Adding more force to the adjustment puts more pressure on the cam chain and rollers than intended and will wear them out sooner. Let the spring inside the tensioner assembly put the correct amount of tension on the chain and lock it there.
Makes sense with that explanation. So when I tighten the bolt, is there a specific torque value or do I just use reasonable wrench tension?
It just dawned on me the reference you were making, and interestingly enough that is EXACTLY what their video doesn't explain, and what likely caused this guy to half destroy his top end because he did the same exact thing before his jumped cam timing and broke a follower.
www.vintagehondatwins.com
Yes, just tighten the lock bolt using a good "feel" for the strength of a 6mm bolt (with 10mm head). Not sure how you'd get a torque wrench in there anyway.
Strictly gravity feed. OEM fuel line size is 5.5mm available from 4into1, but you have to buy 5 feet of it to get any since they stopped selling it by the foot.
You might check how smoothly the slide lifts and drops in the top cover of the carb, that reaction is similar to when the CV carbs on a 350 or 360 have a bad diaphragm.
) is working properly (shutting-ff 100%), please empty your float chambers while riding the bike by shutting-off the fuel-kok 300 meters or a 1/4 mile before you reach your destination and let it run until the engine is cutting-off by itself. If you don't plan to run it for a longer time, open the choke a little by little to keep the engine going, until the choke is fully closed and the engine shuts down due to fuel starvation. After this, the bowls are empty, and the jets are bone dry.
The slide lifts and drops smoothly like it should. Of course I checked it while the engine is cold this morning. Not sure if it will be any different but I'll check it again after I warm up the engine later today.
Going through some different threads, looks like I should test coils, plug wire caps, condensers. The bike came with tytronic EI...need to do some research on that too. I think I read someplace that orange spark indicates a weak spark.
And I may have mentioned this before, but that Tytronic EI could be suspect in this situation, they seem to be known for a short-ish life.
Yup you did. If that's the culprit, any recommendations on a quality EI?
Seems the consensus overall is the Charlie's Place EI, though (it seems) he insists that his coils be used with it too though you'd have to check with Charlie. Most of the EIs are just "points replacements" in that they use the stock centrifugal advancer unit, no electronic advance. But they do save the points adjustments every few thousand miles.
The thing I like about this expensive euro item is it does away with your mechanical advancer, so no more worries about balance weight stickiness or spring tension.
Oops, posted the wrong link. https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/digital-ignition-zdg-3-23-for-honda-cb450-500t.html
www.vintagehondatwins.com
I'd keep looking for more anecdotal proof, I wouldn't necessarily take that guy's word for it alone.
Understood. I'm still gonna check everything else before I start throwing money at it.
I wish I did. I purchased the bike with the EI already installed. That would take one variable out of the equation.
10.5k on the right cap is too high in itself, but the no reading on the left seems off. Are you sure it's zero, as in no resistance at all (non-resistor cap), or infinity?
The ohm meter reads "O.L". Like when you're not touching anything. Those should be reading around 5k, right?
Correct. If it’s OL, then the wire and/or cap are no good.
That's what I'm doing. Just testing the cap itself. I know doesn't make sense to me either.
Yes, that's pretty much a given at this point since the one with a reading is over double what it should be.
With an OL reading on the left plug it’s a virtual guarantee there’s no way to get spark there.
There was a very tiny orange spark. It was very weak. It would run on Both cylinders for a few miles, then the left cylinder would sputter and mis-fire. That's what started this whole exercise.
That's on my to-do list. Along with checking all bullet connectors and grounds.
They were mismatched. The left cylinder was running a B8ES and the right was running a B7ES. I have a set of BR8ES on order. I'm assuming the "R" means resister type.
. I'll be tearing into it more on Friday.
My understanding is it doesn't matter as long as one is the resister type and the other is not so you need to be sure to order non resister caps. Be sure to test them when they come in to make sure there was no defects or worse counterfeit parts. Who are you ordering parts if you don't mind mind my asking?
I was thinking about ordering a them from 4into1. Any suggestions? How do you tell if they are counterfeit? How do you test non resistor caps?
4into1 should be fine but a quick search didn't show any non resistor caps so you may want to contact them before you place the order to make sure they have them. I believe I got my caps from them but they are resistor and I ended up ordering Denso non resistor plugs. If you are order from a reputable vendor then you shouldn't have issues with counterfeit parts and to test a non resistor cap should ohm out at or close to zero like a straight piece of copper wire. The new plugs should be at 5K ohms.
Which Denso non resister plugs are you running?
ND (Nippon Denso) W24ES = NGK B8ES or NGK 2411
4into1.com
Here's how they're mounted. Looks like they are connected to the original mountNope, definitely not original. I'd like to see how they mounted them because it might have an effect on replacing them with factory-style coils. If the original mount in intact, you should make it easy for yourself and buy a pair of these.
Ignition Coil - Honda CB/CL/SL350K CB/CL/CJ360 CB/CL450K CB500T
Reproduction 12V Honda ignition coil. This coil replaces the stock style coil that came on many of Honda's CB/CL/SL twins from the 70's, it can be used on the left or right side.
