Only slightly higher, pretty sure stock coil primary side should be 5 ohms.
I tested with a timing light and the misfire IS picked up by the timing light pulses. I ohm'd out the new coils, wires, plug caps before installing, all were in spec. So...possible causes???
. Thank you all in advance for suggestions on where to go from here.
My first guess based on anecdotal information
The issue would be battery voltage primarily, but the rec/reg unit could be the cause of that if you were having low battery issues. These engines run entirely on the battery at idle speed and low rpm, so if the battery is not strong (holds at least 12.6v static) then idling for a bit can cause the battery to droop below 12v and one coil get starved for power.
Honda head gaskets rarely actually leak compression, and usually when they do you actually hear the pressure escaping. When people less informed say they have a blown head gasket, they're usually talking about oil leaks and that does not affect the way the engine runs.
Who knows?
Still points to the Tytronic, one of the pickups could be failing under heat.
Dude, this is why we're here, you'll have plenty of time down the road to worry about helping others as your experience grows and you see some of the same problems/symptoms and repairs again and again. That's part of what makes it easy for us because we often know right away what the problem is and how easily it's fixed. It's the long-winded typing that's a pain in the assOne of these days I hope to give more than I take
but I can't use my phone (for talk to type) all the time because all my resources are on my computer and I'm feeble-eyed.
Battery is fairly new, currently holding 12.78 static
No noise, check
My thinking too
It's the long-winded typing that's a pain in the ass
ouch, got it. Less wind
Hey, nobody wants wind LOL but if it takes a long answer I'll be typing a long answer, because I hate short stories - quick and simple/basic answers more often than not create the need for more responses, details matter even if they do take time typing with 2 fingers and a thumb.
I find the OEM clips to be difficult to work with and bought a pack of e-clips and a tool that make it easier to remove and install them. I am using 4.0mm clips on my advancer.
Coo! Where did you buy them?
Thanks
At what exactly? Because the gap changes everything.
The picture of the points plate in the FSM is the base starting point, yes, the idea of which is to allow flat screwdriver movement for minor adjustments in both directions easily. If the points gaps are closer to .012" than .016" then the plate would have to be advanced more to compensate.
AFAIK, yes
The way to check that would be to compare the exact opening point of the points cam on each of them, relative to the locating pin slot.
.014
At what exactly? Because the gap changes everything.
And you got the static timing dead on for both cylinders with the plate in that position and the same .014" gap on both sets of points? That would be incredibly rare.
.014 both sides, yes. Not dead on but very close. Close enough for a good long test ride. Now for a little more fine tuning
I would pull the front sprocket cover and make sure the large flat washer and circlip are in place over the seal on the shift shaft, looks like there's too much free movement for it to be in place. #2 and 12 below
Thanks for the input. I did drop it on the left side the other day. Maybe it popped the circlip.I would pull the front sprocket cover and make sure the large flat washer and circlip are in place over the seal on the shift shaft, looks like there's too much free movement for it to be in place. #2 and 12 below
The bigger concern is for the circlip groove and the integrity of the current circlip. Since it got pushed out of its groove, there could be a repeat of it with a lot less push inward. Did you take the circlip off and look for the squared edged side before putting it back in place? The rounded-edged side goes inward, squared edge outward.Pulled the sprocket cover and the circlip had popped out of its groove. all's good now
I did not. That's a good point. I did squeeze it closed with snap ring pliers after it was back in its groove to make sure it wasn't sprung open, it seemed ok. easy enough to do it again.
www.vintagehondatwins.com
Thanks Rob and EzPete!! I think I'll go ahead with that fix as a preemptiveIf it does it again you might consider a fix that @EzPete come up with using a collar with a set screw. Here is the link:
DOHC 450 Shift lever shaft retaining clip “fix”
Regarding the shift lever rod retaining clip issue on the 450’s, where the c-clip stops seating in the little groove due to whatever ailments the poor bike has suffered in the hands of the PO: After 3 fresh new Honda clips all failed back to back to back, I realized that it’s the rod itself...
Here is a link to a 12mm collar I found on Amazon if needed but I didn't order yet.
What does the CL450 use as a center stand stopper?
I should have added that the rubber bumper stops on the frame.
That's what I thought from the location of the bump stop. Of course it's a moot point if the header interferes with the center stand itself. I'll get a hold of them again and try to get a definitive answer on that and the oil plug issue.
And the best sounding version of them, from K1 to K4, are the hardest to find in decent, serviceable condition too, at a massive price. @Danager4792 managed to find an NOS set but paid handsomely for them.
Interesting you say that. I remember my 73 CL450 had a nice thump thump exhaust note, compared to my CB now
I searched consistently for maybe a year. I saw a post in a FB group where a guy was selling NOS exhaust pieces from a pallet he had bought. $450 shipped I got the main piece, but I will need to transfer over the heat shield and buy new bolts etc.
Definitely beautiful but a little too costly for me at this point. Other maintenance items are higher on the priority list right now. Thanks for the eye-candy
