CL350 Vintage racer project

[ancientdad]

I've used NE brand gaskets, I still have remnants of a couple sets. Aside from OEM I prefer Vesrah, but the cover gaskets from NE are fine. Not sure I'd use their head gasket, but I can't anyway with my bore size. I will say that like most aftermarket sets, there are things in it that do not apply to the 350 or 450 engine like those valve stem seals. And a few things missing like the oil pump o-ring and the oil filter cover o-rings.

 

[ballbearian]

The paper oil pump gasket is usually missing. I've got a couple OEM ones for patterns and make my own. I could mail you a couple if you come up dry there.
I've had a couple NE sets that varied as well. Should have not used the cheaper one of the cam box gaskets on my latest K5 CL350 build.

BTW, you have a K5 motor, so it should already have the later, larger oil pump with the 19mm steel piston in an alloy body.

 

[Emlupi]

I haven't used that company's kits myself but it looks like the ones that David Silver Spares sells and they have a good rep for selling good quality IMO.

Yes, sir, I did notice that as well.

 

[Emlupi]

Made another step in disassembly last night. Removed the cam, sprocket, cam case, and cylinder head. Here’s a few photos of these items as they came out. To my eyes I don’t see any egregious signs of wear or damage. Cleanup and further inspection to follow.

 

[Emlupi]

Ok, so for the next steps I will be removing the cylinders and then the pistons. Outside of the FSM instructions, what am I looking out for? What tips do you have outside of the obvious?

 

[ancientdad]

Ok, so for the next steps I will be removing the cylinders and then the pistons. Outside of the FSM instructions, what am I looking out for? What tips do you have outside of the obvious?

I assume you're planning to go into the bottom end as well? If so, then little things like not letting the rubber cushions for the center cam chain roller fall into the bottom end as they so easily do won't be important. #10 here

 

[LongDistanceRider]

Keep taking photos as you take things apart, wear or questionable items you can post for evaluation. The photos will help putting it back together.

 

[Emlupi]

I assume you're planning to go into the bottom end as well? If so, then little things like not letting the rubber cushions for the center cam chain roller fall into the bottom end as they so easily do won't be important. #10 here

Yeah, I will be going through the whole thing step by step. I want to get in the bottom end and clear out all the gunk and sludge which I’m certain is hanging around in the sump. Plus I want to put my eyes on the whole engine to avoid any unpleasant surprises later.

 

[Emlupi]

Here’s a question for the veterans, what is the preferred method for preventing the crank from rolling while disassembling parts from the bottom end? I have seen people put a metal rod through the conrod small ends to block it but that always seemed a little sketchy to me.
In the race engine build video the gentleman was using a small piece of aluminum flat stock to wedge into the primary drive gears to do the job. What say ye?

 

[ancientdad]

Yeah, I will be going through the whole thing step by step. I want to get in the bottom end and clear out all the gunk and sludge which I’m certain is hanging around in the sump. Plus I want to put my eyes on the whole engine to avoid any unpleasant surprises later.

Yep, especially in your case it's the only way to go. There will likely be sludge in the bottom of the lower case, probably under the windage tray too.

 

[ancientdad]

Here’s a question for the veterans, what is the preferred method for preventing the crank from rolling while disassembling parts from the bottom end? I have seen people put a metal rod through the conrod small ends to block it but that always seemed a little sketchy to me.
In the race engine build video the gentleman was using a small piece of aluminum flat stock to wedge into the primary drive gears to do the job. What say ye?

If you mean to loosen the oil filter nut, many of us use a penny between the primary gears

 

[LongDistanceRider]

If you mean to loosen the oil filter nut, many of us use a penny between the primary gears

Soft metal, penny, aluminum, etc.

 

[Emlupi]

Pulled the cylinders off last night. Bores look pretty smooth but there is a vertical mark (arrow) and some scratches (circle) in one of the barrels. I did not see any broken rings.
The left piston looks pretty rough along the edge of the crown (arrow) and in general.
The right piston seems to be in better shape with a crisper edge along the crown.

These were coming out anyway but just by eyeball I would say +.010” rebore is in order for this bike. Opinions snd advice always welcome.
The cam slider looks in good shape but it is as hard as a hockey puck.
Might be able to get the pistons off tonight but probably won’t have time to get into the bottom end until the weekend. Work schedule is pretty tight for the next week or so. I will make progress as I can. I try to make a step or two daily just to keep it moving forward.

 

[ancientdad]

The cam chain guide should not have grooves worn in it, so you should replace it if you plan to use the OEM cam chain tensioner parts. What's more surprising to me is the decent condition of the tensioner rubber roller, they're typically grooved more and often have the look of about to fragment into chunks or worse. The KA slipper setup was popular though opinions are somewhat divided on it. @crazypj has experience with using them and the Tsubaki cam chain that apparently works best with them.

 

[Boomer343]

I would suggest going to a 1.00 mm oversize piston. Watch the ring end gaps carefully.

By the condition of the parts it suggests a low mileage engine that had a few oil changes in it's life.
From the scrape on the stator cover I would suggest checking the shifting forks carefully. Also the screw on the end of the shift drum on some K5 engines had issues with backing out. I just hit them with my 12Volt impact gun a few times.

I now replace parts 8 and 9 in the schematic above along with all the other parts. Check the top case where they sit and also where the front guide sits. Excess wear means issues.

The inner valve springs will be out of spec and probably 2 of the outer ones as well. Budget accordingly.

Take apart the chain tensioner unit and make sure it isn't sticking. I like to smooth out any ridges.

Check the arm that pushes the oil pump for wear, there should be very little especially for a race engine.

Oil to the cams is critical. The oil filter cover and transfer piece need to be smooth. I would not hesitate to do the modification that Crazy PJ came up with. I take it further with modifications to the filter cover as well. I have documented it here on VHT.

You will have to play with the head gasket ... haven't found an aftermarket one yet that was perfect fit. Or use a copper head gasket, many racers do as it has better heat transfer and is reusable.

 

[Emlupi]

The cam chain guide should not have grooves worn in it, so you should replace it if you plan to use the OEM cam chain tensioner parts. What's more surprising to me is the decent condition of the tensioner rubber roller, they're typically grooved more and often have the look of about to fragment into chunks or worse. The KA slipper setup was popular though opinions are somewhat divided on it. @crazypj has experience with using them and the Tsubaki cam chain that apparently works best with them.

I plan on going to the KA slipper tensioner as it is allowed by rules. The Tsubaki cam chain seems to be not available any longer. I can’t find one anywhere.

 

[Emlupi]

I would suggest going to a 1.00 mm oversize piston. Watch the ring end gaps carefully.

By the condition of the parts it suggests a low mileage engine that had a few oil changes in it's life.
From the scrape on the stator cover I would suggest checking the shifting forks carefully. Also the screw on the end of the shift drum on some K5 engines had issues with backing out. I just hit them with my 12Volt impact gun a few times.

I now replace parts 8 and 9 in the schematic above along with all the other parts. Check the top case where they sit and also where the front guide sits. Excess wear means issues.

The inner valve springs will be out of spec and probably 2 of the outer ones as well. Budget accordingly.

Take apart the chain tensioner unit and make sure it isn't sticking. I like to smooth out any ridges.

Check the arm that pushes the oil pump for wear, there should be very little especially for a race engine.

Oil to the cams is critical. The oil filter cover and transfer piece need to be smooth. I would not hesitate to do the modification that Crazy PJ came up with. I take it further with modifications to the filter cover as well. I have documented it here on VHT.

You will have to play with the head gasket ... haven't found an aftermarket one yet that was perfect fit. Or use a copper head gasket, many racers do as it has better heat transfer and is reusable.

I’m not sure if the oil modifications are legal under the class rules for these bikes. I’m trying to contact someone from the USCRA to get information but, so far, nobody is responding to any emails. Very strange.

 

[ancientdad]

I’m not sure if the oil modifications are legal under the class rules for these bikes. I’m trying to contact someone from the USCRA to get information but, so far, nobody is responding to any emails. Very strange.

Honestly, even if they pulled the oil filter cover to check you after a race - and it's highly unlikely because it has only to do with better oiling and therefore more engine longevity - they would probably never recognize it had been modified unless they knew exactly what they were looking at.

 

[ancientdad]

This is mine after a mild increase in the valve passage.






If I'd done a more uniform job of opening up the valve and it was perfectly curved, it would look like it was supposed to be that way. But I can't imagine anyone ever thinking to inspect that part in a post-race examination.

 

[EzPete]

Looks like this pretty broad statement here in the rules would cover the oil mod:

5.6.5 Rules applicable to all Period II classes (unless explicitly noted):
1. Engine: Internal updating permissible; external appearance must remain same.

 

[Emlupi]

5.6.4 Formula CB350
A spec class for near stock Honda CB350s and CB360 Twins.
With the creation of this class, Honda CB350’s will no longer be eligible for Period 1-350GP, but are eligible in Formula CB and Lightweight Supervintage. All Formula CB races will be run with 350GP. Any modifications other than those listed below are not permitted. Output shaft seal retainer mandatory.

I believe those are general rules for bikes that run in those period classes. This rule is particular to the Formula CB350 class and states that any mods not listed are prohibited. Like I said, I’m trying to get clarification but nobody responds to my messages.

 

[ancientdad]

What's that old expression, "if you're not cheating you're not trying"?

Seriously, I couldn't imagine any sanctioning body asking everyone to tear down their engines after a competitive race. But I hear you on following the rules, though to me it would behoove them to appreciate a mod that would result in more reliability and less engine seizures on the track during a long race. If they could even find it during a teardown.

Would be nice if they answered you though.

 

[Emlupi]

No, probably not. I do know this much about competition, though. I was heavily involved in competition rifle shooting for many years. Nobody really paid any attention to what you were doing until you started having some success. Then all eyes were on everything you did. One year at the national championship, on the final day, I was squadded with the reigning champion. He was on his way to winning again with a small margin over the rest of the field. In the middle of the day’s match stages, just before he went to the line to prepare for his stage, the referees came over to investigate a challenge to his equipment from another competitor. Of course he was in compliance and it didn’t stop him from winning again, but gamesmanship is always part of the game.
The odds are that nobody will probably ever care what the heck I’m doing, but why take a chance?

 

[ancientdad]

The odds are that nobody will probably ever care what the heck I’m doing, but why take a chance?

Fair enough. Mostly thinking of preserving the life of your engine to avoid throwing unnecessary dollars at it, that's all.

 

[Emlupi]

Honestly, I feel the same way and will probably just do it, anyway. I have a vested interest in the longevity of my engine .
It’s not a stretch to understand that the spirit of the rule is to prevent riders from building a sleeper engine and running it in the production classes to gain unfair advantage.

 

[ancientdad]

Honestly, I feel the same way and will probably just do it, anyway. I have a vested interest in the longevity of my engine .
It’s not a stretch to understand that the spirit of the rule is to prevent riders from building a sleeper engine and running it in the production classes to gain unfair advantage.

Absolutely, and it's not like we're suggesting anyone go 3mm over on bore size or (even though you probably could) go with a mild MegaCycle camshaft to *ahem* enhance your chances of a podium finish... but to help save some engine parts from early demise through a little enhancement of oil flow just makes sense. Now if you showed up with Cappellini external oil lines I'd suspect they'd be looking at it.

 

[EzPete]

Honestly, I feel the same way and will probably just do it, anyway. I have a vested interest in the longevity of my engine .
It’s not a stretch to understand that the spirit of the rule is to prevent riders from building a sleeper engine and running it in the production classes to gain unfair advantage.

If you back up inspection 5 it shows that 350 class as P1/2 so both sets of rules apply. The part I cited was in the P2 rules.

 

[Emlupi]

If you back up inspection 5 it shows that 350 class as P1/2 so both sets of rules apply. The part I cited was in the P2 rules.

Yes, sir, I understand what you are referring to. If you look closely you will see that the general rules apply “unless explicitly noted”.
There is a note in the Formula CB350 class rules that clearly states only the modifications listed are allowed.
There are other 350cc classes which would fall under the general P2 rules. Formula CB350 is a specific class with its own rules for machine modifications.

 

[Emlupi]

More stuff removed.
Engine hardware soaking in PB Blaster awaiting further disassembly.

 

[EzPete]

Yes, sir, I understand what you are referring to. If you look closely you will see that the general rules apply “unless explicitly noted”.View attachment 36784
There is a note in the Formula CB350 class rules that clearly states only the modifications listed are allowed.View attachment 36785
There are other 350cc classes which would fall under the general P2 rules. Formula CB350 is a specific class with its own rules for machine modifications.

Yeah. And 5.6.5 is right below that (well, except for the funky layout of the rulebook)

I’ve done a bit of amateur and vintage series drag and track stuff in the auto world and almost universally modifications that protected the engine/added safety or reliability were acceptable and borderline encouraged.

When you get into adding HP, that’s when they get persnickety.

 

[ancientdad]

More stuff removed.
Engine hardware soaking in PB Blaster awaiting further disassembly.

Just FYI, when it's time to remove the lower case you'll want to lay it down on the cylinder studs (you won't damage them, they're really tough) or use an old milk crate to slip the cylinder studs down through so the bottom end is more leveled. Since the transmission shafts just lay in the upper case bearing cut-outs once the lower case is removed, they'll fall out easily with the bottom end more vertically-oriented as in the second pic.

 

[Emlupi]

Another option for cam chain tensioner is the factory unit with Capellini Moto rollers and a flat link chain. This way there’s no need to monkey around with removing material from the cam tunnel in the cylinder to make room for the slipper to fit. Retains the stock configuration with better reliability.

 

[ancientdad]

Yes, though the Cappellini stuff is expensive it has been validated in many years of racing use, at least all the DOHC 450 stuff anyway and there's no reason to believe their 350 parts are any less reliable. The other thing about the KA slipper, aside from accelerated wear noticed by someone after a season of racing, is the lack of availability of the preferred Tsubaki cam chain with similar flat side plate links.

 

[1969 CL350]

Here’s a good example of some of the CM pricing difference. For the same part, CM charges $65 + shipping, Sparck Moto charged me $37.50 with free shipping. BTW, mine came with the loose extra plug and wire ends, too.

 

[Emlupi]

Yes, though the Cappellini stuff is expensive it has been validated in many years of racing use, at least all the DOHC 450 stuff anyway and there's no reason to believe their 350 parts are any less reliable. The other thing about the KA slipper, aside from accelerated wear noticed by someone after a season of racing, is the lack of availability of the preferred Tsubaki cam chain with similar flat side plate links.

Sounds good. I don’t mind spending the money so much if I’m getting value for it. If quality parts prevent reliability issues and perform better then I’m on board. “Buy once, cry once.”

 

[Emlupi]

Here’s a good example of some of the CM pricing difference. For the same part, CM charges $65 + shipping, Sparck Moto charged me $37.50 with free shipping.

View attachment 36796

View attachment 36797

So I’m learning. I think they are charging $17-18 bucks for the oil filter wrench I got from Amazon for $12. I understand that companies have to factor in the “price of doing business” but that can be taken to extreme.

 

[1969 CL350]

So I’m learning. I think they are charging $17-18 bucks for the oil filter wrench I got from Amazon for $12. I understand that companies have to factor in the “price of doing business” but that can be taken to extreme.

Yes, some markup is the way business is conducted, and a lot of times it’s a large percentage over wholesale cost. However, if Sparck Moto can make a decent profit selling it for almost HALF the price CM charges, then let the buyer beware. Those CM videos on YouTube suck a lot of buyers in, and they don’t bother to shop around.

 

[Emlupi]

I have another question regarding slotting a cam sprocket to adjust valve timing. It seems to me that with the force being applied to the cam sprocket under load in a running engine that force would cause the cam sprocket to slip a little in that slot. I know that you would Locktite the sprocket bolts during installation but would that be sufficient to prevent any movement of the sprocket along the slot? Just curious.

 

[ancientdad]

So I’m learning. I think they are charging $17-18 bucks for the oil filter wrench I got from Amazon for $12. I understand that companies have to factor in the “price of doing business” but that can be taken to extreme.

Yep, I've been saying it for years, their Pied Piper following from the quick and dirty videos they make has created a mentality of "one stop shopping" for their followers and they're clearly taking advantage of it. Another simple example is their "starter delete plug" selling for $20 when it's simply an automotive freeze plug that can be had anywhere for about $7.

 

[ancientdad]

I have another question regarding slotting a cam sprocket to adjust valve timing. It seems to me that with the force being applied to the cam sprocket under load in a running engine that force would cause the cam sprocket to slip a little in that slot. I know that you would Locktite the sprocket bolts during installation but would that be sufficient to prevent any movement of the sprocket along the slot? Just curious.

I've never built a high performance 350 engine but adjustable cam sprockets are available. Here are a couple, first one from Todd Henning Racing who is well-known for CB350 performance

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265832336200?chn=ps

and this one as well

DYNOMAN PERFORMANCE - Motorcycle Performance Parts

The finest in motorcycle performance products for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha

dynoman.net

 

[crazypj]

Any modifications other than those listed below are not permitted. Output shaft seal retainer mandatory.
1. Approved models: Honda CB/SL350, CL350/360, CB/CD/CJ360
2. Engines: Stock, the following modification are permitted:
a. May replace the stock cam tensioner with a slipper style cam chain tensioner.
b. May use aftermarket replacement pistons, teflon ‘buttons’ and valves of OEM size and materials. Valve guides of any material permitted. Changes to OEM valve configuration (i.e. multi-angle valve grinding) prohibited.
3. Carburetion: Stock or aftermarket Mikuni VM type, maximum 26mm allowed, air boxes may be removed or modified. Carburetor jets may be changed. Choke plates may be removed. Carburetors from any approved model are permitted.
4. Exhaust: System may be changed.
5. Gearing: External gearing changes permitted.

These are the engine mods allowed in the rulebook. As you can see, very limited. Are people doing more than this?…….well, who really knows. I’m not looking to build a sleeper or a cheater. Like I said earlier, just want to put it together correctly and have a solid, reliable engine.
I will have to contact the director and ask about oil mods. By the letter of the rules, it’s not on the list so is not permitted.

I skimmed through entire thread a bit quick
Very interesting, I was going to build a 360 racer around 20 years ago but there wasn't any class it would have been eligible in (at least, not without 1000+ mile road trips)
BTW, in your second post, picture shows valves were not set properly as there should never be any 'polishing' or wear on base circle of cam lobe, they were running too tight but not for long enough or tight enough to cause damage..
Stock Honda valve SEAT is three angle, (60, 45, 30) the valves are ground at 45 degree only so you can't back cut valves at 30 degree to increase flow.
The oil transfer piece is an update not an upgrade.
Honda knew it was a problem and made different size oil transfer piece on later models, (read through replies on oil transfer piece mod) I just took it to a level that wasn't possible on a production motor, plus, it's out there available to everyone so could never be considered any form of cheating (just an increase in reliability helping to keep costs down)
It doesn't have any performance advantage only safety advantage of top end being less likely to seize and throw you down the track
Anyone with a Dremel or Dremel clone can do it in less than an hour (on a 350, 360 needs bit more time/work to get at it)
CB360 was renowned for seizing cam bearings, even more than 350, uprated oil pump made things much much worse

Interesting that the rules mention material of the valves. Schumann made stock size titanium valves for my 450 head. Also interesting that they limit you to 26mm carbs when the stock Keihin carbs for the 350 are 28mm.

Titanium valves are damn pricey plus require special valve guides so they don't seize
Carb sizing is probably because the CL slide carbs are 26mm?
That would make it a 'direct replacement' (kinda).

Yeah, the wording is kinda funky, I believe the 26mm restriction is for the Mikuni VM’s. If you have stock carbs you can run them as is.
I’m also intending to at least upgrade to 360 forks so I can run emulators in them. The rules allow 35mm so I could do a swap with a set of CB500 forks but that would gets into geometry changes, possibly spacers to get the hubs to fit correctly, etc. Not sure if I want to dive in that deep but I will definitely consider it.

360 forks are EXACTLY THE SAME as 350 late model with disc brake.
Geometry changes with longer forks increases trail so bike will be more stable but not make tight corners so easily (just have to lean a bit further)
FIA regulations say minimum clearance is 50 degree bank angle, (in 2002)
It may have changed since tyre technology has advanced and 65+ degree bank angles are now quite common in GP racing (even in 2010, Suzuki were having problems with engine cutting out when leaned over to 'only' 60 degrees, Honda had thick silicon damper oil in their lean angle sensor, only shut off engine in longer corners)

I have another question regarding slotting a cam sprocket to adjust valve timing. It seems to me that with the force being applied to the cam sprocket under load in a running engine that force would cause the cam sprocket to slip a little in that slot. I know that you would Locktite the sprocket bolts during installation but would that be sufficient to prevent any movement of the sprocket along the slot? Just curious.

It's used to be pretty common to slot cam sprocket and not worry about it but personally I feel the same as you so make a 'crescent moon' spacer to fit in the gap and prevent any chance of movement.
Flat side plate cam chains are much more easily found by looking for CB750 'race cam chain' (it's same length/pitches as 350, 94 link)

 

[crazypj]

Oh, just remembered, I originally posted the oil transfer piece mod in some thread on original Honda Twins or maybe Do The Ton around 2009 or 2010 so it isn't actually anything new.
The only difference now, on here, is pictures and discussion

 

[Emlupi]

I skimmed through entire thread a bit quick
Very interesting, I was going to build a 360 racer around 20 years ago but there wasn't any class it would have been eligible in (at least, not without 1000+ mile road trips)
BTW, in your second post, picture shows valves were not set properly as there should never be any 'polishing' or wear on base circle of cam lobe, they were running too tight but not for long enough or tight enough to cause damage..
Stock Honda valve SEAT is three angle, (60, 45, 30) the valves are ground at 45 degree only so you can't back cut valves at 30 degree to increase flow.
The oil transfer piece is an update not an upgrade.
Honda knew it was a problem and made different size oil transfer piece on later models, (read through replies on oil transfer piece mod) I just took it to a level that wasn't possible on a production motor, plus, it's out there available to everyone so could never be considered any form of cheating (just an increase in reliability helping to keep costs down)
It doesn't have any performance advantage only safety advantage of top end being less likely to seize and throw you down the track
Anyone with a Dremel or Dremel clone can do it in less than an hour (on a 350, 360 needs bit more time/work to get at it)
CB360 was renowned for seizing cam bearings, even more than 350, uprated oil pump made things much much worse

Titanium valves are damn pricey plus require special valve guides so they don't seize
Carb sizing is probably because the CL slide carbs are 26mm?
That would make it a 'direct replacement' (kinda).

360 forks are EXACTLY THE SAME as 350 late model with disc brake.
Geometry changes with longer forks increases trail so bike will be more stable but not make tight corners so easily (just have to lean a bit further)
FIA regulations say minimum clearance is 50 degree bank angle, (in 2002)
It may have changed since tyre technology has advanced and 65+ degree bank angles are now quite common in GP racing (even in 2010, Suzuki were having problems with engine cutting out when leaned over to 'only' 60 degrees, Honda had thick silicon damper oil in their lean angle sensor, only shut off engine in longer corners)

It's used to be pretty common to slot cam sprocket and not worry about it but personally I feel the same as you so make a 'crescent moon' spacer to fit in the gap and prevent any chance of movement.
Flat side plate cam chains are much more easily found by looking for CB750 'race cam chain' (it's same length/pitches as 350, 94 link)

Thanks for all that, very informative. I will definitely be having a look at your oil mods as I go along.
The rules allow up to 35mm fork diameter. What would be the easiest complete front end swap for this bike. I have read that the CB450 triples will swap right onto the 350. In a race bike article it was mentioned that ‘77-‘78 750F triples and forks will also work. Looking for something straightforward without having to fabricate lots of spacers and so on to make it work. I’m certainly open to any suggestions.

 

[Emlupi]

I removed the rest of the components from the left and right engine covers. Next will be splitting the cases.
The oil filter and oil pump screen and sump look pretty clean. I didn’t find any evidence of metal particles or excessive amounts of sludge in there. Hopefully it will be the same case when I look in the bottom of the crankcase.

Here’s a couple of photos of the clutch plates. The friction plates look like they’re fairly new, not a lot of wear on them from what I can see.

 

[ancientdad]

Looks pretty typical for one that had fairly regular maintenance. Measure the clutch plates and springs against the spec in the FSM, the springs might need to be replaced but the plates are usually good unless burned or excessively worn. Also, check the "fingers" on the clutch basket for worn spots where the tabs of the friction plates ride, if there are any ridges worn into the basket you can file them smooth to make clutch operation smoother.

 

[Emlupi]

I intend to install Barnett clutch springs and plates but if these are serviceable I will keep them in reserve just in case they’re needed.

 

[EzPete]

I’d probably go ahead and do the springs now, save the current as backup and ride the old clutch til it’s shredded. You’re going to want the stiffer springs for a race application.

 

[ancientdad]

I intend to install Barnett clutch springs and plates but if these are serviceable I will keep them in reserve just in case they’re needed.

I know it won't matter much on a race bike, but Barnett plates are usually grabby during slipping/engagement. I bought one set in my life and realized they weren't necessary, stock plates hold up to hole shots and drag racing in general (doing power-shifts back before anyone thought about ignition interrupts) and better springs is typically all you need. In fact, I added one spark plug washer (over the spring post) to each of the 4 clutch springs on my red 450 during the build and later removed them because the clutch was stiffer than I preferred for a street bike and they weren't necessary.

 

[Emlupi]

I must also add that being part of this forum is paying dividends already. The tip about using the rear axle bolt to remove the gen rotor was priceless. I saw a video with a guy screwing around with a bearing puller. I used the axle bolt and had it off in about 25 seconds. Love it.

 

[ancientdad]

I must also add that being part of this forum is paying dividends already. The tip about using the rear axle bolt to remove the gen rotor was priceless. I saw a video with a guy screwing around with a bearing puller. I used the axle bolt and had it off in about 25 seconds. Love it.

Yep, that's the level of years of experience here, little tips like that really are priceless.