Trailers...

[esh21167]

With the Mrs. and I looking to do some traveling while hauling machines in the future, a trailer search has begun. She has a Can Am Spyder and I'll be taking 1 or 2 two wheeled bikes. Currently a '78 CB400A (hoping for a CB550 or 750 in the future) and a dual sport. Perhaps both. Also weekend use for 3-4 guys with off road bikes about 1-2 hours from home.

Half-ton truck, so looking at an enclosed 7' x 14' tandem axle, 7000 GVWR size. Like everything else, there are many manufacturers, and wondering where to start. Any opinions? Any to absolutely avoid. Looking to stay under $7k, which I think is realistic.

Side topic is securing bikes. Most trailers come with some rings, but I'm liking the e-track options for a lot of versatility depending on cargo. And along those lines, if traveling long distances, do folks here use straps on the lower forks and swingarm to avoid suspension compression? I've only every trailered like 30 minutes and was never really concerned about it, but we use a block to limit compression of forks.

Thanks for any and all input!

 

[2wheel]

Two things I learned when I bought my trailer. Make sure it’s tall enough to stand up in. Mine is shorter and I’m constantly ducking or hunched over when I’m in the trailer. It’s more aerodynamic being shorter but I would still opt for the taller version. Second, get a ramp rear door. Mine has swinging doors and works great with a couple folding aluminum ramps but the ramp would be more convenient. I installed etrack in mine and works great. I installed better lights operated by a 12v Milwaukee tool battery and I put some commercial carpet in that I got for free. Mine is an interstate victory trailer with an v nose and I’m very happy with it. I think there is a dealer in Hershey.

 

[GMX]

Rear ramp door, V nose and side access door are all must haves.
I've used Baxley Sport Chocks with multiple floor anchor locations. Once at the track, remove them from the trailer and use them outside.
They secure the front wheel with no stress on front suspension. Just strap the rear wheel to the floor and you're good to go.
Not sure about the best way to secure a Spyder though.

 

[esh21167]

Definitely going with a ramp rear door and V-nose for aerodynamics and that extra length may be helpful to back the Spyder rear wheel into. Two straps around the rear frame area should secure it. I think a strap through each front wheel then.

The Baxley chock looks interesting. Roll in and roll out. Not cheap but not straps to deal with. Is there anything else like those that wouldn't need front straps?

I was undecided about the extra height because the few I've looked at we could stand in but the door opening is about 1-2" lower and could be a head knocker. Good point on the higher ones.

Is it OK to put a two-wheel bike 'sideways' in a trailer?

 

[2wheel]

I have a lock n load chock in the front of my trailer and it is drive in and strap over the front wheel. Then I strap the back of the bike both sides. I see David Silver hauls his bikes sideways all the time.

 

[2wheel]

 

[Richard Pitman]

My boss from a previous life used his wifes trailer horse box to transport his <spit> Yamaha Dragstar when it broke down. Ideal transporter for 2 or 3 iron horses.

 

[EzPete]

Definitely going with a ramp rear door and V-nose for aerodynamics and that extra length may be helpful to back the Spyder rear wheel into. Two straps around the rear frame area should secure it. I think a strap through each front wheel then.

The Baxley chock looks interesting. Roll in and roll out. Not cheap but not straps to deal with. Is there anything else like those that wouldn't need front straps?

I was undecided about the extra height because the few I've looked at we could stand in but the door opening is about 1-2" lower and could be a head knocker. Good point on the higher ones.

Is it OK to put a two-wheel bike 'sideways' in a trailer?

if you go sideways with the bike, pay particular attention to lateral load on the tie downs - you’ll probably want to kick the tie down points out about 6” on each side to account for this.

It’s done all the time - it’s just a pain in the tukus to get the bike sideways in the trailer when loading.

 

[12ozPBR]

I see David Silver hauls his bikes sideways all the time.

That is in a full size box (8’6” max). When it comes to tow trailers, side hauling would be more feasible in a wider one of course. Easy rule of thumb to differentiate is the wheel wells. If they are on the exterior then it’s narrower box. If the wheel wells are on the interior (smooth exterior) then closer to 8” wide.
Most 7’x14’ trailers seem to be the narrower version.

 

[Flyin900]

Not a trailer owner per se, yet I have towed the Iron Horse units both a small single open trailer and an enclosed two bike trailer. Clamshell fibreglass design which is lighter and very aerodynamic with trailer brakes on the larger units. They are a US manufacturer and not cheap new, yet a used one maybe in your budget of $7K US.

Here is their website: https://ironhorsetrailers.com/

 

[esh21167]

Two things I learned when I bought my trailer. Make sure it’s tall enough to stand up in. Mine is shorter and I’m constantly ducking or hunched over when I’m in the trailer. It’s more aerodynamic being shorter but I would still opt for the taller version. Second, get a ramp rear door. Mine has swinging doors and works great with a couple folding aluminum ramps but the ramp would be more convenient. I installed etrack in mine and works great. I installed better lights operated by a 12v Milwaukee tool battery and I put some commercial carpet in that I got for free. Mine is an interstate victory trailer with an v nose and I’m very happy with it. I think there is a dealer in Hershey.
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I found a Patriot v-nose which is a 14' version of yours I believe. Interior height is 5'11". That may work, but the door opening is 5'6". Just enough crack your head every time...

Thanks to all for insight. I found some reasonably priced chocks to just strap over the tire. I was looking for a style that would attached to e-track along it's length (wheels/chock in line with track instead of needing a cross piece of track. That would add a lot of flexibility. Found 2, cheapest at Dennis Kirk: https://www.denniskirk.com/pingel/r...r-mount-series-e-track.p514491.prd/514491.sku

Do you use self-drilling/tapping screws to attach track into the frame members? I would think 1/4" and hit as many members as you can. Most track seller recommend this method. I don't see a benefit of through bolting through the members because the screw would be quite long, reducing holding power.

I did some 'directions,' even from at least one e-track seller showing using wood screws. Sounds like a bad idea. Others said to use through bolts with washers, but you'd still only be secured to the plywood floor.

 

[2wheel]

I found a Patriot v-nose which is a 14' version of yours I believe. Interior height is 5'11". That may work, but the door opening is 5'6". Just enough crack your head every time...

Thanks to all for insight. I found some reasonably priced chocks to just strap over the tire. I was looking for a style that would attached to e-track along it's length (wheels/chock in line with track instead of needing a cross piece of track. That would add a lot of flexibility. Found 2, cheapest at Dennis Kirk: https://www.denniskirk.com/pingel/r...r-mount-series-e-track.p514491.prd/514491.sku

Do you use self-drilling/tapping screws to attach track into the frame members? I would think 1/4" and hit as many members as you can. Most track seller recommend this method. I don't see a benefit of through bolting through the members because the screw would be quite long, reducing holding power.

I did some 'directions,' even from at least one e-track seller showing using wood screws. Sounds like a bad idea. Others said to use through bolts with washers, but you'd still only be secured to the plywood floor.

I'm 6'1" and my trailer is 5'5" inside. I wouldn't mind a shorter (than me) door to deal with but would love an inside height taller than me. It still works for me because I'm not in the trailer for any extended amount of time. If you buy a quality wheel chock that actually fits your tire you should be fine. A friend gave me a couple chocks and they are too wide for my smaller bikes to hold it well. If you are attaching the etrack to the walls you definitely want to screw into the metal frame. I bolted with washers and lock nuts, each section of track down to the floor on both ends and the middle then used 3/4 x #14 wood screws in the rest of the holes. I've checked them often and all seems well. My chocks are through bolted to the floor at all locations.

 

[esh21167]

Ok, back to this topic... and related hitches.

I'm looking at the Bullet Proof hitches and torn between steel and aluminum drop/rise models and 'duty.' The 'light duty' steel ones only have one pin for securing the ball in the channel. I'm in that category, under 10,000 pounds. The medium duty ones, overkill for me, but have two pins securing the ball in the channel. That seems a bit more stable, maybe less movement. Worth the upgrade?

Another thing that looks interesting about the steel models are shackles that are shown mounted to the holes in the drop/rise rail that can be used to make up for situations where chains may be too short to reach all the way to the receiver. Of course cross the chains under the coupler/tongue, then bring them up to the shackles that might be slightly higher than the ball. Or perhaps, depending on height situations, there could be holes for the shackles below the ball. Thoughts on such a setup like below, particularly if the chains are attached above the ball? Maybe overthinking, but the trailer is still 'cradled' by the chains.

I think in my common potential situations, there would be a location lower than the ball anyway.



Also, for a solid type hitches, there are many simple clamp type 'anti-rattle' devices. Curt makes one that has a cam type lock, and I wonder if that's really secure enough, compared to the one that is secured with nuts on each side. The idea of course is the one is 'tool-free.'

For a tubular steel model, is different type of anti rattle device better?

Sorry for so many questions. Open to opinions on all of this stuff. Thanks!

 

[2wheel]

I like the 2 pin design better but bull boulder and Rhino both make nice hitches that are single pin. I would trust either design. I’ve never been concerned with any anti rattle device because of the heavy tongue weight of a trailer. I’ve pulled many trailers and don’t see the need for one. The only time I use one is with my bicycle carrier. It seems to move around a bit but I’ve used it without one most of the time with zero issues. I would recommend hooking your safety chains to your receiver hitch that’s bolted to your vehicle.

 

[Packard3155*]

I have a 20 foot box trailer with a beavertail ramp door. When I ordered it, I added e-track on the sides (horizontal) about waist high and a double row of e-track in the v nose. The multi e-track give you more options. The e-track was welded in. I also added more floor tiedowns for different uses. Mine is 8 foot wide so I have wheel wells inside