CM400A occasional postings

[Windmill John]

I don’t really want to do a project thread per se, just mention the occasional point of interest or something that pops up none technical.
Any technical questions I would post under the SOHC model section.
If this is wrong, then happy to stop this little sojourn into little things that happen whilst working on the bike.

Anyway… I love the way the two steering head races sit in the headstock Just got them out very easily with a piece of hardwood. I say this because I remember on one bike, the races didn’t stick out, so you have nothing to hit. one allowed you to get a screwdriver just to catch. I know you can weld a small bar across the races and drive them out, but with my welding, I’d either blow through the headstock and close it totally

 

[Windmill John]

Just bought two tins of elbow grease
Clean and polished the rim on the front wheel. Back wheel can be seen!
Still, 45 years old, what do you expect.
I’ve cleaned the chrome best I can. I doing an, erm… sympathetic resto. Can’t afford or justify rechroming.
But… the important stuff is being done. Head bearings, fork seals, brake pads, cleaning and new fluids, copper grease galore. Of course, valve clearances, oils, carb strips etc. Basically, the mechanics are being done with some painting of bits.

 

[EzPete]

What’s you use as a polish on those Comcasts?

 

[Windmill John]

Auto Glym Super Resin Polish.
I’m not a pro, the coating doesn’t seem that thick. So I didn’t want to use scourers or Solvol etc.
I just spent time with the polish; twice.

 

[EzPete]

Auto Glym Super Resin Polish.
I’m not a pro, the coating doesn’t seem that thick. So I didn’t want to use scourers or Solvol etc.
I just spent time with the polish; twice.

Thanks! They’re awfully proud of that stuff but I’ve been looking for something to refresh the GL rims.

 

[Windmill John]

Not sure, but aren’t the GL wheels like the CM? I’m happy to use Solvol on that outer alloy silver ring, but the black stuff…
As I said, I’m no pro and if I had the money, I guess powder coating could be a good way to go. I’m just improving the bike. Haven’t started the bike yet, so maybe my priorities are wrong. I’m working from front to centre then back to centre, then…. It’s carb time and service time

 

[Maraakate]

maybe my priorities are wrong. I’m working from front to centre then back to centre, then…. It’s carb time and service time

Me personally I work on the mechanical stuff before cosmetics. The only time I start goofing with the cosmetics is if I am at a standstill waiting on parts. The bike does you no good if it looks great but doesn't run or run well.

In regard to the black on the comstar wheels I just use some foaming window cleaner to get the excess off and then use whatever metal polish is on sale and rub lightly. If you rub too hard with any of this stuff it can take that coating off.

 

[EzPete]

Not sure, but aren’t the GL wheels like the CM? I’m happy to use Solvol on that outer alloy silver ring, but the black stuff…
As I said, I’m no pro and if I had the money, I guess powder coating could be a good way to go. I’m just improving the bike. Haven’t started the bike yet, so maybe my priorities are wrong. I’m working from front to centre then back to centre, then…. It’s carb time and service time

They’re similar rims. Technically the front on mine is from a VFR.

 

[Windmill John]

Me personally I work on the mechanical stuff before cosmetics.

I think most people do… I know I’m weird!
I just have this routine in my head. Yes it’s cost me tyres, head bearings, fork seals etc.
Obviously re-chrome would be madness before sorting out the engine. I probably will never re-chrome.
I think if I did the engine and carbs first, I’d be too excited to ride it and not sort out the other bits quite as much.

 

[Maraakate]

You do the engine and carbs first, then be excited to ride it and you do the cosmetics in the off-season or when it's raining.

 

[Windmill John]

Yup, you’ve confirmed there’s something wrong with me. I’d rather be in the shed when it’s nice and bright with the door open.
Just fitted front tyre. No idea why I do my own, it knackers me!
Actually, that’s not true. I started fitting tyres when a local dealer twice…… did not seat my R65 tyres. Part of the tyre was still deeper in the rim. R65 rims have a rough cast, so one might argue it’s understandable… then don’t fit it!!!!!
I ended up improving the rims using wet and dry then Solvol to make future fitting easier. But after every time I fit a tyre, I say I’ll take it in
So looking forward to fitting the 16 inch rear

 

[Windmill John]

A default job done, as I do to most of my previous bikes.
Glue or bolt a piece of inner tube to the rear mudguards. This keep anything from the tyre directly off the swinging arm area.

 

[Windmill John]

Just drained the oil and got a little more than 3 litres. As far as I can read, an oil change should be about 2.5 litres. I’m not going to worry about just over half a litre too much, unless someone tells me different…

 

[Windmill John]

Also, part ‘C’ washer was missing.

 

[ancientdad]

More than half the time the washer is stuck to the filter and gets thrown away without ever being seen.

 

[Windmill John]

It did cross my mind and once the cat is off my lap, I’ll grab the bag out of the bin!

 

[Windmill John]

Cat saw your PM and got off!
Went to the wheelie bin and checked. washer not there, must have been a PO who binned it.

 

[Windmill John]

Don’t tell Maraakate, but I’ve done a few bits before the jobs I should be doing; namely, getting Indy running!
Really pleased to get the parking brake working. The adjuster was rusted solid in the swinging arm triangle mount.
Removed the ally triangle, left it hanging overnight whilst soaking the adjuster with WD40 and another penetrating fluid. Then judicious work with large amounts of heat, worked it back and forward eventually and then I had movement. Now all back together after cleaning and lubing.
This is also, if I recall, the first time I’ve used Rub n Buff on a Honda engine; used it many times on Airheads. Firstly using a scourer to remove furry oxidised metal, then some rubbing with Solvol, but then deciding to switch to Rub n Buff to finish off. Only done the outer left crankcase cover, a lot more to do but very pleased.
Shame you didn’t see the back end when I got the bike, but new tyre fitted, lot of cleaning of the wheel, some touching up of the swinging arm with paint… Hammerite… sorry!
Yes, I know possibly getting him running should have been started first, but I’ve enjoyed making him look a bit better and of course all the cleaning and lubing of fittings is important.
Carbs now off, so it’s time to delve into valve clearances, new seals at the top and a carb clean.

 

[CB450DX]

I though the automatic ones would have different gearing but damn, that sprocket has almost 10 fewer teeth than I'm used to.
Rear section busy with that tire almost filling the entire space, looking great.

Glue or bolt a piece of inner tube to the rear mudguards. This keep anything from the tyre directly off the swinging arm area.

So basically just extending the mudguard a little bit? Very common practice in trucks around here.

 

[Windmill John]

Glad it’s a 120 tyre rather than 130.
I discovered the new sprocket has one tooth more than standard; ooh the power increase
On some bikes, I’ve found my ‘mudguards extender’ pretty much essential to protect monoshocks for example.

 

[Windmill John]

Just cleaned up my carb tops. Not pristine, but infinitely better than the big lumps of white powdery alloy they were.
Had a thought why I do this first rather than getting the bike running. I feel an emotional attachment to my bikes and feel they will work better for me if I take care of their needs. crazy maybe, but it’s the way I think.