CarloMécano
Member
Ok
I have worked hard on this one. Lets see if we can figure out the issue.. or if i will have to take the top end apart once more.
I’m running stock carbs, have been rebuilt recently, thought i have not done the felt seals on the throttle shafts yet. One of them has a iffy spring for the choke plate. But it should be okay i am imagining not my issue here.
those guys in Houston shockwave electronic ignition kit. ( ran a ground wire to battery negative from , ignition coil bracket, engine head next to points case, anddd the green wire to harness. noticed it was fouling my plugs way to quick, and when i keyed off, i could feel the circuits arcing , which now has been solved i believe)
I honed the cylinders with a ball hone. Two passes well oiled.
Valves replaced for new and machined new guides ( no seals ) and new stock standard pistons and rings went back in…. Ya. Where i may have done goof.. idk
Same parts as original on most other internals
Get this. On a run test , the timing sprocket knock bolt gave out and sheared. Causing an interference to the engine… ouch
Took the engine back out. Removed the bent valve. Put the original back in… ( machinist said they were fine !!) fiewf …
I know i wasn’t as diligent as could be. I’m still learning. And am getting slowly equipped with tools and precision instruments.
Anyway several month down the line. All back together. ( a gamble i took i guess )
The machine idles. And fires on both .
Throttle adjusted great , carbs set to idle .
Have emgo shorties with baffle inserts as you can see.
Machine
Idles fine.
I have crappy clamps at my rubber boots around the carb intake and new stock air filters have them missing all together.
Thankfully have some with me here.
Before the weather permits i’m wondering if anyone has input for this issue i’m running through.
I race up the street, 1st gear bring it up to speed, bogg at 5 k rpm
2nd gear same , then all is weird man nothing sounds correct . The machine is pushing hard but no power.
Usually i can take off pretty well when i freshly start my ride around the block. But it just gets worst and then it rough.
I’m thinking fuel air issue.
I did static timing. Adjusted chain and valves.
I guess real question is how is compression. What is minimum spec you’d typically get from kicking over twice or three times with the carbs on the machine.
Once thats out of the way. I could get my new dynamic engine timing strobe light out and check the health of my ignition + timing of my machine.
It feels weird to me having a mechanical advance in with this electronic system.
I’m not giving up on this one. Just trying to make some progress and see where i’m headed.
Hopefully not a rebore and top end overhaul haha. But heck i’ll do it i swear !
Hehe
Looking forward to giving a second life to this once forgotten gem.
Cheers.
Carl.

I have worked hard on this one. Lets see if we can figure out the issue.. or if i will have to take the top end apart once more.
I’m running stock carbs, have been rebuilt recently, thought i have not done the felt seals on the throttle shafts yet. One of them has a iffy spring for the choke plate. But it should be okay i am imagining not my issue here.
those guys in Houston shockwave electronic ignition kit. ( ran a ground wire to battery negative from , ignition coil bracket, engine head next to points case, anddd the green wire to harness. noticed it was fouling my plugs way to quick, and when i keyed off, i could feel the circuits arcing , which now has been solved i believe)
I honed the cylinders with a ball hone. Two passes well oiled.
Valves replaced for new and machined new guides ( no seals ) and new stock standard pistons and rings went back in…. Ya. Where i may have done goof.. idk
Same parts as original on most other internals
Get this. On a run test , the timing sprocket knock bolt gave out and sheared. Causing an interference to the engine… ouch
Took the engine back out. Removed the bent valve. Put the original back in… ( machinist said they were fine !!) fiewf …
I know i wasn’t as diligent as could be. I’m still learning. And am getting slowly equipped with tools and precision instruments.
Anyway several month down the line. All back together. ( a gamble i took i guess )
The machine idles. And fires on both .
Throttle adjusted great , carbs set to idle .
Have emgo shorties with baffle inserts as you can see.
Machine
Idles fine.I have crappy clamps at my rubber boots around the carb intake and new stock air filters have them missing all together.
Thankfully have some with me here.
Before the weather permits i’m wondering if anyone has input for this issue i’m running through.
I race up the street, 1st gear bring it up to speed, bogg at 5 k rpm
2nd gear same , then all is weird man nothing sounds correct . The machine is pushing hard but no power.
Usually i can take off pretty well when i freshly start my ride around the block. But it just gets worst and then it rough.
I’m thinking fuel air issue.
I did static timing. Adjusted chain and valves.
I guess real question is how is compression. What is minimum spec you’d typically get from kicking over twice or three times with the carbs on the machine.
Once thats out of the way. I could get my new dynamic engine timing strobe light out and check the health of my ignition + timing of my machine.
It feels weird to me having a mechanical advance in with this electronic system.
I’m not giving up on this one. Just trying to make some progress and see where i’m headed.
Hopefully not a rebore and top end overhaul haha. But heck i’ll do it i swear !
Hehe
Looking forward to giving a second life to this once forgotten gem.
Cheers.
Carl.


