Yeah - I got out into much deeper water than intended overall - the front end idea was a slippery slope that escalated rather quickly.. With zero "stock" wiring apart from the sensor wires I figured some planning was in order, lest I end up with bowl of spaghetti shoved under the seat.
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Stage 4: Even your friends and family say you need help…
- Thread starter EzPete
- Start date
Well. Here’s a first.
Finally got the replacement thermostat so I can out the cooling system on and have the engine ready to hang.
Small problem.
I have straight up lost the radiator.
When I break the bike down, everything gets bagged, tagged and put into bins to be cleaned/insoected.
Cleaned/painted/ready to install goes in the cabinet
New/bulk stuff goes in the new order bin in the first picture.
No radiator.
That means either it got lumped in with the recycling run or somehow sorted into the CX box in the attic.
Some words have been thrown about.
Finally got the replacement thermostat so I can out the cooling system on and have the engine ready to hang.
Small problem.
I have straight up lost the radiator.
When I break the bike down, everything gets bagged, tagged and put into bins to be cleaned/insoected.
Cleaned/painted/ready to install goes in the cabinet
New/bulk stuff goes in the new order bin in the first picture.
No radiator.
That means either it got lumped in with the recycling run or somehow sorted into the CX box in the attic.
Some words have been thrown about.
Well. Hoarding strikes again. In my previous effort to purge a bunch of “unneeded stuff” I stashed the GL radiator with the spare CX 500A radiator, which will never be used as it doesn’t clear the CX 500C tank I have. In short, I out organized myself.
Crisis averted, multiple radiators were there to choose from, somehow more radiators than bikes exist - they must come from the same breeding stock as carb bodies and wheels.
Engine complete. Timing set, valves adjusted.
Just have hoses and a pressure test to do on the cooling system - along with settling the internal debate on if I’m going to shroud the radiator or stick with the minimalist look.
Ok. On to engineering and fabbing Rearsets,
mounting the new rotors when they get here,
cross my fingers that 1MM was enough give clearance for the pads and finish final fabrication tweaks on the wheel spacers.
Repair carb insulators with the SCI kit
Fabricate a custom length clutch cable
Retrofit the fire blade rear shock in places of the XS650 shock
Mount new tires
Hope that someday the headlight and speedo show up from speedmotoco to finish electrical
That’s like 45 minutes plus commercials on the resto mod shows - shouldn’t take but an afternoon…
Crisis averted, multiple radiators were there to choose from, somehow more radiators than bikes exist - they must come from the same breeding stock as carb bodies and wheels.
Engine complete. Timing set, valves adjusted.
Just have hoses and a pressure test to do on the cooling system - along with settling the internal debate on if I’m going to shroud the radiator or stick with the minimalist look.
Ok. On to engineering and fabbing Rearsets,
mounting the new rotors when they get here,
cross my fingers that 1MM was enough give clearance for the pads and finish final fabrication tweaks on the wheel spacers.
Repair carb insulators with the SCI kit
Fabricate a custom length clutch cable
Retrofit the fire blade rear shock in places of the XS650 shock
Mount new tires
Hope that someday the headlight and speedo show up from speedmotoco to finish electrical
That’s like 45 minutes plus commercials on the resto mod shows - shouldn’t take but an afternoon…
Glad you found it, I suspected it just briefly got lost in the broad scope of all your spares.
That's something I'll never have to worry about...
Pretty much stuck on a few ends due to the vagaries of USPS shipments.
So. Time to finish the rough in on electrical. Once I get the headlight someday I can finish out the head unit and wrap the harness.
So. Time to finish the rough in on electrical. Once I get the headlight someday I can finish out the head unit and wrap the harness.
Needless to say. I fully understand now why this conversion is not done often, and never done this way.
There’s essentially 1.5-2mm of spare space in getting that wheel centered. That was a lot of back and forth with filing down spacers and mashing up parts from 4 different bikes.
But we’ve got a dual disc comstar-adjacent front wheel mounted to a 929RR front suspension, grafted onto a GL500.
And. Thanks to some light wall adhesive shrink tubing, the completely irreplaceable GL carb insulators are back in action. Chipped off as much of the two layers of gunked on permatex that were supposed to be the “fix”.
Getting close for the dry fit stuff to be complete…
Mocked up the headlight, checked all the electrical. Got power where it needs it and no fuses popping so that means there’s no power where it’s not needed.
Front spacers are finally done after slowly filing down each side one at a time to get the spacing even when the axle is torqued down, so the front fork/wheel/brakes adaption is complete - just needs some prettying up and the tire mounted and brake lines.
Mocked up the headlight, checked all the electrical. Got power where it needs it and no fuses popping so that means there’s no power where it’s not needed.
Front spacers are finally done after slowly filing down each side one at a time to get the spacing even when the axle is torqued down, so the front fork/wheel/brakes adaption is complete - just needs some prettying up and the tire mounted and brake lines.
Decided to do a little block wrestling tonight and worked the engine into place to start the next round of test fitting: Rearsets.
Working linear motion into a rotation is interesting. Takes a whole ton of exact adjustment - unfortunately right when I thought I had it, the shift lever completely jammed inside the engine case.
I’m not sure it’s possible to get that linkage in a more inaccessible spot. This means dropping the engine again, removing the water pump, entire back panel, ignition and then figuring out what jammed and how.
Numerous choice words were used.
Working linear motion into a rotation is interesting. Takes a whole ton of exact adjustment - unfortunately right when I thought I had it, the shift lever completely jammed inside the engine case.
I’m not sure it’s possible to get that linkage in a more inaccessible spot. This means dropping the engine again, removing the water pump, entire back panel, ignition and then figuring out what jammed and how.
Numerous choice words were used.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Lucky you, don't have to drain anything.
I didn't think about that shift shaft arrangement, quite the odd couple of linkages in one. Is that a piece designed for the CX/GL engines? Or did you fab that?
Fortunately the engine is easy to take in and out with support from underneath and the rad normally can be left intact on the motor. Still a bugger to have to pull that rear cover again. I am personally not a fan of retromods, yet I really like what I see here Pete, you have done some excellent work to date.
Thankfully. Getting the last of the oil out of the sump is a mess on these.
I was going to fab this exact setup, but ran across a steal on a set from Slipstream Cycles, so I thought I’d save the time.
The whole shift linkage mechanism on the GL/CX series is kind of shaky. Uses this weird toothed lever and a tiny spring that got stretched and misaligned.
Thanks. I figured this thing was so far gone that I wouldn’t offend the restoration gods if I went wild on it.
Actually got it pulled down and fixed last night. That little spring on the back of the shift spindle/tooth lever thing had stretched and allowed those two pieces to misalign.
Honestly, it’s the getting the engine back in with the radiator attached that’s the real pain.
Ok. Engine back in. Rearsets hooked up. All the dry fit is right about done.
Time to find an upholstery shop to do the seat cover, the tedious task of wrapping and hiding wires as much as possible, and figure out the exhaust - I’m really hoping to be able to sneak some 2” sportster mufflers right below the rearsets - they do sound pretty good on the smaller cc engine.
Time to find an upholstery shop to do the seat cover, the tedious task of wrapping and hiding wires as much as possible, and figure out the exhaust - I’m really hoping to be able to sneak some 2” sportster mufflers right below the rearsets - they do sound pretty good on the smaller cc engine.
Keep chipping away… and keep putting off the jobs I just really don’t want to do.
Got started on one of them - dry fitting the carbs and taking measurements for the baffled airbox/cleaner to replace the stock box. Thankfully, I saved the original so I can reuse the manifold side.
Got the rear brake linkage with the rearsets sorted, adjusted and the brake lever set. I do need to figure out the rear brake switch though. Stock had a little tab for the spring which won’t work with the new layout without hanging off the outside of the frame.
Clutch linkage took quite a bit more work. Hopefully it won’t take too much in the way of adjustment to fit the final ergonomics- there is a very specific range of motion on the forward part of the knuckle that will effectively up/downshift, which really limits the adjustment range.
She’s come quite a ways from the starting point.
Doubt I’ll get this one done during this season maybe after the peak heat cools off later.
Intake and exhaust, cables and a seat cover, mount and balance tires.
Oh. And front brake lines. Can’t forget those.
Got started on one of them - dry fitting the carbs and taking measurements for the baffled airbox/cleaner to replace the stock box. Thankfully, I saved the original so I can reuse the manifold side.
Got the rear brake linkage with the rearsets sorted, adjusted and the brake lever set. I do need to figure out the rear brake switch though. Stock had a little tab for the spring which won’t work with the new layout without hanging off the outside of the frame.
Clutch linkage took quite a bit more work. Hopefully it won’t take too much in the way of adjustment to fit the final ergonomics- there is a very specific range of motion on the forward part of the knuckle that will effectively up/downshift, which really limits the adjustment range.
She’s come quite a ways from the starting point.
Doubt I’ll get this one done during this season maybe after the peak heat cools off later.
Intake and exhaust, cables and a seat cover, mount and balance tires.
Oh. And front brake lines. Can’t forget those.
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Welp. Obviously my PVC mockup was flawed somewhere.
Looks clean - just can’t shift.
Sportster mufflers. May end up on the CX. They’ll fit the stock shifter/pegs. Not the Rear sets.
Damn. Really liked this look, Delvic 2-1 might be the only other option unless I get custom headers done to drop the downpipe about 2”.
Looks clean - just can’t shift.
Sportster mufflers. May end up on the CX. They’ll fit the stock shifter/pegs. Not the Rear sets.
Damn. Really liked this look, Delvic 2-1 might be the only other option unless I get custom headers done to drop the downpipe about 2”.
Still working on exhaust - leaning the 2-1 since I can’t get my straight pipe idea to work.
Figured I’d start work on the cables. Shortened the throttle cable to account for the lower bars, but the fun one with these CX/GL’s is the clutch cable. There’s nothing short enough in the open market that doesn’t end up routed super weird. What I did discover is that the triumph thruxton uses a 70 degree bend clutch cable which solves the routing side. Trimmed down about 6” and you’ve got yourself the perfect 24” clutch cable.
View attachment IMG_1085.jpeg
View attachment IMG_1084.jpeg
Got it all dry fit.and tested. Waiting on the carb clamps I swore I had already ordered, so time to solve airflow with the stock carbs. I’ve been toying with this idea for a while to make a more compact intake that mimics the stock airbox - with the goal being to get a look somewhere between pods and the complete massive CARB rebreather intake. Ideally this would retain the same jetting and performance with stock carbs.
So I retained the intake tubes and flipped the intake side of the stock inside out to get a filtered airspace, the correct manifold length and the same filtered air intake surface area.
Some leftover ABS, some random screen metal I found and some uni filter foam.
Concept test version is done. I’ll use this for tweaking the idea then print the permanent version
Creeping along. Weathers been too nice lately so I’ve been poking about for some decent rides around here - not nearly as scenic as some of y’all’s surroundings and my last fun rural backroads now has a housing development going in.
Figured I’d start work on the cables. Shortened the throttle cable to account for the lower bars, but the fun one with these CX/GL’s is the clutch cable. There’s nothing short enough in the open market that doesn’t end up routed super weird. What I did discover is that the triumph thruxton uses a 70 degree bend clutch cable which solves the routing side. Trimmed down about 6” and you’ve got yourself the perfect 24” clutch cable.
View attachment IMG_1085.jpeg
View attachment IMG_1084.jpeg
Got it all dry fit.and tested. Waiting on the carb clamps I swore I had already ordered, so time to solve airflow with the stock carbs. I’ve been toying with this idea for a while to make a more compact intake that mimics the stock airbox - with the goal being to get a look somewhere between pods and the complete massive CARB rebreather intake. Ideally this would retain the same jetting and performance with stock carbs.
So I retained the intake tubes and flipped the intake side of the stock inside out to get a filtered airspace, the correct manifold length and the same filtered air intake surface area.
Some leftover ABS, some random screen metal I found and some uni filter foam.
Concept test version is done. I’ll use this for tweaking the idea then print the permanent version
Creeping along. Weathers been too nice lately so I’ve been poking about for some decent rides around here - not nearly as scenic as some of y’all’s surroundings and my last fun rural backroads now has a housing development going in.
Progress, they call it... I'm watching progress moving closer to us in the last few years too. Hard to imagine when you're dead in the middle of two small towns with only 10,000 to 15,000 population each about 30 miles apart, but the the gaps in between are slowly closing. At least the rural roads around here are spread out wide east and west of the general area and we're partially surrounded by state forests.
One hurdle at a time. She did get some new shoes - front at a 110/90/18 came out a bit wider than I anticipated relative to my 100/90’s on the other bikes. Still fits well and if I never have to pull that front wheel in the next two months that would still be too soon.
Lower profile 130/80 on the rear gives enough clearance for the suspension travel.
Permanent mount for the carbs/mono-mega-pod
Arts and crafts class for sewing a new seat cover - that could be interesting.
Exhaust.
Clean up and stow all the wiring.
That’s it. That’s the list.
That front end was an undertaking.
Although it does look like I can take off a little on the steering stop and get a little more room there.
Lower profile 130/80 on the rear gives enough clearance for the suspension travel.
Permanent mount for the carbs/mono-mega-pod
Arts and crafts class for sewing a new seat cover - that could be interesting.
Exhaust.
Clean up and stow all the wiring.
That’s it. That’s the list.
That front end was an undertaking.
Although it does look like I can take off a little on the steering stop and get a little more room there.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Looking real pretty, getting up dressed up and ready to go,
It's all coming together. Very nice job!
Went with the Delkevic 2-1 option for the exhaust. Incidentally, this exhaust is $100 cheaper ordered direct from them than you’ll find on eBay, etc. no tax, free shipping.
It took forever of dry fitting and wrangling to realize I needed to take 4mm off the kickstand bracket to get everything to line up and pop together.
Looks clean. I do with they had gone with a right side exit instead of left side - there’s a lot going on right there with the sidestand, center stand, shift linkage, etc.
But finally not having to spend hours upon hours of fab work made this a nice little morning project.
It took forever of dry fitting and wrangling to realize I needed to take 4mm off the kickstand bracket to get everything to line up and pop together.
Looks clean. I do with they had gone with a right side exit instead of left side - there’s a lot going on right there with the sidestand, center stand, shift linkage, etc.
But finally not having to spend hours upon hours of fab work made this a nice little morning project.
Couldn’t help myself. I was supposed to be cleaning the garage up and decided I’d rather start the GL.
Son of a motherless goat…
Looks like the engine is coming out and some kind of thicker gasket is going to be needed, or build up this corner with a layer of permatex and let it dry on the gasket before installing.
And the left carb just dumped fuel from the overflow, so float is stuck or the tube is cracked and I missed it - or the needle just isn’t seating.
It’s always something on that first test.
Son of a motherless goat…
Looks like the engine is coming out and some kind of thicker gasket is going to be needed, or build up this corner with a layer of permatex and let it dry on the gasket before installing.
And the left carb just dumped fuel from the overflow, so float is stuck or the tube is cracked and I missed it - or the needle just isn’t seating.
It’s always something on that first test.
Ugh. At least you've had some practice... aside from that new development, things look good.
That sucks. After all the work you put into this you deserve better.
Man. I was getting all excited too - felt like all the hard stuff was in the rear view. Oh well, half the fun of these is the build anyway.
Life's not fun without a setback or 20. At least I'll be unable to ignore the seat cover project now. DSS is a 2 week wait on an OEM gasket for that back panel. I'm a little ticked at myself for not noticing the obvious warp from the side - those back panels are a PITA to get off if the gasket is baked on there, and you can clearly see where an attempt to pry it apart was made.
I'm more concerned about the carbs - hopefully just a stuck needle valve.
Saw this 1981 CX500 on FB marketplace. Only one pic and description was "excellent condition" . Seller was asking $9500 cdn.
Similar front end...
Similar front end...
They've got some serious coin dropped into that build. That's the Cognito Moto GSXR front end conversion kit - little bit north of 2K USD not including the donor forks, calipers, rotors or tires. 1300 USD rear hub conversion. It's basically their entire catalog... really nice stuff, and he's got at least $5K in just front and rear wheels, but that's the "Honey, I listed it but nobody is buying right now" price. I looked long and hard at that route, but the price tag was really hefty.
Clean build without that mummy wrap and the weird fog light - and I see he ran into the same cable routing issues. I never thought about going skyward with the first bend.
Well. A bit of a head scratcher. The advantage of having freshly installed gaskets fail immediately is that you get a real clear picture of what the issue was.
Both surfaces were totally clean, unscarred - ran the feeler gauge test with a straightedge and nothing warped. Just gasket not gasket-ing.
Still probably going to go with a layer of gasket sealant - may the bike outlive me before I have to deal with it.
Both surfaces were totally clean, unscarred - ran the feeler gauge test with a straightedge and nothing warped. Just gasket not gasket-ing.
Still probably going to go with a layer of gasket sealant - may the bike outlive me before I have to deal with it.
Yeah, it really doesn't look damaged or distorted in the area. Unless you have a better sealant in mind, I'd be using a fair amount of Hondabond on both sides of that gasket.
Stayed with a good layer of Hondabond. Thin coat on each side with about an hour of cure. Made sure to get the excess off the edges. Sitting full for the past couple hours and nary a drop.
All that for a failed gasket. I’m wondering if it had to do with sitting there dry for so long.
Well. Onto the leaky carb(s).
kbongos
Veteran Member
You got to love the easy ones.
Yeah. That “inside” one on the VB carbs with the drain screw between the two got me. O-ring had a little bounce to it and just didn’t snug it down.
Gaskets all back to gasketing. I swear hanging that engine by yourself does not get any easier no matter how many times you do it. Particularly when you don’t feel like taking anything other than the 6 mounting bolts out.
Waiting on the front brake lines, couple of little things to solve - really trying to save the center stand, but it’s interfering with the exhaust by about 3/4”. Thinking I’ll just shorten the foot lever piece of it and call it a day. Other one is popped fuse for the horn. Super annoying but non-essential I guess.
Newring the finish line. Might even get a shakedown ride before it gets to the gades-level inferno - assuming I can solve this puzzle with a skill set Ill-suited for that very purpose.
Waiting on the front brake lines, couple of little things to solve - really trying to save the center stand, but it’s interfering with the exhaust by about 3/4”. Thinking I’ll just shorten the foot lever piece of it and call it a day. Other one is popped fuse for the horn. Super annoying but non-essential I guess.
Newring the finish line. Might even get a shakedown ride before it gets to the gades-level inferno - assuming I can solve this puzzle with a skill set Ill-suited for that very purpose.
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popping fuse is going to be a fun one. I’ve got a pin crossed in a connector somewhere.
Circuit 6 is supposed to supply power for the horn and headlight. Without the engine grounded or the starter connected, fuse doesn’t blow.
Connect everything there and it pops.. headlight still works regardless.
And everything checked out with a voltmeter - until I connected the coolant sensor.
Someone fed the gremlins after midnight.
Circuit 6 is supposed to supply power for the horn and headlight. Without the engine grounded or the starter connected, fuse doesn’t blow.
Connect everything there and it pops.. headlight still works regardless.
And everything checked out with a voltmeter - until I connected the coolant sensor.
Someone fed the gremlins after midnight.
Can’t see the tripped breaker light when you cover it up!
Found the issue actually. Flipped the pins on the horn switch
Test fit the seat cover. Might be back to the drawing board here - seat ended up way narrower and flatter than I intended so maybe another layer of padding on the next attempt.
.
kbongos
Veteran Member
Looks great @EzPete, I like the looks of this new creation, got to love chrome and black with a hint of blue. Somehow you have turned this old machine into something new. And two thumbs up for knowing how to operate a sewing machine. I've got one and know how to use it, it's real basic as are my skills with it, but it's just another tool in the tool chest. Using it on thick seat material has got to be challenging.
Here’s where it’s at now. Unfortunately all that is coming from the left cylinder only - nothing but spark on the right side, so there’s still some fuel delivery challenges to sort out.
Slides on that side function perfectly when revved so it’s pulling vacuum, just not pulling fuel at the same time.
Unfortunately I keep getting to it too late in the day to do anything that involves making the appropriate amount of noise to further troubleshoot so I’ll have to content myself with a refresher on the carb section of the FSM - must have something out of adjustment here.
Pulled air cleaner off, started bike, let it idle until zero choke, rigged a mirror on a magnet under the seat so I could see the slide rise with the needle as you increase RPM.
Similar to the old “blow through the passages” test when you assemble a carb to hear the slide rise and fall easily (I guess it’s technically a piston, not a slide but same function)
kbongos
Veteran Member
I see, you do show it too in that video clip, with the back of the carbs all open, naked and all, and available for the world to see. I'll have to try that and see if that can work with my airbox filter removed. Maybe using mirror or a little camera. Any diagnostic tricks are welcome with these bikes that are so hard to diagnose. Everything being so closely related and tied together.
Hell yeah. Couple of buddies are coming up for the weekend - might be able to get all three out for a ride.
Annoying exhaust leak is just the Y joint in the 2-1 exhaust that needs to be sealed.
Got them to balance although my vacuum gauge decided to stop guaging on one side so it took 4X as long.
Onto brakes and final assembly… or at least as final as it gets.
Annoying exhaust leak is just the Y joint in the 2-1 exhaust that needs to be sealed.
Got them to balance although my vacuum gauge decided to stop guaging on one side so it took 4X as long.
Onto brakes and final assembly… or at least as final as it gets.
Maybe it's just the audio or the exhaust, but it still seems like it's only running on one.
I think that’s the exhaust. Right pipe (was the problem one) is getting hot and now it’s starting to get some of that “not double walled header” toasty coloring.
It’s also not popping like crazy like it was when it was pulling unburnt fuel through and igniting in the exhaust.
Every stinking time I think it’s moving forward. Front brakes just will not build pressure.
Vacuum bled. Gravity bled. Nada. Betting on bad master cylinder. It’s not leaving out the back but it just must not be sealing in the bore.
Vacuum bled. Gravity bled. Nada. Betting on bad master cylinder. It’s not leaving out the back but it just must not be sealing in the bore.
Post shakedown ride:
Nothing major. Tiny bit of drag on the right outer disc - you can hear that “whish whish” sound at a roll. Caliper wasn’t hot, nor was the rotor so calling that a win.
Zero running issues apart from needing to tone down the idle speed a tad after the first few miles. Luckily the little adjuster knob is still intact on these carbs so that’s a zero tools on the road job. Power was pretty clean through the band. Didn’t hammer too hard since things are still breaking in and want to make sure gaskets are all holding, etc. probably could use a longer throw throttle. It’s got a short throw tube on there right now since I was pretty tight on adjustment room and it’s kind of twitchy - with a pretty decent pull around 6K RPM. Might need to toy with the advance settings and see if that makes any kind of difference.
Steering radius in tight areas leaves A LOT to be desired. Tight right turns take a bit of planning. That is going to take some thought. I need to measure a few other tanks and see.
It’s certainly a different ride than the CX or the CB. Between the Fireblade front and the XV 650 rear shock it’s pretty dang stiff.
Also need to trim the kickstand down or bend it out slightly. With the bike so much lower it’s really sketchy unless you find a slope and kind of lean it downhill.
No leaks, no dings, nothing detonated!
Nothing major. Tiny bit of drag on the right outer disc - you can hear that “whish whish” sound at a roll. Caliper wasn’t hot, nor was the rotor so calling that a win.
Zero running issues apart from needing to tone down the idle speed a tad after the first few miles. Luckily the little adjuster knob is still intact on these carbs so that’s a zero tools on the road job. Power was pretty clean through the band. Didn’t hammer too hard since things are still breaking in and want to make sure gaskets are all holding, etc. probably could use a longer throw throttle. It’s got a short throw tube on there right now since I was pretty tight on adjustment room and it’s kind of twitchy - with a pretty decent pull around 6K RPM. Might need to toy with the advance settings and see if that makes any kind of difference.
Steering radius in tight areas leaves A LOT to be desired. Tight right turns take a bit of planning. That is going to take some thought. I need to measure a few other tanks and see.
It’s certainly a different ride than the CX or the CB. Between the Fireblade front and the XV 650 rear shock it’s pretty dang stiff.
Also need to trim the kickstand down or bend it out slightly. With the bike so much lower it’s really sketchy unless you find a slope and kind of lean it downhill.
No leaks, no dings, nothing detonated!