cellomaster
Well-known Member
You were right on the money. That fixed all the issues, running like a charm now!
-
Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.
AD
Idle Tuning and more, CB450K project
- Thread starter cellomaster
- Start date
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Hahaha I meant coils/condenser/plugs/etc...the whole ignition system
But no, no paint or anything like that.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Yeah....I really need to learn to listen to you guys sooner
All fixed now!
All fixed now!
Ummm, yeah...Yeah....I really need to learn to listen to you guys sooner
Glad it's running well now, but there's something still going on with that engine. Typical points gaps within spec usually result in the plate being more retarded than yours is so something is a little off, but if it runs well then who cares.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Well... It's back to not running correctUmmm, yeah...
Glad it's running well now, but there's something still going on with that engine. Typical points gaps within spec usually result in the plate being more retarded than yours is so something is a little off, but if it runs well then who cares.
after making the change of that little wire, I took it on a longer ride, and there was no backfire, no intermittent bogging, just very little power the entire time. I had very minor acceleration on gears 123, and absolutely nothing on four and five. Getting to 50 mph took so long, it was ridiculous. Is it possible that that wire is now grounding out on the backing plate? Or, did I just mess up the timing, and need to retime it?
Unless you loosened things that did not need to be loosened, nothing should have changed with respect to points gap and timing by simply rotating that terminal.Well... It's back to not running correct
Pictures (as is with the points cover off, don't touch it yet).
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Literally all I did was loosened that nut and bolt, to be able to move that wire terminal. Would it be worth it to test drive it again with the cover off? Not sure what that would do, but that was the thing that fixed it last time, or atleast made it run correctly.
Try it without the points cover, then if it runs okay post a picture of what you did to re-orient the terminal.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Well...figured out the cause of why it was intermittent running correctly. I fired it up again (took a long time, almost killed the battery) to test it out without a points cover on. It still wasn't really running great, and I kept on testing various things. I noticed that the right cylinder exhaust was still cold/luke-warm while the left side was already pretty toasty. With that in mind, I pulled the spark plug wire off, while it was running, and the RPM did not change at all. That led me to go back to the points, where I tried to get any spark or short the spark on the backing plate, and nothing would give on the right side points. The left side, easily spark, and I could easily kill the bike by shorting it on the backing plate.
All that to say, I do not have spark coming out of the right coil, and no power coming out of the blue wire from the condenser (If I have that mapped correctly). Any way to test for what to replace? Also, any reason why I would need to replace anything? I just bought all new ignition system (points, coils, condenser, etc.) in February from 4into1, and have only put ~600 miles on since then.
All that to say, I do not have spark coming out of the right coil, and no power coming out of the blue wire from the condenser (If I have that mapped correctly). Any way to test for what to replace? Also, any reason why I would need to replace anything? I just bought all new ignition system (points, coils, condenser, etc.) in February from 4into1, and have only put ~600 miles on since then.
On the right side coil, do you have 12v+ to the black wire?
All of the blue/yellow wires involved are on the “ground side”.
It might help to post a pic of how everything is wired there at the coil.
All of the blue/yellow wires involved are on the “ground side”.
It might help to post a pic of how everything is wired there at the coil.
Last edited:
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Yes, I do. Well, not quite 12v, but my battery is a little low too. It is on the charger now.
I also confirmed ground on all the coil/condenser mounting points, and it is all properly grounding.
Sorry for the bad photos, lots going on under there and its difficult to show it all properly.
Last edited:
cellomaster
Well-known Member
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Anyone want to play, spot the problem?
It is running good now, just needed to bend that tab away from the grounding point. Both cylinders are firing as normal.
It threw off the timing, I must have timed it previously with that issue still happening. Right side is smoking a bit, and its idling high. I am going to retime with the light and feeler gauges
It is running good now, just needed to bend that tab away from the grounding point. Both cylinders are firing as normal.
It threw off the timing, I must have timed it previously with that issue still happening. Right side is smoking a bit, and its idling high. I am going to retime with the light and feeler gauges
Last edited:
stl360+450
Veteran Member
That's a pretty easy one, once you look at it!
Yeah, that'll do it.
THIS is also important. That's what original and unmolested looks like. Perfect condition, likely untouched JIS screws.
(okay, so one is brand new and the other almost never gets touched... but still)
(okay, so one is brand new and the other almost never gets touched... but still)
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Important for what reason? Knowing that no one has gone deeper into the motor? I sure need to replace a few other bolts...some idiot who recently bought it sure is good at stripping them...
Bluetooth voltage hasn't quite arrived yet.
And if they did go in deeper, they had the right tools or replaced the stuff they damaged. Just an FYI, if you search the same part description for fasteners on the Honda Auto side, they'll be 1/3 the price and generally available for pickup at your local Honda dealer.
It started out to be an example of something to look for when considering a vintage Honda purchase, but then I remembered that one of them was missing when you bought it and the other is on the felt holder which often goes untouched the entire life of the bike (or points plate). So it became more of a joke instead.
But yes, when you see JIS engine screws that look like those two, it's almost guaranteed the engine hasn't been apart.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Alright, got her up and running properly again, definitely did better this time on setting timing. Doing it multiple times gets you much faster! If you want to see a video of it running:
I did notice some smoke coming out of the right cylinder, and it certainly is not near as hot as the left cylinder. I can hold my hand to the exhaust for a minute before feeling the heat for right side, and i can barely touch the left side exhaust. I also wanted to check the oil level, cause I am seeing some light smoke out of the right exhaust. I have been checking the oil from side stand, and am realizing now that was a mistake and i have had the oil level a wee bit high...checking it now on center stand, I am probably a quarter inch over the max line on the dip stick (not threading the dipstick in). Before draining off that extra oil, I want to confirm I am checking it correctly.
I did notice some smoke coming out of the right cylinder, and it certainly is not near as hot as the left cylinder. I can hold my hand to the exhaust for a minute before feeling the heat for right side, and i can barely touch the left side exhaust. I also wanted to check the oil level, cause I am seeing some light smoke out of the right exhaust. I have been checking the oil from side stand, and am realizing now that was a mistake and i have had the oil level a wee bit high...checking it now on center stand, I am probably a quarter inch over the max line on the dip stick (not threading the dipstick in). Before draining off that extra oil, I want to confirm I am checking it correctly.
Yes, check the oil with the bike held vertical or on the centerstand, dipstick not screwed in is correct. It's okay to be slightly overfull, I run my 450 that way regularly.
The way the engine sounds as it's slowing to idle tells me one cylinder's idle speed adjustment is slightly higher than the other.
The way the engine sounds as it's slowing to idle tells me one cylinder's idle speed adjustment is slightly higher than the other.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Well that is good to know, I'm right in between your fill line and the factor fill line.
Thanks for pointing that out, ill confirm each side again.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
You were 100% right. Left side was way higher. Both are correct now, and it drops much better and idles smoother too. Still smoking a bit out of the right side exhaust. Any ideas?
Could be just residual burnoff if it wasn't firing for a while. Let it warm up and get oil flow for a few minutes then do a slightly higher shift point ride for a bit and see if it cleans up.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Just did, and she rides truly perfectly. I am so pleased, its such a joy to ride!! Easily gets into redline, cleanly goes up and down the RPM range, great power transfer, the whole thing is just wonderful!
Thank y'all very much for your help!
Last edited:
Yep, it usually takes a real ride to get pipes fully cleared. Good to hear it's really running well now, happy for you!
cellomaster
Well-known Member
I have noticed since fixing this split, I have other holes and such all around both exhausts. Has anyone had any experience with buying aftermarket exhausts? Or would it be worth it to find a shop in town that would do these repairs and make it look like normal?
The factory CB pipes are by far the best looking and sounding - aftermarket always leaves a little to be desired there.
That said, the “you get what you pay for” mantra applies to aftermarket exhaust - there’s a lot of good options, but you’ll feel it.
Pinholes and stuff are fairly easy to solder - but if you’re like me it’s rough to get that to look right and really tough to do larger seams and stuff. It might be worth pulling them off and seeing if a local fabricator, welder or exhaust shop would be willing to do it for a reasonable price.
That said, the “you get what you pay for” mantra applies to aftermarket exhaust - there’s a lot of good options, but you’ll feel it.
Pinholes and stuff are fairly easy to solder - but if you’re like me it’s rough to get that to look right and really tough to do larger seams and stuff. It might be worth pulling them off and seeing if a local fabricator, welder or exhaust shop would be willing to do it for a reasonable price.
cellomaster
Well-known Member
I'm noticing some random loss of power under load, never idle, but in the higher rpms while in gear. It goes in and out, so my guess was looking at the carbs/fuel. Using some carb spray, I'm noticing the left side is not sealing fully onto the intake boot, which is pretty hard as it is. Anyone have any recommendations or experience with buying aftermarket boots, and which ones I oughta go find?
I got a set of repros from 4into1 that work well. Seems like they’re out of stock but could be worth an email to them to see if they’re getting more soon.
Quite a few NOS ones on EBay, but NOS rubber many times is totally rock hard as well.
Have you tried hitting the current one with a hair dryer or heat gun on low to see if you can get it to seat on the carb channel better? Or is it cracked?
Quite a few NOS ones on EBay, but NOS rubber many times is totally rock hard as well.
Have you tried hitting the current one with a hair dryer or heat gun on low to see if you can get it to seat on the carb channel better? Or is it cracked?
cellomaster
Well-known Member
Not cracked, no, just not tight and a bit hard (but i guess maybe they aren't supposed to be super flimsy rubber either). I am also thinking of putting on a new clamp, as the old one seems to be bottoming out before its fully tight.
Thanks for the advice!