Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160

Flyin900, thanks I'm hoping it works as well as I've heard. I'm unsure how long to leave parts soaking, I'm thinking I'll check every 30-60 minutes?

I don't know if you'll find CorrosionX locally, several years ago I was told that I could order it at True-Value Hardware stores, but these days there isn't one nearby...so I just ordered online.


lxhws certainly give it a try, there's nothing to lose but some rust! I bought this water heater pan online for cheaper than I could get one locally: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-A...r_8K1lSgfbW7U-RChYJJAsU-X2uyYbXEaAgC3EALw_wcB and the drain pan I flipped and siliconed down was from Dollar Tree.
I'm 125 miles from Chatham, we should get some members together this spring and do some riding. There seems to be a good number of us around.


wideAWAKE thanks for the link and carb tips, honestly I haven't even looked at them yet. They were dangling from their cables for a long time, I'm sure that was better for them than a lot of places I could imagine. Good to know there are options out there. Nice bike, glad you're enjoying yours too.


LDR, thanks for the links, they've got a good reputation for quality tires.
 
Unless my memory has failed (again) the crankcase on your engine is split horizontally so taking off the bottom half is really pretty easy when you turn the engine upside down. Once you get the bottom half off you can clean out the layer of glop inside and look over the transmission and con rod big ends.
 
Alan, the Evaporuust will take at least 24+ hrs to soak depending on the level of rust corrosion on the rims. You can’t over do it and leave it too long in there. Also as you noted it works best at room temperatures, so if your in a cold environment then it will be much slower.
If there is serious pitting along the inside edges of the rim after the soak that the rim strip doesn’t cover I used this trick on a buddies rims on restoration.
Since I wasn’t comfortable with the rough corrosion left behind I cleaned them up as best I could and then used electrical tape to cover the rough edges. With tubes in there I thought it may cause a puncture issue down the road.



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WideAWAKE said:
I picked up a 160 a few months ago. Too cheap to not load up in the truck.

Tires were the hardest thing to find. Apparently there are multiple motorcycle tile outlets on line but really they are all the same company just has like 10 different website (all with different pricing too). No one had a 2.5 ribbed front like the original.

Only place I found tires was here.

https://www.mopeddivision.com/search-results-page?q=Kenda

Put a few hundred miles on em and they work great.

Also, if your carbs are beyond repair. Mine had the brass replaced and would not dial in and run right no matter what I did. Bought some cheap new knock off ones off ebay. I was super skeptical but they work really well, at least with my mostly stock set up.

Super fun little blast around time, backroads bike.

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Only in California could you find such a nice example. Nice score for sure, as there is one local up here on Kijiji that has been for sale on and off for well over a year. It’s been sitting outside for a long time leaning up against a tree and wanting $2500.00 for it. ??????
 
More mods to the wheel soak pan tonight after reading some Evaporust experiences. The directions say to immerse the part completely. In my reading it seems that parts which were only partially submerged are experiencing some pitting near the (liquid) surface line on the part, while parts that were completely submerged are not experiencing this issue. I'm gonna need a deeper pan. To deepen the pan I have I've bought 6 feet of 1/2"ID x 5/8" OD clear tubing and made a "hula hoop" that I've affixed to the top edge of the pan with strips of painters tape. I'll add some white silicone caulking between the strips of tape, later I'll remove the tape and fill the gaps.

This will increase the pan depth enough to comfortably immerce/submerge these wheels with plenty of extra depth.

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Gotta get creative when working with our favorite bikes. Interesting info about full immersion. I need to de-rust the 8 studs that hold the crankshaft in my K0 upper case and I'd prefer not removing them to do it, but they're not in a situation where any reasonable depth container (and resulting quantity of Evaporust) could reach them. Probably going to use plastic bags around the studs with Evaporust in them.
 
Alan F. said:
More mods to the wheel soak pan tonight after reading some Evaporust experiences. The directions say to immerse the part completely. In my reading it seems that parts which were only partially submerged are experiencing some pitting near the (liquid) surface line on the part, while parts that were completely submerged are not experiencing this issue. I'm gonna need a deeper pan. To deepen the pan I have I've bought 6 feet of 1/2"ID x 5/8" OD clear tubing and made a "hula hoop" that I've affixed to the top edge of the pan with strips of painters tape. I'll add some white silicone caulking between the strips of tape, later I'll remove the tape and fill the gaps.

This will increase the pan depth enough to comfortably immerce/submerge these wheels with plenty of extra depth.

View attachment 11106View attachment 11108
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This will increase the pan depth enough to comfortably immerse/submerge these wheels with plenty of extra depth.

Before you pour in the liquid, lay a plastic sheet over the whole works to form a leak proof liner.
 
ancientdad said:
I need to de-rust the 8 studs that hold the crankshaft in my K0 upper case and I'd prefer not removing them to do it, but they're not in a situation where any reasonable depth container (and resulting quantity of Evaporust) could reach them. Probably going to use plastic bags around the studs with Evaporust in them.
Click to expand...

I think I remember seeing a picture of clear plastic bags of rust remover wire tied over studs somewhere.
 
May be to late but I use the plastic storage bins you slide under your bed. large and deep enough come with a lid. Will need some kind of filler so as not to use to much liquid or throw in some other parts.

Bill H
 
I've seen fuel tanks filled with golf balls. Or was it ping pong balls to take up the majority of internal space during de-rusting, easy to get them all out too with an unsharpened pencil with a 'glue dot' at one end. For open containers I'd recommend the golf balls though, they sink. (ask me how I know)


I'm setting up now to soak the rims, deal is I do the dishes before washing the rims and spokes in the kitchen sink. I've got a glass topped table in the attic with an electric heater with thermostat set at 70F beneath it and a blue tarp above, I want that piece of glass warm before I begin and I'll soak the jug of Evaporust in a sink of hot water for 15 minutes too. I'll wire brush the inside of the rims, but the visible side is only getting soap and water with a gentle sponge, same with the spokes and nipples.

I'll update with photos and start a stopwatch before anything goes into the Evaporust.
 
Ok, had to run out for a second gallon of Evaporust but one rim and all of the spokes are soaking. In fact I had to toss in some other items to raise the liquid level enough to submerge the rim. I've got the heater under the table set at 73 for the overnight, I'll check it all in the morning. Start time was ~9pm

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I use the evaporust in a drywall mud tray and just move the rim a couple times a day to a new position. Never have had pitting issues. I usually find that wire brushing the rust spots at some point during the soak gives quicker and better results.

I had success lately using Bar Keepers Friend liquid mixed with hot water and some small chains or lock washers thrown in to clean up tanks. Soak, shake, soak repeat. I then rinse and if it looks ok I do a rinse with Whink Rust Stain Remover, drain and use a heat source to dry. The phosphoric acid in the Whink keeps the flash rust to a minimum.
 
Great learning curve on here for this newbie. Although I've been around for a while (now retired) I hadn't heard of 'Evaporust'. I'd used the laborious brass brush and WD40 method for my older restorations.

Just done the Google thing and found that it is available in UK - unlike a lot of good USA products. Now stored in my memory banks.:biggrin: Thanks guys!
 
If you like the Evaporust you're sure to like the CorrosionX I'll use to keep parts from re-rusting.
It may be a pricey combination but I'm hoping the two products will work together to give the results I want. This won't be a restoration though, I'm not looking for shiny and new with this one.
 
So spokes and nipples are quite good, not new but rather serviceable, you can probably spot the 2 new ones in the pictures. Threads are clean and thread together smoothly.

The rear rim still has considerable rust in the bead areas, chrome is pitted where the rust used to be as expected, but otherwise clean.

Before and after (12hours) pics of the rear rim:
I'm leaving the rim in for another 12 hours.

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Are you going to use Autosol or similar metal polish for the finished job? Spokes and nipples should come up great!
 
I would buff or burnish or polish them, but I'm concerned with loss of material and I absolutely want to leave the surfaces clean and dry for the CorrosionX to bond to.
 
Be very careful buffing or polishing the spokes. The plating on them is pretty thin, and is easy to remove. It’s hard to tell when you’ve gone too far, but you’ll know it if they begin to rust all over.
 
Thanks 1969 CL350, I'm planning soap and water only until the wheels are reassembled, then they'll get a coat of CorrosionX to seal them up. It's a thin film corrosion preventer that bonds on a molecular level with many metals.

I'm hoping to keep the patina and ditch the rust and potential to re-rust.
 
I went out for a couple of errands and came back with my front & rear hubs (hosed off with brake cleaner) plus enough 'stuff' to hopefully fill the soak pan to raise the liquid level enough to submerge the front rim tonight.

I doubt I'll start relacing the rear wheel tonight, but I've got everything I need here at home now.

3:15 left before I take the rear wheel out & put the front in.
 
I should hook up the electronic flasher can to the led directionals with a 9v battery so the neighbors think it's holiday decoration....
 
After 24 hours in the Evaporust the rear rim is out, I'm not entirely happy with it, I'll wire brush it in re morning and reassess.

The parts I added to raise the liquid level all came out great though.

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The chrome side is cleaner than before and likely this as good as it will clean up.

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The other side is much cleaner than it was...
I'm not too jazzed, it'll probably look better after it dries. I'll wire brush it tomorrow and reassess.

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But it's still not quite as clean as the front wheel was to begin with.

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At least on that side...

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I use a 3-4 inch wire wheel in a corded drill. Seated, wheel between my knees and feet, full speed, press hard. Messy? Yes. Sparks flying, eye protection, mask, good idea. Wipe down with oily rag. Judging from the bottom photo this would do no real harm. Tip: shorter bristles from a half worn out wheel work great especially if you keep reversing direction of drill as they become angled so as to advantage the most aggressive contact. Safety: don't slip.

Amazon.com: Forney 72739 Wire Wheel Brush, Coarse Crimped with 1/4-Inch Hex Shank, 4-Inch-by-.012-Inch : Industrial & Scientific
 
Very true Ballbearian, but I was hoping for passive rust removal, so much for that idea.

I didn't get back to check on these wheels until about 1pm. The small parts are still coming out very nicely so I know the Evaporust isn't worn out yet.
I took the rim out and dried it off for a look, I'm not entirely pleased with the progress so I used a wire brush on the tire side of the rim, both rims actually.
The front looked like this when I put it back into the Evaporust:

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The chrome side still needs more time to soak, I rubbed the pitting with my fingertip and quite a bit of rust and tiny bits of flaking chrome were loosened, so I dipped my fingertips and repeated the process until no more loose material was coming off.

Then I determined which side of the rim should face up, the rim needs to be flipped over at halftime so both outer sides get equal time to soak, the rim's fit to the bottom of the pan must not be letting much action happen.

So the front soaked 9pm-1pm, 16 hours. I should check on it again after 10pm tonight.

Meanwhile I'll have a look at cleaning up the hubs.
 
Alan, While the Evaporust works well it cannot undo the heavy pitting that those rims had on both surfaces in the beginning. The metal has already given up material with the rust formation and time to pit fairly heavily on some rusted spots.
Light surface rust on metal is dispatched with no real damage to the metal surface, here the wire brush cleaning and another soaking is what will yield the best results. Overall they look way better than originally shown as received. :)
 
Thank you, I agree. My learning curve is flattening I think now. I had high hopes and wanted to test the limits of the product myself. For just rusty nuts and bolts it's a fast fix, the sprocket studs, nuts and tongued washers came out perfect, not new but pristine Survivior parts.

I'll post before and after photos of the rims....after.
 
Front Hub cleaned up very nicely with cheap toothpaste and a cheap toothbrush. Best part is it still has its factory clear coat. Bearings are good so I'll leave them alone until they give me a reason.

I'll clean the rear hub up a little later on.


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Hey Allan great work. .On the rims, I worked like you on a set for a CB77. I ended up sand blasting and powder coating them . Eastwood makes a coat that looks like chrome from 10 feet and it did a nice job. Not suggesting you do that just a thought.

Will be watching your progress.

Bill H
 
Thanks Bill, I've heard of those colors before but haven't seen any examples around. I understand there's one that looks like Nickel plating as well but never tarnishes, mmm.
 
New Made-in-Japan NOS gray CL160 clutch, throttle, front brake and speedometer cables wire just delivered.
 
The high bar cables were MC brand from an eBay seller, upon closer inspection only the upper throttle cable is included in the pics...the lower split cable is missing, hopefully the original will clean up.

Speedometer cable is OEM. I'll get seller names to you later on.

Thanks Bill, effort is an overstatement maybe.
 
If everyone is as tired of staring at these wheels as I am, there's a nice surprise at the end of this update.

I worked a long day today and barely thought about this bike at all. Got home & sat a bit with a few beers then headed up to the attic to have a look.
I'm calling this DONE! And it's looking even better as it dries.

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Ok now for something completely different....

To fit a wider variety of large parts into this soak pan I needed to pop that oil drain pan out of the middle.

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Liquid level now is just 1.5 inches barely with small parts thrown in to raise the level a bit, it'll be enough I guess. On my way home I stopped at storage and removed the chrome side panels from the tank. I thought this was a big step for me because I've thought they were really cool from an early age but I never had the opportunity to see them disassembled, or seen how the knee pads attached.

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I'll check back in on them in the morning at the 12 hour point, I'll probably just flip them then. Stay tuned.
 
^^^Completely agree, if you can salvage the toaster panels to any decent extent this whole exercise has been a major win. The rims look great, if it weren't for the remaining pitting you'd never know it happened.
 
Thank you both, your words are very encouraging.
I'm not getting my hopes up too high just yet though, I'll be happy if all of the parts come together with an even balance of imperfection, maybe some better than others.

I'll check on progress after another cup of coffee.
 
Alan, Those rims are looking great and have come a long way from the starting point. Hopefully the toaster panels clean up well. There's always the chroming option. :)

My current project has been down the chrome road and with all new fasteners too. It has been a treat to do this with the new parts, yet not so much wallet wise. :frown:
 
Yes there really is no substitute for new parts or rechroming. But my goal for this bike is just a minimal refresh, call it an exercise in return per dollar per unit of energy spent.

Smiles per mile in the end will be the deciding factor right?
 
I'm also impressed. Great work, and a good recommendation for Evaporust. Not sure I'll be using MY toothpaste on hubs, but hey, it's a learning curve!!(y)
 
Thanks Hondaholic, it's just from the dollar store bought along with a 4-pack of toothbrushes. I think they do a pretty good job, check out the rear hub:

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Before:

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