Nick, you may not have given this bike the concours treatment, but you have certainly gone over all the details... definitely looking forward to seeing the finished product after all you've done. 
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1963 CA95 Restoration
- Thread starter nabs
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nabs
Veteran Member
Nick, you may not have given this bike the concours treatment, but you have certainly gone over all the details... definitely looking forward to seeing the finished product after all you've done.
Thanks Tom,
by the way I took advantage of a top tip of yours from another forum the other day when I used this mini grease gun to force the old grease from my front suspension bolts. It is brilliant, and my old massive grease gun is now relegated to simply filling up the mini version.
This one is made by the tool maker Beta. Fellow brits can get one on Amazon for a mere £14
PS I discover from this video that Beta should be pronounced "Better" not "Beta". Who knew? I also thought they were English, not Italian, so clearly I was pretty confused about this one!
nabs
Veteran Member
horn
belated repairs on the marvellous Mitsuba horn: the plastic insulation around the terminals was cracked in several places so I used some epoxy to fill the gaps. It appears that the terminals had been made watertight by white silicon(?) grommets - long since disintegrated - so I used a couple of hole punches to make a couple of washers from some silicon sheet and glued these to the inside of the housing.
PS It appears the ornate horn on the 1963 bike is actually a simplified version of the predecessor, which had a wonderful snail shell shaped resonance tube. Good work Mitsuba!
belated repairs on the marvellous Mitsuba horn: the plastic insulation around the terminals was cracked in several places so I used some epoxy to fill the gaps. It appears that the terminals had been made watertight by white silicon(?) grommets - long since disintegrated - so I used a couple of hole punches to make a couple of washers from some silicon sheet and glued these to the inside of the housing.
PS It appears the ornate horn on the 1963 bike is actually a simplified version of the predecessor, which had a wonderful snail shell shaped resonance tube. Good work Mitsuba!
Reminds of the "elephant" horn on the Bombers. Back when things were made to be serviceable years later
nabs
Veteran Member
nabs
Veteran Member
well, I am rather embarrassed to have to describe this particular episode, but better out than in. I needed to open up my speedometer to unstick the mechanism and to repair a tear in the white gasket that seals the glass.
They are not designed to be taken apart so you have to start by prying off the chrome surround which is folded and pressed on to the body of the speedometer - difficult to do without damaging it, but with care the damage can be limited to the section at the back that will be hidden once the speedo is reinstalled.
All was going well - a bit of a clean and lubrication and the mechanism was free to move and the gasket was fragile but serviceable. At this point I thought, well, now I'm in here I'll clean the face. I tentatively used a bit of methylated spirits and the brown coating cleared off, but it was only when I came to dry the surface by gently pressing on a paper towel that I realised I had also lifted the black numerals and dial markings off as well. Disaster!
I felt awful - and pretty guilty - having ruined a perfectly useable original part, but there you go. I have found a replacement that although broken and - looking in very rough state - I hoped might have a dial face that I could salvage, and for £20 delivered I thought it worth a punt.
the mechanism is beyond repair, so at least I do not have to feel bad about wrecking another one.
and the face plate is not too bad
so, to a couple of questions:
As far as I can tell the pointer hand is just a press fit - do I need to do anything special other than pull it off and then press it back on to the axle/pin after refitting the new face plate?
This version of speedo - presumably from a later model CA95 - has a red lamp in the dial face. Does anyone know what it is for? I initially assumed it was a neutral light, but the only picture I have only found with one installed on a CA95 also had a neutral light in the headlight cowl...
cheers
They are not designed to be taken apart so you have to start by prying off the chrome surround which is folded and pressed on to the body of the speedometer - difficult to do without damaging it, but with care the damage can be limited to the section at the back that will be hidden once the speedo is reinstalled.
All was going well - a bit of a clean and lubrication and the mechanism was free to move and the gasket was fragile but serviceable. At this point I thought, well, now I'm in here I'll clean the face. I tentatively used a bit of methylated spirits and the brown coating cleared off, but it was only when I came to dry the surface by gently pressing on a paper towel that I realised I had also lifted the black numerals and dial markings off as well. Disaster!
I felt awful - and pretty guilty - having ruined a perfectly useable original part, but there you go. I have found a replacement that although broken and - looking in very rough state - I hoped might have a dial face that I could salvage, and for £20 delivered I thought it worth a punt.
the mechanism is beyond repair, so at least I do not have to feel bad about wrecking another one.
and the face plate is not too bad
so, to a couple of questions:
As far as I can tell the pointer hand is just a press fit - do I need to do anything special other than pull it off and then press it back on to the axle/pin after refitting the new face plate?
This version of speedo - presumably from a later model CA95 - has a red lamp in the dial face. Does anyone know what it is for? I initially assumed it was a neutral light, but the only picture I have only found with one installed on a CA95 also had a neutral light in the headlight cowl...
cheers
High Beam indicator?.......
What colors are the wires going to it?
What colors are the wires going to it?
The gauge face can be reproduced by a good vinyl shop.
All the pictures I find of the gauge have no extra light and the 1 wiring diagram shows the neutral light separate.
All the pictures I find of the gauge have no extra light and the 1 wiring diagram shows the neutral light separate.
WideAWAKE
Veteran Member
Ehh... self destruct mode??
Does anything good ever happen when the red light turns on???
Does anything good ever happen when the red light turns on???
That's actually the color of the CL350 Hi Beam lens, I think CB's also
That's my guess - I seem to remember my CT200 had a red high beam indicator as well (but like all the small bikes back then, the high beam was as useless as the low beam LOL)
nabs
Veteran Member
thanks for the information all, very helpful as usual.
According to CMS the high beam version was used on the CA160 and CB92 and (with thanks to Yakeye) we now know also on later model CA95s. Now I look more carefully at the parts book for the CA95 the improved model is listed in the sealed beam headlight section (but not shown in the drawings). It is listed as being used from frame CA95F-40050201 (1964).
Pictures courtesey of CMS: headlight beam model
older model:
and for speedo fans, it seems that Yasaki made the very earliest versions (according to the person selling the one below, they were used 1959-61)
According to CMS the high beam version was used on the CA160 and CB92 and (with thanks to Yakeye) we now know also on later model CA95s. Now I look more carefully at the parts book for the CA95 the improved model is listed in the sealed beam headlight section (but not shown in the drawings). It is listed as being used from frame CA95F-40050201 (1964).
Pictures courtesey of CMS: headlight beam model
older model:
and for speedo fans, it seems that Yasaki made the very earliest versions (according to the person selling the one below, they were used 1959-61)
nabs
Veteran Member
I changed my mind and painted the carb side covers, rider foot rest and the pillion foot rest (which I had cleaned up twice previously, only for them to rust immediately despite being kept in a warm and dry garage).
That's it though. No more painting!
That's it though. No more painting!
Richard Pitman
Veteran Member
nabs
Veteran Member
the saga of the speedo continues...
I found another broken one on ebay, which meant I was able to salvage a working one from the parts of the two broken ones and got a slightly cleaner face for mine. This went some way to assuaging my annoyance at myself for messing things up in the first place. Just as I began to think it really was time to move on to something else, I looked round only to find out that I had left out the small bits of card that isolate the frame that holds the mechanism from the outer case! grrr.
I am not sure the delicate chrome edgings will survive another dismantling, and the same can be said for my sense of equanimity. However, I suppose I do need to understand what the bits of card were for. Can anyone enlighten me as to their purpose?
PS and now I look at the picture of my reassembled speedo (on the right) I have not aligned the slotted screw heads attaching the face (arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggghhhhhhhhh! I really which I had left well alone in the first place
I found another broken one on ebay, which meant I was able to salvage a working one from the parts of the two broken ones and got a slightly cleaner face for mine. This went some way to assuaging my annoyance at myself for messing things up in the first place. Just as I began to think it really was time to move on to something else, I looked round only to find out that I had left out the small bits of card that isolate the frame that holds the mechanism from the outer case! grrr.
I am not sure the delicate chrome edgings will survive another dismantling, and the same can be said for my sense of equanimity. However, I suppose I do need to understand what the bits of card were for. Can anyone enlighten me as to their purpose?
PS and now I look at the picture of my reassembled speedo (on the right) I have not aligned the slotted screw heads attaching the face (arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggghhhhhhhhh! I really which I had left well alone in the first place
I feel your pain... but in the words of my grandmother as she tore apart a needlepoint she'd worked on for days after discovering a mistake, "I was just practicin'..."
briandel
Veteran Member
No one's going to notice those screw heads but you. That said, when we bought our house, I went through and did this to every switch/outlet plate:
No one's ever said anything but, at least once a day, I question if I should have pointed them horizontally...
No one's ever said anything but, at least once a day, I question if I should have pointed them horizontally...
No one's going to notice those screw heads but you. That said, when we bought our house, I went through and did this to every switch/outlet plate:
No one's ever said anything but, at least once a day, I question if I should have pointed them horizontally...
Now that’s funny !!!
WideAWAKE
Veteran Member
I used to work at a restoration shop... last thing we did before a bike delivery was make sure all the hardware was facing the same direction.
No body every really noticed. It’s one of those details that is a carry over from the detail of everything else.
You can’t good 100% on everything and then skip the hardware.
No body every really noticed. It’s one of those details that is a carry over from the detail of everything else.
You can’t good 100% on everything and then skip the hardware.
nabs
Veteran Member
handlebar levers
my theory about this bike was that it was involved in an accident causing damage to the right hand side and a previous owner had started to replace the damaged parts before looking in the engine and giving up. The brake lever and bracket (perch) are from a different bike and although the lever is a close match it did not fit the bracket correctly causing it to catch when opening and closing.
I found a replacement online, it was cheap since the lever was broken:
also missing was one of the extravagant star shaped cable adjusters and - at great expense - I got an aftermarket copy from David Silvers
for some reason they made it as a single part. Now I look at the original it would have actually been quite easy to make a replacement at home, since you would just need to cut out the cross shape part and tap a hole (the threaded cylinder section is still available).
Correct bracket now attached - safety first!
my theory about this bike was that it was involved in an accident causing damage to the right hand side and a previous owner had started to replace the damaged parts before looking in the engine and giving up. The brake lever and bracket (perch) are from a different bike and although the lever is a close match it did not fit the bracket correctly causing it to catch when opening and closing.
I found a replacement online, it was cheap since the lever was broken:
also missing was one of the extravagant star shaped cable adjusters and - at great expense - I got an aftermarket copy from David Silvers
for some reason they made it as a single part. Now I look at the original it would have actually been quite easy to make a replacement at home, since you would just need to cut out the cross shape part and tap a hole (the threaded cylinder section is still available).
Correct bracket now attached - safety first!
The more years that go by, the more stuff that gets damaged, lost or "corrupted". You are catching up with decades of neglect, improper work and halfassedness.
nabs
Veteran Member
suspension
I took apart the rear cushions, mainly so I could disguise this dent by turning it around to face the frame, but also to give them a bit of clean up
they are easy to dismantle, turn them upside down, poke a rod through the hole so you can pin the top end to the floor by standing on the rod. You can then pull upwards on the casing until there is enough room to get a screwdriver in the gap: twist it to widen the gap and then hold the exposed nut with a 17mm spanner so you can untwist the metal collar.
there is still some oil in the damper, although given all the congealed oil on the spring perhaps not that much is left! Apparently it is possible to refill them if you drill a hole in the clevis, tap a thread and then seal with a suitable bolt and o-ring, but I think I would like to try them out before attempting anything so drastic.
I gave up trying to devise a way to compress the front fork springs, besides there was no sign of oil leaking out (and per the above, I had no intention of trying to fix them if there was), so I just replaced the rubber bushings.
just a couple of wiring jobs to do and I can start putting everything back together
I took apart the rear cushions, mainly so I could disguise this dent by turning it around to face the frame, but also to give them a bit of clean up
they are easy to dismantle, turn them upside down, poke a rod through the hole so you can pin the top end to the floor by standing on the rod. You can then pull upwards on the casing until there is enough room to get a screwdriver in the gap: twist it to widen the gap and then hold the exposed nut with a 17mm spanner so you can untwist the metal collar.
there is still some oil in the damper, although given all the congealed oil on the spring perhaps not that much is left! Apparently it is possible to refill them if you drill a hole in the clevis, tap a thread and then seal with a suitable bolt and o-ring, but I think I would like to try them out before attempting anything so drastic.
I gave up trying to devise a way to compress the front fork springs, besides there was no sign of oil leaking out (and per the above, I had no intention of trying to fix them if there was), so I just replaced the rubber bushings.
just a couple of wiring jobs to do and I can start putting everything back together
You've done so much to this bike, it's making me tired for you... but it's certainly worth it. Hurry up and finish it already, the suspense is killing me!
Seriously, all the detail you've put into this effort is surely going to pay off handsomely.
Seriously, all the detail you've put into this effort is surely going to pay off handsomely.
nabs
Veteran Member
thanks Tom, all the help and encouragement from you and others on the forum has been extremely helpful and has really added to the enjoyment. My admiration for the people who managed to do this type of hobby pre-internet knows no bounds!
nabs
Veteran Member
wiring harness
I installed the wiring when the frame was upside down as it was a bit easier to see what goes where. One of the joys of this bike is it's simplicity - there are not very many bits to get into a muddle with - and there is a lot of space in the monocoque frame which makes it easy to fit the wires and other electrical components.
I attached my new Sparck Moto 6v regulator/rectifier in the same spot that the old alternator as there is a handy flat spot in the frame that is just the right size. I drilled another hole to secure it firmly. The device has a separate earth wire so I created an extension wire to go to the negative terminal on the battery.
if you would like to see a bit more about the electrics (including a colourised wiring diagram) there is more information in this thread
I installed the wiring when the frame was upside down as it was a bit easier to see what goes where. One of the joys of this bike is it's simplicity - there are not very many bits to get into a muddle with - and there is a lot of space in the monocoque frame which makes it easy to fit the wires and other electrical components.
I attached my new Sparck Moto 6v regulator/rectifier in the same spot that the old alternator as there is a handy flat spot in the frame that is just the right size. I drilled another hole to secure it firmly. The device has a separate earth wire so I created an extension wire to go to the negative terminal on the battery.
if you would like to see a bit more about the electrics (including a colourised wiring diagram) there is more information in this thread
nabs
Veteran Member
wiring harness
I installed the wiring when the frame was upside down as it was a bit easier to see what goes where. One of the joys of this bike is it's simplicity - there are not very many bits to get into a muddle with - and there is a lot of space in the monocoque frame which makes it easy to fit the wires and other electrical components.
I attached my new Sparck Moto 6v regulator/rectifier in the same spot that the old alternator as there is a handy flat spot in the frame that is just the right size. I drilled another hole to secure it firmly. The device has a separate earth wire so I created an extension wire to go to the negative terminal on the battery. There is a voltage sensing wire which I spliced into one of the black ignition wires in the harness. Finally I connected the green/yellow and pink wires in the harness so that full charging is on all the time.
if you would like to see a bit more about the electrics (including a colourised wiring diagram) there is more information in this thread
I installed the wiring when the frame was upside down as it was a bit easier to see what goes where. One of the joys of this bike is it's simplicity - there are not very many bits to get into a muddle with - and there is a lot of space in the monocoque frame which makes it easy to fit the wires and other electrical components.
I attached my new Sparck Moto 6v regulator/rectifier in the same spot that the old alternator as there is a handy flat spot in the frame that is just the right size. I drilled another hole to secure it firmly. The device has a separate earth wire so I created an extension wire to go to the negative terminal on the battery. There is a voltage sensing wire which I spliced into one of the black ignition wires in the harness. Finally I connected the green/yellow and pink wires in the harness so that full charging is on all the time.
if you would like to see a bit more about the electrics (including a colourised wiring diagram) there is more information in this thread
nabs
Veteran Member
front suspension and drive chain
on to the reassembly! I was a little worried about the front suspension as I could not find replacement bushings and there was a bit of play between the links and the arms but once I filled them with grease they firmed up nicely.
not a lot to report on putting all the parts back on the frame: as the manuals are fond of saying "the procedures are as for disassembly, but in the reverse order".
I eventually ran out of time this weekend having wasted an hour or so trying to figure out why my new drive chain did not fit.
The Service Manual specifies that a 428 pitch chain is required but does not say how many links so, several months ago, I had carefully counted the 104 links in the original chain (3 times!) and ordered the appropriate replacement only to find out now - at this not very convenient time - that it did not fit.
naturally I assumed I had assembled something incorrectly and spent a futile hour or two trying to figure out what I'd done wrong, when it occurred to me that had better look at the old chain to check if it was the same size as the new one. What do you know?! It had grown in length and was now 106 links long!! New chain on order.
on to the reassembly! I was a little worried about the front suspension as I could not find replacement bushings and there was a bit of play between the links and the arms but once I filled them with grease they firmed up nicely.
not a lot to report on putting all the parts back on the frame: as the manuals are fond of saying "the procedures are as for disassembly, but in the reverse order".
I eventually ran out of time this weekend having wasted an hour or so trying to figure out why my new drive chain did not fit.
The Service Manual specifies that a 428 pitch chain is required but does not say how many links so, several months ago, I had carefully counted the 104 links in the original chain (3 times!) and ordered the appropriate replacement only to find out now - at this not very convenient time - that it did not fit.
naturally I assumed I had assembled something incorrectly and spent a futile hour or two trying to figure out what I'd done wrong, when it occurred to me that had better look at the old chain to check if it was the same size as the new one. What do you know?! It had grown in length and was now 106 links long!! New chain on order.
In the pic, You are THREE pins (links) short, not two....
So, a 106 chain AND a "half" link, OR a 108 chain...
(I'd just order a 110 and cut it to length)
So, a 106 chain AND a "half" link, OR a 108 chain...
(I'd just order a 110 and cut it to length)
nabs
Veteran Member
exhaust
the silencers(mufflers) are in a terrible state, even compared to the fairly poor cosmetic condition of the rest of the bike. The RHS is slightly dinged but could be lived with, however the LHS has several very large dents and has a hole near the mounting bracket.
I have attempted a temporary repair on the hole using a small metal patch and some high-temp jb weld.
I doubt it will last long - particularly since it is close to the point that the main stand clangs into when it closes - but hopefully it will buy me a bit of time to find a replacement. This will not be easy I think: the early CA95s silencers are a sort of flat cigar shaped and survivors seem quite rare. There is a refab of the later model rounded silencers available from Thailand which I may have to resort too if all else fails.
The baffles and rubber washers that seal the silencers and down tube are still available so I replaced them.
the silencers(mufflers) are in a terrible state, even compared to the fairly poor cosmetic condition of the rest of the bike. The RHS is slightly dinged but could be lived with, however the LHS has several very large dents and has a hole near the mounting bracket.
I have attempted a temporary repair on the hole using a small metal patch and some high-temp jb weld.
I doubt it will last long - particularly since it is close to the point that the main stand clangs into when it closes - but hopefully it will buy me a bit of time to find a replacement. This will not be easy I think: the early CA95s silencers are a sort of flat cigar shaped and survivors seem quite rare. There is a refab of the later model rounded silencers available from Thailand which I may have to resort too if all else fails.
The baffles and rubber washers that seal the silencers and down tube are still available so I replaced them.
nabs
Veteran Member
doh! I don't seem doing this bit very well! I have just ordered a 106 link
nabs
Veteran Member
cables
I believe the throttle and front brake cables are original and happily they were clean and undamaged. For peace of mind, I did look at replacements and ended up taking a risk on a cheap aftermarket replacement set from Thailand.
The set included a good replacement for my damaged speedo drive cable but none of the other cables matched. I suspect all the aftermarket cables will be a bit of a lottery because there were several handlebar designs used in this range of motorcycle. If you are patient you may still be able to get Honda parts: when I was looking originally CMS neither the brake nor the clutch cable, although now I look again the clutch cable is back in stock).
Confusingly the bike came with two throttle cables, the one in the carb was for a different handlebar design so I suppose the carb must have come from another bike. Anyhow, I replaced the throttle cable with a genuine Honda one from David Silver. Here is a thrilling photo of old and new speedo cable for the edification of future cable archeologists
I believe the throttle and front brake cables are original and happily they were clean and undamaged. For peace of mind, I did look at replacements and ended up taking a risk on a cheap aftermarket replacement set from Thailand.
The set included a good replacement for my damaged speedo drive cable but none of the other cables matched. I suspect all the aftermarket cables will be a bit of a lottery because there were several handlebar designs used in this range of motorcycle. If you are patient you may still be able to get Honda parts: when I was looking originally CMS neither the brake nor the clutch cable, although now I look again the clutch cable is back in stock).
Confusingly the bike came with two throttle cables, the one in the carb was for a different handlebar design so I suppose the carb must have come from another bike. Anyhow, I replaced the throttle cable with a genuine Honda one from David Silver. Here is a thrilling photo of old and new speedo cable for the edification of future cable archeologists
nabs
Veteran Member
I had a half hearted attempt at straightening out my bent back brake lever but quickly concluded it was mission improbable. Much to my surprise I was able to get a NOS replacement. Here is the bent original:
Everyone seems to have their preferred pointy thing for poking the wires through the insides of the handle bars. My selected implement was an old throttle cable which had just the right amount of stiffness/bendiness to get round the corners.
I used hair spray to get the throttle grip to stick and that seems to have done the job (the most plausible theory I have read for why this works is that the spray contains alcohol that reacts with the rubber - is this true?)
Switches, levers and grips installed:
I also replaced the grey outer insulation on the light switch cable bundle and that was the last of the fixes. Well, unless it turns out I have made any mistakes (when you are new to all this it is hard not to worry that you might have made some catastrophic error that will result in the whole thing falling apart or exploding when you first try to start it!). We shall soon find out!
Everyone seems to have their preferred pointy thing for poking the wires through the insides of the handle bars. My selected implement was an old throttle cable which had just the right amount of stiffness/bendiness to get round the corners.
I used hair spray to get the throttle grip to stick and that seems to have done the job (the most plausible theory I have read for why this works is that the spray contains alcohol that reacts with the rubber - is this true?)
Switches, levers and grips installed:
I also replaced the grey outer insulation on the light switch cable bundle and that was the last of the fixes. Well, unless it turns out I have made any mistakes (when you are new to all this it is hard not to worry that you might have made some catastrophic error that will result in the whole thing falling apart or exploding when you first try to start it!). We shall soon find out!
nabs
Veteran Member
so this is as far as I have got with the reassembly:
I was able to do some basic tests and confirmed the starter motor, horn, neutral light, high beam, low beam, rear lamp, brake lamp all worked (as did my new upgrade - a high beam indicator - essential for the avoidance of dazzling passers by!).
I also checked there were sparks at the spark plugs and out of curiosity I did a compression test (120 psi on both cylinders vs the 130 specified in the manual). I understand that you are supposed to do this test when the engine is warm, but can I still learn something from this reading, encouraging or otherwise?
Hopefully I can get the final bits on later this week and see if it will start. I won't be going very far though as still I don't have a correctly fitting chain
I was able to do some basic tests and confirmed the starter motor, horn, neutral light, high beam, low beam, rear lamp, brake lamp all worked (as did my new upgrade - a high beam indicator - essential for the avoidance of dazzling passers by!).
I also checked there were sparks at the spark plugs and out of curiosity I did a compression test (120 psi on both cylinders vs the 130 specified in the manual). I understand that you are supposed to do this test when the engine is warm, but can I still learn something from this reading, encouraging or otherwise?
Hopefully I can get the final bits on later this week and see if it will start. I won't be going very far though as still I don't have a correctly fitting chain
Good compression for a dead cold engine.
I just tie a fishing weight on a heavy string to run it thru the bars and then tie & tape the wires to the string to pull them thru while pushing them in at the switch end.
I just tie a fishing weight on a heavy string to run it thru the bars and then tie & tape the wires to the string to pull them thru while pushing them in at the switch end.
nabs
Veteran Member
I wouldn't have thought of doing that, good idea as it would get round pretty much any bend.
nabs
Veteran Member
new chain arrived - fitted and adjusted. Noticed I had left a bit of the chain case off that only fits before you put on the chain. taking chain off again.
I can't find any recommendation for how many turns out to initially set the air screw on the carburettor - is there a sensible default I can start with?
I can't find any recommendation for how many turns out to initially set the air screw on the carburettor - is there a sensible default I can start with?
I would try 1 turn out, 3/4 out is the lowest I've read for any of the carbs. Most seem to be in the 1 to 1.5 area
nabs
Veteran Member
nabs
Veteran Member
a glorious day here today following a couple of weeks of torrential rain so I knocked off work a bit early and thought I would get the exhaust put back on.
Sadly I managed to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory by pulling out one of the exhaust studs when attempting to compress the gasket between the head and the down pipe, stripping what was left of the thread in the head in the process.
My own fault for two reasons: I should have checked the other threads when I did the helicoil for the obviously damaged stud a few weeks ago and secondly I should have been using the correct gasket. I was trying an aluminium one which, to be honest, I do not remember acquiring, and I think it is ever so slightly too large.
There are a couple of copper wound cotton gaskets in my gasket set (which I think is what would have been used originally?) and the fit was a lot better when I did the other side.
I will fix the stud at the weekend as soon as I find where I put the helicoil kit - surely this is the last cockup before I try to start the engine!?
in case it is of use to anyone in the future there are two exhaust designs used on the CA95 and the rubber seals used to connect the down pipes and silencers differ. This is what the one for earlier CA95s looks like:
Sadly I managed to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory by pulling out one of the exhaust studs when attempting to compress the gasket between the head and the down pipe, stripping what was left of the thread in the head in the process.
My own fault for two reasons: I should have checked the other threads when I did the helicoil for the obviously damaged stud a few weeks ago and secondly I should have been using the correct gasket. I was trying an aluminium one which, to be honest, I do not remember acquiring, and I think it is ever so slightly too large.
There are a couple of copper wound cotton gaskets in my gasket set (which I think is what would have been used originally?) and the fit was a lot better when I did the other side.
I will fix the stud at the weekend as soon as I find where I put the helicoil kit - surely this is the last cockup before I try to start the engine!?
in case it is of use to anyone in the future there are two exhaust designs used on the CA95 and the rubber seals used to connect the down pipes and silencers differ. This is what the one for earlier CA95s looks like:
nabs
Veteran Member
repaired the stripped exhaust stud hole, and fitted the left exhaust, seat and fuel (gas) tank. This took about an hour at least half of which was trying to find my helicoil kit!
The grand start up was a bit of underwhelming: I did manage to get the engine to run for a few second but it quickly stalled and - as soon as it did - I could see fuel pouring out of the carburettor overflow tube.
I think I have fixed that (I had to use an aftermarket gasket on the fuel bowl which I had to cut fit and I think it was interfering with the float). I trimmed the inside edge a little and will have to test it tomorrow which I hope has fixed it as it was getting a bit too dark to see what I was doing.
I also noticed that the fuel tap (petcock) was allowing a little fuel passed when in the 'off' position which is disappointing - and a bit worrying - since I have replaced all the gaskets and washers with original Honda parts.
Still, at least a little bit of progress has been made and I hope things are heading in the right direction
The grand start up was a bit of underwhelming: I did manage to get the engine to run for a few second but it quickly stalled and - as soon as it did - I could see fuel pouring out of the carburettor overflow tube.
I think I have fixed that (I had to use an aftermarket gasket on the fuel bowl which I had to cut fit and I think it was interfering with the float). I trimmed the inside edge a little and will have to test it tomorrow which I hope has fixed it as it was getting a bit too dark to see what I was doing.
I also noticed that the fuel tap (petcock) was allowing a little fuel passed when in the 'off' position which is disappointing - and a bit worrying - since I have replaced all the gaskets and washers with original Honda parts.
Still, at least a little bit of progress has been made and I hope things are heading in the right direction
It's not uncommon for new gaskets and O-rings to leak a little at first with petcocks, they will swell within a day and likely solve that problem.
Glad you got that stud fixed up without too much grief. I know where you put the Helicoil set, it was in a "safe" place. Now if I could just remember where that is.
Glad you got that stud fixed up without too much grief. I know where you put the Helicoil set, it was in a "safe" place. Now if I could just remember where that is.
nabs
Veteran Member
thanks LDR, that is good to know. I took it of the petrol tap to have a look in any case and used a honing stone to flatten the metal lever plate that sits in between the rubber tube holder and the cork gasket. I also noticed that there were raised areas on the underside of rubber part that holds the reserve and main fuel tubes. Presumably this is from where the lever had sat in the same position for years, so I flatten the raised part as best I could and bent the spring plates that push this part against the lever so they will apply a bit more pressure. Hopefully that, plus a bit of patience to let the gaskets swell up, will fix it.
Perhaps unsurprisingly my 'temporary fix' on the exhaust was very temporary and it immediately opened up again when I tightened up the exhaust fixings.
The carb overflow is fixed and I can get the engine to run but I am having trouble getting it to idle.
It is a bit smokey and although it will idle for a short while, after about 30 seconds the revs will suddenly pick up and it either stalls or continues to run at high revs (when it is doing this it does not seem to respond to either the air screw or the throttle stop screw).
Any suggestions on where I might have gone wrong will be much appreciated!
Perhaps unsurprisingly my 'temporary fix' on the exhaust was very temporary and it immediately opened up again when I tightened up the exhaust fixings.
The carb overflow is fixed and I can get the engine to run but I am having trouble getting it to idle.
It is a bit smokey and although it will idle for a short while, after about 30 seconds the revs will suddenly pick up and it either stalls or continues to run at high revs (when it is doing this it does not seem to respond to either the air screw or the throttle stop screw).
Any suggestions on where I might have gone wrong will be much appreciated!
nabs
Veteran Member
idle adjustment part II
a bit more fiddling with the air screw and it has improved and, although the engine still starts to race after idling for a while, it is less pronounced and does slow down when I back out the throttle stop screw. Do I need to just keep tweaking the air screw or might there be something else going on?
I've no idea how far away this is from a properly running twin so if someone with more experienced ears can offer an opinion that would be most helpful.
cheers
edit to add that I am not sure the ca95 manual - which talks about an air screw - is describing the carb on my bike. Looking at the channels inside the body the screw seems to restrict the output from the pilot jet which I think means it meters the air/fuel mixture. Can anyone confirm?
a bit more fiddling with the air screw and it has improved and, although the engine still starts to race after idling for a while, it is less pronounced and does slow down when I back out the throttle stop screw. Do I need to just keep tweaking the air screw or might there be something else going on?
I've no idea how far away this is from a properly running twin so if someone with more experienced ears can offer an opinion that would be most helpful.
cheers
edit to add that I am not sure the ca95 manual - which talks about an air screw - is describing the carb on my bike. Looking at the channels inside the body the screw seems to restrict the output from the pilot jet which I think means it meters the air/fuel mixture. Can anyone confirm?
Nick, we can't watch the video unless you make it shared.
nabs
Veteran Member
apologies Tom, I think it should work now.
nabs
Veteran Member
a quick update, I just tried it again when cold - it started first kick but ran for a few seconds, revs increased rapidly and then stalled. I waited a minute and tried again and it ran a bit longer but stalled the same way. I took the float bowl off and there was very little fuel in there - if the fuel is not getting to the carb quickly enough could it cause these symptoms?
I'm not the best guy to help with carbs, but it did seem to be idling oddly in the video although it did slow down as you turned the idle stop out more. It almost sounds like it's 8-stroking as if it's a bit rich, but the exhaust is quiet enough that it's hard to tell.
nabs
Veteran Member
I have answered my own question I think!
I only added enough fuel to work of the reserve and when I tried the petcock lever settings with the fuel pipe detached I realised that the fuel is reduced to a dribble if the lever is not in just the right spot. So perhaps what was happening was varying according to where I put the lever: if it was set a long way from the correct spot it would quickly run out of fuel and when I got it a bit closer to correct it could not deliver fuel fast enough and the level dropped in the bowl making the mixture lean and causing it to rev? It is idling now, albeit rather noisily (hole in exhaust?). Does it sound all right otherwise?