CL 175 K0 Restore. The addiction is real

Troy said:
Hot air.

I'm working on my sloper as well and have several totes of spares. Let me know if I can help with anything.
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I don't mean to butt in here, I'm currently working on a 1968 CL175 K0 as well, wondering if you might have in your spares box, the left and right rear signal light mounts and a gearshift lever that you might be willing to sell. Also do you know if anyone reproduces the speedo rubber gasket.
 
Gears back in place but not sure they’re right. Neutral looks okay but 2nd 3rd n 4th are off to the side half a gear. I reinstalled the way they came off, but somebody has been in there before me, judging by the amount of Hondabond I cleaned off. FSM picture isn’t much help. I’m thinking I have forks flipped wrong way out?

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2nd gear

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3rd gear
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Spent the afternoon trying to make sure I have the transmission installed correctly It doesn’t help that the parts manual and the FSM show two different pics of how they go together. I oriented the forks the only way it seemed to make sense to me, holding the fork in place and rolling the drum to make sure there wouldn’t be any interference of any kind. With the forks on tthe drum and gears in place, I can roll the drum and shift thru the gears. I’m going to assume my concern about the gear alignment is unfounded……..there’s no binding, grinding, or popping.
 
stl360+450 said:
What is the status of the other motor? Any chance you can compare them to confirm things are as they should be?
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In pieces. I had to marry the two because the kick start locating pin was broken off and the hole where it lived was egg shaped (See post 47) I took pictures, but evidently not enough of them. I failed to take pics of how the shift forks were oriented on the shift drum. My bad…….and I’m paying for it. 🙁
 
There is a link to a video of an engine build in this post. The video wasn't being shared because of its quality, but it might still help you in this situation.

Richard's SL175 look alike thread is here. Not sure if it includes the engine rebuild.
 
Found exactly what I needed form @Flyin900’s build. Mine is correct. A little ashamed I didn’t think to do that sooner. Thanks Brody. On the plus side, I did figure it out and it was right😳


stl360+450 said:
There is a link to a video of an engine build in this post. The video wasn't being shared because of its quality, but it might still help you in this situation.

Richard's SL175 look alike thread is here. Not sure if it includes the engine rebuild.
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You have it back together so this is really just a how the forks were prior to disassembly in my CL175K0. The assembled and cleaned transmission is more a reference point picture. I did need to replace my middle shift fork and one was put in backwards and the transmission shafts either one or both would not align correctly into the shift forks.
I suspect since your transmission shafts assembled into the case and shift forks and now shifts well your good to go!

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Been a busy spring so not much progress. Luckily it rained today so I could hang out in the garage….not the yard.
Cases back together. Everything seems to be working and shifting. Replace gears as Jensen suggested. Also gave the others a much closer inspection. Didn’t get a whole lot done, but I’ll take what I can get this time of year.

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Not happy with how the new clutch rod seal went in…….I’ll add another one in with my next parts order🫤

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Noticed in the picture, it looks like I used plenty of Hondabond……but I swear I applied it sparingly. I used a small narrow paint brush and barely covered the surfaces. Or at least I thought so.
 
Good to see you back in the garage, Darryl.

I seem to always find runs inside the cases from the factory, so I don't think you're using too much Hondabond.

What did you use around the clutch rod seal? I see grease inside, but it looks like black rtv dribbling out the bottom edge. I've typically used Hondabond on any seals that fit between the cases when I put the two halves together.
 
Grumpybugger said:
Not happy with how the new clutch rod seal went in…….I’ll add another one in with my next parts order🫤
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I don't want to seem critical, or open a can of worms here, but it looks like you waited to put the clutch rod seal in until after the lower case was on. It appears the crankcase edge carved off some of the plastic around the outer part of the seal, and personally I wouldn't trust it like that.

During a bottom end overhaul, it's best to put all seals in place prior to mating the crankcase halves so Hondabond can be put around them without the disturbance of pressing them into place afterward.
 
ancientdad said:
I don't want to seem critical, or open a can of worms here, but it looks like you waited to put the clutch rod seal in until after the lower case was on. It appears the crankcase edge carved off some of the plastic around the outer part of the seal, and personally I wouldn't trust it like that.

During a bottom end overhaul, it's best to put all seals in place prior to mating the crankcase halves so Hondabond can be put around them without the disturbance of pressing them into place afterward.
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Exactly what I did AD. My thinking was the seals would move, or worse yet, interfere with fitting the cases together. I didnt want to have to pull cases apart and need to completely clean the Hondabond off and start over. My bad Lesson learned. I also thought that you wouldn’t split the cases just to replace a seal…. Is that the can of worms you’re talking about? 😏. I don’t want to start an oil thread here.

Sitting here mulling things over…….would you recommend I pop the cases apart and have another go?
 
That seal will go in with the cases together. I would pull it out and order a new seal and clean up the seal case seat area well. I use Permatex case/gasket sealant myself, yet any brand of proper case sealant is excellent. A thin smear around the inside of the aluminum upper and lower cases first as insurance in my books. Make sure that your pushing it in completely flush to the case. It should go in there without much fuss.
 
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