1974 CB360 rebuild, guidance on key switch / kill switch / elec. starter

[Andrw_w]

I am having a few electrical issues, and I am honestly not sure if I am misunderstanding something, or overlooking something or really overthinking it. So kinda just looking for general guidance on what to check for two things....

1. New 4into1 Key switch - starter works in accessory? but not in ignition position?

• seems to show off, [unidentified but seemingly accessory], and ignition as switch positions.
• in 2nd position, all lights and accessories come on, and I can hit the starter button and hear the solenoid engage and bike attempts to start
• in 3rd position, which seems like it is the ignition position, starter button doesn't work but tail light seems to come on.
• Does this mean my switch is wired for off, accessory/ignition, and park? Or do I need to dig deeper and re-wire or resolder the key switch?
• I don't really have a preference for what I need it to be, just trying to understand what is working as it should, vs needs more investigation

2. Right control box, kill switch off/run/off - doesn't seem to kill electrical start ability - those guys in Houston right control switch, brand new as well

• Narrowing this down to the starter circuit I understand from those guys in Houston there were multiple ways for this to be wired into the harness based on the age of the bike and how it was originally wired.
• red/yellow to red/yellow matches up. No issue there. If unplugged, no work, as expected
• the other half of that circuit, green red, is being recommended to be frame grounded, or in certain wiring scenarios it goes to 12v+ pos. For mine, the starter circuit works when grounded.
• Prob worth noting that I don't have the safety neutral switch as far as I can tell. Prob not the most important detail here, but figured I'd include it.
• The bigger issue, is that the kill switch knob allows me to activate the electric starter in both off positions and the run position.
• I guess question 1, would be is this how this is supposed to work?
• I know the kill switch is supposed to keep the bike from running, but not sure if that also includes keeping the starter from attempting to turn the bike over
• My little experience on running bikes thus far would say its not supposed to do that?
• I'm still a few steps away from having bike in working order so i can't really test if kill switch will shut bike off when running

Thanks in advance, and apologies if these don't make sense or need clarification ( I tried )

 

[LongDistanceRider]

Your ignition switch is set for Off, Ignition and Park. Key should be removable in the 1st and 3rd positions.

 

[MrPepper]

Like above, your key switch sounds ok. Position 2 is the normal run position.

Pos3 is tail only, no power to ignition.

Similar, the kill switch kills the spark so if the engine turns over (kicker or starter motor) then it won't fire

You can test by hooking up a plug and visually checking for spark

 

[EzPete]

Let’s start with which wiring diagram you’re working from - are you running off the FSM diagram? Or some alternative posted on the interwebz?

Second - what kind of condition is your main harness in and what components outside of the key switch have been replaced?

 

[Andrw_w]

Your ignition switch is set for Off, Ignition and Park. Key should be removable in the 1st and 3rd positions.

Great, thanks. Nice to have confirmation!

 

[Andrw_w]

Like above, your key switch sounds ok. Position 2 is the normal run position.

Pos3 is tail only, no power to ignition.

Similar, the kill switch kills the spark so if the engine turns over (kicker or starter motor) then it won't fire

You can test by hooking up a plug and visually checking for spark

Ok! That makes so much sense! And prob why I was confusing myself with tracking down issues! I’ll double check and run some tests next time out in the garage!

 

[Andrw_w]

Let’s start with which wiring diagram you’re working from - are you running off the FSM diagram? Or some alternative posted on the interwebz?

Second - what kind of condition is your main harness in and what components outside of the key switch have been replaced?

I am trying to stick to the Honda factory service wiring as much as possible for the build, I’m not confident in my skills enough to make it up or follow randos. What is FSM?

That being said, I actually just replaced my harness with a new Sparck motor harness. I was dealing with enough inconsistency from whatever last owner did and enough insulation was cracking I just figured I’d make like the rest of the bike and replace what can while it’s in pieces.

Honestly, catching up on the difference between early 360 and later 360 harness was interesting. Technically I can handle both now, but I had an early harness and just added parts to support the front brake switch. That blew my mind that it wasn’t included in early models.

 

[ancientdad]

I am trying to stick to the Honda factory service wiring as much as possible for the build, I’m not confident in my skills enough to make it up or follow randos. What is FSM?

FSM means Factory Service Manual

That being said, I actually just replaced my harness with a new Sparck motor harness.

Good choice, Sparck Moto is top quality for the best prices on everything he sells, and the owner is also a member here who gives great support for his products. Any questions for him can be started by mentioning VHT member @Sonreir

Honestly, catching up on the difference between early 360 and later 360 harness was interesting. Technically I can handle both now, but I had an early harness and just added parts to support the front brake switch. That blew my mind that it wasn’t included in early models.

Honda was coming out of a short period where they tried a switch built into the front brake cable on non-disc models, but it didn't work very well so they went to the lever perch switch soon after.

 

[EzPete]

I am having a few electrical issues, and I am honestly not sure if I am misunderstanding something, or overlooking something or really overthinking it. So kinda just looking for general guidance on what to check for two things....

1. New 4into1 Key switch - starter works in accessory? but not in ignition position?

• seems to show off, [unidentified but seemingly accessory], and ignition as switch positions.
• in 2nd position, all lights and accessories come on, and I can hit the starter button and hear the solenoid engage and bike attempts to start
• in 3rd position, which seems like it is the ignition position, starter button doesn't work but tail light seems to come on.
• Does this mean my switch is wired for off, accessory/ignition, and park? Or do I need to dig deeper and re-wire or resolder the key switch?
• I don't really have a preference for what I need it to be, just trying to understand what is working as it should, vs needs more investigation

2. Right control box, kill switch off/run/off - doesn't seem to kill electrical start ability - those guys in Houston right control switch, brand new as well

• Narrowing this down to the starter circuit I understand from those guys in Houston there were multiple ways for this to be wired into the harness based on the age of the bike and how it was originally wired.
• red/yellow to red/yellow matches up. No issue there. If unplugged, no work, as expected
• the other half of that circuit, green red, is being recommended to be frame grounded, or in certain wiring scenarios it goes to 12v+ pos. For mine, the starter circuit works when grounded.
• Prob worth noting that I don't have the safety neutral switch as far as I can tell. Prob not the most important detail here, but figured I'd include it.
• The bigger issue, is that the kill switch knob allows me to activate the electric starter in both off positions and the run position.
• I guess question 1, would be is this how this is supposed to work?
• I know the kill switch is supposed to keep the bike from running, but not sure if that also includes keeping the starter from attempting to turn the bike over
• My little experience on running bikes thus far would say its not supposed to do that?
• I'm still a few steps away from having bike in working order so i can't really test if kill switch will shut bike off when running

Thanks in advance, and apologies if these don't make sense or need clarification ( I tried )

OK - so if you're running off the stock diagram and sticking to that, it should be pretty straightforward. It sounds like the key switch is wired correctly with off/run/park settings.
On the RH control, some photos of the connections would help there. If memory serves, there's two black wires on that aftermarket replacement, and one routes the power through the kill switch and back out via the white/black down to the coils. If those blacks are switched, everything in the RH side will function, except the kill switch. It does not, however, do anything with the starter circuit - it just interrupts the power to the coil.

I asked about the wiring diagram because there is no scenario in which the red/green should be connected to the battery 12V+ or any switched 12V+. That is a ground for the magnetic switch in the solenoid. It is intended to route to the neutral light switch, only allowing the starter to trigger if the bike is in neutral - I'm surprised that CM (well, not that surprised) had unclear info here. If you do run it straight to a ground, just be aware that you can hit the starter button while in gear and the bike will jump.