Shrimp's '72 CL 350 build

I gladly dumped those into my used oil container.....maybe that was the last of them! But I'm sure there will be other surprises
 
I took the wire cup to the clutch cover....need to attack the other side covers but my main job is taking the head off and finding out what's in there!
 
Shrimpie said:
I took the wire cup to the clutch cover....need to attack the other side covers but my main job is taking the head off and finding out what's in there!
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Springs and ball bearings that will go flying when you open it up! :ROFLMAO:

Nah, just pulling your leg.
 
Shrimpie said:
Well....my luck usually runs that way!
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Honestly, if anything comes flying out of there it would be the first time. But we do have a member who once found a second cam chain tensioner slipper in his 360 engine when he had it apart to replace the one that was being used. The other was somehow jammed in below it, partially in the bottom end. So at this point in their lives you really never know for sure.
 
Progress today:

I'm new to this so would appreciate comments on anything obvious. How about the rusty valve?

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Shrimpie said:
Wondered if that valve was burnt?

Also chewed up Cam Chain tensioner it looks like.
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IMO, you should replace all rubber cam chain-related parts while in there, and if the age of the cam chain itself is unknown then replace it too. I'll be curious to see the inner areas of the crankcase once the cylinders are off, it will tell you a lot about how often the cam chain was adjusted. The pictures don't show any obvious wear on the sides of the cam chain tunnel, which are often quite worn off when maintenance is neglected because the loose chain slaps and rubs the walls.
 
Not too bad looking. The chewed tensioner has justified your motor breakdown for that. I'm always curious about the valve seating and will stand the head on it's side and fill the intakes with a jigger of gas to see if they leak, then flip the head the other way and do the exhausts. Just for fun.
 
That's not many miles,, but a lot with the little to zero maintenance that a lot of these bikes received.
Seems like a good bit of carbon build up on the pistons. Looks like about 8,000 miles of being run out of tune.
 
From the last photos it looks better than a lot I've seen.

When you pull the cylinders check the top case where the front guide and where the pivot sits for the rollers. They get hammered out and if so will cause issue down the road.

I would also suggest checking the pivot pieces for wear and for the cost I now replace them.
 
More progress...how do these look? I'll take a look at the suggestions above as well.
 
Shrimpie said:
Thank you...can you explain the 'valve recession'?
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Short answer .... OE valves were soft and wore quickly. A thin stellite coating was supposed to help with wear but does little so what you end up with is instead of a flat surface for the valve to match the flat surface of the valve seat ... which are also soft compared to newer seats .... you end up with a cupped surface instead of flat and thus the valve recession into the head.
I have found the intake valves worse for wear but the exhaust will wear out too. Lapping won't help the situation. Recutting the valve is a waste of time and money and it will wear even faster.
 
Head and cylinder & pistons look pretty typical to me.
The tensioner need replaced obviously. As mentioned may as well do the cam chain while you're there.
 
Shrimpie said:
I took the wire cup to the clutch cover....need to attack the other side covers but my main job is taking the head off and finding out what's in there!
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Be careful with wire brushes on those aluminum covers, it will take a lot of effort to get those scratches out. I would use progressively finer grits of sandpaper to clean up and polish those covers instead.
Here’s a before and after of a Triumph Bonneville transmission cover that I did with manual wet sanding. I started with 220 grit to get out the surface stains, oxidation, and gouges. Then went progressively finer up to 2000 and a final polish with Autosol. I did the same with the other engine covers and front brake panel.@

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Be sure to clean out the oil filter and check the oil pickup screen. Thoe black plastic bits from the rollers get into them.
 
Good advice above.... I'll sand that side back out.

Got myself into trouble trying to remove the forks this morning. I had loosened the top, drained the oil but apparently not tightened it down enough after that. Was driving it out the bottom and the spring released. Now I can't get the top threaded back in to continues driving it out and can't get it to come free from the bottom. Any suggestions?
 
Shrimpie said:
Good advice above.... I'll sand that side back out.

Got myself into trouble trying to remove the forks this morning. I had loosened the top, drained the oil but apparently not tightened it down enough after that. Was driving it out the bottom and the spring released. Now I can't get the top threaded back in to continues driving it out and can't get it to come free from the bottom. Any suggestions?
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You have the later style forks with internal springs and the clamp-type top bridge, they should slide out of the top bridge and steering stem clamps if they're loosened. Sometimes words don't describe things well enough. Pictures?
 
The perils of watching videos and not also checking the manual. I think there's a snap ring in there at the bottom of the rubber cover ?

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Okay, if you're trying to remove the forks completely, and since your top bridge is cracked to hell, then you should be able to simply pull each entire fork assembly out of the clamps now. Steering stem pinch bolts removed, top bridge pinch bolts gone (and half the clamps on each side), the forks should be loose and should pull right out.

However, to disassemble the forks (for example, to replace the fork seals), there is an allen bolt in the very bottom of the lower leg, above where the axle sits. It screws into the bottom of the damper rod that the top cap is screwed onto.
 
Thanks....then they must be rusted on since they won't budge. I even took my rubber hammer and tried to force the bottom out but no luck
 
Shrimpie said:
Thanks....then they must be rusted on since they won't budge. I even took my rubber hammer and tried to force the bottom out but no luck
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There's likely rust under the headlight ears, though I believe the later clamp-style forks were chromed all the way to the top unlike the earlier versions but I might be wrong on that. Did you use a flat screwdriver to spread the lower pinch points a little?
 
I'll try that. I thought since it was cracked and the busted piece fell out it was unnecessary but might be too tight still.
 
Shrimpie said:
I'll try that. I thought since it was cracked and the busted piece fell out it was unnecessary but might be too tight still.
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The steering stem is the lower clamp area, the bolts are removed but you still might need to spread them slightly to allow the tubes to slide in them.
 
Removed the cam chain tensioner and only have one guide. The one I found was dislodged when I pulled the jug off. Should I assume it fell deep and go hunting there? How much trouble am I in?
 
Shrimpie said:
Removed the cam chain tensioner and only have one guide. The one I found was dislodged when I pulled the jug off. Should I assume it fell deep and go hunting there? How much trouble am I in?
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Have you taken the time to read through the engine disassembly section of the FSM? It doesn't go into the finest of details because they're intended for Honda mechanics, but it outlines the process and shows pictures of the main components.

You can also get an idea of the parts involved if you use one of the resources we all do and is in your Welcome Package, like this from CMSNL

www.cmsnl.com

Honda CL350 SCRAMBLER 1972 K4 USA CAM CHAIN TENSIONER - buy CAM CHAIN TENSIONER spares online

✓access the CAM CHAIN TENSIONER schematic✓find Honda CAM CHAIN TENSIONER spares easily✓CAM CHAIN TENSIONER parts quickly delivered
www.cmsnl.com www.cmsnl.com

www.cmsnl.com

Honda CL350 SCRAMBLER 1972 K4 USA parts lists and schematics

✓ CL350 SCRAMBLER 1972 K4 USA parts lists and schematics ✓ Easy repairs with Honda diagrams ✓ Free access!
www.cmsnl.com www.cmsnl.com
 
Thanks ....and I should have been more patient when I removed the tensioner. Do I need to drop the pan and see if it fell there?
 
Shrimpie said:
I think what I mean here are the little roller pin rubber parts....
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If those rubber pieces are not in their slot with the roller pin, odds are that they took a dive into the oil pan.
 
I'm hoping I can go in through the drain plug and fish around with my magnet. Sure don't want to have to split the case.
 
Shrimpie said:
I'm hoping I can go in through the drain plug and fish around with my magnet. Sure don't want to have to split the case.
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That might work, but my first guess would be it's on top of the windage tray right under the crankshaft. You might try magnet fishing through the cam chain tunnel first.
 
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