The most important thing to know at this point is that every carb kit for sale out there has inaccurate brass and other hard parts in them. Did you try loosening the spring-loaded pin in the float needle? It could just be stuck and with a little careful work with needle nose pliers and some penetrant it might loosen the stuck spring. If not, places like JetsRUs and Sirius Consolidated are good sources for accurate replacements.
Thank you for the link! I just pulled the carb again and found another issue! It appears the float itself actually takes in fuel. I noticed as I pulled it out that it sound like some fluid was inside of it. The float needle seems to spring back when depressed slightly with a finger. Could the float having a little fluid in it be enough to depress the needle. I guess I'll need to replace the float.
The float needle may be okay, but the float itself allowing gas inside it definitely needs to be addressed. Sometimes you can re-solder the seams and stop the fuel leaking into it
The float needle appears to work! I switched the good float to the other carburetor and it performed the spring action as it should. I think I've figured out the leaking side of the one bowl based on the sound. I tried submerging it in gasoline to find the leak but I didn't see any bubbles. I'm going to let the gas currently within the float evaporate and then I'll use a hand lense to try and locate the pinhole.
It's possible the leak is at a soldered seam on the float, the solder on these is old and can get brittle with age.
Pictures of the areas you worked on always help. Words rarely describe things well enough to make educated guesses in situations like this, because we can't see everything that was worked on or touched in a specific area where other things could have accidentally been affected as well.
This sounds like an excellent idea. Do you have any recommendations for aftermarket throttle cables?
I realized one was installed incorrectly. I thought I placed them in correctly but one must have slipped around when I was trying to wrangle the spring and throttle cable.
Is the charging system all original at this point? Stock rectifier (#4) and separate regulator (#1) under the battery box, like the picture below?
Rear shocks are replacement items, front forks can be rebuilt with new seals and fresh fluid. Not sure if there are any videos out there of it but probably, though you should always take any video with caution and a grain of salt as the people making them often only think they know the right way to do things. Using the FSM and asking questions here, accompanied by plenty of pictures of what you're working on, will be the best help you'll get.
There is no danger riding it as is until you can do the repair, and there is little to nothing you can do from the outside to slow the leak aside from re-torquing the head and that is unlikely to make a difference. You do understand that the engine will have to be removed from the frame to do the work, right? It's not a difficult job, just a lot of disassembly and reassembly.
Thanks for the info! I didn't have time yesterday to check for the original rectifier and regulator. I'll try and have a look this afternoon and let you know what I find. Not really sure what to expect. i think the wiring harness was messed with by the PO so maybe they installed a new regulator/rectifier at some point.Is the charging system all original at this point? Stock rectifier (#4) and separate regulator (#1) under the battery box, like the picture below?
If so, the Sparck Moto unit would be the best replacement for both of those, yes. While the original rectifier could be the cause of your battery drain, since you're using an old school flooded lead acid battery and they rarely last more than a couple years on average, the battery could be suspect as well.
Rear shocks are replacement items, front forks can be rebuilt with new seals and fresh fluid. Not sure if there are any videos out there of it but probably, though you should always take any video with caution and a grain of salt as the people making them often only think they know the right way to do things. Using the FSM and asking questions here, accompanied by plenty of pictures of what you're working on, will be the best help you'll get.
There is no danger riding it as is until you can do the repair, and there is little to nothing you can do from the outside to slow the leak aside from re-torquing the head and that is unlikely to make a difference. You do understand that the engine will have to be removed from the frame to do the work, right? It's not a difficult job, just a lot of disassembly and reassembly.
Is the charging system all original at this point? Stock rectifier (#4) and separate regulator (#1) under the battery box, like the picture below?
If so, the Sparck Moto unit would be the best replacement for both of those, yes. While the original rectifier could be the cause of your battery drain, since you're using an old school flooded lead acid battery and they rarely last more than a couple years on average, the battery could be suspect as well.
Rear shocks are replacement items, front forks can be rebuilt with new seals and fresh fluid. Not sure if there are any videos out there of it but probably, though you should always take any video with caution and a grain of salt as the people making them often only think they know the right way to do things. Using the FSM and asking questions here, accompanied by plenty of pictures of what you're working on, will be the best help you'll get.
There is no danger riding it as is until you can do the repair, and there is little to nothing you can do from the outside to slow the leak aside from re-torquing the head and that is unlikely to make a difference. You do understand that the engine will have to be removed from the frame to do the work, right? It's not a difficult job, just a lot of disassembly and reassembly.
I wish I could help you out, but when I went to inspect and measure my spring for you, lo and behold, it was missing along with the little piece of metal used for mounting it to the frame. I'm not sure what size it was, but it seemed smaller than 5 inches.
If there is something in particular I should take a photo of, I am happy to do so.
Everything in the areas of what you described in the previous post - points wiring with the cover off, throttle cable routing, etc. And when you said you didn't "remove any other wiring", were you talking about actual wiring or other cables? Generally speaking, replacing cables doesn't usually involve wiring except at the right handlebar switch. Terminology is important so we know what exactly you're trying to describe.
I was able to find the location for that rubber stopper, but there is no way the wire will reach there with its current length. I also inspected the attachment point between ignition condenser and the points and it appears the points wire is even more messed up than I previously knew (see photo).
I was about to say, we can't see it from here
I rerouted the throttle cable as you suggested and that has fixed the revving issue. Seems to be running well now. I think I must have accidently bumped the choke lever or something. I typically don't need to use the choke.
Unless the main harness got pulled and it affected some connections inside the headlight case where all those relevant connections are from the right handlebar switch.
