Yes, it needs a larger jet to make up for the increase in air. I'm not going to end up putting them on this bike, I've decided I want to keep this original as possible. I'll probably keep them for another bike or just sell them.
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My 1975 CB200T Restomod
- Thread starter sp00xe
- Start date
Went and pulled the headlight out. Looks like the solid black wire is disconnected. I believe AncientDad’s theory about the kill switch being bad is correct. I’ll have to source another or figure out if I can just repair this one.
I’ve got the rotor bolt on order, but I still need to get the tires sorted out. I’ll have to look in the manual on how to remove the front wheel.
I’ve got the rotor bolt on order, but I still need to get the tires sorted out. I’ll have to look in the manual on how to remove the front wheel.
The black with white that seems to come from the right handlebar switch wiring is clearly visible and plugged into something there, though it's hard to tell because the wires aren't spread out enough to see all of it. I'd have expected to see the black with white that goes from the right handlebar switch unplugged and the main harness end of it plugged into solid black, bypassing the kill switch and feeding switched 12v to the coils anytime the key is on.
Makes sense, I did read somewhere that the condenser failing can cause a always on spark, but I'm not sure how accurate that is, it doesn't seem accurate to me anyway.
Top priority for the bike has shifted to getting the tires on it. We finally found a house to buy and will close in November, so I won't be buying anything else for the time being.
Life comes first, of course. We'll be here when you come back to the project. Good luck on the closing.
2BrokeBikes
Veteran Member
Congratulations on the new house!
Thanks guys!
Pulled the rear wheel off this evening to check out the tube. I realized my mistake putting it on when there were a ton of pinches all down the side
. I've got a new rear tube on order and should be here next week. I started tackling the front wheel, but it seems the axle is in there pretty good. I've got it soaking in WD40 and I'll try again tomorrow evening to get it out. In taking apart the bike to get the wheels off, I noticed the mufflers on both sides have significant rust holes in them. I'll have to source another set, preferably a good set from another bike over buying new replacements from somewhere like those guys in Houston.I do have to retract my previous statements about the motor not having any oil in it. I decided to pull the dipstick today again just because and it's got oil in it, it's a good color too, not black or burnt. Leads me to believe it was ridden before it was parked, but it missing the rotor bolt is confusing. It does make me more optimistic however.
Finally got the front wheel off, axle didn't want to come out but after some WD40 it was convinced. I have a replacement tube coming Wednesday and then I'll have the tires sorted out. Next stop I need to figure out how to get the tank off, I see how it slides but something is still retaining it and I'm not seeing a bolt anywhere unless I'm blind.
Another question I have is where is a good place to buy the brake pads for the front caliper? I have seen pads for CB350s and other bikes, but nothing specific to CB200s.
Another question I have is where is a good place to buy the brake pads for the front caliper? I have seen pads for CB350s and other bikes, but nothing specific to CB200s.
I suspect the tank is just stuck on the rubber mounts, there are 2 "pucks" on posts in the frame (#18) where the front attaches and the metal tab off the back of the tank sits in a rubber strap to hold it down (#19).
Yes, grab the tab on the rubber strap at the back of the tank and carefully pull backwards and lift a little bit, then lift the back of the tank out of the rubber strap. With the fuel lines off you can then slide the tank backwards and off the frame.
Some good news today, I was able to get the tires back on with new tubes, so it'll roll now without hassle. I also got the tank off, replaced the ignition coil, plugs, caps, and starter solenoid. Electric starter works great now, as well as the horn . Going to clean up the frame some and get the fuel hoses replaced, change the oil and it should be ready to try to fire. Still needs some things before it'll be ready to ride but I at least want to get it running. I did notice the replacement condenser I got from 4into1 has the wrong connector on one side, so I ended up reusing the old one until I can get the correct one in. Some visuals from working on it today:
. Going to clean up the frame some and get the fuel hoses replaced, change the oil and it should be ready to try to fire. Still needs some things before it'll be ready to ride but I at least want to get it running. I did notice the replacement condenser I got from 4into1 has the wrong connector on one side, so I ended up reusing the old one until I can get the correct one in. Some visuals from working on it today:
2BrokeBikes
Veteran Member
I recently got a new reproduction condenser for my 175 project and had the same issue, one male and one female connector when what I needed was two females. A little internet research found that condensers don’t have polarity, so I just replaced the male connector with a female and it worked just fine. Someone with more knowledge please correct me if I’m wrong.
I noticed too the bracket to mount it to the cover doesn’t have a large enough hole. I’m just gonna order the correct part from those guys in Houston along with the correct points.
I’m also considering getting a Sprack regulator/rectifier before I get any deeper. But I may just see if it runs before I go that far.
Well it's been awhile, school, work, and moving have kept me busy, but I'm back after fixing up the 200.
It looks good sitting there
Since I last posted, I replaced the clear fuel hose with the correct size regular rubber fuel hose, got both tubes in without pinching them, put fresh drain hoses on the carbs, replaced the fuel petcock with a new one, changed the oil, and attempted to fire it. Only to find out the carbs won't hold gas at all. So, I went ahead and ordered a complete rebuild kit for both carbs
I got them off during the week on a lunch break to begin tear down, and discovered why the carb wasn't happy
This is the left carb, it's pretty gnarly, I've got some Purple Power I'm going to dilute and run it through my ultrasonic cleaner and see what I can get cleaned without too much agitation. I'll scrub if I have to however.
I'm hoping after rebuilding these carbs I can get some life out of the engine, then I'll start buying other parts the bike needs to actually be ridden, chain, bearings, etc.
One thing I am concerned about is stopping, I can find brake shoes for the rear all over, but is there somewhere to buy the front brake pads?
Also, assuming I get the bike running, I'll need to find a new set of mufflers, I'd prefer a OEM set but I'm finding that difficult, are the aftermarket options any good? And do they bolt up like the factory pieces?
It looks good sitting there
Since I last posted, I replaced the clear fuel hose with the correct size regular rubber fuel hose, got both tubes in without pinching them, put fresh drain hoses on the carbs, replaced the fuel petcock with a new one, changed the oil, and attempted to fire it. Only to find out the carbs won't hold gas at all. So, I went ahead and ordered a complete rebuild kit for both carbs
I got them off during the week on a lunch break to begin tear down, and discovered why the carb wasn't happy
This is the left carb, it's pretty gnarly, I've got some Purple Power I'm going to dilute and run it through my ultrasonic cleaner and see what I can get cleaned without too much agitation. I'll scrub if I have to however.
I'm hoping after rebuilding these carbs I can get some life out of the engine, then I'll start buying other parts the bike needs to actually be ridden, chain, bearings, etc.
One thing I am concerned about is stopping, I can find brake shoes for the rear all over, but is there somewhere to buy the front brake pads?
Also, assuming I get the bike running, I'll need to find a new set of mufflers, I'd prefer a OEM set but I'm finding that difficult, are the aftermarket options any good? And do they bolt up like the factory pieces?
Richard Pitman
Veteran Member
David Silvers do ( assuming they still have stock ) British made pattern silencers, same ones for both the 175 and 200 bikes. I have a couple of sets. They are OK, with some reservations. They are baffled rather than straight through absorption type mufflers, and are thus relatively quiet, although louder than the stock parts. Welded seams are a bit crude, doesn't bother me but would be noticed by the concours guys. Chrome plating is excellent. They fit the stock header pipes, as in my CB175 photo below, or with Silvers pattern header pipes, which are only single skinned, with obvious mandrel bends. I did have issues with a couple of these silencers, internal baffling coming adrift and rattling. I fixed the first one by inserting a self tapping screw through the silencer wall into the baffle. Second time this happened I returned the silencer to DS for a replacement.
Those look good, I’ll see if I can get a set. I’m not a huge fan of the sets similar to what those guys in Houston has, it just looks far from factory and Id like to restore this to original as possible.
I got the left carb cleaned up, there’s a ton of gunk in the emulsifier tube. After searching for just the tube it’s more cost effective to just buy another set of rebuild kits from those guys in Houston. Still missing the drain plug, mine is plugged up pretty good however I don’t think that matters.
View attachment IMG_3732.jpeg
Bowl looks much better as well
Everything still needs more scrubbing, but we’re getting somewhere.
I’ll be ordering the other kits for the emulsifier tube, then once those come in I’ll wrap up the carb rebuild.
I got the left carb cleaned up, there’s a ton of gunk in the emulsifier tube. After searching for just the tube it’s more cost effective to just buy another set of rebuild kits from those guys in Houston. Still missing the drain plug, mine is plugged up pretty good however I don’t think that matters.
View attachment IMG_3732.jpeg
Bowl looks much better as well
Everything still needs more scrubbing, but we’re getting somewhere.
I’ll be ordering the other kits for the emulsifier tube, then once those come in I’ll wrap up the carb rebuild.
Those kits are going to be problematic.
Outside of the floats and the seals the brass is terrible. You are far better off cleaning the existing parts and re-using them. They’ll clean up just fine with a chem dip soak.
There’s a couple of internal passages on that carb that get clogged with the crustys - getting the gallon dip can and just chucking them in overnight will help with that.
Outside of the floats and the seals the brass is terrible. You are far better off cleaning the existing parts and re-using them. They’ll clean up just fine with a chem dip soak.
There’s a couple of internal passages on that carb that get clogged with the crustys - getting the gallon dip can and just chucking them in overnight will help with that.
Tony Clifton
Veteran Member
What EzPete said...aftermarket carb kits contain little of value. Also, non-OEM carb bowl gaskets are especially worthless...they are too wide and don't fit right. Carefully clean the old brass and reinstall...the new brass is not dimensionally correct and they don't work, specifically the jet needle.
Repeating myself on this forum, don't rely on chemicals to clean anything...you need tiny wires, a loupe and a strong light to ensure completely clean jet passages. As Hans and Franz would say, "Hear me now and believe me later!" heh
Repeating myself on this forum, don't rely on chemicals to clean anything...you need tiny wires, a loupe and a strong light to ensure completely clean jet passages. As Hans and Franz would say, "Hear me now and believe me later!" heh
What stuff do you recommend? I'll pick some up tomorrow, I want to get the carbs cleaned up and reassembled this week if I can.
Yeah, I've got some wire brushes, wire pipe cleaners and similar to get in there and really clean everything out.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
You can often find Berryman's Chem-Dip in a metal bucket at auto parts stores. There is a tray inside that allows you to drop stuff in and pull it out easily.
- You want to avoid putting any rubber parts or gaskets in the dip.
- Disassemble what you can and soak different parts individually, e.g., jets, carb bodies, bowls, screws.
- It is important to clean off the chem dip after pulling out the parts. The dip can clog things up if it's not rinsed off properly before assembly. I guess you could use brake cleaner, carb cleaner, etc. for this step.
+1 on the Berryman Chem-Dip gallon. Don’t bother with wire brushes - they’re too fat. Guitar string, unraveled braided copper wire, and a small piece of unraveled brake cable or the like. All jets need to be clean enough to see a full moon of light through them. The idle jet will look like it’s not drilled through - it is, it’s just mad hard to clean. After the soak, it’s carb spray through everything - don’t forget the vents and all the passages between jet holders, etc. then compressed air. Those little desk cleane/dusterr cans work great for that, you can use the little plastic straws to really blast passages clear.
Make sure the slides move super freely - if they hang up at all, that’ll be WOT on that cylinder.
They can really fugly, but they clean up and work just fine without shiny chineseum.
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Picked up a can of the Chem-Dip, sunk the first carb into it. View attachment IMG_3737.jpeg
View attachment IMG_3738.jpeg
I popped the bowl off of the right carb last night just to see, and it’s more of the same gunk.
So it probably was good I grabbed this stuff. Hopefully I can get the carbs reassembled before I go out of town for the weekend.
View attachment IMG_3738.jpeg
I popped the bowl off of the right carb last night just to see, and it’s more of the same gunk.
So it probably was good I grabbed this stuff. Hopefully I can get the carbs reassembled before I go out of town for the weekend.
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At least it hasn't dried out and started corroding the aluminum yet. That muddy stuff cleans up rather easily in comparison.
Make sure your float valve needles still have some spring to them - might take a bit to loosen up. Once everything is soaked, it's a quick and easy assembly. It'll really help if you grind a flathead screwdriver or T-handle bit to the exact size of the slot in the jets, avoids tearing them all up.
Make sure your float valve needles still have some spring to them - might take a bit to loosen up. Once everything is soaked, it's a quick and easy assembly. It'll really help if you grind a flathead screwdriver or T-handle bit to the exact size of the slot in the jets, avoids tearing them all up.
You already posted this above.
Yeah I was on mobile and it seems that it posted a second time when I opened my browser again. Please delete it.
I’ve got a screw driver bit that fits inside there perfectly. This really isn’t all that different from rebuilding the carb I used to have on my Camaro. Just smaller scale.
Got the carbs cleaned up and reassembled, I've got my pod filters on for now as the stock airbox boots are torn on my set. I put one size higher jet in to accommodate for the for the extra air the pods provide. I'll likely find another set of carbs to rebuild and new airbox boots so I can return it back to factory. I've put the washer and some safety wire on the arm that connects the chokes as well.
I was hoping to get them on today and see if I could get the bike to run, but I didn't have time to get to it, next week I'm hoping to hear it run.
I was hoping to get them on today and see if I could get the bike to run, but I didn't have time to get to it, next week I'm hoping to hear it run.
I replaced the points today, as well as the condenser, set the timing, and did the synchronization of the carbs. I also moved the ignition cylinder back from the bars to the factory mount. I discovered the electric starter button is worn out and needs to be replaced.
I let it run more today, it revs up and down to 7k easily, however it will not idle at all. I have the slides in the correct place, however I need to set the mixture screws correctly. My suspicion is I'll end up pulling the carbs again and triple checking all of the jets are clear. I'm also not sure if these bikes are supposed to have a decent amount of vibration or if it's got a misfire, I'm learning towards the bike has a misfire.
Next on the list is a valve adjustment, new chain, and I need to fix one of the exhaust studs, it's in there but it pulled a couple threads out with it when I pulled the header off to redo the rear tube. We have a vintage car/bike show on the 9th here in town and I'm hoping to have it running and moving well enough to make the ~1/4 mile trip there and back.
I let it run more today, it revs up and down to 7k easily, however it will not idle at all. I have the slides in the correct place, however I need to set the mixture screws correctly. My suspicion is I'll end up pulling the carbs again and triple checking all of the jets are clear. I'm also not sure if these bikes are supposed to have a decent amount of vibration or if it's got a misfire, I'm learning towards the bike has a misfire.
Next on the list is a valve adjustment, new chain, and I need to fix one of the exhaust studs, it's in there but it pulled a couple threads out with it when I pulled the header off to redo the rear tube. We have a vintage car/bike show on the 9th here in town and I'm hoping to have it running and moving well enough to make the ~1/4 mile trip there and back.
NeverEverJamToday
Veteran Member
If the insulators on the gauges are hard/bad , the vibration can propagate through the whole bike. Solved that issue by putting strips of bicycle inner tube at the mounts. Not even the mirrors vibrate anymore.
Helicoil it with new post, and jbweld. Ended up having to eventually do all 4 on mine.
More good news today, I figured out the vibration was from a misfire because of a poorly seated exhaust header due to the damaged exhaust stud. I got that fixed and it's smooth now. I was able to ride it down the driveway some before it stalled out, I think the throttle cable gave up finally. I don't get much movement on the slides anymore, I found CMSNL has a new Honda part, but I'm trying to source one in the US. There's a vintage car/motorcycle show coming up here in town on the 9th I'd like to take it to.
Still fighting the idle, but I'm going to ensure I have the carbs set properly before I pull them again. I have a new chain on the way, as well as fresh exhaust gaskets, I haven't done the valve adjustment yet but that's on my list to do when I pull the tank for the throttle cable.
Still fighting the idle, but I'm going to ensure I have the carbs set properly before I pull them again. I have a new chain on the way, as well as fresh exhaust gaskets, I haven't done the valve adjustment yet but that's on my list to do when I pull the tank for the throttle cable.
I pulled the carbs today, ran a wire through the idle jet circuit and made sure the idle jets weren't clogged, also replaced the exhaust gaskets. I still can't get it to idle, I've not noticed even at WOT on the controls it won't go past 4k RPM now, where before it would.
I haven't pulled the tank yet to inspect the cables, but I'm guessing I have a combination of a worn out throttle cable and jets too big in the carb. I've ordered new grips, throttle plastics and a new cable, it might not be the problem, but I'm fine with replacing it anyway. When those come I'll pull the tank and make sure the valves are set to the appropriate lash, and pull the carbs again and go back down to the factory jets.
I should probably surmised I was going in the wrong direction when the bike wouldn't just start and idle at all. It always takes 4-5 kicks of the kick starter before it'll start, hot or cold. I stopped using the electric starter because the button sticks and will keep the starter motor turning.
I haven't pulled the tank yet to inspect the cables, but I'm guessing I have a combination of a worn out throttle cable and jets too big in the carb. I've ordered new grips, throttle plastics and a new cable, it might not be the problem, but I'm fine with replacing it anyway. When those come I'll pull the tank and make sure the valves are set to the appropriate lash, and pull the carbs again and go back down to the factory jets.
I should probably surmised I was going in the wrong direction when the bike wouldn't just start and idle at all. It always takes 4-5 kicks of the kick starter before it'll start, hot or cold. I stopped using the electric starter because the button sticks and will keep the starter motor turning.
It's been awhile, but I've gotten quite a bit done. I had a mishap with a couple of the valve adjustment covers, broke two of them trying to get them off to adjust the valves, got them all replaced with a new set with fresh Orings.
Not sure how I broke these, but I did eventually get them off. I tightened these down after I finished with the valve adjustment.
I put back in the factory slide needles and jets in the carbs along with putting the factory air intakes back on, Idles like a dream now.
Also did the Sparck Moto Regulator/Rectifier upgrade
Was pretty easy to install, and it's nice and hidden behind the factory airboxes.
Put new grips on, didn't realize they were going to be too short when I ordered them, but oh well it'll be fine. I got a new Honda throttle tube, and did a new throttle cable at the same time. Redid the points completely with new parts and set the timing again. I put a new chain on and got the rear wheel adjusted, had to replace one of the adjuster bolts as it was bent. Also spent most of Friday evening and half of today getting the bike completely reassembled. Was able to get it started back up and it will idle really well now, I need to re do the carb float adjustment, I messed with it when I did the jets and the carbs flood now.
As far as next steps to being on the road, I need to do the float adjustment, cotter pins on the axle nuts, replace the headlight as after 50 years it's given up finally, and last I need to get a set of mirrors, GA requires mirrors and a headlight always on.
I'm going to be working on cleaning it up over time as well, one of these days when I have another bike to ride I want to do a full tear down and rebuild of the entire bike and restore everything.
This week I'll get it registered, and then the 27th and 28th of June I take the MSF to get my motorcycle endorsement. I'm hoping to be able to take it up and down the street a few times just for familiarity before going to the course.
Not sure how I broke these, but I did eventually get them off. I tightened these down after I finished with the valve adjustment.
I put back in the factory slide needles and jets in the carbs along with putting the factory air intakes back on, Idles like a dream now.
Also did the Sparck Moto Regulator/Rectifier upgrade
Was pretty easy to install, and it's nice and hidden behind the factory airboxes.
Put new grips on, didn't realize they were going to be too short when I ordered them, but oh well it'll be fine. I got a new Honda throttle tube, and did a new throttle cable at the same time. Redid the points completely with new parts and set the timing again. I put a new chain on and got the rear wheel adjusted, had to replace one of the adjuster bolts as it was bent. Also spent most of Friday evening and half of today getting the bike completely reassembled. Was able to get it started back up and it will idle really well now, I need to re do the carb float adjustment, I messed with it when I did the jets and the carbs flood now.
As far as next steps to being on the road, I need to do the float adjustment, cotter pins on the axle nuts, replace the headlight as after 50 years it's given up finally, and last I need to get a set of mirrors, GA requires mirrors and a headlight always on.
I'm going to be working on cleaning it up over time as well, one of these days when I have another bike to ride I want to do a full tear down and rebuild of the entire bike and restore everything.
This week I'll get it registered, and then the 27th and 28th of June I take the MSF to get my motorcycle endorsement. I'm hoping to be able to take it up and down the street a few times just for familiarity before going to the course.
NeverEverJamToday
Veteran Member
Othen
Veteran Member
Nooooo! Please don’t convert it into a cafe racer - it is a lovely little motorcycle the way it is.
Alan
Alan