1972 CB175: rebuild then restore

Probably best to just replace it with the bladed fuse link at this point then. Takes just as much effort as repairing the old style and it’s far cheaper.
I replaced with a blade fuse and I get a good neutral light now. Bike has spark and gas is reaching the carbs but it isn't starting up. It pops every once in a while but it isn't firing up for extended lengths of time. Any ideas?
 
I replaced with a blade fuse and I get a good neutral light now. Bike has spark and gas is reaching the carbs but it isn't starting up. It pops every once in a while but it isn't firing up for extended lengths of time. Any ideas?
But have you checked the points and timing?
 
No I haven't. I'll try and check tomorrow and report back. Wasn't suspecting those to be off because it was running well before the fuse issue.
Points and Timing Video So i was able to check the points and timing. My points were a little snug, but I increased the gap using a feeler guage to 0.3m. I then checked my timing and a indicator light comes on as the F mark passes by the index mark the light comes on. Im not sure if the mark should stay on as long as it does or if my points gap is still too tight. Should it go off immediately as the F mark passes the indicator?
 
Points and Timing Video So i was able to check the points and timing. My points were a little snug, but I increased the gap using a feeler guage to 0.3m. I then checked my timing and a indicator light comes on as the F mark passes by the index mark the light comes on. Im not sure if the mark should stay on as long as it does or if my points gap is still too tight. Should it go off immediately as the F mark passes the indicator?
Video link doesn't work. The static timing bulb stays on as long as the points are open, but yes it should come on immediately at F
 
Video link doesn't work. The static timing bulb stays on as long as the points are open, but yes it should come on immediately at F
I just watched your video at Reddit. Though the F mark isn't clearly visible from that distance, it the light comes on immediately as F aligns with the pointer then it is correct. However, the gap is also important and we can't see the points plate position which would have an effect on the gap of the points - smaller gap, light comes on later; larger gap, the light comes on sooner, so the plate is supposed to be rotated to the position where the light comes on at the F mark WITH the points gap between .012" and .016".
 
Here is another link. I believe it should work
I just watched your video at Reddit. Though the F mark isn't clearly visible from that distance, it the light comes on immediately as F aligns with the pointer then it is correct. However, the gap is also important and we can't see the points plate position which would have an effect on the gap of the points - smaller gap, light comes on later; larger gap, the light comes on sooner, so the plate is supposed to be rotated to the position where the light comes on at the F mark WITH the points gap between .012" and .016".
I will try and get a video of the points plate, but i did rotate the plate so that it comes on when the F mark aligns with the pointer.
 
I will try and get a video of the points plate, but i did rotate the plate so that it comes on when the F mark aligns with the pointer.
This sounds like the method suggested by those guys in Houston. I suppose you can do it that way, but the proper method as described in the FSM is to adjust the points to .014", in the middle of the range of .012" to .016", then rotate the plate until the light comes on at the F mark. This way you know the points gap is within spec range so the dwell will be correct as well as the static timing.
 
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This sounds like the method suggested by those guys in Houston. I suppose you can do it that way, but the proper method as described in the FSM is to adjust the points to .014", in the middle of the range of .012" to .016", then rotate the plate until the light comes on at the F mark. This way you know the points gap is within spec range so the dwell will be correct as well as the static timing.
Okay I just uploaded another video to Reddit. This one should show the points as the f mark rotates to and past the indicator
 
Static timing looks correct. Resulting points gap?
So I set the feeler gauge so when it is open the gap is 0.3mm or 0.0138", then adjust the plate so when the f is at the indicator the test light turns on. Still not starting. Would you check the carbs next?
 
Cleaned the carbs even though they seemed pretty clean to begin with still not starting. Maybe my connection at the new blade fuse isn't great or the blade fuses themselves aren't correct. I've got a 15 amp blade fuse installed. The neutral light comes on but maybe that would come on even if there was a bad connection or incorrect fuse? Any ideas?
 
Cleaned the carbs even though they seemed pretty clean to begin with still not starting. Maybe my connection at the new blade fuse isn't great or the blade fuses themselves aren't correct. I've got a 15 amp blade fuse installed. The neutral light comes on but maybe that would come on even if there was a bad connection or incorrect fuse? Any ideas?
Your bike only has one fuse, if it's good and the connection is sound then the whole bike should have power.
 
Your bike only has one fuse, if it's good and the connection is sound then the whole bike should have power.
I guess I'm stuck then. Power seems fine I guess. Neutral light comes on and electric starter is attempting to start the bike.
 
A full page ago EzPete suggested you check compression after you said the engine turns over but all you were getting was an occasional pop. You did not respond.

Then I asked about the resulting points gap when you said you had it timed correctly.
So I set the feeler gauge so when it is open the gap is 0.3mm or 0.0138", then adjust the plate so when the f is at the indicator the test light turns on. Still not starting. Would you check the carbs next?
This was after you had mentioned setting the timing and getting it spot on. When you have been answering, sometimes the answers are vague like the one above. Do you mean you did that AFTER you already said you had the timing and points gap right, or was that an explanation of HOW you did it?

Clarity and full responses to questions asked, along with pictures of what you see (not always videos because sometimes we need to see a still shot of what you're working on) are often very helpful. After all that has happened in this thread, we have no idea exactly where your progress has taken you.
 
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