Best guess is the machinist took .060" off the piston edges so compression loss will be negligible. File this issue under Oops and forget about it.
Gave up on this.I'm also thinking of using the Motul Engine Flush additive on the oil before changing it - instructions says to just mix it with oil while bike is hot, then run it idle for 25 mins and change the oil - will do some more research to see if it's worth it. I still haven't split the cases of this engine so I think that might be a good idea since I don't have any idea how it's looking. My clutch also has some shoddy repairs done to it as well so I don't know if I expect it to be that great.
I would worry about it, but I already hit 160+kph (100 mph) multiple times before even finding out with absolutely no issues so it's clearly fine and happy hehe. Love to hear the exhaust crackling after I park the bike.File this issue under Oops and forget about it.
Back in the day, a few techs I worked with used a pint of ATF in the engine oil a day before an oil change (car engines though). Just read some posts at Bob is the oil guy and apparently there are better products to use for it these days, though even those products might be problematic for a wet clutch...Gave up on this.
Read in multiple places people just dismissing it as snake oil or whatever. And I do agree that early oil changes can probably accomplish the same thing.
All the last 4 or 5 (I don't even know anymore) oil changes were done super early, between 800~1500km so I think the engine probably does not need a flush. Especially since I changed it from mineral to brazilian semi synthetic (motul 5000+ locally produced with recycled oil) and now motul 5100 (imported) semi syntetic. Just going to put new Motul 5100 15w50 on it and that is it.
Just bought the motul Clean & Boost for the gas as well. I already run premium 103 octane so it should be fun (mostly because it has a smidge less ethanol on it, but I did run it on E30 just fine).