ballbearian
Veteran Member
Looks good. That's a pretty big box you built. What kind of smuggling are you into?
-
Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.
AD
Stage 4: Even your friends and family say you need help…
- Thread starter EzPete
- Start date
Haha! Actually. It’s a dual layer.
CCW lockbox bolts to this plate from the underside for those places entry is not permitted. Electronics on top.
Shooting for a profile like this (obviously with a flat line at the base.)
Gives room for plenty of padding. Not looking to sit on a skateboard.
CCW lockbox bolts to this plate from the underside for those places entry is not permitted. Electronics on top.
Shooting for a profile like this (obviously with a flat line at the base.)
Gives room for plenty of padding. Not looking to sit on a skateboard.
Pun intended, I assume?
Amen. My little aftermarket seat is not much better than a lightly padded skateboard, so I get it.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Good use of space. Comfort isn't always padding.
A little late Xmas day. Delayed goodies started showing up.
313mm rotors next to the stock ones. Wild that the 929RR rotors are lighter.
And continuing with the brakes. Rebuild kit showed up. Feels solid. I think I’ve got a leftover hose around somewhere I could hook to a caliper and pressure test but I reassembled the refinished controls and stuck them in place.
Had to go through inspection. Noted in the report was a slightly floppy clutch lever. Cable tension would keep it aligned but I may need to sleeve/shim the pivot bolt or just live with a little axial play.
Headlight/speedo from speed moto and the stinking thrust washer are still delayed, so the engine completion waits patiently.
Since other concerns in the report questioned the need to retain seven complete wheels, while one bike needs wheels, I suppose I should turn my attention in that direction, so measuring a bearing spacer, machining that and additional wheel spacers from the 929’s original spacers is moving up the board - while I work on turning my caveman drawings into CAD files that I can send off to be CNC cut for rotor adapters.
313mm rotors next to the stock ones. Wild that the 929RR rotors are lighter.
And continuing with the brakes. Rebuild kit showed up. Feels solid. I think I’ve got a leftover hose around somewhere I could hook to a caliper and pressure test but I reassembled the refinished controls and stuck them in place.
Had to go through inspection. Noted in the report was a slightly floppy clutch lever. Cable tension would keep it aligned but I may need to sleeve/shim the pivot bolt or just live with a little axial play.
Headlight/speedo from speed moto and the stinking thrust washer are still delayed, so the engine completion waits patiently.
Since other concerns in the report questioned the need to retain seven complete wheels, while one bike needs wheels, I suppose I should turn my attention in that direction, so measuring a bearing spacer, machining that and additional wheel spacers from the 929’s original spacers is moving up the board - while I work on turning my caveman drawings into CAD files that I can send off to be CNC cut for rotor adapters.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Impressive work for the adaption. You must be a serious daydreamer.
LOL... that inspector is probably smarter than many you'd meet.
I learned long ago that most of the time you don't actually need to shim the lever on the pivot bolt, you can just tighten the pivot bolt a turn or two and then re-tighten the nut on the bottom. Most of the time there's enough depth between the upper and lower halves of the perch that the pivot bolt will tighten into the assembly (before the shoulder on the bolt reaches the bottom) and create more "pinch" when you tighten the nut on the bottom, effectively reducing the lever floppiness. You can sometimes go too far and the lever gets tight enough that it won't move freely, so go a little at a time.
Stop confusing me with CAD (cardboard aided design) and CAD (the real thing).
Those rotors are gonna wrinkle the pavement in front of you.
Well, I had to use cardboard first at least (Pressed the rotors into the cardboard to imprint for measurements so I could send the drawings to my daughter to convert to new CAD). I really wish I could find a machinist around here that you could actually take drawings to - or hell, even the parts. One of these days I'm going to break down and buy at least a benchtop lathe for smaller stuff. Aside from the rotor adapters I need to do the front wheel spacers, grind down the centering tabs in the GL front hub to fit the bearing spacer/front axle, rear shock lower mount bushing from the XS650 shock needs 3 Mil off each side. Just super simple stuff that could be easily machined but everything around here only works on plugging in a file and code and watching the machine turn.LOL... that inspector is probably smarter than many you'd meet.
I learned long ago that most of the time you don't actually need to shim the lever on the pivot bolt, you can just tighten the pivot bolt a turn or two and then re-tighten the nut on the bottom. Most of the time there's enough depth between the upper and lower halves of the perch that the pivot bolt will tighten into the assembly (before the shoulder on the bolt reaches the bottom) and create more "pinch" when you tighten the nut on the bottom, effectively reducing the lever floppiness. You can sometimes go too far and the lever gets tight enough that it won't move freely, so go a little at a time.
Stop confusing me with CAD (cardboard aided design) and CAD (the real thing).
Those rotors are gonna wrinkle the pavement in front of you.
On the rotors, I downsized the master a bit from the 929 14.8mm bore to the CX's 14mm bore to hopefully soften up the brake feel
CB450DX
Veteran Member
I do the exact same on my bike, the only thing I knew about it when I bought was that the guy had a CB750 Four, an RD80 and a GS1250 (and a GS1150 before that) and got the CB450 on a trade... The main difference is that yours has mileage, mine had a new panel with just 40kms on it.
Here in Brazil we can also check all the fines/tickets the bike received over the last 20 years... I checked and mine apparently has never received a fine from going over the speed limit, only fine/ticket it ever got was waiting more than 30 days to transfer the title of ownership after communicating it was sold back in 2006.
Cheers and great progress on the build. Where I live it's 100% summer warm as hell and as wet as possible, and back when it was Winter, I could barely bother to touch the bike since I have an open garage (roofed, but no walls) but it ain't so cold (at most 1~6C aka 33~42F), lot of respect for work being done at freezing temps.
The saga of the thrust washer continues. 8 days later and it’s currently further away than when it began its journey from Georgia. Getting every dime of that $2.99 shipping.
So, rainy day, a few episodes of Goliath left on this season- let’s do some seat shaping and get this out of the way.
With the pan already done and fit, grabbed my foam and spray adhesive and got the pieces glued down/rough shaped with a knife. Now the real fun begins. Sanding foam with 80 grit
Coming along slow but sure.
Now I get to start figuring out the variety of fitment issues with the comstars. Some rough measurements show that these could be 5MM too wide at the corners of the calipers, which means a whole host of new issues has arisen.
So, rainy day, a few episodes of Goliath left on this season- let’s do some seat shaping and get this out of the way.
With the pan already done and fit, grabbed my foam and spray adhesive and got the pieces glued down/rough shaped with a knife. Now the real fun begins. Sanding foam with 80 grit
Coming along slow but sure.
Now I get to start figuring out the variety of fitment issues with the comstars. Some rough measurements show that these could be 5MM too wide at the corners of the calipers, which means a whole host of new issues has arisen.
Attachments
ballbearian
Veteran Member
and so, it's snowing in your shop now too.
and so, it's snowing in your shop now too.
And in the house, my truck - this stuff is everywhere.
kbongos
Veteran Member
The seat is an interesting project. I wonder how you will make/buy and attach a seat cover, how you will anchor it to the bike. Will be interesting to see what you come up with.
Seat anchors are done already. Uses the factory slot in the front for a tab, and the factory support about midway through. Before putting the foam on, I drilled holes through the pan and epoxied some M6’s in place. 2 hold the tab at the front, the other two through the cross bracket, rear part is actually a pressure fit around the box.
When I’m done shaping, I’m hoping for a two piece cover, similar to the picture I posted up thread. All black with electric blue stitching and the Honda logo embroidered on the back. Tie the stripe in the tank to the brake lines and the seat for the color. Everything else is black and silver.
Great series Pete! I think there were three seasons in that series all of them excellent. His new series " Landman" now on Paramount and just wrapped up it's first season was excellent too. Highly recommend that one.
I like the background of anything Billy Bob when you’re doing jobs that just suck. I don’t know what it is about some of his monologues but it made for a much easier time sanding foam! Watched almost all of the first 5 episodes of season 3 getting gaskets off the GL land man was perfect for paint. Lay a coat, watch an episode, rotate parts. Repeat.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Put some support bumpers in the middle, under your butt, so it don't crack when you hit a bump.
I was thinking about that. I laminated a layer of screen door patch kit through the center right there, between the layers of glass mat.
I’ve got an old dry suit from the north coast surfing days that are probably well behind me now. I was going to run a piece of that under the battery, it’s 7mm, so a good strip of that should take the edge off probably.
Full bumpers would lift the seat a bit too much and skew the line.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Just support it. They all crack where the hinny is heavy.
Ah. I see what you’re saying. The seat pan sits dead flat on the plate circled here which is right about at the hips/tailbone. I was thinking the neoprene to mitigate vibration cracking
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Cool, if it can't flex, it may not crack. I just see the stock metal ones that have lost the middle support bumpers don't last long.
Dammit. First real fitment issue. I knew those forks bolted up too easily.
The distance between the calipers is 4 mm too narrow at the widest spot near the axle to clear the rims.
So now I need to find a way to gain about 9mm of real estate. Which would give 2.5 mm of clearance on the spokes - talk about zero margin for deflection or error.
Between that and adapting the comstar this front wheel is testing the OL engineering and fab skills
15mm axle to 25 42mm at hub ID /bearing race OD
Speedo delete
16mm inner spacing difference
25x42 bearings are 8/9 mm thick, factory is 13 m
Total of 26mm hub width difference at the bearing
I have a feeling there’s going to be a lot of fit, torque, test, uninstall, sand, fit, torque, test… rinse, repeat.
The distance between the calipers is 4 mm too narrow at the widest spot near the axle to clear the rims.
So now I need to find a way to gain about 9mm of real estate. Which would give 2.5 mm of clearance on the spokes - talk about zero margin for deflection or error.
Between that and adapting the comstar this front wheel is testing the OL engineering and fab skills
15mm axle to 25 42mm at hub ID /bearing race OD
Speedo delete
16mm inner spacing difference
25x42 bearings are 8/9 mm thick, factory is 13 m
Total of 26mm hub width difference at the bearing
I have a feeling there’s going to be a lot of fit, torque, test, uninstall, sand, fit, torque, test… rinse, repeat.
So the big rotor diameters puts the calipers beside the rim, and that's where the clearance issues are?
Pictures would have helped. Turns out it actually 3mm.
The interference point is between the two calipers.
Whereas the rim at that point is wider
So I’m thinking of this:
Remove 1MM off each side of these mounting points with a flat file:
Then 1MM off each spoke side here
That buys 6MM of real estate. And true desperation can take a mil off each side of the inside of the caliper itself.
I’m probably going to need a full rewatch of season one of Landman to get through this part of the project. That’s a lot of really careful grinding and filing.
Also means I’m going to need to alter the rotor adapters to account for the calipers being further out now.
Remove 1MM off each side of these mounting points with a flat file:
Then 1MM off each spoke side here
That buys 6MM of real estate. And true desperation can take a mil off each side of the inside of the caliper itself.
I’m probably going to need a full rewatch of season one of Landman to get through this part of the project. That’s a lot of really careful grinding and filing.
Also means I’m going to need to alter the rotor adapters to account for the calipers being further out now.
I like Landman, Billy Bob is a different cat but he does a lot of good roles.
But that's a lot of alterations to some pretty important stuff there, definitely make sure to move cautiously.
May have found the solution here. Front rim from the V65 Magna was also a dual disk and used a solid spoke faux reverse comstar look so it’ll still match the rear.
I’m also wondering if by some miracle to end all miracles that rotor bolt spacing is the same 110mm diameter the CBR series used. That would wildly simplify the spacer/adapter for the 929 rotors.
$25 on eBay (plus twice that much to ship) and we’ll find out.
Last edited:
Well. A little preemptive digging here and that’s a mislabeled part on Ebay. Weird it came up on a search for CX500D front wheel - looks like it may have been pulled from a 500D, but that’s a ComCast not ComStar and the six bolt rotor also isn’t a V65, which led down a lengthy model search rabbit hole all the way to the one and only six spoke, six bolt Comcast I could find. The 1983 CB1100F.
Welp, back to some more CAD tutorials
The 1100F uses a 144mm ID rotor with 166mm bolt spacing, the 929RR a 94mm with 110mm spacing.
So, in the event anyone needs rotor adapters custom made and can’t find a CNC shop that’ll take a job that small, Xometry.com will take your CAD designs, have them cut and ship them to you for about $90 each.
Just more proof that you can't ever trust eBay sellers.
Yeah. I’ve bought stuff from these guys before without any issues. I was a little curious about the dual disk because I wasn’t aware of that option on the CX series - but for $25 I figured it was worth a shot.
In the grand scheme it may work out for the better. The 18” wheel helps bring the rake/trail back closer to designed and the rotor adapters are far less complex.
Well, since you've bought from them previously I can understand why you'd trust them. And at least it wasn't an expensive mistake.
Pete that wheel on the Magna or the American CB1100F looks pretty close to the wheels used on the 1983 CB1000C which was also a Comcast and may have the specs your looking for there. The Canadian CB1100F used the Boomerang Comstar wheels in a anodized gold finish. Same ones that are on my CX650E without the gold finish.
This is an old forum that specializes in the DOHC bikes and someone may have a CB1000C wheel for you in the for sale section? Link to follow
| Sorry, lots of projects (most recently siting and setting up a tiny house and falling out of a tree - tearing my R biceps tendon off the bone) and have not been on site in quite awhile. I have tons of 1000C parts from the 4X4 exhausts, fenders, wheels to instrument cluster and shock sets, carb set tools, extra brakes and etc. Anyone for cam chain tensioiners? I still have the two black 1000C's in storage and need to move them as well. Send a note and ask. Tom B. 650 619 0366 [email protected] |
Last edited:
Thanks - it was actually that forum (well a specifically nasty thread that contained the information at least) that I found the bearing and rotor ID/OD specs on - while confirming the wheel. It looks like the 83 1100F Bal d’or and the 1000c shared a front wheel with that triple boomerang cast design. I’m thinking of figuring out a way to get a red stripe in the mix to throw a nod to that particular model’s livery.Pete that wheel on the Magna or the American CB1100F looks pretty close to the wheels used on the 1983 CB1000C which was also a Comcast and may have the specs your looking for there. The Canadian CB1100F used the Boomerang Comstar wheels in a anodized gold finish. Same ones that are on my CX650E without the gold finish.
This is an old forum that specializes in the DOHC bikes and someone may have a CB1000C wheel for you in the for sale section? Link to follow
Sorry, lots of projects (most recently siting and setting up a tiny house and falling out of a tree - tearing my R biceps tendon off the bone) and have not been on site in quite awhile. I have tons of 1000C parts from the 4X4 exhausts, fenders, wheels to instrument cluster and shock sets, carb set tools, extra brakes and etc. Anyone for cam chain tensioiners? I still have the two black 1000C's in storage and need to move them as well. Send a note and ask.
Tom B.
650 619 0366
[email protected]
Hub width appears to still be a bit of a mystery, but one I’ll have to measure regardless to land on the final adapter thickness and spacer/speedo knockout dimensions. The $25 rim gets here Friday, so hopefully I can get the final measurements over to the offshore manufacturing spot and dodge some fickle shipping restrictions. Maybe it’ll show up around the same time as the thrust washer with a case of wanderlust.
kbongos
Veteran Member
@Flyin900 - you fell out of a tree and tore bicep off bone? Ouch. I'm lucky I haven't met that fate yet. Almost took a dive recently from roof but got lucky, need to be more careful. Bro took a dive trimming trees from ladder, and had to suffer thru some rehab but is back together. You got the winter to recover.
@EzPete - You are using freecad, that's what I use for my 3d printing. Wow, yes, it takes some serious time consuming lessons, fortunately available on youtube. You got an interesting project going on with this bike Jenny.
@EzPete - You are using freecad, that's what I use for my 3d printing. Wow, yes, it takes some serious time consuming lessons, fortunately available on youtube. You got an interesting project going on with this bike Jenny.
I’m beginning to see why every one of these CBR font end conversions they keep the CBR front wheel. What a forking shirtballs of a PITA this is turning into. Like a middle school dance. One step forward, one back. Repeat.
VFR front rim came in today. Looking a little rougher than the photos but $25 is $25, then the real problem reared its head.
This thing is almost as chunky as the bike was to begin with.
Zero offset rotors.
As opposed to the 929RR rotors
With a center to center width on the calipers of 142mm. Welp, that math ain’t gonna math.
After spending an hour running down these options:
1. Convert the 78 silver comstars to dual disc, take that set from the Pirate Ship and swap them on Jenny, fab the original rotor adapters to the 5 bolt comstars, and pray I don’t run into rear wheel clearance issues with the 18” instead of the planned 16” - as that would involve complete redesign of the rear end, electronics box, seat… ugh.
2. Mill about 15mm off the standouts (12 total) on the VFR rims, fab the 6x6 adapters for the 929 rotors. Risky.
3. Original shaving plan on the original reverse Comstars.
Needless to say, if I still drank, there would have been some drinking.
So, I started thinking about custom rotors. That’s the obvious solution. Until I priced that out. Let’s call that one a goal state ideal for another timeline.
Figuring that there’s got to be a way to make this work, I set out to find a solution. FYI. If you’re ever in this particular realm of the internet, tarazon.com has rotor specs on just about every single motorcycle rotor ever made. Diameter, ID, bolt hole pattern, size, offset.
Bam. Found it. 2006 CBF600 rotors are zero offset 5MM rotors 296 diameter, I’ve got a set of CBR600 calipers that are slightly shallower than the 929 as they were made for 296’s and have the same bolt pattern and size as the 929 calipers. So a simple 5MM spacer behind the rotor gives me the offset needed to line them up exactly with zero machining of the rim.
So, back to having a conversation with my buddy Mango Jelly about polar arrays and here we have it
VFR front rim came in today. Looking a little rougher than the photos but $25 is $25, then the real problem reared its head.
This thing is almost as chunky as the bike was to begin with.
Zero offset rotors.
As opposed to the 929RR rotors
With a center to center width on the calipers of 142mm. Welp, that math ain’t gonna math.
After spending an hour running down these options:
1. Convert the 78 silver comstars to dual disc, take that set from the Pirate Ship and swap them on Jenny, fab the original rotor adapters to the 5 bolt comstars, and pray I don’t run into rear wheel clearance issues with the 18” instead of the planned 16” - as that would involve complete redesign of the rear end, electronics box, seat… ugh.
2. Mill about 15mm off the standouts (12 total) on the VFR rims, fab the 6x6 adapters for the 929 rotors. Risky.
3. Original shaving plan on the original reverse Comstars.
Needless to say, if I still drank, there would have been some drinking.
So, I started thinking about custom rotors. That’s the obvious solution. Until I priced that out. Let’s call that one a goal state ideal for another timeline.
Figuring that there’s got to be a way to make this work, I set out to find a solution. FYI. If you’re ever in this particular realm of the internet, tarazon.com has rotor specs on just about every single motorcycle rotor ever made. Diameter, ID, bolt hole pattern, size, offset.
Bam. Found it. 2006 CBF600 rotors are zero offset 5MM rotors 296 diameter, I’ve got a set of CBR600 calipers that are slightly shallower than the 929 as they were made for 296’s and have the same bolt pattern and size as the 929 calipers. So a simple 5MM spacer behind the rotor gives me the offset needed to line them up exactly with zero machining of the rim.
So, back to having a conversation with my buddy Mango Jelly about polar arrays and here we have it
Holy forking shirtballs Batman!
Are you having fun yet??
Are you having fun yet??
Holy forking shirtballs Batman!
Are you having fun yet??
Ha! Haven’t even started on solving the footrest/shifter linkage yet (need to convert linear motion to rotary motion with how the engine is rotated 90 degrees in these designs).
That and every one of these style
Of GL builds always has the straight mummy wrapped headers as exhaust - so I’m assuming that’s for some other interesting reason I’ll find down the road.
Apart from those two things, I think I have the fitment issues sorted so now it’s just waiting game of shipping delays.
Oh well. Super nice day in store here, might actually get a chance to take the CB out and get a proof of life photo to complete the before and after on that one.
Well. One step forward. Got the spacers from sendcutsend.com. Incidentally, crazy quick service for a decent price and the quality was really good.
Half step forward. Got one of the eBay VF rotors
Pay no attention to the rando hardware. Dry fit only and need a bit of countersink in the spacer
Aargh.
Put one of the smaller rotors on the other side (same width, smaller diameter).
Yep. There’s my step back. Failed to account for the compression of the axle bolt on the spread. And the larger VF rotors are 6 mil, not 5 mil.
Now the gap is down to about 3mm.
Off to sendcutsend for slightly thinner shims, and find a brake spot that can turn the rotors down to 5 mil.
We’ve got proof of concept, and goddamit this is going to work. Front end is going to be parts from four different bikes but it’s going to work.
Half step forward. Got one of the eBay VF rotors
Pay no attention to the rando hardware. Dry fit only and need a bit of countersink in the spacer
Aargh.
Put one of the smaller rotors on the other side (same width, smaller diameter).
Yep. There’s my step back. Failed to account for the compression of the axle bolt on the spread. And the larger VF rotors are 6 mil, not 5 mil.
Now the gap is down to about 3mm.
Off to sendcutsend for slightly thinner shims, and find a brake spot that can turn the rotors down to 5 mil.
We’ve got proof of concept, and goddamit this is going to work. Front end is going to be parts from four different bikes but it’s going to work.
Last edited:
Before:
Current status.
The second thrust washer for the impeller finally showed up, so I was able to do the mechanical seal replacement and get to work on reassembling the engine. It’s nice to finally see some kind of progress, considering how much of the remainder is ready to go and just hung up waiting on pieces and parts. I seriously don’t know what’s going on with shipping lately but nothing is moving anywhere.
Current status.
The second thrust washer for the impeller finally showed up, so I was able to do the mechanical seal replacement and get to work on reassembling the engine. It’s nice to finally see some kind of progress, considering how much of the remainder is ready to go and just hung up waiting on pieces and parts. I seriously don’t know what’s going on with shipping lately but nothing is moving anywhere.
Looking good man, I'm sure you're anxious to start assembling.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
It sure does look good.
Beats me. I just got ebay pistons from OH (next state over basically) in about 8 days.
Man. Tell me about it.
Waiting on the headlight assembly from SpeedMotoCo that’s been delayed for 4 weeks. Can’t really do much with tightening up the electrical until then.
ETA: I should clarify here since I know SpeedMotoCo is a vendor here - delay is on his vendor’s side. They quoted a one week timeline and crickets from them.
The other brake rotor is somewhere in Florida - which is really weird since SunCity Cycle usually has really quick shipping. Need that to finish the front wheel and send the rotors out to be thinned down.
Can’t mount the engine without the replacement cam holder gasket that was inexplicably missing from the set. So can’t start mocking up shift and brake linkage.
This is when stupid ideas and idle time on FB marketplace lead to bad decisions.
Last edited:
The battle of millimeters is down to 2. I can fit one pad on the brakes. Just need 1 more mil on each side to fit the other. This means taking the rotors down to 5 mil… and finding someone with the right equipment to do that. Allegedly, according to a 12 year old post on SOHC4, Schumann can - crossing my fingers there since Dallas is a chorus of “no” so far.
But. We’ve got a “sorta” roller.
Unfortunately, even when I switch to an 80 series rear tire, the XS650 monoshock rear is going to be a clearance problem. It’s 1/2” shorter than stock and it lowers the rear just a whisker too far. With 100mm of shock travel, I’ll only have room for 90 before the tire potentially clips the rear of the frame - not to mention driveways and speed bumps posing a real challenge at the center stand. While I could eliminate the center stand, it really makes storage a pain in the ass without it.
Getting much closer though.
But. We’ve got a “sorta” roller.
Unfortunately, even when I switch to an 80 series rear tire, the XS650 monoshock rear is going to be a clearance problem. It’s 1/2” shorter than stock and it lowers the rear just a whisker too far. With 100mm of shock travel, I’ll only have room for 90 before the tire potentially clips the rear of the frame - not to mention driveways and speed bumps posing a real challenge at the center stand. While I could eliminate the center stand, it really makes storage a pain in the ass without it.
Getting much closer though.
The challenges of uniqueness continue.
Schumann shot me down, guess he hasn’t been doing that for quite a few years - obviously he’s got a lot going on specializing in heads, etc.
I did manage to find a place in MI that will take them down to 5, but that’s as far as they’ll go. I’ll have to make it work.
The real fun starts now with the spacers for the axles. I’ve got enough stock for 3 of them. Need two and have about a .5MM margin of error.
I have a feeling I’m going to be refitting that front axle another 709 times over the next week or so.
220, 221, whatever it takes... errr, I mean 709, 710, whatever it takes.
Waiting on the brake rotors to finish the spacers on the front axle, the longer shock to get the rear wheel height, the repair boots for the carb insulators, the headlight to finish the front end, the replacement thermostat to finish the radiator so I can hang the engine… feels like 50% of this build has been watching tracking numbers the past couple of months.
Oh well, took some time to dry fit the wiring, since this harness is entirely scratch - won’t have a headlight bucket or the normal fuse panel so everything is routed through a marine fuse panel under the seat
Looks like first go is pretty straight. The 12v+ runs were a touch long once everything got tied up, but the main issue is the starter solenoid - stands about 5MM too tall and hits the seat, should be able to resolve that with a more compact version from the CBR series. and start fabricating the splash guard, wrapping the ends of the harness and figuring out where the coolant overflow is going to go.
Oh well, took some time to dry fit the wiring, since this harness is entirely scratch - won’t have a headlight bucket or the normal fuse panel so everything is routed through a marine fuse panel under the seat
Looks like first go is pretty straight. The 12v+ runs were a touch long once everything got tied up, but the main issue is the starter solenoid - stands about 5MM too tall and hits the seat, should be able to resolve that with a more compact version from the CBR series. and start fabricating the splash guard, wrapping the ends of the harness and figuring out where the coolant overflow is going to go.
Very nice handwritten wiring diagram, well thought out. This build has been pretty involved.