The statement that it is too tight is not true, but that size feeler is difficult to find and so this it's hard to properly use. BTW, you are measuring them between the follower and the cam lobe, right? Not between the tip of the follower and the valve stem.
The clip on the left has been installed on the spindle but it was only expanded just enough to slip on and off the spindle. It actually fit tighter in the groove than the one I just installed taking more pressure to spin it. I think it is an aftermarket clip not quite made to the same specs as the Honda clip.
Yeah, I couldn't imagine you being the one who stretched it, you're too meticulous for that. Just seems strange they would have sold it to you like that.
I have to say it is about the only thing from DSS that I have been disappointed in other than the fork boots for the S90. I bought the aftermarket ones and one of them has torn after less than 2 years and I not even rode it that much. I have a new set of Honda boots and need to get them swapped before the cold sets in.
If I hadn't been out filling my second 5 gallon gas can and my truck for this Thursday's potentially-impending hurricane I would have answered you within a minute. Yes, always outward away from the plugs, and here's the reason visually.
A T-Handle flathead helps to keep that inner adjuster from turning as you snug the nut down - that's the only way I could keep it from spinning a bit and either opening up or clamping down.
Yikes that's right you guys have another unwelcome guest coming you way. Hope she passes by without to much drama. Thanks for the visual and a picture is worth a thousand words.
I actually did try that but I need to get some better quality bits. The only flat head bit I had that was close to the right size broke when I was using it to hold shaft in place and tighten the nut. I really wasn't putting that much force on it just cheap bit out of a cheap kit.
Thank you for letting me know these are available but with a big thank you, @EzPete sent me a right hand 723A to match the left hand one I have, Of course they need to be cleaned disassembled and then put back together. Excuse the ignorance but what year model did the 723Bs come off of?
I may be interested in those if my next round of rejetting for the overbore doesn’t work.
If you can't find yours, I probably have one from one of my spare bottom ends. Let me know if you need it.
I think end play once assembled and installed on the camshaft with the retaining bolt and hardened washer is what determines if you need one or more shims under the points cam. Excess end play causes erratic advancing and has caused rideability issues on some bikes here.
Thank you, I am not sure I ever had one and was intending to cobble one up. If I can't find one I will reach out but if you don't have one handy no worries.
That makes sense. I will clean, lube and reassemble it with just the one shim and the install it on the cam and then see how much end play it has. I wish Honda did have some tech data about rebuilding the advance units but with different manufactures making them I suppose was easier jut to say replace them
I'm pretty sure I do have one, I remember seeing it along the way and knowing I wouldn't need it for the one remaining engine to be built going into a bike that won't even use an alternator. So let me know if you can't find yours, and I'll check.
Thanks for the reply and for the thread. I am thinking the 2 copper color washers will go on the bottom and the steel ones on top. You mentioned wavy washers go on top in the thread but these all look flat to me but I will take another look before assembly. I think I will just use oil to lubricate the unit so I don't have to worry about the grease hardening up.
I did order from McMaster and they did work perfectly. I only used 2 so there are a lot left over so If you pm me your address I’ll put a few in an envelope for you tomorrow. I just have to remember where I put them all
I know it costs more, but if you just put them in a plain envelope they might get caught in the mail sorting mechanism and get ripped out of the envelope, leaving an empty envelope to be delivered. It's happened before with small, reasonably thin stuff.I did order from McMaster and they did work perfectly. I only used 2 so there are a lot left over so If you pm me your address I’ll put a few in an envelope for you tomorrow. I just have to remember where I put them all
Exactly the story I was trying to recall!
Thank you!I did order from McMaster and they did work perfectly. I only used 2 so there are a lot left over so If you pm me your address I’ll put a few in an envelope for you tomorrow. I just have to remember where I put them all
I think the reason I got them off without them flying everywhere is that after the hot and cold cycles when the engine was running and then after sitting 50 years they pretty much lost their temper. The part that scared me is the alignment pin that goes in the shaft on the exhaust cam. When I was checking end play the little rascal slipped out of my fingers, hit the bench and bounced. I swear i watched it go on the garage floor under my pickup. I crawled around on the concrete for about 10 minutes and then finally got up to get off my knees and happened to glance back towards the engine and there was the pin right next to the engine still on the bench. Laugh and curse.
Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and a copy of the parts manual? You can PM an admin and they will give you a download link. Most of what I was talking about in this thread was about rebuilding the starter motor. The starter clutch is attached behind the alternator rotor and has some small springs and roller bearings that need to be replaced and they are available from different vendors. Here is a link to a video that goes through the process and there are others on YouTube. BTW I only use the videos to help me see how parts are put together and be wary of how they do the work as they can sometimes do a lot of damage.
But it shouldn't have any leaks there anyway, the seal behind the points rarely leaks and the rest of the cover area is dry. It only has a gasket to keep water out of the points, of course. But it could use a flat file for a minute, for sure.
Oops! Just my programmed reaction to a banged up gasket surface.
Bob, you're just being thorough.
I blame the phones today. Cameras are too good.Thanks for taking a look and confirming the wires are connected correctly. Also I will smooth out the gasket surface. It’s amazing how many more imperfections you see in photos.
I concur. What my aging eyes see and what the camera sees are definitely 2 different things
I think this is the real issue. I've learned to take a photo of something I'm having trouble reading, as well as of something I'm working on that seems to be giving me a hard time.I concur. What my aging eyes see and what the camera sees are definitely 2 different things
I do it all the time, if things are hard to read then you can always zoom in on a picture. (the warrior uses the weapons at hand. LOL)
By pressing hard do you mean with a regular pair of pliers or some other implement?
Thumbs, like trying to push the cap off. It's almost like they're glued in place which is how I reassemble them. Heat may help. Pliers tend to leave gouges but may work for you
