RC380 custom (from 1974 CL360)

I remember talking to Continental tyre rep at Earls Court, trying to find out how they made them 'limited slip'
The front ribbed had a slightly wider groove at outside edge that was designed to 'fold' slightly so it felt like front end was 'going away'
As soon as I found out, I just went around my normal route and wore the edge off.
The rubber 'string' made quite a mess as after it folded you wore through at a slightly different angle, flew back and hit exhaust pipes
It wasn't possible on BMW, heads banged on the ground at about same time as the 'slip' happened.
 
crazypj said:
I remember talking to Continental tyre rep at Earls Court, trying to find out how they made them 'limited slip'
The front ribbed had a slightly wider groove at outside edge that was designed to 'fold' slightly so it felt like front end was 'going away'
As soon as I found out, I just went around my normal route and wore the edge off.
The rubber 'string' made quite a mess as after it folded you wore through at a slightly different angle, flew back and hit exhaust pipes
It wasn't possible on BMW, heads banged on the ground at about same time as the 'slip' happened.
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The Conti front RB2 ?
 
Untame said:
Thanks for the tips. This new aftermarket CB175 fender is $45 from China. Not a fan of the chrome, but I can paint it to match the fairing except with high gloss clear coat.

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That actually looks exactly like the pattern CG125 part that I referred to, even down to the extended rear section. Available over here for around 22 UKP. David Silver used to stock them as a CG125 part, I found out by trial and error their resemblance to the CB175 part, and bought several at the time. I can't find them on the DS site these days. The chrome is very thin and they soon rust if not looked after. I still have a spare one tucked away in the loft.
 
It's bent, unusual to be bent that direction, probably had a LOT of weight on it at some time?
Check frame at mounting bracket, if it's been overloaded it could also be tweaked (less likely as mounting point was moved to a stronger area compared to various larger and earlier bikes (350F, 500F)
 
Shocking just how bent that stand is. o_O
I would consider purchasing an(non-bent)good,used kickstand.

I bought a bike that was used for many short trips in the city (SF) and the kickstand w/ special bolt has lots of wear,plus the top of the stand wasn't bolted-down tight,which caused the threaded part of it to get twisted in such a way that the special,shouldered bolt wouldn't properly thread-in anymore.
I found a good,used one that was in better condition which came with the special bolt(6000 orig. miles)and when it came in,I noticed(it isn't a quality cast one such as yours)it also has the top part of it w/ the threads bent just enough to cause cross-threading.
I worked a thread chaser through it and now it's good.
I plan to make sure to install it properly tight and keep maintaining the torque over time.
 
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Untame said:
Thanks for the tips. This new aftermarket CB175 fender is $45 from China. Not a fan of the chrome, but I can paint it to match the fairing except with high gloss clear coat.

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After some more research, I think this might not be wide enough for the 3.50-18 front tire. But the 1968-69 CB350 had a similar style. I am going to try to source a good used one.
 
Untame said:
After some more research, I think this might not be wide enough for the 3.50-18 front tire. But the 1968-69 CB350 had a similar style. I am going to try to source a good used
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Possibly try a CB400F front fender ?

A strong front fender will also stiffen the front end in similar fashion to a fork brace.
 
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If you still have the CL360 forks, for a 19" rim, I'd check the fender mount hole distance from center of axle. Probably the same as my 73 CL350.
I can measure my 68 CB350 fender for width and that mount height. I also have a 73 CB350K5 to measure fender and fork hole location if needed. The 73 fender is a bit wider too.
 
crazypj said:
All you really need are the 'arms' then source any mudguard with correct profile
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Yes, the straight struts are what matters for the aesthetic. It seems easier to just use the entire fender rather than piecing something together. I might have to modify the mount.
 
ballbearian said:
If you still have the CL360 forks, for a 19" rim, I'd check the fender mount hole distance from center of axle. Probably the same as my 73 CL350.
I can measure my 68 CB350 fender for width and that mount height. I also have a 73 CB350K5 to measure fender and fork hole location if needed. The 73 fender is a bit wider too.
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I'm using the CL360 forks, but the rim is 18in.

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I haven't found it needed one, although I have bought a few over the years from cheap to 'not so cheap' to OEM from sport bikes.
Any of the smaller hydraulic ones should be fine although you will probably have to make mounts.
Stock bottom yoke has a boss cast in you need to drill and tap 8 x1.25, many other Honda's had it as well in the 70's
 
Untame said:
I'm using the CL360 forks, but the rim is 18in.

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All the CB fenders are 4" wide but the 68-69 has the straight side struts that you want, the later ones angle down to attach near the axel. The 68-69 have even mount bosses about 198mm from axle center on the older style fork legs. They may be modifiable for a second higher hole to mount on the later forks in your pic. No doubt they are harder to find.

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Tom,the fender mounts are different for the K0-K3 CB350's.
The fender mounts are curved differently starting in K4-K5 plus the same 'curved mount' fender will fit the 360 models and 400F.
 
bilbikek411 said:
Tom,the fender mounts are different for the K0-K3 CB350's.
The fender mounts are curved differently starting in K4-K5 plus the same 'curved mount' fender will fit the 360 models and 400F.
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Yes Bill. The older forks (on my K0) are only 103mm between the boss faces and the K4 and K5 measure 128mm. Maybe with spacers, or stretching some, the older fender with the straight side braces could fit. The staggered bosses on the later forks would still need another hole drilled in the fender brace.
 
ballbearian said:
All the CB fenders are 4" wide but the 68-69 has the straight side struts that you want, the later ones angle down to attach near the axel. The 68-69 have even mount bosses about 198mm from axle center on the older style fork legs. They may be modifiable for a second higher hole to mount on the later forks in your pic. No doubt they are harder to find.
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Looks like right at 20cm. My lower hole is around 20.8, so if I can drill a second hole higher on the bracket I might end up with an extra 8mm of clearance. That would be acceptable.

I've found one on Ebay. Condition is fair (scuffs and minor dents, but no cracks). I'm going to paint it anyway, but it would be nice if I found one without the dents.
 
ballbearian said:
Yes Bill. The older forks (on my K0) are only 103mm between the boss faces and the K4 and K5 measure 128mm. Maybe with spacers, or stretching some, the older fender with the straight side braces could fit. The staggered bosses on the later forks would still need another hole drilled in the fender brace.
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Small spacers should be easy enough.
 
Like an idiot, I sold the original (working) tachometer because I figured I'd be using aftermarket gauges. Now that I have restored the speedometer I decided I like the vintage gauges and want the matching tach. So, I've found one in Chicago, and my daughter is picking it up for me tonight. The guy also has new brake cables, new tach cable, and new speedometer cable, so I'm also getting some parts I was going to need anyway.
 
Today I started some painting - fork aluminum parts and aluminum triple tree clamp. I decided to go with VHT Roll Bar and Chassis epoxy in Satin Black because I've read good things about it. It is the paint I'm planning on using on my frame.

All parts were degreased in the parts washer, dried, glass bead blasted, then final rinse with brake cleaner before painting. Parts were placed on the warming rack above my wood cookstove before I took them outside to paint them (about 50 degrees outside). After each coat I brought them into my heated garage and hung them to dry.

For some background, I am very experienced in rattle-can-restoration of miscellaneous small parts. When i was restoring cars professionally I would always do the brake clean rinse (3M chlorinated), Duplicolor Self Etching primer, and my go-to black was Plastikote "gloss" black (it was actually a nicely muted gloss that leaned toward semi-gloss). I LOVE Plastikote paint. The cans handle beautifully -- perfect rate of application, easy to see it flash to wet, almost impossible to make it run. But... I guess Duplicolor owned (or bought) Plastikote, and decided to discontinue the sale of this product line in the USA. (I still have some on the shelf, and I am using it sparingly like fine wine.)

I liked the idea that VHT Roll Bar was self-priming, and I saw reviews which praised its look and durability. I was able to get a can from O'Reilly's for $15 (yikes!). But frankly, I'm a little disappointed. The instructions say to lay down two light coats at least 10 minutes apart, and then a medium-wet top coat (all coats within one hour). I really tried to hit the parts with a light coat, but the rate it dispenses is quite fast. If you back off pressure on the button (which has a hair trigger) you end up with sputtering drops flinging at the part. Instead I tried to do quick bursts of sweeps about 12-14 inches from the parts. Unfortunately, I actually ended up with runs on my first light coat! Never had that issue with Plastikote even though I laid down the first coat wet. I decided to make the second coat my "medium-wet" application, and I didn't see any new runs from that.

In reality, I only see the runs on the aluminum castings for the bottom of the forks, and even then only on close inspection. I'm going to let it slide because it probably won't ever be noticed on the assembled bike. (It helps that it is satin sheen.) But this was a disappointment. I really was hoping to find my next favorite basic black rattle-can paint.

Fortunately, the triple tree clamp turned out nice without runs. Good thing, because I would notice it constantly.

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So... I've been waiting for parts to come in, and they have arrived.

The seat was quite the debacle. I ordered from REMMotorcycles, and I paid extra to have the cowl painted red. After several months of back and forth it was determined that the seller couldn't get his painter to get the job done, so I asked for him to refund the painting fee and send me a stock seat. Frankly, I really like the seat. I expect to cut the back of it to have a slight taper upwards, and I don't think painting it myself will be too difficult.

The fairing and windscreen was ordered from Gustafsson (now, GP Cycle Works). I expected it to take some time, and it did (about 2 months). The quality appears to be adequate, but the finish is less than excellent. I was expecting a smooth gel-coat, but it is a white powdery finish with imperfections (chips and warts). Also, the trimmed edges are not sanded straight (have humps) nor is the headlight opening circular (has flat spots). It is going to require more reworking, but for $750 I expected something ready for paint. On top of this, they were supposed to pre-fit the windscreen and drill the fairing, but this was overlooked, and they were supposed to include two sets of mounting brackets, but again, they forgot to include them. But at the end of the day, where else am I going to get a race fairing like this? I'm just thankful they took over for AirTech. Seems like they might be going through some growing pains assimilating this product line.

I have located the fuel tank where I want it for aesthetic geometry, and in this picture I have positioned the seat where I plan on mounting it. As you can see, I have a 3.5in gap between the two. My thought is to make a seat extension to fill in the gap because I have the tank where I want it and the seat cowl where it should be.

Currently trying to find a 205mm (outside width) upswept seat loop. A rare bird indeed. Anyone know where I can get a 203-205mm upswept seat loop (1in tube)? I see REMMotorcycles lists one, but after my last experience with them I'm reluctant to order again.

(Black on the back of the tank is melted rubber. I had to heat up the inside of the tunnel to reshape it to fit around the frame, and I didn't realize it was getting hot enough to burn into my anti-fatigue mat on the floor.)

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Untame said:
So... I've been waiting for parts to come in, and they have arrived.

The seat was quite the debacle. I ordered from REMMotorcycles, and I paid extra to have the cowl painted red. After several months of back and forth it was determined that the seller couldn't get his painter to get the job done, so I asked for him to refund the painting fee and send me a stock seat. Frankly, I really like the seat. I expect to cut the back of it to have a slight taper upwards, and I don't think painting it myself will be too difficult.

The fairing and windscreen was ordered from Gustafsson (now, GP Cycle Works). I expected it to take some time, and it did (about 2 months). The quality appears to be adequate, but the finish is less than excellent. I was expecting a smooth gel-coat, but it is a white powdery finish with imperfections (chips and warts). Also, the trimmed edges are not sanded straight (have humps) nor is the headlight opening circular (has flat spots). It is going to require more reworking, but for $750 I expected something ready for paint. On top of this, they were supposed to pre-fit the windscreen and drill the fairing, but this was overlooked, and they were supposed to include two sets of mounting brackets, but again, they forgot to include them. But at the end of the day, where else am I going to get a race fairing like this? I'm just thankful they took over for AirTech. Seems like they might be going through some growing pains assimilating this product line.

I have located the fuel tank where I want it for aesthetic geometry, and in this picture I have positioned the seat where I plan on mounting it. As you can see, I have a 3.5in gap between the two. My thought is to make a seat extension to fill in the gap because I have the tank where I want it and the seat cowl where it should be.

Currently trying to find a 205mm (outside width) upswept seat loop. A rare bird indeed. Anyone know where I can get a 203-205mm upswept seat loop (1in tube)? I see REMMotorcycles lists one, but after my last experience with them I'm reluctant to order again.

(Black on the back of the tank is melted rubber. I had to heat up the inside of the tunnel to reshape it to fit around the frame, and I didn't realize it was getting hot enough to burn into my anti-fatigue mat on the floor.)

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Slowly coming together. :) (y)
I also think it's difficult to source certain parts.. and have the parts match the description,literally.
The shape of the tank looks good.
 
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