Rob's Rebuild: CB450K3

CB450K3-Rob

CB450K3-Rob

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Joined
Jan 28, 2024
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Location
Vancouver, WA 98683
OK, guys. This is the start of my CB450 build thread. I’m planning on some customization – not a restoration. We’re at t=0, and I’ll document here as I go along (but expect a lengthy process - I'm not in a hurry, and have too much to learn).

I found this bike near me with a clean title and went for it. I wanted a project to work on, but I’m new to these classic Hondas. I chose a twin since carb syncing has got to be easier than with 4! I wanted something that needed motor work (fun & save $), has a clean title, and wasn’t too pristine (since I’d feel too guilty about cutting up a nice copy). I’m also fond of gold on my motorcycles, which influenced the purchase in a completely inappropriate, illogical manner. I'll have to work on that.

Side note: I feel extremely lucky! ...to have chosen the twin while also finding this forum (which happened after the purchase). I’ve just started digging into the threads and have found so much info that I need to digest. Wow!

Anyway, the bike I bought (once :)) looked like this: (pretty nice, huh?)
index.php


But … I bought it like this: :oops:
Screenshot_20240123-123820.png


The owner had run it lean and ruined a piston:
PXL_20240229_172707362.PORTRAIT.jpg


It’s nice, but still has a lot of work to do.
PXL_20240229_172511906.PORTRAIT.jpg PXL_20240203_044714449.jpg
PXL_20240203_060429317.MP.jpg PXL_20240229_172015633.jpg
PXL_20240203_065435100.jpg PXL_20240229_172605491.PORTRAIT.jpg
PXL_20240203_044640707.jpg

It came with 2 extra engines:
PXL_20240229_171812268.MP.jpg PXL_20240229_171821383.jpg PXL_20240229_172653497.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL.jpg

The engine is now in the shop being disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. I wanted someone that knew what they were doing so I could quickly find out what needs attention, and get some good tips for improvements.
PXL_20240217_205401740.jpg PXL_20240217_205358232.jpg

I’ll follow-up next with my vision for the bike. Looking forward to this journey & learning from you guys.

Cheers!
 

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You have a lot of engine spares, which is a great thing. You also have quite the assortment of stuff, a K6 engine, a K3 engine and a K1 engine. I'm wondering if your bike itself is a K4. Did you check the frame number against our Honda ID Guide entries?
 
Welcome to the forum and it is the absolute best place for info and advice on your new CB450 project (madnesss??). I recently picked up a CB450 K5 and found this forum and having a place to pose questions and get friendly and accurate answers is awesome and helps prevent discouragement from kicking in when you hit a bump. Just got back from taking my cylinder and pistons to a local machinist and he confirmed that oversized pistons and a bore job are in the cards. But on the plus side neither piston was melted. ;) I look forward to following your travels.
 
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ancientdad said:
You have a lot of engine spares, which is a great thing. You also have quite the assortment of stuff, a K6 engine, a K3 engine and a K1 engine. I'm wondering if your bike itself is a K4. Did you check the frame number against our Honda ID Guide entries?
Click to expand...
Frame says "CB450-4014988" and "MFD in Japan .... 7/70". So it looks like I have a K3 ... as AD pointed out, one of the engines is a K3 also. That's funny because my title says 1971, which is why I thought it was a K4.

Dang! I should probably change the title of this thread. Can one of you help with that? I think I can change my name myself. Already learning important stuff.

LDR: The guy I bought it from (Ethan) lives in Portland, OR, but when I transferred the title, the lady told me it had been previously licensed in WA state.

For the engine, I was going to try to modestly increase performance without sacrificing reliability. So I was thinking modest boring (+1mm?), slight increase in comp ratio, improving the ignition... I'll start scouring the forum for other ideas for engine improvements/mods.
 
CB450K3-Rob said:
Frame says "CB450-4014988" and "MFD in Japan .... 7/70". So it looks like I have a K3 ... as AD pointed out, one of the engines is a K3 also. That's funny because my title says 1971, which is why I thought it was a K4.
Click to expand...
This is usually because the bike was titled when it sold, which was probably either after September 1st of 1970 or even later if it was sold in '71. Back then, if bikes didn't sell in the year they were released by Honda, they were simply held over until the following year and titled when they were sold. This is why we always ask about the details to properly identify the bike, because for our purposes the K series is more important than the year.
CB450K3-Rob said:
Dang! I should probably change the title of this thread. Can one of you help with that?
Click to expand...
Yep, around here stuff gets fixed so all you have to do is ask. We're not slackers that only show up once or twice a week... :ROFLMAO:
CB450K3-Rob said:
For the engine, I was going to try to modestly increase performance without sacrificing reliability. So I was thinking modest boring (+1mm?), slight increase in comp ratio, improving the ignition... I'll start scouring the forum for other ideas for engine improvements/mods.
Click to expand...
A 1mm overbore won't net you much of an increase, you probably wouldn't feel it much if at all. You can safely and reliably go 3mm over (482cc) and even without any intended increase in compression ratio, you'll get a slight bump just because of the larger volume you'll be pushing into the same combustion chamber. And if you wanted to spend the additional money, you could go with a mild set of cams for it too. An aftermarket electronic ignition would help too, the only reason I don't have one on my red 450 is because no one makes a true affordable EI with electronic advance anymore so you still have to use the mechanical advancer. Hey, I'm running a 4 amp lithium ion battery (no electric start), stock charging system and points, and my bike spins 11,000 rpm without a miss.
 
Last edited:
CB450K3-Rob said:
LDR: The guy I bought it from (Ethan) lives in Portland, OR, but when I transferred the title, the lady told me it had been previously licensed in WA state.

For the engine, I was going to try to modestly increase performance without sacrificing reliability. So I was thinking modest boring (+1mm?), slight increase in comp ratio, improving the ignition... I'll start scouring the forum for other ideas for engine improvements/mods.
Click to expand...
Found him, member Ethano https://www.vintagehondatwins.com/forums/index.php?members/ethano.80/
 
ancientdad said:
This is usually because the bike was titled when it sold, which was probably either after September 1st of 1970 or even later if it was sold in '71. Back then, if bikes didn't sell in the year they were released by Honda, they were simply held over until the following year and titled when they were sold. This is why we always ask about the details to properly identify the bike, because for our purposes the K series is more important than the year.

Yep, around here stuff gets fixed so all you have to do is ask. We're not slackers that only show up once or twice a week... :ROFLMAO:

A 1mm overbore won't net you much of an increase, you probably wouldn't feel it much if at all. You can safely and reliably go 3mm over (482cc) and even without any intended increase in compression ratio, you'll get a slight bump just because of the larger volume you'll be pushing into the same combustion chamber. And if you wanted to spend the additional money, you could go with a mild set of cams for it too. An aftermarket electronic ignition would help too, the only reason I don't have one on my red 450 is because no one makes a true affordable EI with electronic advance anymore so you still have to use the mechanical advancer. Hey, I'm running a 4 amp lithium ion battery (no electric start), stock charging system and points, and my bike spins 11,000 rpm without a miss.
Click to expand...
+3mm does sound better... I was a little worried about heat if I go too big. I hadn't thought of cams thinking they would be harder to come by - I'll look into those as well. I am willing to spend some money to have something a little more special. For instance, I finally found the oil pump on eBay and an willing to pay for that. Unfortunately, they're out of stock. :/ I noticed that too about the EI. But I thought that if I have a newly built motor with a correctly adjusted timing chain, that maybe the mechanical advance would be 'good enough'. Maybe there's a mod for cam timing accuracy?

Thanks for giving me some more options!
 
CB450K3-Rob said:
+3mm does sound better... I was a little worried about heat if I go too big. I hadn't thought of cams thinking they would be harder to come by - I'll look into those as well. I am willing to spend some money to have something a little more special. For instance, I finally found the oil pump on eBay and an willing to pay for that. Unfortunately, they're out of stock. :/ I noticed that too about the EI. But I thought that if I have a newly built motor with a correctly adjusted timing chain, that maybe the mechanical advance would be 'good enough'. Maybe there's a mod for cam timing accuracy?

Thanks for giving me some more options!
Click to expand...
Wow! That sounds great! What exhaust do you have? [I can't resist a good wheelie too!]
 
CB450K3-Rob said:
+3mm does sound better... I was a little worried about heat if I go too big. I hadn't thought of cams thinking they would be harder to come by - I'll look into those as well. I am willing to spend some money to have something a little more special. For instance, I finally found the oil pump on eBay and an willing to pay for that. Unfortunately, they're out of stock. :/ I noticed that too about the EI. But I thought that if I have a newly built motor with a correctly adjusted timing chain, that maybe the mechanical advance would be 'good enough'. Maybe there's a mod for cam timing accuracy?

Thanks for giving me some more options!
Click to expand...
Well, mine is 4mm oversize (497cc) and 11.6:1. I bought them from Terry Naughtin (Team Hansen Honda AHRMA fame) before he retired but I'm pretty sure he had Wiseco make his. The parts add up fast, I have about $2500 in my engine. You don't have many choices for cams, most of the 'other' suppliers get theirs from MegaCycle Cams who've been doing it since before I bought a set for my first drag bike in '73. They make at least 2 sets that are safe for street riding that you can use with the stock torsion bar valve springs. You can go more radical but conversion to coil valve springs is really recommended for longevity because you can't safely add tension to the stock torsion bars and they have their limit on lift. I'm running the MegaCycle 120-40 cams, long duration (280°) with only roughly .060" more lift. WebCam makes 450 cams too but I've never used them. Todd Henning Racing (or Wiseco themselves, his supplier I believe) still sells oversized pistons but you can find 3mm kits online pretty easily. Cams run around $500 as do most piston sets. Cam chain tension has nothing to do with my reasoning about the advancer, it's just still mechanical and subject to wear and sloppiness but using it with the original points is obviously necessary. If your cam chain is properly tensioned there's no issue as far as timing goes.
 
ancientdad said:
Just open drag pipes.

If you like wheelies...

View attachment 30114 and yes, it's really me, that's my 450 on my phone View attachment 30115
Click to expand...
Oooh. Nice! That's too big for me on my bikes. ...Don Garlits. ...takes me back. My dad also introduced me to drag racing. I had his old 63 Chevy II we put a BB in it. Wish I still had it. [How many times has that phrase been muttered?!]
 
Thanks, I had a lot of fun back then! Still do now, but it doesn't compare to having that level of fun with a 600 lb, 100 hp behemoth that sounded like a Ferrari.
CB450K3-Rob said:
...Don Garlits. ...takes me back.
Click to expand...
I live only about 60 miles or so from his awesome museum, and if you've never been there it's definitely worth going if you're ever in the general area.
CB450K3-Rob said:
My dad also introduced me to drag racing. I had his old 63 Chevy II we put a BB in it. Wish I still had it. [How many times has that phrase been muttered?!]
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's another one worth having back again. Not as fast or quick, but my previously-owned '69 GTX with a modestly built 440 is another one, at least for me. However, my list is mostly bikes, probably 5 or so I'd LOVE to have back but are now financially out of reach unless my ship comes in.
 
Welcome! Great start to your build thread. It is cool to see that VHT is becoming THE go-to place online for solid DOHC 450 info and projects. Following along and looking forward to your progress. Good luck!
 
RobMan said:
Welcome to the forum and it is the absolute best place for info and advice on your new CB450 project (madnesss??). I recently picked up a CB450 K5 and found this forum and having a place to pose questions and get friendly and accurate answers is awesome and helps prevent discouragement from kicking in when you hit a bump. Just got back from taking my cylinder and pistons to a local machinist he confirmed that oversized pistons and a bore job are in the cards. But on the plus side neither piston was melted. ;) I look forward to following your travels.
Click to expand...
CB450K3-Rob said:
+3mm does sound better... I was a little worried about heat if I go too big. I hadn't thought of cams thinking they would be harder to come by - I'll look into those as well. I am willing to spend some money to have something a little more special. For instance, I finally found the oil pump on eBay and an willing to pay for that. Unfortunately, they're out of stock. :/ I noticed that too about the EI. But I thought that if I have a newly built motor with a correctly adjusted timing chain, that maybe the mechanical advance would be 'good enough'. Maybe there's a mod for cam timing accuracy?

Thanks for giving me some more options!
Click to expand...
Ok. If you go +3, be prepared for the following:

1. There are no head gaskets. None. I think I bought the last one on the internet and it was corroded straight out of the bag. You have to get custom copper made and anneal it in your oven. I do have the contact info for a guy that has the template and will cut whatever bore you want (you’ll need 74.5mm at a minimum, 75 is better to give a 1Mil clearance in the firing chamber.

2. There is one manufacturer that makes rings for these pistons. They’ve been out of production since the 80’s. It’s also a one piece oil ring, so I hope the tips of your fingers are made of steel for that install. There’s almost no taper left on the cylinder when bored that far over. The rings themselves aren’t crazy expensive when they do pop up. They’re just hard to find without also springing for the piston.

3. The pistons themselves are a tough find. Get your eBay alerts ready. They usually run about $120/ea.

-OR-

4. Go whole hog, budget be damned. +4 forged high comp pistons.

Both are likely going to give you marginal performance differences (+4 is definitely going to give you more of a drag pull type of ride). Honestly, if my basketcase didn’t have those +3 pistons already, I would have stuck with stock.

Before you decide to do anything, do a full inventory of the top end components you have in hand, and what will need to be replaced there. That’s where a ton of the project $$ can fly off to very quickly. It’s probably about $1200-1400 to replace everything with NOS or reman - that can alter the build budget fairly quickly. I’d make sure that and the carb brass are OEM and as close to new as possible first and foremost.

Just some lessons I’ve learned so far in my donkey of a project. Parts on these things are rare, getting to the fringe of rare can lead to momentum killing project delays while sourcing. In hindsight, this is the path I would have started on first, rather than electrical first.
 
EzPete said:
4. Go whole hog, budget be damned. +4 forged high comp pistons.
Click to expand...
Well, my bike is living proof that 4mm oversized high-compression pistons can survive just fine when properly cared for. And I run the hell out of my bike most times I ride it.
 
ancientdad said:
Well, my bike is living proof that 4mm oversized high-compression pistons can survive just fine when properly cared for. And I run the hell out of my bike most times I ride it.
Click to expand...
Oh. It’s doable for sure. Just takes some $$$ to make it happen. Honestly, there’s more stuff out there for the +4’s it feels like.
 
Well, I definitely want something a little more than stock. So, +3 or +4 is probably what I'm after. But that does sound a lot more difficult to get everything I'll need. EzPete, is all that true for +2, as well? Is there an easy way? Looks like <= +1 parts are easy to find. [Now I have to figure out eBay alerts! :) I wasn't sure if eBay parts were quality.]

Maybe it's easier to get a little more cam than a little more ccs. My budget is ample, but not unlimited. Always looking the the best bang for the buck.
 
Well, I promised to describe my vision for this build. I saw a CB450 build on YT that inspired me in a few ways. I have always liked the clean look (less is more), so that's a big driver. I'm a big fan of the mono shock if you're going custom and not restoring. That, and less pipe - I like the GP look. Nothing but a wheel and tire in the back, if you get my drift.

Engine: (1) reliable, (2) more power without sacrificing torque, (3) sound like AD's. Fix all the "features" that Honda gave us. Jays oil pump. Drilling the case for better side stand oiling ??? - need more research here, Electronic Ignition. Keep the Keihins, with pods.

Rear Suspension: Mono shock. I'd like to keep it clean and mount the shock to the swing arm in front of the tire - vertical oriented shock, like a modern bike, but without the bell crank. But that would require much more work to the swing arm to support bending moment and make room for the shock mount - need some lever arm so that would likely extend the swing arm. I'd settle for making a hoop around the tire above the swing arm that is attached to the OEM shock mounts. Then attaching the mono-shock to that hoop, thereby putting the shock more in-line, horizontal position. In this case, my swing arm needs little/no mods.

Forks: I thought about going upside down, but I think that might be overkill. I wonder if there's some more simple upgrades to improve braking and feel. Still thinking about this. I'm not racing the bike. I'm just building it to enjoy building, taking it on weekend rides, and showing it off at the A&W.

Electronics: m-Unit. Fancy controls. New tech. Not sure what that means yet, but it looks like there are a lot of cool parts out there. LED headlight.

Aesthetics: Frame will be black, but I'd like to polish a lot of parts. I want to get a cool (silver/metal) paint job on the tank (and fenders?) that looks like an iron meteorite with a transparent gold stripe as a nod to the original color.

Ergonomics: Comfortable (upright) riding.

You guys got any thoughts, suggestions?

Cheers!
 
Head gaskets are still available, Cometic makes them and people like Todd Henning still sell them. 3mm over would be more difficult only because kits of that size aren't as easy to find as 4mm kits, and if Henning is still selling kits he'll get you a head gasket with it. Pods with Keihin carbs means lots of work to make the jetting and rideability right. Drilling the crankcase under/behind the pump does not make sidestand idling better, quite the reverse. Since the pump - any pump - is located in the right side of the engine and the bike is leaning left, you'd have to be a quart overfull for it to be completely safe idling for a while on the sidestand. I run mine a pint over and still do not trust idling on the sidestand. More power comes from more cubic inches overall, but when you add most cams into the mix it typically means less torque and more high rpm power (actual horsepower). The long duration cams I'm running (120-40) are fairly flat under 6000 rpm, actually weaker than stock under 5000, but above 6000 it pulls like crazy all the way to 10,500. MegaCycle does make a wide powerband grind (the 120-x11 and 120-x12), but I had a set of those first and wasn't overly impressed with them and found the ones I have now (used) and made a trade with another guy (in Australia) for them.

450 cam specs.png

This is what the stock cams look like compared to the 120-40s.

450 stock cam.png 450 mc120-40.png
 
"Ergonomics: Comfortable (upright) riding."
Sit up and pray riding is the worst thing for your back, all the seat impact over bumps is translated vertically up your spine. Instead a forward lean of 15-20 degrees is far better, just enough so your hands/wrists are lightly supporting your weight.
 
CB450K3-Rob said:
Well, I promised to describe my vision for this build. I saw a CB450 build on YT that inspired me in a few ways. I have always liked the clean look (less is more), so that's a big driver. I'm a big fan of the mono shock if you're going custom and not restoring. That, and less pipe - I like the GP look. Nothing but a wheel and tire in the back, if you get my drift.

Engine: (1) reliable, (2) more power without sacrificing torque, (3) sound like AD's. Fix all the "features" that Honda gave us. Jays oil pump. Drilling the case for better side stand oiling ??? - need more research here, Electronic Ignition. Keep the Keihins, with pods.

Rear Suspension: Mono shock. I'd like to keep it clean and mount the shock to the swing arm in front of the tire - vertical oriented shock, like a modern bike, but without the bell crank. But that would require much more work to the swing arm to support bending moment and make room for the shock mount - need some lever arm so that would likely extend the swing arm. I'd settle for making a hoop around the tire above the swing arm that is attached to the OEM shock mounts. Then attaching the mono-shock to that hoop, thereby putting the shock more in-line, horizontal position. In this case, my swing arm needs little/no mods.

Forks: I thought about going upside down, but I think that might be overkill. I wonder if there's some more simple upgrades to improve braking and feel. Still thinking about this. I'm not racing the bike. I'm just building it to enjoy building, taking it on weekend rides, and showing it off at the A&W.

Electronics: m-Unit. Fancy controls. New tech. Not sure what that means yet, but it looks like there are a lot of cool parts out there. LED headlight.

Aesthetics: Frame will be black, but I'd like to polish a lot of parts. I want to get a cool (silver/metal) paint job on the tank (and fenders?) that looks like an iron meteorite with a transparent gold stripe as a nod to the original color.

Ergonomics: Comfortable (upright) riding.

You guys got any thoughts, suggestions?

Cheers!
Click to expand...
On the electronics, it starts getting a bit limited on what you can really do past improving the ignition components, tying the stator poles together, LED Conversion, upgrading switches to modern technology and going GPS for the speedo, instead of the cable-driven. The lack of signal availability really limits the other measurables you can get access to for RPM data, Oil Pressure/Temp (although this one is apparently doable with some significant mods). I did try an RFID ignition, but the install location didn't work due to interference from the coils and I didn't feel like ripping the harness apart to relocate it to the dash. I had some really cool ideas around this with the proximity sensor accessory mode so It'll end up back there next winter for V.2 - I'm also going to see if I can find a way to get RPM data by cannibalizing the cable-driven speedo magnet assembly into some kind of sensor that I can mount to the tach bearing. Then there's this old Bosch TBI I have from a SuperBeetle that keeps winking at me from the corner of the garage, begging for a new home, but that would take some serious mods to both, and I highly doubt would lead to any worthwhile improvement in performance. If you do end up sourcing switches and stuff from Amazon, be really careful with the Aprile products when you're ordering. They've got a lot of stuff mislabeled.

One front fork mod I've seen a couple of times is the GSX-R front end swap. Takes the front end from a late 90's Gixxer 600 and swaps that on - I think the geometry might get away from your Ergonomics though.
 
Thought I'd chime back in! Also, I wanna see what Rob does with this, so following the thread.

Hijacking for a second for a shameless update: I still ride my CL175 regularly around Portland, but my motorcycling interests have really moved towards dirt riding and trials. Not to mention getting married and having a kid! That put the CB450 project on hold, and although it really tore my heart up, I decided to sell the project on to make some space. Anyway, glad to see the forum is alive and well. Rob, you have some serious experts here on this forum.

Any-who, back to Rob's project. Good luck, I'm tuning in!
 
ethano said:
Thought I'd chime back in! Also, I wanna see what Rob does with this, so following the thread.

Hijacking for a second for a shameless update: I still ride my CL175 regularly around Portland, but my motorcycling interests have really moved towards dirt riding and trials. Not to mention getting married and having a kid! That put the CB450 project on hold, and although it really tore my heart up, I decided to sell the project on to make some space. Anyway, glad to see the forum is alive and well. Rob, you have some serious experts here on this forum.

Any-who, back to Rob's project. Good luck, I'm tuning in!
Click to expand...
Thanks, Ethano. I will keep everyone updated with my (likely slow and intermittent) progress. Glad you're still enjoying your CL175.
 
As far as the ignition goes, I have one of these installed and it has been reliable so far;

www.elektronik-sachse.de

Digital Ignition ZDG 3.23 for Honda CB450K/CB500T/CL450

Digital ignition for Honda CB450K/CB500T/CL450 (Twin), replacement for breaker points and advancer. Ignition box dimensions Width: 70 mm Height: 20 mm Length: 85 mm Length including connections: 86 mm Advantages No ...
www.elektronik-sachse.de www.elektronik-sachse.de
 
did the ignition gave any probems during setup? is it adjusted in the same manner with the timing light? Im thinking of getting it for my CL200.
 
Latest update:
My head had a bad Exh cam. Luckily, I got extra parts from Ethano. I think 1 of the other 2 cams might work out so I don't need to repair. Trying to save some money by staying with a stock cam.

Also, I heard from Jays100 that he'll be making some more pumps soon.

Slow, but steady.
 
It's been a while since my last update.

My engine guy has been awesome. He's got so much experience with these engines and excellent suggestions (in addition to a parts supply - like oversized head gaskets!). I got completely lucky finding him so close to me (Vancouver, WA). [Just like I did with this group.]

He found some new Wiseco pistons for 73.5mm bore (490cc) to deliver ~10.25-10.5 CR. I'm sticking with the stock cam. I got a Capellini Oil flow conveyor for the exhaust side and a Jays Oil Pump! Should be a much better setup than stock. Lower end looks great. Getting new clutch friction plates just because. Keeping both the electric and kick starters. VM32s are also planned. Looking forward to a solid engine!

PXL_20240910_221411773.jpg

I was also asking him about easy front end upgrades. He suggested using a GL1000 front end (forks+triples) to get dual disk (w/ EBC rotors). He said there was another benefit too, but I forgot what it was. I'd be interested to hear what you guys think of that option.

Cheers!
-Rob
 
CB450K3-Rob said:
Lower end looks great.
Click to expand...
While you're in the clutch side you should replace the large shift detent roller (aka pizza cutter) and check the "star" shaped shift center on the end of the drum for wear on the tips of the "star". You can get a new detent roller from NOS Parts Now on eBay for $50. Better to do it now than find out later the detent roller was sloppy and it's causing you upshift issues between 2nd and 3rd.

www.ebay.com

New Honda CB450 K1-K7 CL450 K0-K6 Gear Shift Drum Stopper 24430-292-020 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New Honda CB450 K1-K7 CL450 K0-K6 Gear Shift Drum Stopper 24430-292-020 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

CB450K3-Rob said:
He suggested using a GL1000 front end (forks+triples) to get dual disk (w/ EBC rotors). He said there was another benefit too, but I forgot what it was. I'd be interested to hear what you guys think of that option.
Click to expand...
They're apparently 37mm tubes and would give you a stronger front end, plus dual discs. I'm not sure I'd worry about spending the money for aftermarket rotors for it, having twice the braking power up front than it came with will be plenty.
 
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