1970 CL450 K3 Rebuild

[bald&pale]

I think I have a healthy dose of 'proceed with caution' now.

Waiting on a couple hollow dowels to arrive. I have no clue what I did with them. I looked in every parts bag. I know they where not lost under my work bench because they were still in the upper half of the case in my photos of the tear down. I'm sure I'll find them as soon as bottom end is buttoned up.

I dry fit the shift drum roller assembly last night and noticed that the ball bearing can't be pressed into place with just my hands. What is this proper way to seat that bearing?

 

[ancientdad]

I dry fit the shift drum roller assembly last night and noticed that the ball bearing can't be pressed into place with just my hands. What is this proper way to seat that bearing?

Are you referring to the ball bearing on the end of the shift drum? It is a snug fit, I never remove them unless there's a need to replace either piece.

 

[bald&pale]

Are you referring to the ball bearing on the end of the shift drum? It is a snug fit, I never remove them unless there's a need to replace either piece.

That's the one. I remember needing to tap on the other end of the shift drum to remove it. I don't have a socket or pipe large enough to match the diameter of the outside race. I'm guessing the right way to do it would be to assemble the shift drum, bearing, detent star, and neutral detent so that I can tap on the flat neutral detent to help seat the bearing?

 

[EzPete]

Seat from the inside race - still kind of the same problem of a really awkward size/placement. You definitely don't want to seat it using the engine case as the backing though - aluminum is too brittle for that.

 

[bald&pale]

Seat from the inside race - still kind of the same problem of a really awkward size/placement. You definitely don't want to seat it using the engine case as the backing though - aluminum is too brittle for that.

That is exactly my concern. I just had an idea. I wonder if I can press it into place slowly with a screw clamp rather than tapping with a mallet. I think I will try that first.

 

[EzPete]

If it came off without too much persuasion, it should go back on the same. Just make sure the surfaces are clean and lubed.

 

[ancientdad]

That is exactly my concern. I just had an idea. I wonder if I can press it into place slowly with a screw clamp rather than tapping with a mallet. I think I will try that first.

You might be thinking the bearing should sit flush with the crankcase - it does not. This is fully seated prior to removal.

 

[bald&pale]

Very helpful info AD! Thank you.

 

[bald&pale]

I am at a point where I feel comfortable buttoning up the bottom end today. The center bearing cap is torqued, cam chain is on, transmission installed, and made sure that all knock pins are fully seated. Before I add hondabond, I wanted to share some photos to get a final check from you all.

 

[EzPete]

You’re likely going to want a thin coat of Honda bond on the outside of those bearing race surfaces on the upper case.

 

[ancientdad]

I am at a point where I feel comfortable buttoning up the bottom end today. The center bearing cap is torqued, cam chain is on, transmission installed, and made sure that all knock pins are fully seated. Before I add hondabond, I wanted to share some photos to get a final check from you all.

I'd advise putting all the seals on shafts and clutch rod in place before putting the lower case on, better than driving them into the case later only to have one or more "skinned" during the effort and allowing the clutch rod seal to pop out more easily later. Put a thin smear of Hondabond all the way around the clutch rod seal outer surface to ensure it stays put later.

 

[bald&pale]

Thanks ExPete. I'll do that. I just realized that I think I have the outside left (right side in photo) crank bearing on the wrong way. There is an oil passage showing but no matching passage on the bottom half.

Will do AD, Thank you. Is there a consolidated torque spec file that you could share?

 

[ancientdad]

Will do AD, Thank you. Is there a consolidated torque spec file that you could share?

there might be somewhere here, but the FSM has the torque specs and honestly, I never use a torque wrench for the 6mm and 8mm bolts in the crankcase halves, just good "feel" on the ratchet. The crankshaft center cap bolts and head/cylinder studs are the most important areas for a torque wrench.

Jensen posted a torque value sheet in this thread:

torque specs

Hi all, I'm finding the '68-75 factory manual doesn't contain much in the way of torque specs--am I missing something? Ditto Clymer's. For example, am reassembling front wheel and find nothing for either the axle nut or the brake disc mounting bolts. Or the axle holder nuts, for that matter...

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