1966 Honda CL160 commissioned build

ballbearian said:
No 5/16" ball on 150 0r 160, only 305/250. Not sure on 175 sloper or upright.
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Ok, so to confirm there is no ball bearing in there on the CL160 adjuster? My adjuster was empty of any ball bearing, yet no surprise there if it was missing from a PO intervention.
It shows a ball bearing on the CB/CL160 parts fiche in that spot, yet the pocket bottom is flat in design. Where the adjusted I have which maybe from my CL77 or CB350F model as an extra part was a longer length and deeper pocket. It also has a concave spot in the pocket for the steel ball to sit correctly. This CL160 has a flat pocket design, which is a better design for for the flat end of the long clutch rod.
 
ballbearian said:
My parts book shows no ball. I would be curious to see your parts book showing this.
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That’s weird. I was running off CMSNL and it’s there as well. Part 16 - heck, I even ordered one when I was doing hardware because they have them on the auto side for a quarter.

IMG_1853.jpeg
 
That is weird. Not exactly the same drawing as my book either but very close. The later non- sloper vertical may have had it as did the 350s.
 
Possibly another one of the “late style/early style” things with this model. Throw in the 160D-kit scramblers and it’s kind of a mess.

Hopefully, with all the various 160 projects that are running right now we can isolate out some by engine number series.
 
So Pete your motors seemed mostly complete and maybe unmolested. Did you or can you check the adjuster to see if there is a ball in there on your bikes please.
The design of the adjuster base doesn’t seem to support a ball bearing in that spot.
 
I've owned my bike for almost 20 years and there’s always been a ball in the adjuster.
cb160.jpeg
I just looked at the cmsnl website and there are 2 lifters and 2 adjusters and the parts change at 1045780
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Amannl said:
I've owned my bike for almost 20 years and there’s always been a ball in the adjuster.
View attachment 51786
I just looked at the cmsnl website and there are 2 lifters and 2 adjusters and the parts change at 1045780
View attachment 51787View attachment 51788
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What year is your bike?

The engine on this bike has had the serial number removed and messed up. All I know is the interior crank shaft had a starter clutch on the rotor.
 
The poster who started this question in another post hasn’t come back here to confirm what he was dealing with initially. At least you can confirm your motor did use the steel ball bearing. As I noted this CL160 adjuster is a different design than the other clutch adjuster part I have in stock. That one has a deeper concave section for the steel ball to sit into the same spot.
 
Flyin900 said:
What year is your bike?

The engine on this bike has had the serial number removed and messed up. All I know is the interior crank shaft had a starter clutch on the rotor.
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It’s titled as a ’68 and has a 1966 year tag on the wire harness, and the engine serial is 10637xx.
The fork sliders are steel and it has a nippon seiki speedo, not a Fuj, but who knows what was changed before I got it.
 
Here’s mine. 1058172 serial number. Pardon the years of gunk. This engine is nasty inside and I haven’t gotten to everything yet.

IMG_1859.jpeg

The flat end is the lifter/adjuster side, and that cup is flat as well.

I haven’t cracked the case on the other one - sprayed some PB in it just now and I’ll take a look when/if those screws loosen up.
 
Amannl said:
from a cb160 and cl160 parts book…
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Very cool parts books, I wish we had those in Library. My CB 125 &160 book is so old (Nov,11,1964) it has the old parts number scheme, but yours uses the same drawing as mine, just has the additional #24 part (the ball).
It would be helpful to see the accompanying parts list pages, to see what other parts were changed at certain serial numbers.

My bike is B160-1013524, 64 on harness and 39.12.4 (64,12th,April) ink stamp in Rear hub. Motor is B160-1013302.
 
EzPete said:
Here’s mine. 1058172 serial number. Pardon the years of gunk. This engine is nasty inside and I haven’t gotten to everything yet.

View attachment 51789

The flat end is the lifter/adjuster side, and that cup is flat as well.

I haven’t cracked the case on the other one - sprayed some PB in it just now and I’ll take a look when/if those screws loosen up.
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So Pete was there a ball bearing in the cup of your adjuster? When you get to the other motor it will also be interesting if it has the same setup with or without the ball bearing.
 
EzPete said:
Here’s mine. 1058172 serial number. Pardon the years of gunk. This engine is nasty inside and I haven’t gotten to everything yet.



The flat end is the lifter/adjuster side, and that cup is flat as well.

I haven’t cracked the case on the other one - sprayed some PB in it just now and I’ll take a look when/if those screws loosen up.
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Part variation dimensions and serial number changes may be a good sticky thread going forward, at least for these crazy 160s.
 
Here are the parts numbers that accompany the drawings I posted yesterday, and CB page shows the ball was added to bikes after serial number 1047580.
IMG_4951.jpeg
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Flyin900 said:
So Pete was there a ball bearing in the cup of your adjuster? When you get to the other motor it will also be interesting if it has the same setup with or without the ball bearing.
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No bearing. That’s why I ordered one, but looking at it - I don’t think there ever was a bearing.
 
mike in idaho said:
I've owned three 160s, over the years, all three had a bearing ball in the clutch lifter mechanism.
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Mike, I agree as you have experience with the bike. Yet the poster in another post couldn't get his engine side cover back onto the engine with the ball in there. That said he hasn't been back, or responded to his original question. He did note he had the clutch apart too, so maybe there was an issue with his reassembly that was causing the problem.
What I question is the interior of the CL160 adjuster is flat just like the end of the clutch rod. On another Honda adjuster I have from a different model which is a little longer. The interior pocket of the adjuster is deeper with a formed concave spot for the ball bearing to fit into. The CL160 adjuster has a shallow pocket with no formed section for the ball bearing
 
EzPete said:
No bearing. That’s why I ordered one, but looking at it - I don’t think there ever was a bearing.
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Pete, when you get the other motor cover off it will be interesting to see if there is a bearing in there. I also feel the ball bearing is an odd addition yet as Mike noted he has had 3 bikes all with the ball bearing. This bike as I noted is the poster child for missing parts, so no way I will trust anything on the bike period!
 
If the clutch lifter has been apart, it's possible to get get it re-assembled the wrong way around, half a turn out. There are reference marks on the adjuster and the engine side cover that you line up for a starting position to adjust the clutch. The clutch cable length needs to be adjusted first, so the lower cable end and the release arm form a 90° angle, with the clutch lever pulled back to the grip, adjusting the clutch lifter last (to set the cable free-play, at the lever) this gives the best mechanical advantage, for smooth action and easiest pull.
 
Here is a good reason why this hobby and eBay sellers have turned me off. This is the left side motor case clutch adjuster spring that controls the inner arm action as the clutch cable is pulled in and out off the handlebar lever.
This is a $5.00 item at best if available from Honda. Here it would be a $85.00 Canadian part once shipped and paid for from this seller. He isn't alone as most sellers who have this part are around the same price. Time to rework the damaged one that came on the adjuster lever cover.

www.ebay.ca

NEW Genuine OEM Honda CA CB 160 175 Clutch Lever (1) Spring 22815-216-010 -ONE!! | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEW Genuine OEM Honda CA CB 160 175 Clutch Lever (1) Spring 22815-216-010 -ONE!! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
 
Flyin900 said:
Here is a good reason why this hobby and eBay sellers have turned me off. This is the left side motor case clutch adjuster spring that controls the inner arm action as the clutch cable is pulled in and out off the handlebar lever.
This is a $5.00 item at best if available from Honda. Here it would be a $85.00 Canadian part once shipped and paid for from this seller. He isn't alone as most sellers who have this part are around the same price. Time to rework the damaged one that came on the adjuster lever cover.

www.ebay.ca

NEW Genuine OEM Honda CA CB 160 175 Clutch Lever (1) Spring 22815-216-010 -ONE!! | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEW Genuine OEM Honda CA CB 160 175 Clutch Lever (1) Spring 22815-216-010 -ONE!! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
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Looks like something you could get at the hardware store for a couple bucks in the specialty bins.
 
Flyin900 said:
Here is a good reason why this hobby and eBay sellers have turned me off. This is the left side motor case clutch adjuster spring that controls the inner arm action as the clutch cable is pulled in and out off the handlebar lever.
This is a $5.00 item at best if available from Honda. Here it would be a $85.00 Canadian part once shipped and paid for from this seller. He isn't alone as most sellers who have this part are around the same price. Time to rework the damaged one that came on the adjuster lever cover.

www.ebay.ca

NEW Genuine OEM Honda CA CB 160 175 Clutch Lever (1) Spring 22815-216-010 -ONE!! | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEW Genuine OEM Honda CA CB 160 175 Clutch Lever (1) Spring 22815-216-010 -ONE!! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
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Dorman throttle return spring. The CX and GL use the same thing in the shift mechanism and it’s inside the case (routinely ruined when you pull the back panel off and forget it’s there).

It’s got the right spring tension (perhaps a bit stiff), but all you have to do is trim the really long and and make a hook. $3 at most of the auto parts boxes.
 
The post was more about the greed of some vendors when what their selling isn't a must have item. As you both noted any handy person can figure out a work around at a realistic cost.
I cut down and modified the original OEM stretched out one. It is quite a bit shorter now so there are less coils. It works so far on the cover in a hand check of the adjuster action. I will decide once it is all back together if it functions correctly.
 
Pete, That was a great suggestion on the shifter mechanism that is part of the inboard splined shaft for the gear shift lever attachment. Someone worked their magic on the splines of the outer shifter shaft. It is partially stripped in the splines and a nice groove cut into the spline area for likely a screw or small round rod to assist the retention of the gear shift lever.
I found a reasonably priced replacement which is on its way from the USA. So I can use that spring off the rear fork that engages the internal shifter drum.

It looks about the right size and tension of the spring.

The mangled spline area.

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The spring off the rear of the shifter assembly. (y)

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Amannl said:
Here are the parts numbers that accompany the drawings I posted yesterday, and CB page shows the ball was added to bikes after serial number 1047580.
View attachment 51790
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I missed your reply here. It looks like the earlier bikes didn’t use the ball in the adjustment mechanism. I suspect that serial number quoted in the parts book is the motor? My frame serial number is visible while the engine one was ground off and replaced with some gobbly gook which is all backwards.

So I checked my frame and the engine number. The frame will be the most accurately correct while the engine is a best guess. They are both in the CL160-10260XXX frame or L160E10240XXX engine range. So that would likely indicate it was part of the early batch of bikes that didn't use the ball bearing in the clutch adjuster.
 
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Thanks Mike. Its great to have someone who worked at the Honda dealership back in the day. I just hung around there occasionally.
 
What exactly are you trying to find in the way of an air filter? When I looked at CMSNL it seems that the filters for the CL160 were exclusive to that model. I have some old filters that I think may have come from CB175 but not sure. If they are of any use I'd be happy to take a closer look.
 
Troy said:
What exactly are you trying to find in the way of an air filter? When I looked at CMSNL it seems that the filters for the CL160 were exclusive to that model. I have some old filters that I think may have come from CB175 but not sure. If they are of any use I'd be happy to take a closer look.
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Yes I would appreciate that if you could. The left side is what I need presently. I think the CB/CL175 and the CB125 filters will work. Since I sold the CL175K0 I can't reference that one to this frame.
I took a chance on the CB125 (R) filter from CMSNL, as it was on sale and it fortunately lines up perfectly with the frame mounting points. I won't be able to check the carb alignment until I am at that stage of the build. The CB/CL175 filters look pretty well the same as I recall in their design and fitment.
If you have one that is reasonably decent for the left side where I can hopefully still use the original media after a decent cleaning that is my choice. I do have the part saved in search engines on a variety of sites.
 
If you're looking for CL160 air filters, there's a few US eBay listings for both right and left for $100 USD. The same vendor had 3 listing but I purchased one set myself! They're used but provided they are in decent shape, I think they'll last a while before having to rip out the paper filter and wrapping with foam like some people have done on here.
 
Makes me wonder if there are any out at Wheel Sports if used ones are acceptable. They sure wouldn't cost $100
 
rocky said:
If you're looking for CL160 air filters, there's a few US eBay listings for both right and left for $100 USD. The same vendor had 3 listing but I purchased one set myself! They're used but provided they are in decent shape, I think they'll last a while before having to rip out the paper filter and wrapping with foam like some people have done on here.
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Do you have a link as I don’t see anything when I search EBay
 
oldjeep said:
Makes me wonder if there are any out at Wheel Sports if used ones are acceptable. They sure wouldn't cost $100
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I just need a decent cleanable used one if available. I have a brand new RS one from CMSNL purchased recently. They don’t have a LS one available and I cannot find one on any sellers site. The used ones noted above I do not see on EBay as the poster noted. A link to the seller would help.
If you know of any or are at a bike breakers yard it would be helpful for sure. They really don’t exist in my area anymore.
 
Flyin900 said:
I just need a decent cleanable used one if available. I have a brand new RS one from CMSNL purchased recently. They don’t have a LS one available and I cannot find one on any sellers site. The used ones noted above I do not see on EBay as the poster noted. A link to the seller would help.
If you know of any or are at a bike breakers yard it would be helpful for sure. They really don’t exist in my area anymore.
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Try calling these guys - https://www.sportwheel.com/
If they have it and won't ship I could pick it up for you, they are nearby
 
oldjeep said:
Try calling these guys - https://www.sportwheel.com/
If they have it and won't ship I could pick it up for you, they are nearby
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Ok the eBay listing doesn't come up on the Canadian site. I did look at those you linked and sent an email to the EBay seller as the LS I think is the one that has the fairly beat up pleated paper. I also sent an email to and called Sport Wheels. He is going to look for the part it may take a few days.

Much appreciated, as anything under $100 is a win for sure. I did just get notification that your shipment has cleared customs and will be shipped to my home later this week. I will paint the kickstarter if it won't buff up decently. I appreciate that part you sent as every piece helps move this project along.
 
Flyin900 said:
Ok the eBay listing doesn't come up on the Canadian site. I did look at those you linked and sent an email to the EBay seller as the LS I think is the one that has the fairly beat up pleated paper. I also sent an email to and called Sport Wheels. He is going to look for the part it may take a few days.

Much appreciated, as anything under $100 is a win for sure. I did just get notification that your shipment has cleared customs and will be shipped to my home later this week. I will paint the kickstarter if it won't buff up decently. I appreciate that part you sent as every piece helps move this project along.
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Might take a while to look through the piles ;)
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Flyin900 said:
Better get the mice, gophers and groundhogs involved. They probably have a good handle on where the air filters are. :unsure:
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Best time to visit is in the early spring when it drys up. The old honda area isn't too bad, but this time of year the back acres have 4-5ft tall weeds.
 
I have ordered a replacement internal engine gear shifter shaft from California. It will be another week before it arrives, so I took apart the clutch and oil pump again to remove that sketchy original shaft.
Today Paul and I installed the barrels back on the engine and routed the new cam chain correctly through the tensioner assembly. :D The left liner was an aftermarket replacement with no lead in chamfer on the base on the new liner. It presented a little challenge to get the rings into that cylinder. Four hands made it easier though.
So strange how someone spent some money on the new pistons and rings and an overbore and liner. Then cheaped out on the valves and head work.

A little progress today.

P1110084.JPG
 
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Make sure the chain is routed correctly inside the tension wheel and inside the push pad. That was the big screw up on mine when found. Hard to tell when it's all together but the chain will slap and gouge.
7og20Pu.jpg
 
It has been routed as you have noted BB. It will still gouge the wall by the tensioner adjuster if the engine adjustment isn’t done in a timely manner. Every head I have seen all have had some level of gouging on all four engines of this series that I have done. This one has some slight gouges too in the internal cylinder wall.
I changed the cam chain for that reason, as I suspect the cam chain was not replaced with the prior work done in the cylinder work and overbore.
 
Flyin900 said:
It has been routed as you have noted BB. It will still gouge the wall by the tensioner adjuster if the engine adjustment isn’t done in a timely manner. Every head I have seen all have had some level of gouging on all four engines of this series that I have done. This one has some slight gouges too in the internal cylinder wall.
I changed the cam chain for that reason, as I suspect the cam chain was not replaced with the prior work done in the cylinder work and overbore.
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Hope your tension adjust lock bolt is in good order too. Another frail design feature.
 
A few tidy up pieces today that are part of the engine case outer aluminum covers. Joe had these left over from his 1968 CL175K0 Sloper build, so they will fit perfectly. The stator cover is a little newer design lettering of the Honda script vs the original CL160 cover. Both of the original ones that came on the bike were cracked and badly scraped in a few spots. They were repaired by someone with silicone sealant on the inside of those covers.
The light switch needed some TLC, so I took it apart and cleaned and lubed it again. I removed the black electrical tape covering the internal wiring and sleeved them with the correct grey outer covering. I polished the aluminum hardware/levers and their brackets. I replaced all the hardware bolts with new correct parts that I stock.

Still a long ways off from needing these yet. I do like the parts cleaned and ready to bolt on though, ready for when the time comes.


P1110089.JPG
 
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Flyin900 said:
A few tidy up pieces today that are part of the engine case outer aluminum covers. Joe had these left over from his 1968 CL175K0 Sloper build, so they will fit perfectly. The stator cover is a little newer design lettering of the Honda script vs the original CL160 cover. Both of the original ones that came on the bike were cracked and badly scraped in a few spots. They were repaired by someone with silicone sealant on the inside of those covers.
The light switch needed some TLC, so I took it apart and cleaned and lubed it again. I removed the black electrical tape covering the internal wiring and sleeved them with the correct grey outer covering. I polished the aluminum hardware/levers and their brackets. I replaced all the hardware bolts with new correct parts that I stock.

Still a long ways off from needing these yet. I do like the parts cleaned and ready to bolt on though, ready for when the time comes.


View attachment 52151
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Those look great. Now I'm going to have to buff my levers and switches, sheesh, more work :ROFLMAO:
 
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