My 1975 CB200T Restomod

The video you posted a couple of weeks ago made it seem pretty close. Can you post a video for the current happenings?

The choke isn't always needed to start a bike, especially in warm weather, which I'm sure you are experiencing in Georgia about now.

Float height can contribute to starting issues and you've had a couple of instances of over flowing bowls. Are you confident in the float height settings currently?
 
stl360+450 said:
The video you posted a couple of weeks ago made it seem pretty close. Can you post a video for the current happenings?

The choke isn't always needed to start a bike, especially in warm weather, which I'm sure you are experiencing in Georgia about now.

Float height can contribute to starting issues and you've had a couple of instances of over flowing bowls. Are you confident in the float height settings currently?
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Yes I can, I will get the videos off of my phone and upload them to YouTube this evening to share them. I'm not having the bowls overflow anymore, but I guess that could also be that they aren't filling enough as well.
NeverEverJamToday said:
You said in earlier post you are now kick starting because of sticky starter button. Can you elaborate regarding clutch not doing anything?
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I should have explained it better, pulling the clutch lever doesn't disengage the clutch. Putting the transmission into gear clunks because it's not disengaging the engine from the transmission, but it goes into gear and it turns the wheel under it's own power.
 
sp00xe said:
I should have explained it better, pulling the clutch lever doesn't disengage the clutch. Putting the transmission into gear clunks because it's not disengaging the engine from the transmission, but it goes into gear and it turns the wheel under it's own power.
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So when you say rebuild the clutch do you mean disassemble and reassemble or are you taking about redoing the case adjustment?

I'd start with the case adjustment and go from there.
 
sp00xe said:
Putting the transmission into gear clunks because it's not disengaging the engine from the transmission, but it goes into gear and it turns the wheel under it's own power.
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These transmissions clunk a bit when you put them into gear because of their design. Many of the gears are sitting still when you pull the clutch to put it in gear, but the splined gears on the mainshaft, and the corresponding freewheeling gears meshed with them on the countershaft, are rotating because of the primary drive so they clunk when slowed to a stop while engaging. They all do it to some extent, but if the clutch is slightly dragging it can make it louder. If the rear wheel spins freely while on the centerstand even with the clutch pulled, that is also normal simply due to oil friction on the clutch plates. With the clutch pulled (when properly adjusted), you should be able to stop the rear wheel turning by just holding your foot against the tire.
 
stl360+450 said:
So when you say rebuild the clutch do you mean disassemble and reassemble or are you taking about redoing the case adjustment?

I'd start with the case adjustment and go from there.
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I was thinking of disassemble and put in new friction discs and springs, and clean up the steels. I'll start with an adjustment.
ancientdad said:
These transmissions clunk a bit when you put them into gear because of their design. Many of the gears are sitting still when you pull the clutch to put it in gear, but the splined gears on the mainshaft, and the corresponding freewheeling gears meshed with them on the countershaft, are rotating because of the primary drive so they clunk when slowed to a stop while engaging. They all do it to some extent, but if the clutch is slightly dragging it can make it louder. If the rear wheel spins freely while on the centerstand even with the clutch pulled, that is also normal simply due to oil friction on the clutch plates. With the clutch pulled (when properly adjusted), you should be able to stop the rear wheel turning by just holding your foot against the tire.
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Excellent explanation guys, I really appreciate it! I've only tested it on the center stand. I'll start with an adjustment, then I'll test it again and try to stop it with my foot.
 
I use the rear brake pedal for that since I have better touch with the pedal.

When I first set up the clutch on my CB350 it took a few tries to get the case adjustment just right and that was with new friction plates.
 
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