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The 62 CA95 Basket Case Rescue Log, Start Date June 1st 2024

I'm a bit concerned with the oil dripping from the exhaust at the head and muffler joint. I suspect the valve seats. I reused the cylinder head from the original engine, which by the way, was disassembled in 1966. I cleaned up the head, installed new valve guides, reemed the valve guides to spec to accept the new valves. Possible mistake? I lapped in the new valve to the uncut seats. I followed advice to fill the piston dome (when the head was upside-down) with light solvent (isopropanol alcohol) and check for leaks. No leaks.

The cylinders were rebored to .75 over size and proper rings installed and ring gaps staggered 10 O'clock, 3 O'clock and 6 O'clock, I assume all is well with the rings. I measured the exhaust ports and fit new copper crush gaskets hoping to seal the exhaust, to no avail.

So, the bike starts fast and blows oil. After she warms up and at idle, no smoke from exhaust. Quick throttle up and oil blows from the exhaust flange and at the muffler/exhaust joint (aftermarket mufflers) Aftermarket mufflers are bogus mufflers. No internal baffles! Straight through! No backpressure.

Unlike past builds, like the CA95 I built from scratch back in 2012, this build was a bit more challenging. One reason is the bike is an early 1962, but the other concern today is the lack of serviceable parts and often unreliable replacement parts.

IMG_5144 oil.jpg IMG_5146 Oil.jpgIMG_5148-Oil.jpg

I still love to tinker with this old dream and, believe or not. enjoy the continued journey to solve issues while sharing my experience with this forum.
 
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Seems like it would be easy to eliminate the valve seals as the issue. Pull the cover plugs and hose down the seal area to see if it leaks into cylinder. Alternately to eliminate the valves (that I don't think you are supposed to lap) Pull a single cover plug and put your hand over it to see what kind of pressure you have.
 
ancientdad said:
Hard to be sure, the word "lots" is hard to quantify but you will feel air movement out of the breather tube even when the engine isn't running (but rotating) because both pistons are still moving downward once a revolution and that alone would push air out of the crankcase.
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I like following this forum. I'm concerned about the oil coming from the exhaust as above. I'm thinking mechanical but not venting! Then I read about to member oldjeep observing lots of air coming out of the vent at the top of the cylinder head when he turns over his newly rebuilt CA95 engine. So, I pull my upper cylinder vent tube out of the carb and note no trace of petroleum vapor or residue! Tube still new and perfect! I blow into the hose to find out, I can't! (no taste of oil to boot) I'm building pressure in the head! I bet I installed cylinder head pancake gasket/gasket plate incorrectly. I swear sometimes I can jump through hoops, but trip on a twig....
 
The header flanges are lower than the head surface so will drip from if there is a head gasket leak. If you did put in all the knock pins (4 listed in parts book) it may lessen or stop with a head nut retorque. I think I retorqued mine to over 20ft/lbs to stop a fine spray onto my lower front fender.
Best guess is a headgasket area leak.

If it leaks at the valve stems or guides it would enter the combustion chamber then out to the tail pipes. I kinda doubt that.

Bad tappet cover Orings could also be it. There is a lot of very dark drips on your starter, it seems.
Maybe that plugged breather is also contributing.
 
Thanks. I unscrewed the dipstick and blew into the breather tube with success. I will retorque the head bolts as suggested. A long-time mechanic friend tells me to idle the engine for an hour with a box fan to keep the engine cool. His claim is the possibly of building pressure and/or the rings are not seated. About the venting, in order to vent, air has to enter the crankcase at some point. Thanks for the input!
 
I have finally reached the age that I have forgotten more than I have learned. I was in contact with a British fellow by the name Sam Green when I was working on my 1st CA95 rebuild project back in 08. At that time, I was writing in a forum like this one, and that's when I virtually met Sam. Sam's team "Sam Greene Racing" was amongst other bikes, was racing the Honda C95's. Last I heard from Sam was back in 2013, he had a nasty racing accident at that time. I haven't heard from Sam since, but I ran across an old post regarding CA95 tubing route and a couple of his C95 racing pics. racing benly 1.jpgracing benly 3.jpgracing benly 4.jpgracing benly 5.jpgI've edited his advice by listing which tube he is referring to.

#1. The hose from the valve/cam box cover rarely emits anything unless you over fill with oil or you have broken piston rings.
This hose can be pushed inside the frame but take it over the air filter element and down almost to the crankcase. I
This will stop it messing up your paper filter should anything come out of it. If not long enough, get another.
I run mine into a small plastic catch tank inside the frame (required for racing) but in all its years of use nothing got caught.

#2. The hose from the carburetor insulator. Don't push this one into the air filter, it needs to be open and unrestricted as it allows cooling for the inlet valve guides.

#3. The carb bowl overflow. personally, I don't bother with this one, I would rather be able to see if it was overflowing than having it tucked away and peeing
gas all over the floor. That one's up to you.

#4. The battery breather tube, get one long enough to almost reach the floor.
You wouldn't believe the number of chromed exhausts I have seen ruined because this one was to short.
 
This exhaust issue with the oil dripping onto my starter motor was resolved by removing the copper crush washer I installed; cleaning port and pipe surfaces and simply following advice to use copper-based exhaust sealant. The manifold clamps now fit snug. My guess is maybe original washers remained in the head and adding additional fiber gasket supplied with the engine gasket kit or copper crush washers were not needed and maybe caused the exhaust leak they were intended to seal.

Lots or air is emitted from the cam/valve box. My concerns regarding engine breathing issue were unfounded.

While I wait for inspector to sign off on the Kentucky Issued VIN plate now mounted on the steering neck, I have been running the engine at 15-minute intervals when possible.
Each 15-minute run emits less oil smoke. I'm going with the idea that the new rings are beginning to seat.

Next minor issue is the rear tire may to be deflated and remounted or replaced. Another side project is building another seat and using a later model seat stay. I think this time I will use a red cover. I'm fairly happy with the seat I modified to fit early in the project, but it fits tight at the back seat stay and not fully up to the tank. Once the bike is finished, titled, licensed and bugs worked out the journey may conclude.
 
Spokes said:
This exhaust issue with the oil dripping onto my starter motor was resolved by removing the copper crush washer I installed; cleaning port and pipe surfaces and simply following advice to use copper-based exhaust sealant. The manifold clamps now fit snug. My guess is maybe original washers remained in the head and adding additional fiber gasket supplied with the engine gasket kit or copper crush washers were not needed and maybe caused the exhaust leak they were intended to seal.

Lots or air is emitted from the cam/valve box. My concerns regarding engine breathing issue were unfounded.

While I wait for inspector to sign off on the Kentucky Issued VIN plate now mounted on the steering neck, I have been running the engine at 15-minute intervals when possible.
Each 15-minute run emits less oil smoke. I'm going with the idea that the new rings are beginning to seat.

Next minor issue is the rear tire may to be deflated and remounted or replaced. Another side project is building another seat and using a later model seat stay. I think this time I will use a red cover. I'm fairly happy with the seat I modified to fit early in the project, but it fits tight at the back seat stay and not fully up to the tank. Once the bike is finished, titled, licensed and bugs worked out the journey may conclude.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear the end game de-bugging is going well.

I figured there wasn't much room for exhaust gaskets since only those floppy things were OEM, but I can't stand those things so I was careful to totally remove any old ones and just used one set of the crush washers. Good trick to use the copper sealer, I'll have to remember that.

I bet your rings are about ready for some medium power riding to fully seat them more.
 
Spokes said:
Next minor issue is the rear tire may to be deflated and remounted or replaced. Another side project is building another seat and using a later model seat stay. I think this time I will use a red cover. I'm fairly happy with the seat I modified to fit early in the project, but it fits tight at the back seat stay and not fully up to the tank
Click to expand...
Log date 4-8-25. Several corners cut during my project have smitten me. The rear tire was found on eBay used but in great shape. Even had the small spindly nubs normally found on new tires.
Price was low. Seller said the tire was on a bike during storage. Well, looks and description were deceiving once mounted. Apparently, this tire must have been flat for some time and the sidewall is distorted, even when inflated it will not seat straight on the rim. New tire ordered and rework (as they say in manufacturing) once the new tire arrives.

I noticed the free seat offered by another member had a bent frame and took on the challenge of making the seat frame good. All tricks to get the frame back to straight close to fit and finish, failed. Another used seat frame ordered, and I will try my luck again. I salvage mounts when I fail to bring back parts to usable condition. In addition to original muffler mounts so too the seat mounts go. I've been thinking of building a solo seat and straight pipes anyway. IMG_5197 mount.jpg
 
I still have my original OEM early style seat, with it's bracket, and eventually will redo it's padding and cover but it's available for measurements and pics, if that helps.
The cheap $30 cafe seat is not very soft, but the old shocks are. I just like the riding position and looks. A vintage bicycle tool bag filled the front gap nicely so it will stay for awhile.
BviiwHim.jpg



I was so pleased after I swapped the original tires on my 63 C200 for some modern Michelin City Extra tires. Totally improved the ride and handling.
I ordered and have some Shinko SR714 modern tread in 90/80-16 but have not mounted them, so can't 100% vouch for the fit, etc., but since the Benly uses the same rim as the Dreams, I'm hoping they will sit pretty good. I measured the width recently when replacing Charles's Dream tires.
1 7/8", 47.5mm, so I'm calling them a W1.70 width.

Wouldn't be great if all the CA95 projects could get together for a group ride? One big Benly Battalion Boogie.

ym4v96s.jpg
 
ballbearian said:
Wouldn't be great if all the CA95 projects could get together for a group ride? One big Benly Battalion Boogie.
Click to expand...
Great picture. I just wish there were a FEW vintage bikes (other than mine) around my area, or they'd at least come out and play once in a while. I know they're out there, but they must be under house arrest.
 
ballbearian said:
I still have my original OEM early style seat, with it's bracket, and eventually will redo it's padding and cover but it's available for measurements and pics, if that helps.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer! I plan to plow ahead with the new (old) seat when it arrives today. I also have the new cover ordered and have padding on hand. If the next seat works out, great. If not, then the modified seat in this pic will remain. The 62 is a great project with learning curves. Some curves are engineering differences between early and late years, other curves come from sloppy steering (old age).IMG_4564.JPG
 
Replaced the rear tire today and went down to the Clerk of Courts to get my plates. Can't get plates until my Classic Title comes in. Once my Classic title is in hand, I have to get yet another inspection for road worthiness. The bike starts better & faster with no smoke. Hopefully my title and registration journey will be successful by months end.
I fit the new (old) seat pan & later model seat stay. Fits just right. I'm looking forward to the look of a red seat on my red bike, titled, registered with plates. I'm contemplating making my own tank badge. I made my own tank badge for my CA95 Army Theme bike as in this pic. IMG_0645 ready for action.JPG
 
Finished my red seat today. The seat looks a bit orange as compared to the original red paint of the 62. The seat itself comes from a later year CA95 or CA160 for that matter and I used a later year seat stay to fit. I'm a bit out to lunch with the red seat. Red seat changes the personality of the 62 for sure. Attached are a couple of pics, before and after seat and black seat vs red seat on the bike. No Honda stencil on the back.IMG_5199 Rusty frame.jpgIMG_5204 Bare frame clean.jpgIMG_5223 read finished seat.jpgIMG_5224 black seat.jpgIMG_5227 red seat.jpgIMG_5229 red seat back.jpg
 
Spokes said:
4-10-2025 Replaced the rear tire today and went down to the Clerk of Courts to get my plates. Can't get plates until my Classic Title comes in. Once my Classic title is in hand, I have to get yet another inspection for road worthiness.
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4-28-2025. Classic title received today. Last step is Sheriff's inspection for roadworthiness. Made the call to inspector and begin the last phase of the wait.
So far (sorry if I have previously mentioned registration steps to title a "project vehicle" in Kentucky)

Need a Bill of Sale for out of state vehicles (non-running) and over 25 years old. I generated my own BOS using Excel and legal jargon found on BOS forms found online.
Complete form TC96-182 and have Sherriff inspect bike for numbers (do not mark "what type of title at this point)
Pre-1970 vehicles: Fill out TC96-169 "Application for vehicle or hull identification number" The state of KY issues VIN numbers for pre-VIN vehicles.
Take both forms & Bill of Sale to Clerk of Courts. Sign all forms in front of clerk.

10 business days later you get a VIN number issued by KY.
Complete form TC96-182 again. Have the bike inspected 2nd time with VIN plate fixed to fame.

10 business days later you get a "Classic Title. Vehicle has to be inspected again for road worthiness.
I'm at this point today. Waiting for my 3rd inspection.
 
5-6-2025

Classic title received. 3rd inspection complete. Bike registered, I opted for historic plates (issued).
Classic title to be converted to standard modern vehicle title as per state protocol. Standard title process time is 3 weeks. But I am finally legal. 1st time bike registered since 1966.
First "longer ride" complete. A few more minor issues noted. The throttle needle needs to be adjusted up one or two notches as she chokes on full throttle. Front tire needs remounting, the bead not fully flush with the rim giving a lump in the ride. Mirrors nice but useless. I need to buy some round stock and make higher and extend further past controls.
I made a prosthetic right hand tank badge until a decent one comes along, or new replacements ordered. 

IMG_5289 with plates.jpg IMG_5292 black badge.jpg
 
It has been a fun follow. So glad you got that longer ride in.
I kinda like your custom tank badge too. It's another custom touch that fits. A better closeup pic would be nice.

Lately been thinking about your signature line quote by Plato, it's a good one. Thanks.
 
It has been a pleasure and an honor to be part of this community and share my latest project. I really did not expect to build another CA95. It so happened that one evening I was surfing eBay and saw this mess of a bike only two hours away and knew I could break it down to fit in my Kia Soul and get it home.
I'm also pleased to have made virtual acquaintances with members like yourself as well. Glad my spare parts found good project homes. I may post a few more observations and repairs, but in the end, I will sell the bike and throw my "line" back in the water for another catch.

The badge. I cropped a picture of my "moon eyes" badge. All I did was to make a silicon mold of the badge I have, mix a little fiberglass resin into polyester body filler using the body filler hardener and pouring the mixture into my mold. Once set up I sanded the outer surface smooth and simply covered the mold with wide vinyl tape. The moon eyes were cut from a sticker.

I've cast badges with clear resin and a printed picture and made badges from tooled leather. It's just a finesse thing.

Thanks to all who have followed my project! Maybe sometime in the future another CA95 or CA160 clunker may find its way into my shop. IMG_0645 ready for action close up.JPGIMG_5292 black badge Moon Eyes.jpg
 
Spokes said:
I may post a few more observations and repairs, but in the end, I will sell the bike and throw my "line" back in the water for another catch.
Click to expand...
I thought by now I would be enjoying short rides on the 62 and get her ready to sell. but I have a nagging and perplexing issue. I can't get her to throttle up. She coughs, stumbles every time. I cannot adjust timing at the points which leads me to believe it's a timing issue. I've adjusted valves, the carb is as clean as new, good fuel, carb bowl adjusted properly. For those who have followed my journey, your aware of all of the detailed engine work. One last attempt pending to check internal timing at the cam/crankshaft again. This last time breaking into the cam/crankshaft part of the engine, I will loosely reassemble the engine to the point of checking the points to reassure all is well before final button up. This particular project has been the most challenging of all bikes in the past. But then again, I think old age has dented the noggin.

I plan to let go of the bike sometime in June once she's tip top.
 
I'm recording this journey and sharing decisions, concepts and techniques. Some techniques are finesse, some based on past experiences and with this build, some gambles.
My advice triggers responses, which is a good thing. Occasional stings are expected. My advice is not gospel. I must say that elder years dull the senses and wisdom based on personal life's abundance is hard to pass along. Having stated my case, my journey with the 62 continues.

The engine has never run correctly. Somethings screwy. One thing I have not done in the past was to salvage a cylinder head. All past bike builds came with, or I sourced good cylinder heads. I fear the cylinder head is either cracked, my valve job is crappy or perhaps broken rings or somehow, maybe, but I doubt the rings are not staggered.

The saga continues. I will solve this issue.

Thanks, all followers for tagging along on my journey.
 
ballbearian said:
Dry compression?
Click to expand...
Cylinders wet with residual fuel. One aspect that dawned on me is the new valves. I never measured the new valves against the old original valves. Unfortunately, I sold the old valves and spare parts, so I don't have any reference at this point. I did my due diligence reassembling the upper cylinder making sure rings were staggered, head gasket correct, valves adjusted, torqued head nuts. I admit I got the timing wrong at first and since corrected.
Let's say new aftermarket valves were slightly too long. One would think the cam lobe would strike the valve early, thus bleeding compression early. Just a thought.

I don't mind pulling the engine to find out and intend do so. I will fix a couple of oil leaks as well. Gaskets or seals somewhere have not sealed. Being the engine is made of mixed parts; I will add sealer to the case gaskets or change seals if need be.

Compression is just under 100# each cylinder equal measurement. Cylinders freshly bored .75 over. I'm keenly interested to find the cause of this poor running engine.
 
Being equal and low, would make me question the compression tester itself, before a teardown. If the same result with another tester then proceed with a leakdown test, compressor and special leakdown gauge needed.
Hopefully it's just a compression test failure and the engine is fine. Wet plugs sounds like a poor timing or spark failure, coil failure too. I like a strobe timing light (use a separate 12volt battery to power the strobe) that will show spark cutting out as rpms are raised, and check both sides. A cheap inductive weedwhacker tachometer/hour meter comes in handy too, for assessing your advance curve.
Don't breakdown the motor till you've ruled out all the above.

I don't think you would have been able to do a proper valve adjustment if the valves were wrong.
 
Thanks for the input! I will recheck the compression with another gauge. Never thought about coil failure. I will continue to dig in and report out!
 
I thought about timing. Set pistons TDC. Points open. OK
Rotate Crankshaft 360. Points open way before TDC
Points stopped at the same lobe position
One would think spark at TDC (or slightly before) would occur consistently.

If the above were true, one-cylinder fires perfectly whilst the other cylinder fires before TDC, back & forth.
I'm almost embarrassed to ask this question! Timing?
 
Spokes said:
Thanks for the input! I will recheck the compression with another gauge. Never thought about coil failure. I will continue to dig in and report out!
Click to expand...
Don't forget to pull both spark plugs and clamp the throttle wide open, choke open too.

I had a weird bad coil on my Dream that checked out fine with a meter and resistances, it even started and idled fine, but pooped out in the mid throttle area when riding. The ignition had been left on too many times and it had overheated and had a partial internal melt down.
I've never replaced a 6volt coil on a Benly. I had ordered a dual wire 6volt coil from 4into1 but haven't tried it. Not sure if it has the correct resistance and haven't found a spec anywhere as to the original value. If that 4into1 isn't good, then I suppose using two single wire types (like for a CT90) might work. Unknown territory.
 
Spokes said:
I thought about timing. Set pistons TDC. Points open. OK
Rotate Crankshaft 360. Points open way before TDC
Points stopped at the same lobe position
One would think spark at TDC (or slightly before) would occur consistently.

If the above were true, one-cylinder fires perfectly whilst the other cylinder fires before TDC, back & forth.
I'm almost embarrassed to ask this question! Timing?
Click to expand...
That does sound impossible. Only one points and one points cam lobe on the cam. The points have to do the same thing every 360 degrees.
Are you just using a simple test light to see when the points break? Maybe something off about the way you're using the test light.

It has to be something real simple.
I think the only thing that can get goofed up is to misread the mark on the cam, or the crank, and have it chained to the crank out of sync (like 180 degrees out).

When in doubt (happens to me a lot), I remove both plugs, so I can see the pistons at TDC, and remove all tappet covers and loosen all the adjusters to the max so I can rotate everything without fear of valves hitting piston tops. I know that soon after the spark (points break open) the exhaust valve must begin to open. If not, then the cam is out of sync with the crank.
I don't think that this is the case because you had it running and I don't think it would even run if the cam wasn't synced to the crank.
If common sense is so common, why can't I find it always?
 
Ok. Wouldn't it be nice to have a lift, clear uncorrected vision and bright lights? Had to get down on all fours with a paint marker and rotate the crank to prove my questionable observation. Of all things I've lost in life, I miss my mind the most.

Next step to check valve adjustment again. Agreed about common sense.
 
tomeben said:
I’m learning a new kind of patience
Click to expand...
I hear that!
ballbearian said:
Don't forget to pull both spark plugs and clamp the throttle wide open, choke open too.

I had a weird bad coil on my Dream that checked out fine with a meter and resistances, it even started and idled fine, but pooped out in the mid throttle area when riding. The ignition had been left on too many times and it had overheated and had a partial internal melt down.
I've never replaced a 6volt coil on a Benly. I had ordered a dual wire 6volt coil from 4into1 but haven't tried it. Not sure if it has the correct resistance and haven't found a spec anywhere as to the original value. If that 4into1 isn't good, then I suppose using two single wire types (like for a CT90) might work. Unknown territory.
Click to expand...
Plugs emit weak spark. I will order another coil. Coil is 63 years old, another gamble lost.
Thanks for suggestions!
 
Still pondering no run/bad run condition. While waiting for new coil and incidentally, taking videos of the current spark with original coil to compare to new spark with new coil, I went through the bike again as if haunted by guilt.
Valves adjust exactly as directed by manual.
Fresh 87 octane fuel
Confirm gaps of points and plugs
Clean points (just in case) again
Spliced power wire with fresh wire to the points (old wire frayed)
Carburetor cleaned-clean as new-passages blown out. Confirmed free air passage
Carburetor float slightly adjusted to meet manual measurements.
Compression measured at 125# (with old gauge held against the spark plug hole with gorilla force)

One note. Spark advance setting weird.
If advanced clockwise, engine starts and chokes when throttle up. Idles OK
If reversed counterclockwise engine will not start. Nothing.

One would think adjusting spark advance would affect engine performance but not go-no go.

Back to timing?IMG_5566 6 5 25 run bad.jpg
 
Actually, it makes sense. It needs to be 5 degrees advanced to set static and also idle. The red F mark is 5 BTDC and the black mark is TDC, only used for tappet adjustment. Indeed, it may not start if retarded to 0TDC (black mark).

It's been awhile since I pulled out a spare 12volt to power my stroboscopic timing light and observe both idle timing and full advance (45BTDC). I can't remember if the rotors are marked for 45BTDC, but they should be.

The poor running may not be timing but coil issues or float level or jetting.
 
Ok Thanks again. Before I tear into the engine, I will get the new coil installed. Jetting "should" be ok, but I may need to check numbers again IF the coil replacement is not the answer.
Only one CA95 gave me fits in the past and the issue turned out the cam lobe was 180 off. 180 degree off cam lobe gave shotgun backfires, so I know the cam lobe on this bike is correct.
 
Installed my new coil from 4 in 1. Coil works well. I had to drill one new hole to fit its frame. Spark appears to be better, and the bike started promptly with a little choke. I'm sure 85F day helped. The bike still chokes when throttling up.
I decided to go the jetting route. I had an original throttle cable needle in my parts drawer. I already put a kit in this carb and used the throttle needle supplied with the kit. So, I thought, what the hay, what can it hurt to install the thinner original throttle needle?
The thinner throttle needle made a difference.
Next step is to set the clip on a different setting. I randomly picked middle setting.
Maybe, just maybe I bought the wrong carb kit. I chose the kit based on the bowel gasket. The carb I'm using is an original early carb for the 62. Perhaps I'm smitten again by the early style CA95.IMG_5587 needle.jpgIMG_5586 coil hole.jpg
 
Congrats on the progress.

Glad the new coil is working out. What brand or where did you get it from?

Original needles are the best. Next would be float level, for me. Changing too many things at once causes confusion and not knowing what works, for me.
 
I bought the coil from https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=191838039837&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2553941.m570.l1313
It's an EMGLO (I think I got it right) from 4 into 1 off Ebay.

Float level good. I touched every part of this bike right down to the speedometer. My "failures" overshadowed many small successes, and I also gambled on stuff I knew better to replace but thought why not try to reuse?
I also assumed all CA95's were pretty much the same. Wrong. BTW I found a nice set of chrome tank side panels. They are not perfect, but nicer than the originals that came with the bike.

Hopefully I will get the needle setting right. I have enjoyed writing about my journey.
 
Spokes said:
I bought the coil from https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=191838039837&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2553941.m570.l1313
It's an EMGLO (I think I got it right) from 4 into 1 off Ebay.

Float level good. I touched every part of this bike right down to the speedometer. My "failures" overshadowed many small successes, and I also gambled on stuff I knew better to replace but thought why not try to reuse?
I also assumed all CA95's were pretty much the same. Wrong. BTW I found a nice set of chrome tank side panels. They are not perfect, but nicer than the originals that came with the bike.

Hopefully I will get the needle setting right. I have enjoyed writing about my journey.
Click to expand...
Thanks Spokes. Good to know they will work. I wasn't sure that the 1 ohm rating would be right, but as a 6volt it must be Ok, I just don't have a good electrical understanding. Ebay says I already bought one awhile ago, probably for Charles or my Benly, I'm all set.
I wouldn't term your setbacks as failures, but success opportunities. I've enjoyed and learned plenty from this project.
 
ballbearian said:
I wasn't sure that the 1 ohm rating would be right, but as a 6volt it must be Ok, I just don't have a good electrical understanding
Click to expand...
I checked the ohm reading at 2 and the original coil at 2.3, but I'm with you about electrical understanding specialty if readings are correct.
I'm back on the jet trail. The original throttle needle made a difference, and the center clip setting works, but she still won't throttle up smoothly.
I came across a 1985 VT700 Shadow back in Georgia 2017. New custom jets made her purr and throttle up was amazing. I got lucky and found the same place on eBay that made custom jets exactly to your bike, year, mods and even elevation. Honda CA 95 Benly 150 cc Twin 6Sigma Custom Carburetor Stage 1-3 Jet Kit. will report back once received and installed.
 
I hope you can now rule out any electrical from your carb issues. I'm doing good just to clean carbs and get the float level right. Even though these little bikes are pretty simple, I've had to do the basics more than once several times. That said, I hope the brown bike runs as good as it did last season, it will pull up to over 60mph very well. Charles white one struggles at over 50mph, so I may be on the jet trail with you. I might up his main from 95 to 100. All using the middle clip notch on the stock Keihin needle, marked 18401.

As always, it's fun sharing the 'swill of victory and the agony of the feet'.
 
Back in 2012 I built a CA95 from scratch. Every part sourced. Bored the cylinders. The bike ran perfect. (this bike is giving me fits) Here's the vid. https://studio.youtube.com/video/OYgEHYxlqqM/edit My ride around my then neighborhood.
This build vid is my performance goal for the 62 and an example of sweet running CA95.
You point out another mystery referring to Charles bike struggling to top 50 mph and your bike exceeds 60 mph. So maybe jets is another clue or the answer. Middle notch on the stock Keihn needle works well for me so far.
If Charles is using an aftermarket throttle needle, I have an extra original needle in my parts drawer. It's yours if you think it might help with Charles bike performance.
 
I think his bike has all original brass. It actually ran better with throttle backed off to about 4/5 full. It also has some vintage Florida Cycle Supply aftermarket mufflers that do have baffling partition in the internal structure. I haven't played around with them much.
 
I received my jet kit today. Wrong jets. Jets for the CA or CB160 according to the parts blowup supplied with the "kit". So back it goes for refund.
But I found something I overlooked when disassembling the carburetor again. I had a blocked jet as shown. I did not install the new one supplied with the kit.
I'm a little shy about unscrewing deep jets in these soft carburetors especially when I get them in rough shape. Luckly the jet unscrewed without incident. Blocked solid.

The bike runs better with the new jet and she's going to get put back together to ride. Maybe a few miles on her bones will help.IMG_5599 jet.jpg
 
Sadly, no improvement. I'm going to park this project for the short term and give deep thought as to continue to wrench, walk away or part out the bike.
I appreciate all who have followed so far. I have to say that this is the 1st bike that I have failed to make good.
 
Darn, I thought you said it seemed better. The center hole in a #35 idle jet is really tiny, a high E guitar string is tight. I've also used a really fine bristle from a wire brush. You probably already got that done.

There must be some partial or complete blockage in these tiny 3 way passages.

Forgive me for running through my way of clearing the idle passages in the carb body; First remove idle adjustment screw then idle jet. now there are 3 connecting holes to the common passages. I cover two of them with my finger then use a rubber tipped compressor blow gun with a tiny (2mm) hole. The third hole is in the floor of the carb throat, next to the edge of where the slide comes down. I can carefully get my blow gun on this hole and alternating covering the jet hole or the adjustment screw hole, you can feel, or hear the air blowing through. Then I cover the throat hole with finger and blow from the jet hole and screw hole, alternating my finger over one or the other.

Without a compressor this can still be done with the thin flexible tube on the carb spray can. Wear safety glasses, no joke. A 100psi compressor or a new can of spray can be a formidable weapon.

Victory awaits those who refuse to give up.
 
I'm pretty sure this is a fuel issue. She starts and idles really nice. Hit the throttle and she sounds like an 80-year-old sailor who started smoking in the crib.
I'm glad I don't live near a quarry or a canyon. Yesterday the bike would have been at the bottom, thus the need to walk away for a while.
I appreciate your instruction about cleaning the carb and I have gone through the carb and used compressed air, guitar string, bright light, solvent and ultra-sonic cleaning.
Alas I did miss the one little jet and thought I had a "that's it!" moment. When I calm down, I will pull the carb again and go through it once again. Thanks for your response!
 
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