IIRC the 350 axle would work, I know the 450 won't. This is what the tool version looks like
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Newbie Engine Rebuild? CA160
- Thread starter bpink43
- Start date
The rear axle of that bike works as a puller.
With the crank out of the bike it’s fun - you’ll need to figure out some way of bracing the crank to keep it from rotating.
Screw the axle in until is snugs all the way down and tap on the end of the axle as you tighen the axle into the rotor. It’ll pop off.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
A handheld battery impact wrench will tend to loosen the rotor without turning the crank, but you could also support the rotor with a slap wrench, available in most auto parts stores.
I would keep the clutch sprocket together with the rotor when you remove it from the crankshaft. The sprocket just slides off. There are some springs and caps that push a roller against the sprocket and could go flying if you are not careful (#8,9 and 27)
I plan on sliding the sprockets all of together and right back on the other shaft. Is that possible to do? I didn’t plan on taking any of it apart.
Before you take it off, you can see if it's functioning properly. The sprocket should turn freely in one direction but not the other. It's always good to take it apart and inspect the springs, caps and rollers for any wear. Also make sure the three screws holding part #7 to the rotor are tight and there is no play in part #7. If you remove the sprocket from the rotor, the rollers should move freely in their slots in part #7. Since you are there, it's better to check now but can always be done later with the engine in the frame.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
As @boddy mentioned, it should all slide off. Handle things carefully and try to prepare for the possibility that a roller, spring, or cap comes out unexpectedly.
A towel or something underneath isn't a bad idea. Working over a drain or grate or next to a heavy appliance would be a bad idea.
I was looking around today at replacement clutch plates, does anyone know of a good place to get them. I found a set on eBay for $90 +$30 shipping. And then a lot of single plates as well. Not even sure mine are bad but figured while everything is apart might as well replace them.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
The steel plates generally do not need to be replaced unless they are warped. I had my old ones vapor blasted for my recent CB350 build.
I see friction discs for CB160 available at different price points on eBay. Individuals for $15.99. A couple of sets at $75 plus $7 shipping and some cheaper sets.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
You might check your FSM for guidance. I'll include the analogous part of the CB350 manual, which discusses the thickness of the friction discs and the warpage of the steel plates. There is a specification for the springs also.
Yeah. Steels are reusable and actually clean up fairly well.
Green scotch brite and WD40 do a pretty good job of getting that old clutch material and gunk off. I have some wheels I bought for my drill that make it pretty easy.
Look for any bluing and check their warpage on a piece of glass or granite.
Unfortunately - this little section is typical of what “out of spec” is in that FSM.
No measurement for clutch spring - I went with “if they’re all the same length it’s win together/lose together”. But there’s a lot of those in this manual.
That .2mm spec shows up in a lot of the clutch specs, so that’s what I used as the max warpage. Just lay the disc flat and try to slide a feeler gauge under it.
Got my rotor swapped to new crankshaft today along with sprocket. All went smoothly and things looking good order. One question Inhave though is if the gear should have any movement left/right? Mine has some slight play left to right. Assume this will be taken up once the crank is put back in the case
Not sure if assembling everything will remove all side play in the starter clutch sprocket (it's not a gear), but I wonder if #26 is intended to reduce sprocket movement for this engine like a similar bolt and tab does for the 350. Unfortunately it's impossible to be sure with the well below average illustrations in the older FSMs combined with the equivalently poor exploded views of the older parts fiches, but it seems to be in a similar position with respect to the starter clutch and sprocket as the 350 version.
PLATE SETTING for Honda - order at CMSNL
✓ Good to order: PLATE SETTING ✓ Manufacturer Part Number: 28117-216-000 ✓ Quality part
www.cmsnl.com
This is the 350 version, #3 in this case
PLATE,SETTING for Honda - order at CMSNL
✓ Good to order: PLATE,SETTING ✓ Manufacturer Part Number: 28117-286-010 ✓ Quality part
www.cmsnl.com
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So, I have been working on getting my engine cases cleaned up in preparation for getting my cylinder and head back from being rebuilt/bored, but they definitely need some additional "cosmetic" help. What are the thoughts on getting these bead blasted and then subsequently powder coated or painted? I like that powder coating is more durable but have read concerns with the ability to dissipate heat. My thoughts are to have the cylinder jug and head in black while the side cases and crank case in the aluminum silver color. I have all new seals and gaskets so hopefully I will be able to get things back and ready to start reassembly of the engine.
Raw bead blasted looks really good most of the time. Or you can do the thorough scrub/degrease/paint with Aluminum VHT Engine Enamel. Just make sure if you do either, put some sacrificial screws/bolts in the crankcase holes to avoid getting media in there, and flush the heck out of the block after blasting.
I've seen a few different combos for the black and silver, the idea I had for my next one was outer covers polished, case black, jugs black, head black but leave the outer edge of the fins silver, almost like a progressive fade from black to silver.
I like your idea on painting yours. That will look great! Is powder coat just a bad idea for these old engines? I feel comfortable enough to paint myself but just thinking durability/longevity.
Powder coat can theoretically lead to some heat dissipation issues - but I’m not aware of anything that conclusively states one way or the other.
Paint being the common choice is likely due to ease and cost.
Remove the spring loaded detent arm near the shift drum. Bend the tabs back on the lock washers on the bolts for the shift forks. Remove the bolts completely then pull the drum out while you slide each fork off the drum.
Edit: sometimes there is a little sleeve on the end of the bolt, make sure you fish that out before trying to remove the fork.
Edit: sometimes there is a little sleeve on the end of the bolt, make sure you fish that out before trying to remove the fork.
So I have removed as well as the lock washers and bolts from the shift forks and those now slide freely back-and-forth on the shift drum however I still cannot slide the shift drum out. There is definitely something keeping it from moving. Any ideas what I’m missing?
There’s a good chance it’s got some hondabond or something similar there. That seal looks like it was replaced at some point - remove that so you can get a little more wiggle while you press out toward the shift detent. Make sure the forks aren’t catching as well.
It’s one of those things that’s finicky to crack loose
It’s one of those things that’s finicky to crack loose
@ancientdad that was the ticket! I hadn’t removed that bolt and that’s what was holding it in.
Just got my cylinders back this week. Mike Nelson got them bored to the next size up 0.25 and new piston and rings measured and paired to each cylinder. Thanks @ancientdad for connecting me with Mike to get this work done. 
I do have a different question. I’ve taken my starter motor apart (it was working just fine) in order to give it a thorough cleaning and re-grease the gears. However, there is a gasket that I can’t seem to find a part number for. It’s the gasket that goes between the planetary gears and this plate. As seen in the first picture.
It’s in pretty rough shape and there is actually a small piece missing on left side in the photo. Maybe it will clean up enough to reuse but figured if I could find one, I’d just replace. Guess I could always buy gasket material and make one.
I've only ever had one starter motor apart and it was long ago, but I'm wondering if gasket thickness might be a factor there.
I wouldn’t worry about that thin part - it’s a pretty decent ways outside the pressure ring. Could always cut one but it’s pretty detailed and circles are always tough without a punch.
Word of advice on putting it back together, chase those holes the two long screws go into, and go really easy on the heads those things are soft and you’re putting a surprising amount of torque on a 4mm screw.
Looking really nice! Make sure to blast out all the blind holes with some brake cleaner - often times the vapor blast will compact some junk and gunk down in there and all of a sudden a 28mm M6 only has 26mm of space.
Don’t forget anti seize (particularly if you’re switching up to stainless) and some assembly lube. I also like a ketchup squirt bottle of 30w clean oil as well to give the valvetrain a good squeezing before you start rotating it around.
Don’t forget anti seize (particularly if you’re switching up to stainless) and some assembly lube. I also like a ketchup squirt bottle of 30w clean oil as well to give the valvetrain a good squeezing before you start rotating it around.
I would also run a tap into all the blind holes just to make sure there is no media left in there.
So I have a couple of questions/dilemma. I am still on the fence about painting the head and jug black (need to make up my mind) but the cases are so clean and look good that I am wondering if I should do something specific to them to preserve their appearance. Would a good wax job work to keep them looking new as they are after being blasted? Should I go ahead and paint them silver to try and preserve this look? I just dont want them to get back to the state they were in before being blasted. Granted this bike will not be a daily rider and always be garage kept. My next question is with the side covers. They show some wear and pitting even after being vapor blasted. They are good and cleaned and look good but the pitting bugs me. Should I fill the pits with JB weld and powder coat them? Would powder coat alone be enough to fill the pits? Or maybe I should leave well enough alone and just begin the reassembly process. I welcome any thoughts.
For the pitting you could remove the pitting by sanding down the metal to get an even finish, or use something like JB Steel Stik to fill the holes. I sanded down the pitting on my CB450 and ended up painting the lower cases and side covers with VHT Caliper paint topped with a 2K Satin clear.
www.vintagehondatwins.com
On my C78 I am currently filling the pock marks with Tech Steel (equivalent of the JB Steel Stik) and will be painting the cases.
The other alternative is to smooth out the pitting and have the cases Cerakoted. Not sure if the JB Steel Stik would withstand the Cerakote temperatures, but filling the pits would be another option.
Painting the head and cylinders interferes with the heat dissipation, however, many members have done it.
Pitted Aluminum
I have some rather deep pitting in my sprocket cover case and was wondering what the best way would be to fix this. I intend to rattle can the cases but it has been suggested in other threads not to use primer so I don't think primer will work to fill in the holes. What would be a good filler...
www.vintagehondatwins.com
On my C78 I am currently filling the pock marks with Tech Steel (equivalent of the JB Steel Stik) and will be painting the cases.
The other alternative is to smooth out the pitting and have the cases Cerakoted. Not sure if the JB Steel Stik would withstand the Cerakote temperatures, but filling the pits would be another option.
Painting the head and cylinders interferes with the heat dissipation, however, many members have done it.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Any time for this project lately? I hope it's moving along well.
It has been a busy summer so far with both my kids and all their activities. My son in competitive travel baseball and daughter in competitive dance. I’ve little to no time for this project. However, slowly but surely I was able to finally get my head and jug painted. I started by sanding and polishing the fins and then masking all of them. But here is the result fresh after some paint.It’s been slow going. I hoped to be much further along but with kids activities it’s been tough.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Slow is way better than not at all. Sometimes projects will just abruptly stop and the member will disappear, so I'm glad that is not the case here.
The paint came out very well. Hopefully the kids' activities do as well!
old timer
Veteran Member
Very nice job. Those of us that have done this know how much work is involved. What type of paint did you use?
Bill H
Bill H
I used the VHT gloss black engine enamel. I sprayed it up and let air dry, then baked it in my powder coat oven at 200F for an hour per the directions on the can.