Referring to the fiche linked by @ancientdad, the power jets are both labeled 38, but the range of jet sizes listed under 38 ranges from 150 to 170. I would not assume that they should be identical just based on the fiche.
Correct you are. I don't see "STD" listed on any of those jets.
I have fully rebuilt and restored two of these bikes (mine) was the 1968 CL175KO and neither had the "power jets" so you may have either a later production model, or someone switched out the carbs. The PW22 model is stamped on the body as shown below. Determine which carb model you have and what is stamped on your carb bodies would be a help. This is the carb number listed as correct for the CL175K0 in the FSM specs section. Model PW20’s are for a 160 twin motor BTW and look like the PW22’s.
Note the middle section of that part number, it has been superceded over the years to a part almost the same but not quite, likely because the overall dimensions of that new part number fit lots of other things now and aside from the lack of taper, is the same size otherwise. No part originally made for bikes the ages of ours had an alpha-charactered middle number, all the part numbers were full numeric when our bikes were built so that "crossover" is for a later bike.
The CMSNL site seems to be the place to go if trying to see the parts fiche, but unhelpfully they sometimes list two parts with the same part number, or five, or twenty, depending on how common such a part is across the model lineup. For this particular gasket, #5 on the fiche, there are five separate offerings, all with different parts numbers and prices, but photos of the part just show an o-ring. All of them are $7.65 except one of them which is $38.86.
Once the o-ring is of the right mushy consistency, I would insert it in the petcock and snug the bowl up to it so that you can shape it while the alcohol evaporates. Might take several days or a week to evaporate but hopefully it retains the triangular shape.
Yeah I don't have those
Interesting. I guess it makes sense to use the same battery tray on both frames.
Good idea...the head HAS been sitting on a shelf for many years
Yeah, it's unfortunate that many of the more desirable models from the '60s suffer the poor translations, typos and omissions in the documentation department, the CA/CB/CL72/77 models do as well. With no worldwide network the lack of interconnected information then didn't help either, had to rely on printed copies shipped to dealerships.
I've decided to save money I'm simply going to remove one circlip, remove the pinion gear and "reclock" it 180 degrees, also turn it around so the broken teeth stay out of the fray
Most people here can think of something similar that they should have caught earlier and lost time fixing later.
That C bushing is the Achillies heel of the 305s.
The SL175 has a ratchet type kick start mechanism, the ONLY difference between the SL and the CB/CL 175 engines ( and possibly some of the internal gear ratios, certainly not the camshaft as some sources mention ). I wondered if the SL mechanism was more robust than the CB/CL setup, which does look like a disaster waiting to happen. The longer SL lever is just set to high for a short arse like me, mechanism seems to work OK with a CB lever, so not sure why Honda did that.
Thanks very much for that, greatly appreciated, fortunately I belong to cabal of unrepentant vintage Honda twin hoarders so I'm set for now
I used a correct cylindrical end fitting from Flanders. I have an assortment of all manner of cable hardware, and of course one can always order a handful more as needed
Yes, I remember doing that, here are pics of the two halves. The rearmost corner studs have dowels and o-rings while the front corner studs have identical dowels and NO o-rings, is that correct?
