning walk, since it's always dark (I leave the house at 6.15 in the morning, and sunrise is around 8.30 or so).
The village I live is situated at the water front, and in the winter I'm walking mostly another route, since I don't want to have a collision with trees.
This is a picture made around 8.30, dusk, and no details. And when it is raining, it's even worse.
The stripes are rain drops, the shutter speed of the camera is very low, to collect enough light.
Luckily, the lights in town are always on, and the trees are illuminated with Christmas lights.
Since the shortest, darkest day is behind us (21 December), it's only getting better day by day from now on until spring will arrive.
I wish you all a healthy and happy new year and hopefully being able to ride and wrench on our bikes !
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Happy New Year to you Jensen
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
+1 Jensen
ballbearian
Veteran Member
I too find 3200 K (daylight) and above much better to resolve detail in my shop. I always buy the 4000K LED strip lights so I get more lumens per used wattage.
I still love your photos even with the irregular lighting available.
May the light grow longer and stronger, both within and without from this time of the year onward.
I still love your photos even with the irregular lighting available.
May the light grow longer and stronger, both within and without from this time of the year onward.
jensen
Veteran Member
Today I started with the tear down, taking the coils off the bike to make room for lifting the valve cover.
Everything seemed lubricated well, and no flaws or damages at first sight.
Left side of the camshaft.
Right side of the camshaft
Hardly any wear of the rockers, more or less the same as last time when I was in there. The bearings look as new, no scratches at all.
All cam bearing surfaces are in good shape.
Next job is to take the clutch cover off, and disassemble the clutch and measure the plates, collecting data on what to replace to stop the clutch slipping.
Everything seemed lubricated well, and no flaws or damages at first sight.
Left side of the camshaft.
Right side of the camshaft
Hardly any wear of the rockers, more or less the same as last time when I was in there. The bearings look as new, no scratches at all.
All cam bearing surfaces are in good shape.
Next job is to take the clutch cover off, and disassemble the clutch and measure the plates, collecting data on what to replace to stop the clutch slipping.
jensen
Veteran Member
Yesterday I cleaned the battery and battery compartment, checked the connections, checked the battery venting hose for clogging. After that, I filled the battery with demineralized water, all cells needed a few cc's. It is said that these bikes have a weak generator, but mine is strong, and that leads to water loss over the season. However, I have to say that I replaced the taillight with a LED bulb, and warning lights too. I did put the battery on the trickle charger overnight, and this afternoon the battery was fully charged.
I did put the battery back in the battery compartment and connected the wires after spraying acid-free Vaseline on the contacts.
Time to see if the oil pump is still up to it's task by starting the engine with the starting motor, and checking for oil flow at the cylinder head (since the cover is off, I have a clear view on the oil gallery's. I was surprised to see that the oil was actually leaving the oil jets horizontally due to the pressure (at starting rpm). I checked for balance between left and right side, and that seemed to be in order too.
After hitting the starter button, the oil flow started within 3 to 4 seconds, well the pictures tell the story themself
I did put the battery back in the battery compartment and connected the wires after spraying acid-free Vaseline on the contacts.
Time to see if the oil pump is still up to it's task by starting the engine with the starting motor, and checking for oil flow at the cylinder head (since the cover is off, I have a clear view on the oil gallery's. I was surprised to see that the oil was actually leaving the oil jets horizontally due to the pressure (at starting rpm). I checked for balance between left and right side, and that seemed to be in order too.
After hitting the starter button, the oil flow started within 3 to 4 seconds, well the pictures tell the story themself
jensen
Veteran Member
Tonight, I took the exhaust system off, as planned. All exhaust area's looked good, but unfortunately, lots of corrosion behind the headers.
The oil at the front of cylinder four isn't coming from the head gasket, it's spilled oil from the oil pump tetst, see pictures in an earlier post. As can be seen, I use this bike as my daily rider, in good, and in bad weather,
Corrosion here, this is nr.2, this cylinder was slightly leaner than the others, a little more blue-isch color
Lots of corrosion here, but after cleaning they go back in.
A little surface rust, nothing that I can't fix.
The oil at the front of cylinder four isn't coming from the head gasket, it's spilled oil from the oil pump tetst, see pictures in an earlier post. As can be seen, I use this bike as my daily rider, in good, and in bad weather,
Corrosion here, this is nr.2, this cylinder was slightly leaner than the others, a little more blue-isch color
Lots of corrosion here, but after cleaning they go back in.
A little surface rust, nothing that I can't fix.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Interesting the rust forms at the ends of the steel header flanges and adheres to the crush washer gaskets. Do you retorque the header nuts after a few hundred kilometers?
I wonder if painting head studs could stop rust, unless they were removed for replating?
I wonder if painting head studs could stop rust, unless they were removed for replating?
Very clean overall for a rider bike that gets used in different weather conditions. Your a very detail oriented person with excellent mechanical skills and knowledge.
One of my favourite past models that I restored and rode a few of them. The parakeet yellow and the varnish blue were my favourite ones.
One of my favourite past models that I restored and rode a few of them. The parakeet yellow and the varnish blue were my favourite ones.
jensen
Veteran Member
Yes, I did re-torque the header nuts (twice), they were tight. I did not plate the header studs, however, I did plate the collar joints, but all the plating seems to be gone. Since I ride my bike early in the morning (commuting), fog is my enemy. Another part is done by the rainy days. I will brush everything off, and try to protect it, don't know yet, with what kind of spray / etc.
Boosted
Veteran Member
is that an Iridium spark plug ?
jensen
Veteran Member
Sharp eye !, Yes, since these are affordable, I use them in every bike when possible. When these where available many years ago I had to pay 50 euro's a piece, and used them in my 2-stroke motorcycles. Later, I got them for my XRV750 Africa Twin, 2 per cylinder, a set back of 120 euro at that time. But if you ever had to replace spark plugs on a XRV750 Africa Twin you know that it was worth it! (to replace the two spark plugs per cylinder you had to take of the air filter, fuel tank, drain the coolant, take of the two radiators, and lots of small stuff. All in all, it takes 4 hours to replace the spark plugs on a XRV750 AT, I rather spend that time to do something else.
These spark plugs just don't give issue's, even with the oil that is burned in a two stroke motorcycle. If it's good enough for a 2-stroke, it certainly is good for a 4-stroke engine. I have to replace them every 50.000 to 60.000 km, so virtually never.
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ballbearian
Veteran Member
Are they resistor type plugs?
I think most of the iridium plugs for our bikes are. I remember @76Twin used BR8EIX in his CB500T and liked them.