My ‘71 CL350

There are places that can work magic popping out motorcycle tank dents, here's a local one just so you get the flavor, don't know these guys and never used them but I'm aware of this sort of thing. I wouldn't go into a whole thing about that dent.


I'm not blame-free as it pertains to risky business loading bikes and so forth but unless it's an emergency...listen, here's what I'm drivin' at....is there not a buddy system in place where you are? Seems to me that running bikes up ramps is an iffy-enough proposition that a helper should be there unless absolutely not available. I've seen a lotta guys slip and trip at the track trying to load and it's totally avoidable

Full disclosure: I couldn't gangpress the War Department into helping me push the WR450F up the driveway once....she refused, without comment
 
I do hope this dent can be pulled cleanly. It's a beautiful bike and tank.
My understanding (and I have seen photos of these tools) is that they have clever bent long-reach shaped anvils and so forth enabling clever hammer-on and hammer-off techniques that remove dents and leave the paint

Grain of salt on my comments: Riding is important, looks somewhat less
 
There are places that can work magic popping out motorcycle tank dents, here's a local one just so you get the flavor, don't know these guys and never used them but I'm aware of this sort of thing. I wouldn't go into a whole thing about that dent.


I'm not blame-free as it pertains to risky business loading bikes and so forth but unless it's an emergency...listen, here's what I'm drivin' at....is there not a buddy system in place where you are? Seems to me that running bikes up ramps is an iffy-enough proposition that a helper should be there unless absolutely not available. I've seen a lotta guys slip and trip at the track trying to load and it's totally avoidable

Full disclosure: I couldn't gangpress the War Department into helping me push the WR450F up the driveway once....she refused, without comment
Thanks for the conformation of speciality service options and possibility of getting the dent pulled.

Yeah, my war department refused as well. Oh trust me. I in no way wanted to load my bike into the back of a truck on my own. I was required to take my bike back in for VIN inspection, again, to insure it is not stolen to appease the Kansas Department of Revenue. Plot twist, still not stolen.
To my sad life luck, my only buddy here out in rural Kansas works days during inspection hours, and with severe storms predicted every day and night except the day I did it, meaning alone. The rest of my friends are in Topeka. Did what was needed, with what I had, on the one day that I had, around my work travels.

I am in no way apposed to stripping and painting a tank. To be fair, one of my fork ears is dented, and currently have no side covers. This is the kick in the ass to do those things at the same time as the tank. In fact, ordered a tank already on ebay and will be here waiting when I get back from my next work trip. Sadly January-May are my busy travel times so getting to it will be a bit.
 
It has been a little while since posting on the CL350. I did get a new/old gas tank. As you can see, a bit faded, light surface rust, and 2 small dings on the outside. The PO had lined the tank which would not be a problem to me except both crossover tube outlets were lined closed/clogged. Tried wire, pipe cleaners snd guitar string attached to a drill and could not get it opened up.



 
So I used 3 gallons of acetone soaking overnight to remove the liner. No issues at all, and it started the paint removal process. 😁




As you can see, a bit rusty inside. First used 3 jugs of Evaporust I have been using since i started my build on many parts, nutz, and bolts. After a day of using the well used Evaporust it was spent, black. Rinsed very well several times, shaking it like crazy the fine few times still getting small flakes and bits. Moved onto a vinegar soak for a few days. Draining a little, shaking, and refilling a couple times a day. Drained, rinsed, and neutralized, and flushed again. Still the tiniest flakes of rust. 2 to 4 bits each rust. I will get back to this later. In the mean time, coated the inside with WD40. I will be getting more evaporust soon. Also, no pinhole leaks at all.
 
Majority of the paint removed here after 48 hours in a thick layer of citric strip wrapped in plastic, like Laura Palmer. Anyone get the reference? 😁 Currently in a second round of this.



I am looking for help/advice for this next part. Once I wash the citric strip off I plan to grind down to nice bare metal with a finer pad. I am concerned that with the constant storms here keeping humidity quite high about rust. I will be bondo-ing the small dents for a smooth surface, but will likely not be getting to primer, paint, and 2k clear coat right away. Do I hold off on the grinding till I am ready to go the full gambit? I do not see the humidity coming down for a while, which can affect the painting process. This will all be done in an open pole barn. Nowhere to store or work out of the elements. I thought once grinding I could coat in light oil and remove with acetone prior to more work. Not sure if this is the best move. Thoughts?!??

For this I am using SprayMax 2k primer and 2k clear coat, Duplicolor Bahama Blue, and also have the decal from cbdecals for my tank. New cap and ‘locking’ latch. Locking. Ha! I will be using my petcock and clear 5.5 fuel line from my original tank.
 
I think I would wait to remove the rest of the paint to avoid the oil/acetone steps. I don't think it would be a time saver. I would think you could still get a stronger paint remover (Aircraft brand works well) and that would eliminate the need for grinding. I scraped off the gooey paint after the remover did its thing and then used a fine steel wool, like 000 to clean the metal before primer. The next picture is how my XL350 tank looked after doing this.

f377a821-9263-48b9-80c8-a41d7739c96a-1_all_2739.jpg

What have you done to the inside after removing the liner? Oil there could be a good idea. Do you plan to line the tank again or did the acetone leave a clean surface?

The last time I cleaned a tank liner out I planned to go bare metal inside, but it flash rusted. I cleaned it again and used POR-15 with no issues.
 
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I think I would wait to remove the rest of the paint to avoid the oil/acetone steps. I don't think it would be a time saver. I would think you could still get a stronger paint remover (Aircraft brand works well) and that would eliminate the need for grinding. I scraped off the gooey paint after the remover did its thing and then used a fine steel wool, like 000 to clean the metal before primer. The next picture is how my XL350 tank looked after doing this.

View attachment 58801

What have you done to the inside after removing the liner? Oil there could be a good idea. Do you plan to line the tank again or did the acetone leave a clean surface?

The last time I cleaned a tank liner out I planned to go bare metal inside, but it flash rusted. I cleaned it again and used POR-15 with no issues.
For the liner that was in my tank, acetone was enough to loosen it and remove it in blobs of red gel.
I searched and realized I did not take pics of the inner take sadly. After the evaporust and vinegar it was shiny bare metal minus the tiny flakes I spoke about. Poured in about 1/4 gallon of WD40 right after a really good rinsing of the tank. Shiny.
I do not plan to reline the tank.
I look forward to seeing my tank outer surface in tomorrow evening after washing. If need be, aircraft brand is possible.
 
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