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The "Not a Project" CB450DX (project log + pics)

Oh, and if someone has any tips for easily fixing the painting in this, I'm all ears:
1736204573854.png

I thought about using black nail polish but that seems like a bad idea.
I know around here we got some good quality spray paint cans as well, so my second idea was to just use masking tape on the HONDA letters and go for it with high temprature black spray paint.

If I end up going for the spray paint, I'll go ahead and also try to paint the side of the head cap, which SHOULD look like this, black in the middle:
1736204720961.png

One day I'll take the engine out and do epoxy, but that will take a while, won't happen before I buy a car (or a second motorcycle, who knows).

EDIT: Damn, I reached the 3rd page.
 
Hey, guys.
Long time, no see.
Life has been crazy, and so has been the bike. Sorry for always writing like I'm telling a story but I just love doing it like this.

First of all, I rebuilt the front suspension with the same mechanic as before (also the same one who sold me the bike with its previous owner), and it needed new cylinders. The bike still had the original ones, it was so soft it was starting to get on my nerves. It was expensive, but okay. Now it's still a bit soft but not even close to before, I also went with Motul 10w fork oil. Thankfully, no leaks, looks good, rides good.
Standing up on the bike, if I push it down, the whole bike goes down, front and back together, maybe even "balanced", also, never bottomed out any of them. If I remember correctly from my MTB days where we would set preload/sag and that kind of stuff, this meant "pretty good".

On the last few months I've been getting more and more annoyed at my mechanic, and to be honest, for no real reason at all... Except that he was the one who sold me the bike and it had a ton of problems, hidden ones, sure, but he said "he knew her and its owner", he never promised me any warranty, but still... Disappointed at the very least, since I paid a pretty high price...

And then carburetor issues came back to bite me in the ass, and I decided that dude is never seeing the bike again. Couldn't freaking believe it, since the carburetor restoration was the most expensive thing I had done to the bike by far, it was more expensive than opening it up to .75 overbore with new pistons, valves, guides, seals, etcetera...

Bike would run fine until half the throttle, after half it would just burp and lose power. It started doing that after I came back from another one of my trips (this one was very short though, around 3 days, and I had drained the carbs and closed the petcock before I went out).
Drained the carbs, cleaned them, sprayed lubricant, took them apart, they were 10000% clean, still sprayed a little bit of carb cleaner, nothing worked. I even added a bit of 2 stroke oil to the gas (synthetic, motul 710, around 2ml/s per liter, very little). Also checked the foam filter, tried running the old one with no oil, tried running without it, no difference.

Talked to the place that did the restoration... They wanted me to take the bike to another guy that was VERY far, talked to said guy, he didn't want to give me a price for the check-up since the very least he'd need to do was valve adjustments before touching the carbs. I understand him, but I wouldn't take the bike there without having at least a "ballpark" figure, especially considering how far it was and that I would have to take the bike there, even riding on a highway of sorts with the bike in its state. I asked more than 3 times, no reply, ok, **** it.

At least the bike was running good and I could use it to go to my girlfriend's house and back.
I usually ride at low rpms (I try to stay over 2.5k rpm and below 4k) because there are SO MANY speed cameras around and if I stay on the "right gear" I go over the speed limit so easy I barely notice (most streets around here are 40km/h speed limit, aka 24mp/h), so I usually ride in 3rd/4th gear at these speeds, slow and steady, bike never complained.
So it wasn't really a big issue to me, if anything came up I would usually just downshift and do what needs to be done, but one day I was on a very uphill section of a "faster" street (50 km/h speed limit - 31mph) and I didn't downshift and just opened the throttle. It burped, it slowed down, made me nervous as hell and man did that hit the wrong nerves on my head, even if I was already aware of that issue.

This was just before Christmas, something like 19th of December, and I was at my lunch break (that ended up getting extended to almost 2 hours).
So I literally stopped, opened Google Maps and started doing a tour of all the mechanics and motorcycle shops on a 7km radius from my house. I already knew most of these places won't touch carburetors with a 10 foot pole, but I knew they always had someone to recomend. Went to around 10 mechanics, 2 of them said they could "take a look" for me, but 5 of them recommended me the same guy.
And he wasn't that far from me (just a little bit out of the radius I was comfortable going), it was around 3PM, so I said, **** it, lemme go visit.

Arrived there... And oh man, within seconds I knew I was probably at the right place.
Lots of XL350s, XLX's, old XR's, two Teneré 600's, two normal XT600E's, along with the obligatory CG125/150/160's, and a (to me) ginormous old GSXR-750... And a dusty Super Blackbird (CBR1100XX) that they turned on just as I was arriving... Oh my god, how that bike roars.

Told him the history of the bike, I also asked for a valve adjustment before anything (since the bike had basically 550kms since the rebuild, had already been adjusted at 250kms, but **** it, everything was new so probably wouldn't hurt) he wrote some of the stuff down, told me he'd call me.
The only thing I asked was if he'd be able to do it before the end of the year, and I was FULLY expecting only to see the bike again in January, he simply said "yeah, we'll call you".

On the morning of 24th of December, I woke up with a voice note from a random number on WhatsApp...
"Bike's done, come pick it up, we'll close for 30 days and I don't want your bike to be here"

Started working, 30 minutes in, called lunch, made sure my coworkers would cover me, and got in an Uber to the shop.
There the bike was, as beautiful as ever.
As soon as I arrived, dude said "[old mechanic] told you to take the carburetors elsewhere, didn't he?" as soon as I confirmed, he looked at another mechanic and went "Told you, that dude doesn't know anything about carbs"
He basically told me he had to rebuild the carb and do some other stuff to it using the lathe as the piston was going up much sooner than it should and excess fuel was being dumped into the engine.
I tried to pay for the repair, he wouldn't accept it and told me to "ride it first before paying, but take care".
Well, I stalled it in 1st gear getting out of the shop (too many people looking, I guess).
And I'm glad he told me to take care, because man... I can finally say for sure that the engine is running at the best it ever ran. Even the "lag" from accelerating is gone, it replies instantaneously, punches you in the chest, all that fun stuff. Wild. When I did a half turn and stopped to breathe and gather my senses to come back to the shop a random dude asked me if I wanted to sell it. Nah.

Paid for the repairs, and the bike is still going strong with no issues, seems very happy all around the rpm range. Still pops on decel around 2~3k rpm, but I'm putting that down to the old ignition coil and exhaust.
Well, one small issue. The center stand stop rubber has fallen off, and it started making noise. I already bought a new one and just zip-tied the center stand for now with a little piece of rubber from an old bike tyre I had laying around as a stop.

Other than that, I also finished my first thousand kilometers on it. As I write this, I have done 1046kms since I bought it, 701kms since the rebuild.

I'm waiting for the shop to open again on the 24th so I can take it there to install some protectors I got when I bought the bike, but I did install the engine fin protectors, check it out in the picture - I still gotta remove that red reflective tape and install the orange one, red just doesn't look good with the orange blinkers close to it.
Quite the journey to finally get it running right. Happy for you. (y)
 
Oh, and if someone has any tips for easily fixing the painting in this, I'm all ears:
View attachment 41210

I thought about using black nail polish but that seems like a bad idea.
I know around here we got some good quality spray paint cans as well, so my second idea was to just use masking tape on the HONDA letters and go for it with high temprature black spray paint.

If I end up going for the spray paint, I'll go ahead and also try to paint the side of the head cap, which SHOULD look like this, black in the middle:
View attachment 41211

One day I'll take the engine out and do epoxy, but that will take a while, won't happen before I buy a car (or a second motorcycle, who knows).

EDIT: Damn, I reached the 3rd page.
So it possibly can be done with the cover in place yet easier when off the bike. What I do is strip the black completely from around the Honda letters with acetone then carefully mask the rectangular recessed part of the cover right at the edge of where the black paint will sit. The whole cover needs to be completely masked to protect from the paint overspray Then I take a fine modellers paint stick which has a tiny ball shaped paint end. I use grease and carefully outline the raised silver Honda letters completely right to the edges. If any grease gets on the area to be painted black I have a second fine ball brush with some brake cleaner or paint remover ready in a small container to get the grease off that spot.
Once ready I spray the rectangular area with the black paint as you have done on the top cover. Let it completely dry and then remove the grease off the Honda letters with a Q tip and your done.
The advantage of removing the cover is it allows the aluminum area to be buffed to a nice shine and then cleaned ready for the paint work. Plus your working on a flat surface vs a vertical one. If you decide to buff the round aluminum area then protect the black paint on the outer area beyond the round silver disc area with a couple of layers of masking tape. It is easy to cut into the black area of the cover if your using a buffing machine and trying to buff out to the edges.

Here is the brush I use available at any model supply shop at least in Canada for painting small objects.

P1100327.JPG
 
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Oh, I forgot to mention on my post.
I also got the brushes on the starter replaced. One day all of a sudden (before I even got the carbs fixed) it wouldn't start, but started very easily when I bumped it, then it started just fine for a few days, then wouldn't start again.

Hit the starter with a rubber mallet, it started.
Replaced the brushes, no problem anymore.
So it possibly can be done with the cover in place yet easier when off the bike. What I do is strip the black completely from around the Honda letters with acetone then carefully mask the rectangular recessed part of the cover right at the edge of where the black paint will sit. The whole cover needs to be completely masked to protect from the paint overspray Then I take a fine modellers paint stick which has a tiny ball shaped paint end. I use grease and carefully outline the raised silver Honda letters completely right to the edges. If any grease gets on the area to be painted black I have a second fine ball brush with some brake cleaner or paint remover ready in a small container to get the grease off that spot.
Once ready I spray the rectangular area with the black paint as you have done on the top cover. Let it completely dry and then remove the grease off the Honda letters with a Q tip and your done.
The advantage of removing the cover is it allows the aluminum area to be buffed to a nice shine and then cleaned ready for the paint work. Plus your working on a flat surface vs a vertical one. If you decide to buff the round aluminum area then protect the black paint on the outer area beyond the round silver disc area with a couple of layers of masking tape. It is easy to cut into the black area of the cover if your using a buffing machine and trying to buff out to the edges.
Thank you very much for the tips.
I was going to try to do it with the side cover in place, but thinking about it, much easier to do with it off the bike.
Never though about using grease for this, but that's very smart (and I have lots of grease laying around), and seems much easier than using masking tape.

Probably going to take care of it when I do my clutch, since I'll have to remove the side cover anyway, I already bought the clutch arm seal and am still looking into the clutch discs. A lot of people recommended me to use the NX400 Falcon (RFVC) discs (apparently it uses the same discs, and the pack comes with one more than the CB needs) but I also found some aramid fiber discs that were very well recommended and are made for the CB.
No slips yet, and I never had to adjust it since I bought the bike (and put it basically at the end of its adjustment), so no pressure.
I'm also wondering if buying new aftermarket separator discs is a good idea as well. They come in all sorts of prices, but I don't know how good mine are so I'm not stressing about that either. Unfortunately, springs are not easily found (and I wasn't able to find compatible ones, although I'm 90% sure there are compatible ones out there).
 
The steels of the clutch rarely need replacing. The springs are identical for all of the SOHC 400/450 engines including your DX model.
+1 on the steel plates. If the clutch springs are available as Jim notes from Honda, go that route vs aftermarket. Whenever I do a clutch service I always replace the fibres if required usually with EBC brand parts and then check the steels for flatness and reuse. I always buy brand new clutch springs, regardless of how they measure out vs the Honda FSM spec. They are very inexpensive to buy new and just extra insurance when doing a clutch refresh.

Stay away from aftermarket HD clutch springs. I have heard of issues with the heavier springs requiring big POPEYE arms and wrists to pull the clutch lever. :unsure:
 
+1 on the steel plates. If the clutch springs are available as Jim notes from Honda, go that route vs aftermarket. Whenever I do a clutch service I always replace the fibres if required usually with EBC brand parts and then check the steels for flatness and reuse. I always buy brand new clutch springs, regardless of how they measure out vs the Honda FSM spec. They are very inexpensive to buy new and just extra insurance when doing a clutch refresh.

Stay away from aftermarket HD clutch springs. I have heard of issues with the heavier springs requiring big POPEYE arms and wrists to pull the clutch lever. :unsure:
Unfortunately I don't live in the US so the aftermarket HD clutch springs aren't even an option...
The steels of the clutch rarely need replacing. The springs are identical for all of the SOHC 400/450 engines including your DX model.
Yep, I'm aware, can't find any of them unfortunately.
I thought about looking into the NX400 Falcon springs, since it uses the same discs, however, it uses 1 more disc than the CB, so I'm not sure if it'd work.
I'm going to check with my new mechanic about what he recommends when the time comes, I'm sure he probably knows what springs work. He still isn't open, closed on Christmas for 30 days. Lot of respect for that.

In the meantime... Next oil change stuff arrived, along with a new clutch lever (I don't need one, but it was $1.50).
1736973160622.png
The "+" in the 5000 means it was manufactured here in Brazil, a bit different (you can see the bottle is also much simpler)
Going to take a leap of faith with this oil, I'm aware that the clutch doesn't play too nice with fully synthetic oils, but while this one is semi-synthetic, from my research, most of it is still mineral, so it should work, and should be much better than the oil I was using on the bike (brazilian Mobil Super Moto 20w50, the exact one the brazilian manual from the 80's recommends).
If it doesn't work... Well, the clutch already needed replacing anyway.

Now, to wait for the day that I have time to do the oil change. I like to leave it dripping for at least 3 hours so it usually takes an entire afternoon.
 
Hey, another update. Issues, everybody! I'm sure you'll be surprised.

Replaced the side stand to one which has that rubber thingy, had to remove the muffler so I also replaced the gasket on the left side muffler, which looked terrible. 2 hours later, found a leak on the right side muffler (same freaking gasket) - will fix it, but more important issues came up.

So, on the Motul 5000+ semi-synthetic oil... It's fine. No issues. Reaching ~900km on it.
A few weeks ago I put the bike on its side stand while leaving the house and it ended up being quite a lot leaning to the left (because of the street/curb), I was even surprised it didn't fall. I started it up and it smoked a little bit and stopped.
Checked oil a few times... No problem, hasn't gone down at all, and I never start it this way, I only did it this time so it could warm up while I closed the gate behind me. Only smoked for 2 seconds at best anyway, mostly on the right side (?)

After quite a few rain rides, the bike started shaking a little bit when I pulled the front brakes. It stopped on its own, and well, I only changed the oil on the brakes so a full re-do is in order.
OK, I planned it out for March. But that got canceled.

Issues.
A few days ago, I started the bike and noticed that the starter didn't stop when I released its button.
Turned the key off, starter still turning.
It ended up turning for quite a bit of time, more than 1 minute, until it stopped out of nowhere (I was already with a 10mm in my hand going for the relay).

In this process I managed to disconnect the wires from the neutral and also oil pressure sensor, which meant the bike didn't light up when I turned the key, very scary moment, but everything still worked fine after I plugged in the neutral and oil pressure sensor.

I checked all the fuses. All okay.
I cleaned all of the relay contacts, cleaned the starter button itself from the inside, took out the headlight and also cleaned the contacts on every connector.

After cleaning, I gathered the courage to use the starter again. First test I made was to turn off the key while the starter button was still pressed.
The starter button stopped just as I turned the key to off, which, to me at least, tells me the button itself was not the issue.

So I replaced the relay.

And a few days later, with the new relay, same problem again, but this time I was in a freaking gas station and instead of letting the motor spin, I put the bike in gear and held the brakes. It stopped after a bit and I swear I saw some smoke coming out from the relay area when it stopped. The positive cable from the battery to the relay was also warm, but the rest of the things were fine, and even the cable itself was not that hot.

Of course doing this I probably caused a lot of wear to the electric motor, it now sounds much worse than before. Still works though.

I put my head down, and went for a full electric teardown. And this idiot here had just filled up his gas tank.

Well. I removed the entire harness, headlight, and that side panel that holds the rectifier, lights fuse box and blinker relay. Took some time with a rag cleaning everything and also cleaning the conectors.
Then I inspected everything.

Lots of splices. Mostly on the lights, and a few on the rectifier (but this one I already knew).

The negative battery connector is starting to go. It broke through its insulation, but at least 70% of the copper wire is still good. I insulated it again, with electrical harness tape this time. (thanks @Maraakate) - I'll either replace it or just make a new one next month.
Same issue on the starter motor cable, starting to break right next to the connector, but this one is fine, 90% good. I insulated it again as well - I will make a new one for this one as well.

I also found a small "dent" on the key ignition switch (not sure if this is the right name) - on a certain wire, there was just a toenail exposed - It also already reached that stage where I can remove the key on the "On" position so I decided to replace it (although I admit it was convenient sometimes).

Ordered a new harness and a new rectifier (since I didn't want to do splices on a new harness). Rectifier and Harness are from the same reputable brand as well.
-New harness - Mine is just too old, brittle and almost solid. I tried to inspect it. Tried.
-New rectifier - I did not want to install a connector on the rectifier I already have, so I bought a new one, same decent brand as the harness. If push comes to shove and this rectifier doesn't last, I'll just use the connector from the new one on the old one.
-New key ignition switch - Same brand as the one that was already installed on the bike. New one is black though, fits better.
-New brushes and o-rings for starter motor - I don't even know if I got what it takes to do that myself, but I'll look into it tomorrow, when I finally get a day off.
-New rubber bushings for the handlebar - I already had bought these, so I just installed them, along with...
-New CB400N handlebar, the less tall one - After taking everything out... I noticed the left side had bent "in" towards me, more than the right side. Sigh.
-New exhaust gakests - Later. Maybe.

There are still a few splices on the lights, seems like the PO's mechanic hated crimping wires so he just spliced wires to smaller wires that had the plugs. I swear this is literally what is done on every single wire.

I'm still putting it all together now.

Yesterday was the whole handlebar with its controls and new bushings, as most of the stuff hadn't arrived yet.
Today I installed the new key ignition switch and installed the harness - Still gotta plug in all the lights and single plug stuff, thankfully I took notes when I was removing the old harness, so it should be... I won't say easy, but easiER.

Now, I wait for the rain to stop, and tomorrow I'm off work, so it'll be 100% bike time.

Still gotta plug in the battery and plug its cables to it, same for the relay.
Also still gotta figure out if I'm going to take care of the starter motor or not.

Wish me luck.
 
Getting the starter open is a bit tricky. You really need to put it in a vice and heat up the two long screws with a propane torch then use a t-handle #3 JIS to get it out or you risk rounding off the screw.

Those starters are pretty plentiful in the US and I'm sure they also are near you.

The only thing I could think of for why it was continuously running is that the long thick cable that goes to the starter probably has worn through just enough and was touching the frame sometimes. Maybe getting pinched by the motor mount in the front where it routes through?

Beware the o-ring. When I did mine I was told that the part number Honda uses gives you the wrong size o-ring. May or may not be true down in Brasil, no idea. If it is then I can look back at my notes and get you the measurements so you can order the correct o-ring from a supplier.
 
Could it be that the starter solenoid (what you called the relay) got stuck in the on position? The key switch and starter button would have no effect then. Solenoids are cheap to replace.
 
The only thing I could think of for why it was continuously running is that the long thick cable that goes to the starter probably has worn through just enough and was touching the frame sometimes. Maybe getting pinched by the motor mount in the front where it routes through?
Just to be clear, it had worn through very close to the relay (just before its connector) there was no chance it was touching the other side of the relay with the battery cable, but it could be touching the (painted) frame.
If it was, and that's a big IF, because I didn't find any "rubbing" or burned marks on the frame, would it do that?

I understand the frame is ground and the relay passes the "positive" from the battery when I push the starter button, but if that cable was shorting to the frame, wouldn't it just create the forbidden sparks while I was pushing the button and then stop after I let it go?

I checked the cable close to the starter and it seems to be in mint condition, but I will check again tomorrow to be sure, now that you said it, I don't remember meticulously going through it all.

Could it be that the starter solenoid (what you called the relay) got stuck in the on position? The key switch and starter button would have no effect then. Solenoids are cheap to replace.
That was my first thought, but I replaced it and it happened on the new one as well.

From what I read and theorized with a friend, for the solenoid to be stuck on the "on position" it'd have to have "micro-welded" itself on, a thing that shouldn't happen normally, so the bike would have had to be drawing more power than it should for that to happen, which would also point electric issues elsewhere.

I even replaced the main fuse when I replaced the solenoid/relay, it's originally 30A I put in a 20A fuse, and the issue happened again. No blown fuses, as well.

Getting the starter open is a bit tricky. You really need to put it in a vice and heat up the two long screws with a propane torch then use a t-handle #3 JIS to get it out or you risk rounding off the screw.

Those starters are pretty plentiful in the US and I'm sure they also are near you.

Beware the o-ring. When I did mine I was told that the part number Honda uses gives you the wrong size o-ring. May or may not be true down in Brasil, no idea. If it is then I can look back at my notes and get you the measurements so you can order the correct o-ring from a supplier.
I'm going to at least take it out and see what I can do with it.
The brushes were replaced less than 3 months ago by my old (now hated) mechanic, however, I don't think they've changed the seals and everything, so I took the opportunity to buy new ones, I also expect the brushes to have been replaced at least 2 or 3 other times before I bought the bike. So hopefully, it won't be too hard, but if it is, it's fine, I'll just give up and bring it to my trusted mechanic.

I can find starter motors new, some of them from good brands (same brand as my harness and rectifiers as well), however they cost quite literally 10x the price of the brushes, even if I do have to pay the mechanic to change them. And as much as I trust these brands, I'm not sure the motors would be as good as this Mitsuba one.
 
Ah yeah you're right it would probably just arc to the frame. My mistake.

Possible the wire coming out of the starter button is defective or the spring inside that switch is defective. Take a look as well.

Surprised you can get new starter motors. We can't over here. However, I'd imagine you can find a used one cheap where you are. They're pretty robust.
 
Surprised you can get new starter motors. We can't over here. However, I'd imagine you can find a used one cheap where you are. They're pretty robust.
God knows I regretted not buying the scrapped CB450 that I got the engine mounts from.
I didn't pull that trigger because I don't have space and they had already sold the engine from it... Which I heard was still sealed.
I could go after a starter motor from one of these scrapped bikes but then I'd also put at least new brushes on them as well, so if push comes to shove, I'll just buy a new one, maybe even take the new one apart and put their stuff inside the original.

I tried to figure out if the CB450 can use the starter from the CBX250 Twister (the DOHC single cylinder variant from the mid 2000s), engine mounts look the same but the rest does not, I also didn't find any brazilian info on it, so probably not.
 
You're overthinking the brushes. I thought the same thing too but I have 3 spare starters and I pulled them open and all of them had plenty of life left in those brushes.
Fair assessment, to be honest.
But they're already paid, and they're already here.

I just hope unfixable damage has not been done to the starter. It was really sounding kinda bad. I really don't know what happened to my brain to think that just forcing it stopped would do anything. I think I may have caused issues in the inductor, which would mean new starter.

Also, just out of curiosity, what's the name of this part in english?
1740709330238.png

In portuguese it's called "placa de partida" which roughly translates to "starter board", also called starter gear or "unidirectional gear" around here.
 
I still think you had an electrical problem with the solenoid or the wiring to it, like the starter button wire shorting somewhere. The new solenoid may be fried now too. You said you turned the key off and it kept running the starter. That's a serious short circuit there. All the sketchy wiring connectors you have are probably part of the original problem.
Maybe now you have a mechanical/starter problem from running the starter continously. I would only bench test the starter until all the other issues are correctly fixed
 
Yeah depending on the noise the rollers in the starter clutch may have worn down or failed from the stress. But I dont know how much abuse they can take.

But no need to get way too much future anxiety. Usually it's almost always something dumb.
 
Starter Clutch
The name makes much more sense considering its function.

I still think you had an electrical problem with the solenoid or the wiring to it, like the starter button wire shorting somewhere. The new solenoid may be fried now too. You said you turned the key off and it kept running the starter. That's a serious short circuit there. All the sketchy wiring connectors you have are probably part of the original problem.
Maybe now you have a mechanical/starter problem from running the starter continously. I would only bench test the starter until all the other issues are correctly fixed
I do believe it was the wiring to it, on the harness itself which I replaced.

I also checked the starter button, it's wiring and everything else, all clean, it's also pretty new, less than 1 year.
The solenoids still worked fine even after the issue.
Starter also still works, and fires up the engine just fine, just sounds kinda bad/different.

Yeah depending on the noise the rollers in the starter clutch may have worn down or failed from the stress. But I dont know how much abuse they can take.

But no need to get way too much future anxiety. Usually it's almost always something dumb.
Hoping for that. As far as I understand, I'd have to split the cases to get to the starter clutch and that's the number 1 thing I don't want to do.

Well, I started working on the bike today and plugged in most of the cables.

Haven't fired up the engine or spun the starter yet, but other than that, everything is working as it's supposed to, blinkers, oil pressure sensor, neutral sensor, rear brake light, all good.

Unfortunately though it looks like I won't have horns for a few days, the old harness had the horns spliced into it, new one has the connector. I already located a cable that should work but that will take some time to get delivered. All good though.

Just need to get the headlight in now, not looking forward to try to make that mess of cables fit into it.
 
The name makes much more sense considering its function.


I do believe it was the wiring to it, on the harness itself which I replaced.

I also checked the starter button, it's wiring and everything else, all clean, it's also pretty new, less than 1 year.
The solenoids still worked fine even after the issue.
Starter also still works, and fires up the engine just fine, just sounds kinda bad/different.


Hoping for that. As far as I understand, I'd have to split the cases to get to the starter clutch and that's the number 1 thing I don't want to do.

Well, I started working on the bike today and plugged in most of the cables.

Haven't fired up the engine or spun the starter yet, but other than that, everything is working as it's supposed to, blinkers, oil pressure sensor, neutral sensor, rear brake light, all good.

Unfortunately though it looks like I won't have horns for a few days, the old harness had the horns spliced into it, new one has the connector. I already located a cable that should work but that will take some time to get delivered. All good though.

Just need to get the headlight in now, not looking forward to try to make that mess of cables fit into it.

Yes and if you split the cases you will need to replace all the seals... and if you end up splitting the case you might as well do the balancer chain and the cam chain and... !

I don't have a copy of your sevice manual, but if you do then it should have a section that shows you cable and electrical connector routing. Including how that rat's nest of wires goes into the headlight.
 
Yes and if you split the cases you will need to replace all the seals... and if you end up splitting the case you might as well do the balancer chain and the cam chain and... !
And then might as well check every single crankshaft bearing/bushing, balance the crank (or just make sure it still is balanced), check the oil pump, put new clutch discs as well, and since the engine's out of the bike, might as well get it painted correctly, also, new gasket kit, find Viton seals [...]
I'm not affraid of many things, but this is definitely one of them. A lot of money and a lot of time without my main hobbie and way of transportation (who could've guessed that buying an 1989 bike as the first and only way of transport wouldn't be a good idea?)

I finished putting the bike together yesterday afternoon and took a few rides, more than 8 starts I gather.

No problem at all. I ended up not touching the starter, but I did tighten the cable nut on it, it was pretty loose. No other problems found on the cable, but I'll still replace it. It's getting pretty stiff as well.

The starter is sounding different but is working just fine, sounds a little bit slower but that's it, works exactly the same way as before.

Also, I ended up slashing through the electric tape armor on one of the splits of my original harness (I was trying to see if they buried the horn harness somewhere in there, but no, as expected, they just spliced it in)
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There was layers and layers and layers of electric tape, and it isn't wet, just sticky, but looks pretty bad. Glad I replaced it.

I don't have a copy of your sevice manual, but if you do then it should have a section that shows you cable and electrical connector routing. Including how that rat's nest of wires goes into the headlight.

Yeah, I checked it, unfortunately my bike is missing a few clips that hold the wire into the frame, but I just used some zip-ties creatively and got there in the end.

It was much easier to fit the nest into the headlight now that the cables aren't stiff as hell.

I also realized I didn't post a picture of her with the frame and engine protectors installed, here they are.

moto.jpg

Damn, this bike looks sexy. I changed the handlebars and also removed the plastic cover on the middle, will try to take some decent pics later.
 
Viton seals are unnecessary. I will say it's not worth cracking the case open unless you want to spend about $500 USD potentially on the seals, cam chain, cam chain slipper, balancer chain and gaskets. Only use OEM gaskets and seals on these. There's also a rubber grommet that goes over the dowel pins on the cylinder to the head and most (all?) gasket kits are missing these and it starts leaking in a short amount of time from the head. The oil cooler has two gaskets and they are very hard to find in the US and even in Europe. You CAN split the cases without disturbing the oil cooler.

The old harness tape will peel off sticky if you disturb it so not unusual. Not unusual for the starter cable to be rigid after 30 years. It'll very likely have its own position it's formed in. If you can find or make a replacement cable go for it, but otherwise as long as there are no nicks/gouges in it and the ends aren't corroded or broken then you can keep using.

Bike looks good.
 
Oh boy. Big update. So many things have happened. So many, in fact, I probably won't rememer them all and this post will have a lotta edits.

Well, first of all, I finally got my rider/driver's license, almost 1 exact year after buying the bike.

So, first things first, no more starter issues. I re-crimped the starter engine cable anyway, no more cracked copper. Rest of the cable seemed fine and not oxidized, thankfully.

Finally found the 1st and only issue so far with the new wiring harness: it does not have the terminals for the hazard light switch - Should still be pretty easy to hook one though, as all wires are present, there's just less terminals.

And my first electric gremlin:
One day the starter started not wanting to fire up, and for some reason the high beam lights on the panel turned on when that happened. I remember that had happened on the original wiring harness but only when I was in gear and with no clutch, this time I was in neutral though.
Pressed again, it worked.

Then I noticed the high beam light on the panel would have a very faint light whenever I turned on my normal headlight (not using high beams).
And then one day the headlight didn't turn on when I moved the switch, but the high beams light on the panel lit up.

I did what my instincts told me to do: I slapped the headlight, moderately if not lightly.

It turned on. Heh. I noticed the high beam spot on the panel was as always faintly lit, but then I noticed vibrations affected it.

I got my multimeter out next morning and traced the problem back to the ground coming from the bolt on the right side (brake pedal side) of the headlight. Have yet to fix that, I had a random wire with a double terminal so I just added that wire to the left side nut (the working one). No problems ever again. Still gotta fix the root of the issue though. Will get to it at some point. Sure. I wrote it down here so I can't forget it.

While I got that done, I wanted to test out a theory. While working on my girlfriends new appartment, I used a lot of these straight Wago 221-2411's and they worked beautifully, even for the electric shower:
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I saw a couple of people mentioning using them on cars with no issues so I thought, eh, why not, horn's not working anyway.
I had found a plug that was a match to the wiring harness horn connector, and it already had 2 wires as well, so I just put in the 2 wagos on them, connected them to the cable from the horns, tested and hoped for the best. If they disconnect, I know they don't work for this application.

That was a few weeks ago, so far, no issues, horn sounds very good. Don't use it that often to be fair.

And then it came time to decide if I was going to keep the bike, because if I was to keep it, this is where I'd spend all the money I saved these last few months to push the bike to what I'd call a finish line: no worn parts left. If I was going to sell it, I'd spend $30 on a detailed wash and put it up for sale, then use the money I saved + whatever I sold the bike for to buy another one.

It was frustrating dealing with that decision as I was experiencing a delay with my rider/driver's license, I had calculated by the end of April I would have already done some long rides, finally, but unfortunately that did not happen, I was at 2200kms, I don't even know how many oil changes, babying it but also giving it WOT when possible and touching the high rpms every now and then, and I did managed to sneak in a few twisties one night and another on holidays as well.

And I decided to **** it, just keep it.

So anyways, I once again spent a ton of money on the bike. Let me get the stuff I ended up giving back out of the way first.

New seat - I looked at a few pictures online and realised the rider's part of the seat on the CB is usually taller, and mine was already digging into the tank, so why not.
Well, I hated it. I ended up being way too high on the bike as the seat's foam was quite hard/stiff, everything felt weird, in less than 10 minutes riding I completely gave up on the idea. Packed it up, gave it back. My seat is just fine and it feels much nicer than that one.

New clutch separator plates/discs - Installed them, along with new friction plates/discs, slipped like hell. Took it all apart, decided to check. They're like 30%~40% slimmer than the ones that were on the bike, installed the old ones, everything's perfect, gave the ones I bought back to the store.

Ok, now for the stuff that did work/get replaced

Clutch:
New Friction discs - Got them from a good local brand. Worked beautifully, managed to zero the adjustment nuts close to the lever.
Also ended up finding out an interesting repair done on the clutch pressure plate? Can't confirm the english name.
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Number 9.
Anyway, there were two... Screws. Welded to it.
Took it to a machine shop, they removed them, cleaned, checked everything including if it was plain/flat/even, etc. They welded new machined bolts into it, following the sizes and tollerances of the original two pins that were intact. Not fun, REALLY not cheap, delayed some other stuff I wanted to test on the bike, but it was okay, thankfully this was one of the first things I tackled so it didn't delay things too much.
New clutch lever o-ring as well, because the old one was leaky.

Now for the stuff I paid my mechanic to do and check, because my day job was already being too much so I just wanted to ride on the weekends.

Brakes
3x Sets of pads from a very good, and very old local brand. Pretty old stock as well, they've been working amazing.
1x Front Master Cylinder from the same brand as the one on the bike - It was cheaper than buying a repair kit.
The mechanic also went through the brake calipers themselves, cleaning and restoring them - I did take one pic:
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He relayed to me that, of course, I should also look into new brake hoses. I'm going after real aeroquip/steel braided lines, not too easy to find for the CB450's these days, but I did manage to find a few kits, quite expensive. Will replace them on the next bleed.
Brakes felt weak at first, as expected, and are now very great, they don't brake more than before, but the levers are much more responsive and smooth, especially the rear brake.

Full transmission:

-Tires:
130/70-18
Pirelli Sport Demon on the rear - Semi-slick? Almost slick? I found it very good. I noticed the bike turns easier, and it really wants to lean sometimes, which was pretty scary especially in the first few kilometers with that new tire wax, it also does not come back to vertical as easy as the slimmer, terrible old tires - This also tells me I was already riding on the edge.

Old ones were 4.10-18 - "Maggion Rattler" - Mine were produced in 2017 and I saw the same tire being sold until very recently, but for some reason they still use the old standards. Anyway, terrible brand, known for being almost impossible to balance, and they were one of the weakest links ever since I bought the bike. It did make me learn its limits pretty quickly and respect the engine and tires, so hey, they served their purpose.

100/90-19 Metzeler Tourance on the front - Not too happy with this option, but there were basically no slick tires for this size around, so I just went for a good brand and chose the most rubber I could get.
I had previously heard that 120/80-18 was the maximum, but 130/70 fit just fine, no modifications needed, same for 100/90-19 on the front wheel. Got the idea from a couple of guys who installed CEAT/Royal Enfield tires on the bike.
Both tyres are tubeless, but the brazilian CB wheels are not equipped to deal with that (if I recall correctly, they do not have the lip), so they are running tubed - I do know some people do run them tubeless anyway over here, but I'm not one of them.
Balanced the wheels as well.

Old ones were 90/90-19 - Rinaldi R34's - Amazing tire, especially for the price, but also in general, I never liked their thread pattern too much as it was too "old school" for me, but they really worked and I not once ever lost traction on them, no matter the rain and conditions.

-Sprockets and the rest
-New cush drive
-KMC 530EX Chain - O-rings steal power, X-rings steal less, so X-rings it is. Price difference was less than $10 anyways.
-18T front/drive sprocket - 2 over the original 16t. Been running it for a few days now, and it works amazing, makes 2nd gear more usable and third longer. I'm pretty happy with the result. It definitely fits tight on the engine case but it works just fine.
-Original Yamaha Fixing Plate and screws - I thought the idea was funny, and it worked out. It's the original fixing plate for the Virago 250, which might mean it`s drive sprocket might also fit (and its drive sprocket is also 16t).
-36T drilled "Factory Racing" rear wheel sprocket - I had originally bought an original looking one, but they wrongly sent me the 4 hole one that at least here in Brazil is only used on the first few years of the CB400 and I needed the sprocket to arrive quickly, the ""racing"" one was the only option. It's fine, here's how it looks, it also doesn't have those "protector rails" of the original one.
1747796743756.png

And... 2 rear wheel bearings that were absolutely gone. The one that is closer to the sprocket was completely destroyed, mechanic showed me pictures of the removal but unfortunately did not send me, I guarantee you guys though... Stuff was in pieces. Bearing races in particular.

Other stuff that doesn't fit into any particular area:

-New swingarm plastic bushes
-Starter gear brushes as well as all o-rings and seal.
-New gasket for that leaky right side silencer. Can confirm, bike is much quieter and also has not stopped popping during decels. Amazing.
-Changed oil to imported Motul 5100 15w50 - Does not have recycled oil on it, unlike the locally produced Motul 5000+ 20w50 that I was using - Of course, new filter and filter cap gasket as well.
-New oil plug with a magnet on the tip - Ended up forgetting to install this one - Next oil change will install it.
-Installed original handlebars - Bought them from a better brand and installed them. I also installed the plastic cap again which was when I figured out the harness did not have plugs for the hazard lights. I already got used to them so I don't even feel it anymore, but I really want to go back to the CB400N/CB 250 Twister handlebars again, it made the bike much more agile. Also, SO MUCH EASIER to push and guide when off the bike, which really makes a great difference to me considering I always push it whenever going in or out of the house - Don't want to disturb people.
Well...
-New grease nipples - Old ones were, of course, torn off. Mechanic did fix it thankfully, here's a raw pic during the reassembly, before cleaning all the grease:
1747797677654.png
I didn't even notice this, he saw it, let me know and I approved it.

-Finally got around to installing that Fiat Magnetti Marelli external ignition coil. Worked perfectly out of the box, I had already checked which wire was ground and made the connector, all I needed was the bracket for it, which the mechanic made for me. No performance gains but surely no performance loss. Bike seems to start easier and now I can also use an iridium plug without going over 5k resistance. Here's a pic of how it looks under the tank:
1747798425553.png
Now I just gotta make or buy a cable that lasts long, as someone here (sorry, can't remember who) told me these automotive spark cables don't last too long out in the open.
Even if I don't find them, these cables are really cheap, and I kept the original ignition coil just in case.

P/N if any of you is interested: 0780002010
Here in Brazil these were used on the following cars up until around 94, when they started using one coil with 3 wires for all 4 cylinders: ELBA, FIORINO, PREMIO, SIENA, UNO, STRADA.

-------------- End of mechanic stuff.

Bike has been running fine, starting up easier, starter also sounds healthier and for now, nothing else has shown its ugly head other than the front brakes making a noise here and there. But then again my last few rides were on cold and very humid weather so its bound to happen. It made noises when it rained before, it'll still happen now I'm sure. Will look further into it on the next bleed when I also replace the hoses (which could also be the culprit).

I've been going on more and more rides, especially now that I can legally do it and not worry about police and it's been mostly a pleasure, I still usually prefer to ride through neighborhoods and not fast streets because getting to the destination quicker is usually not my objective, riding for more time with less cars close to me sounds like a good deal. Have gotten on and off a highway a few times but really nothing special, engine can handle the 110 km/h with no stress.

Unfortunately had an episode where I was tailed by a random car for more than 3kms which is a story for another post, but to make a long story short, I realized I couldn't go home because I'd have to get off the bike, turn it off, unlock the lock, open the gate [...], VERY fortunately, I had put my girlfriend's condo electronic gate controls on my bike key, so I just made a turn, turned off the lights and went as fast as I could towards her appartment, got in, checked, no cars on the road, that was it.

Not the worst experience I ever had on two wheels, I admit. Had to run away from the rozzers once on a motorized bike that barely made 2hp and that was much worse and longer (not doing anything wrong, but they were probably going to take it away from me just because it did not have plates and taxes), but it felt very real when I realized I was ****** if I went home. If I didn't have the gate controls, I'd probably just go as fast as I could until the tank ran dry.

On a better note, been riding more with the girlfriend and somehow she likes it. I absolutely hate riding on the pillow seat and I told her a couple of times I would never ride on my own but she seems to enjoy it somehow, and after the first 3 rides or so, I don't even feel her added weight on the bike anymore, damn happy with my choice to not start with a 125 in this regard.

Next week or so I'm planning to do a small trip to a café that is in the middle of some mountains, and the road there is full of twists, should be pretty amazing. Around 120kms total (getting there and back), about 2 hours, should be fun, my brother's also coming with me on his Daytona 675r.
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But that will be next week, because for this one I'm recovering from an eye injury that I did to myself with rubber and its elastic properties. Adjusting to different light settings hurts quite a lot.
 
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Sounds like you've got everything in hand now and riding for fun. Have a good run next week and let us know how it went.
Thank you! It has definitely been a journey, and now I consider the bike finally finished. Really looking forward to taking it out next week and finally catching some real roads.

Financially... Buying this bike was a damn bad decision, mostly because I paid quite high for it thinking it wasn't going to need any engine work done (as my old, bad mechanic reassured me back then), but I don't regret it.

Adding all I spent on it, it would round out to about R$30k, which is basically the price of a lightly used CB500 from 2019 or so - But the CB500 would cost me 3.5% of its total amount (about R$1K) each year just in taxes for 20 years (so literally 70% of the bike's value over time), bikes older than 20 years only pay R$90 per year for licensing, so the 450's fine.

I also took a few rides on my mechanic's Chopper CB400, no matter how many times I said no, mechanic would not take no for an answer and told me to take it home for a few days while he worked on my bike.
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He really wanted someone to ride it I guess lol. Seems damn proud of his creation, I stayed with the bike for 2 days and did about 80kms on it. Mechanic also knew I had no license so... I guess it was against everyone's better judgement.
If I recall correctly it uses a DAFRA frame (probably a korean/indian import bike) and a Honda Shadow swingarm, along with a CB360 front end if I recall correctly.

I hated the handlebars and especially the advanced footpegs but it sure was fun to ride, and kickstarting it is amazing - I already let my mechanic know I want to buy the kickstart parts off of him, he did not sell me them but is keeping an eye for any 400 engines/spare parts that come his way.
Apparently, on the brazilian 450's, all you need is the kickstart shaft and all its components along with a CB400 cover for the hole - some 450's even have the "bump" where the kickstart would usually reside, but not the hole, mine is flat though.
Looking on the internet, I found quite a few 450's where the kickstart was fit, I initially thought the footpeg support could cause trouble and get in the way, but that does not seem to be the case, thankfully.

Another thing that I found that I thought was pretty neat was this oil cap thermometer that is on the Chopper:
1747866154560.png
Mechanic told me this was an accessory made here in Brazil when the bikes were new, I'm sure the example from the pic does not work but man, it'd be cool to have one.
 
Heh, a small update for now.

I did the ride.

And it immediately made me come to terms with the fact that I'm really not the greatest rider when it comes to roads, my bycicle riding experience which helped me quite a lot on city riding REALLY didn't translate to riding on roads, and all the 2000km+ I had done was on the city.

Nevertheless, it was pretty fun, the road is known for its many curves and oh boy did I realize I didn't actually know what I was doing at like the third curve, turning over 60/70kph (40mph+) is quite a different experience, really had to get my sh#t together. I made the mistake of not bringing my phone mount so I really came into the curves blind, following my brother (who was on a Daytona 675r with 120+hp) wasn't exactly a good idea as he was mostly riding one handed at the speeds I was going and breezing through the turns (he knew the roads very well, hence why he was leading). I tried following him into a left turn at 100+ kph (62+mph) and that was my wake up call as, of course, I almost ended up in a random fence. Thankfully, I modulated both front and rear during the turn and saved myself, but I still went over the "turtles" (not sure what they're called outside of brazil) on the stripes at the right side.

There was also a big oil spill on the road on one of the last turns/curves before the café - right when I was feeling pretty comfortable. Thankfully I noticed my brother, who was constantly dragging knees, getting up and braking like crazy in the middle of the turn, I was already behind and slower so I went even slower and managed to avoid it.

Other than that, and another close call when I went into a turn thinking too much, no issues whatsoever, engine and bike (and me) seemed very happy to be blasting through turns and straights, not a single weird noise, I was so happy when we arrived at the café, I also noticed it was the first time my arms were a bit tired after riding.

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Wearing my rain jacket, because of course, my Texx Armor motorcycle jacket had not yet arrived.
Oldest bike there by 10 years, by the way - The other old one was a 99 Shadow 600, I was pretty proud.
Pretty great coffee, average food/cakes. Pretty much the same roadside restaurant experience I always have, not sure if that's universal or local.

When we were finished eating, we met an MT-03 rider who parked just beside my CB and had crashed on the way there. Thankfully the dude came out alright, broke a side mirror, scratched the radiator protection, and destroyed his crash bar (which fortunately was one of the good ones and had a roller bearing on it, and did not transfer all the impact to the frame), a lot of mud on the bike's rear end and got a few new ventilation holes on his riding suit, but nothing major. He just said his rear wheel went out, and he had to "let'er go", we told him about the oil spil very close to the café, he said it might be it.
Going back, we went very slowly until that turn, and noticed a big scratch on the road from his crash, the grass still pressed together where the bike ended up, seems like we were right.

When coming back, more relaxed, knowing we (me and the bike) could make it there without any issues, I also learned I'm not that great at managing RPMs when there's so much wind noise (I have a decent Bieffe B12 helmet but the wind still screams over 80kph (45mph), which leads me to not hear the engine, and I've grown so accostumed to the vibrations I barely notice them - The balancer seems to be doing a good job - (unless I'm really low on the RPM and get the "bad vibrations", hate those).

Since I couldn't hear the engine and there was barely time to look at the bike's panel, a couple of times I found myself on a higher gear than I should've been and all the bike could do even when giving it full throttle was keep the speeed but would not gain any, happened a couple of times especially going uphill, at first I just thought the bike was weak, but then some time later I checked the panel and there I was. 100kph at 3000~3800rpm.

I only actually realized that the problem was me once I stopped on the way back and realized it really couldn't be the bike as I pulled 140kph+ (85mph+) quite a few times very easily on the straights on the way there.

Then I also remembered about the bigger front/engine sprocket - which I still haven't completely gotten used to, it's been really cold so I've been riding less, much less at high gears/speeds, I'm used to what 1st/2nd/3rd feel like now but I very rarely use the 4th gear on the city, even less now with the taller gearing. IIRC by my calculations I could go until around 110/120kph (~65mph) on 3rd gear alone not really close to the redline, I've seen a guy pull 120kph, but I'm not sure if his sprockets were original. I want to stay away from the redline as well, because I've heard about piston rod problems if you push it too hard for too long (more than 3 people told me the same, basically). Peak torque is at 6.5k RPM anyway, so not really much advantage in the high rpms, I'm not racing anyone.

Already reaching the outskirts of my brother's city, I had to stop one time because my work alarm went off - I was off that day - And immediatelly after getting on the road again, I noticed something was weird, stopped again. Back tire had no freaking air, thankfully probably because of the new tubeless tire, the tire wasn't really being crushed, even when I was on the bike.
I rode about 6kms to a gas station very slowly and only on the good stretches of road, got there, tried to pump the tires and realized the valve was blown off, or at least all the air was coming out through the valve hole on the rim.
Well... The tubes were on the bike when I bought her and I forgot to tell the mechanic to change them when changing the tires... So anyway, tow truck it is.
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Tire is a bit crushed on the bike because of the way the bike is being pulled on the truck, you can also see the front suspension is very low. Beautiful pine trees on the background though, those are the symbol of my state in Brazil (Paraná)

Well, I changed both tubes, had to do it on my brother's city since it was closer (and much cheaper, especially considering the tow truck as it was sunday around mid-day as well) - And when I went to pick it 2 days later... Turned key on, lights came on, pressed the starter, all the lights went dark. Immediately got a multimeter from the mechanic who changed the tires, battery was dead, 6~7v.

I'm pretty sure the mechanic didn't ride the bike, at least not a lot, considering it only had 1km more than before, and my brother had to take the bike there anyway (he turned it on and pushed it feathering the clutch in 1st gear), but I'm pretty sure they had left the key on overnight, when I picked it up it was already on the bike as well.

I was more mad that he didn't admit to doing it, than mad at the fact that it happened (have done that myself once or twice), so I let it go, they did offer a free battery charge but I really didn't want to stay on that city for longer, especially without a bike.

Bumped it, started right up (once again, the kick would've saved me). Rode home, but there was a highway on the route so I had to turn the lights on, when I got home I turned it off, got my multimeter, 11.9v, rode a bit more with the lights off around the neighborhood, stopped home, 12.4~12.6v bike off.

Haven't checked since, but it started up everyday with no issues.

Also had to chase another electric gremlin, the low light wasn't working and because of that (I assume), the persistent brake light also wasn't working (the one who stays on, not the one who turns on when you press the brake).
Opened the headlight up, took the small bulb out, lined up the wires again, put it in, worked beautifully, both rear and front lights.

I also changed the clutch cable to one from a 2006 CBX 250 Twister (sold as the 200x CB250F around the world, carbureted, air cooled, dohc) and it worked much better with the low handlebar (also from the CBX250, but used on a lot of Honda bikes, seems to be the same as the one on the CB400N), feels borderline hydraulic now, it also has that "bend" at the handlebars which perfectly fits into the CBs original clip, also fits the original dust cover just fine:
1749760317965.png
When I said on the last post I put in a new o-ring on the clutch lever, I meant the engine's clutch lever - I also put in new handlebar clutch cases - I had bought a new lever as well but it wasn't rounded, so it felt much worse than the oldone, so I kept the old lever and put in a new case and lever screw (along with a decent amount of grease).


TO FIX:
Something's shaking on the front of the bike when I ride on bad streets/etc, I suspect it's the headlight's glass (I also held the panel while riding and it still made the noise), I noticed when I fixed the small headlight on the front that the clips weren't that tensioned, the glass could be pushed inside with not much strength. I have a few clips that came with the bike which were made with spokes from wheels, I'll try to put'em on and see what happens when I get time.

I'm also just waiting for the rear signals (already got a new pair) and/or rear suspensions to have a problem, since those are the only external parts of the bike that I haven't yet taken apart and fixed or replaced. I had forgotten that the damn tubes were from the previous owner, not making that mistake again

I also still want new springs for the front suspension, some came up but the reviews are not that great, still thinking about it, it goes down a little bit when I get on top of it, riding on decent streets is comfortable but on bad streets it's not that great. Also considering going 15W on the fork oil.

Still gotta put some preload on the back suspension, both sides are on the 1st level and I'm a big guy right now.
 
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Sounds like a great road trip with some issues that you overcame. I had to look up some you tube videos on "Rastro De Serpente" and it does look pretty gnarly but a lot of fun!,71 KM and I would be exhausted!
 
Hey! Small-ish update.

Did another mountain pass on the bike. This one was around ~180 kms in total, with some "historic stretches" where the road's made out of cobblestone - Of course, the bike vibrated quite a bit on those but overall it was pretty great.

I rode much better than the 1st time, a lot more sure about myself and my abilities. Too bad weather was bad so we didn't get to see the sea while on top of the mountains.

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Always the oldest bike by 10y+ wherever I go (unless it's a 2 stroke event). My brother's Daytona 675R also looking pretty slick. And of course, the HD's mixed feelings about those rich ******* bikes

My first mistake was that I didn't manage to calibrate my tires to the right PSI before going, all places I went to the compressor was out. Thought it should be okay since both tubes were just changed.

When I was coming home I finally found a gas station with a (supposedly) working compressor.

I usually run 30 on front, 32 on the back.

I plugged the compressor on my front tyre, and only heard the valve opening (letting air out of the tire), looked at the compressor - I saw 62 psi. Waited until it got down to 30 psi, rear tyre was at 38, fine.

Got on top of the bike, saw smoke coming out of my right hand. I mean, it is old enough to smoke.
Brake switch sensor decided to go. I believe it was probably the vibrations from the cobblestone.
1751593580078.png1751593602496.png
The little steel plates inside the brake switch were BLUE from all the heat.

This is on my new master cylinder, it came with a chinese random switch (which I stupidly did not replace with the old one), I already bought a Magnetron (reliable) one and replaced it, no issues since. I imagine the vibrations from the cobblestone did some damage to the little ball and plates inside the switch.

No more issues since, other than the brakes making some noise.

So anyway, I was on facebook marketplace and ended up buying 2 wheels because they were too cheap to pass. About 46 dollars. Saw there were brake rotors on them, instantly bought them. One brake rotor will go for anywhere from 90~150$. It had all 3 of them. If one was good, I was happy.

Well, front wheel's gone. But both rotors are like new, and they seem to be the "more recent" perforated ones.
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I talked to a pro welder that lives close by, he relayed to me it wasn't a good idea, so that is that. Still a shame, even its appearance was damn fine. The crack on it seems to be from pressures on the side, very weird - maybe crushed on a vise?

Rear wheel is completely fine though, just has no bearings or anything of the sorts (front one even had the dust seal):
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Something seems to have dripped on the rotor and on the wheel, but eh, should be easy to fix. Rotor is slightly more used than the front ones.

Not even a dent on the outside, I'm pretty happy with it. My rear wheel if I recall correctly has a small dent on the outside so I might end up replacing it for this new one.

I'm also looking into steel-braided brake lines (aeroquip) as well for it.

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Have to be careful plugging in the brake switch, it's really easy to have the female blade slip to the outside and and work because the plastic cover is holding it in place. If it slides on smoothly odds are it missed, there should be resistance plugging it in and removing.
 
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