Changing stock handlebars to CB 550F handlebars, need some advice

TomatoThePotato

TomatoThePotato

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Hey everyone, I'm finally starting to do some cosmetic work on my 1984 Honda CM450E.

Looking to swap out the OEM handlebars with something that looks and feels better than my stock ones. I was reading what some people have done to their bikes and came across this user. I really like the look of the 550f handlebars so I decided that I am going to buy these. I have a few questions though. The user did state that the cables were a bit too long and needed rerouting. I was assuming this was a cable issue, but regardless I was planning on replacing my cables anyways. I wanted to ask, it looks like from the pictures that the CM450 cables, are exactly like the CB550F cables. Now, this might be a stretch but will I still have rerouting problems if I go with these cables? The CM450e cables are very long and I thought the 550f cables would be shorter and suit my bike more? The reason why I am unsure is because these two bikes are almost 10 years apart and Honda may have changed something with the cables during this time. What do you guys think?

Also side note, anything I should look out for while replacing handlebars? Does the casing for the electronic and all the switches become brittle over time to the point I should be careful when removing them? Anything else to be careful of?

Thanks
 
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I would just change the bars and then see if new cables are really needed. My 80 Suzi GS750L had pretty high buckhorns that I changed bars to a more normal height (Daytona style?) and was surprised that just rerouting worked very well.
 
ballbearian said:
...just rerouting worked very well.
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This. I've done many handlebar changes over the years on different bikes, including on my current 450, and many times all you have to do is creatively re-route the cables and brake hose to take up some excess.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
For straighter bars like this use the CB400T cables, those models came with the lower straighter bars originally.
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The CM450 original cables on 4into1 are also the CB400T cables, should I just get the stock cables instead? I worry they'll still be too long and require some rerouting.
 
ballbearian said:
I would just change the bars and then see if new cables are really needed. My 80 Suzi GS750L had pretty high buckhorns that I changed bars to a more normal height (Daytona style?) and was surprised that just rerouting worked very well.
Click to expand...
I was planning on replacing my current cables anyways as they seem pretty worn and my throttle tends to get stuck around 10% throttle when I release it, and have to manually force the throttle off by twisting it. Don't know if this is a cable issue, however hoping replacing the cables solves it. Feels very mushy and doesn't 'snap' back after I release. Since I was going to buy other cables anyway, I was thinking that might as well buy shorter cables to save me the hassle of having to work with longer cables.

ancientdad said:
This. I've done many handlebar changes over the years on different bikes, including on my current 450, and many times all you have to do is creatively re-route the cables and brake hose to take up some excess.
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Worst case scenario, I'll buy replacements specific for my CM450, however I would like to be able to buy shorter ones if I could.
 
TomatoThePotato said:
Worst case scenario, I'll buy replacements specific for my CM450, however I would like to be able to buy shorter ones if I could.
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Have you measured the difference in height and pull-back to try to estimate how much shorter you think they'd need to be? Aftermarket cable listings often show the length of the ones they sell, that might help you decide.
 
ancientdad said:
Have you measured the difference in height and pull-back to try to estimate how much shorter you think they'd need to be? Aftermarket cable listings often show the length of the ones they sell, that might help you decide.
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I haven't got an accurate measurement using string just yet, but I believe with shorter handlebars, I would need around 10'' less than what I currently have. I am considering buying the 550f cables as long as all the ends of the cables of both bikes match and I won't have any issue attaching it to the throttle sleeve or carb.
 
TomatoThePotato said:
I am considering buying the 550f cables as long as all the ends of the cables of both bikes match and I won't have any issue attaching it to the throttle sleeve or carb.
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That would be a question for LDR since he knows very well what the cable ends are like and can compare the 550 cables to them, but there could still be an issue of inner cable length difference based on the differences between clutch actuation methods, though I'd believe the throttle cables would probably be very similar if not the same.
 
Still not fully sure about the cb550f cables, contemplating on just buying new cm450 cables but I would really like to have less cable length for a cleaner look.
 
I'm not going to say anything beyond this, but take a look at the stock cables on my 450 with the CB400F bars with 1.75" rise. (Ignore the throttle cable, it's shorter than I'd like and I can't route it the way I want to because a gray cable of that type is not easily found)

1710791216886.png
 
ancientdad said:
I'm not going to say anything beyond this, but take a look at the stock cables on my 450 with the CB400F bars with 1.75" rise. (Ignore the throttle cable, it's shorter than I'd like and I can't route it the way I want to because a gray cable of that type is not easily found)

View attachment 30824
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Hmm doesn’t look too bad, may buy stock CM450E cables instead. Thank you.
 
Hey yall, so I’m making this into my handlebar thread. I actually decided to go for the cb400F handle bars as I liked the lower handlebar look of them. But I didn’t realize that they were going to be extremely short. I don’t have a problem wiring the carb cables, however, I was having trouble dealing with the electronic cables on the left side of the handlebar (the high/low beams). The cable is still too long and prevents me from placing the plastic casing closer to the center of the bike (no room to put on grips). I am trying to see what I could do to solve this. From what it looks like, I may be able to push them into the front headlamp but wanted to know if there is any other approach.
 
I would leave it as is for now until you've ridden the bike for a few hundred miles to be sure you like the bars and want to keep them. Then shorten the wiring however much is needed. Vintage Connections had the spade terminals you'll need
 
LongDistanceRider said:
I would leave it as is for now until you've ridden the bike for a few hundred miles to be sure you like the bars and want to keep them. Then shorten the wiring however much is needed. Vintage Connections had the spade terminals you'll need
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The issue was that I couldnt securely place the plastic casing onto the new bars because the cables would not move. I would bring the plastic casing closer, and everytime I would let go of it, the cables just pushed it away. Was a bit hesitant on pulling the cable down towards the steering stem just in case it had torn. I didn't disconnect the cables from the casing because I thought there wasn't any need to do so if I just put them on the new bars. Looking at your bars, they seem to be the same length as mine so I have confidence that I can make this work.
1712549327406.png1712549419675.png
 
Use zip ties to hold the wiring to the bars, stuff the excess down behind the headlight that doesn't fit inside and use zip ties again. You've got probably 6+ inches of excess to tuck away and it's not going to be pretty until the excess is removed. But that will get you rideable so you can make sure these are the bars you want and will work for you.
 
LDR, thanks again!! maybe once I am done my bike, I can get you to sign the side cover since I am gathering all the signatures of all the people who have helped me restore this bike.
 
Update:

Manage to fit the CB400F handlebars on. All instruments are now secured to the handlebar, however I am definitely going to replace the screws that hold them together as they aren’t in great condition (one of them was stripped prior to me working on it, i think I’ll just replace that one). All cables work and the throttle snaps back instead of getting stuck. So I had also bought CB550F push/pull cables and they had worked perfectly. Some slack but definitely doesn’t look as messy as I imagined it.

Now here’s the problem I’m having. My clutch and my front brake levers are EXTREMELY hard to use and you need to have a crazy clamping force to pull them in. i do not know why this is the case but I am assuming it has to do something with the fact that the cables are too long? Not sure, but they are very tense now. They were not like this before the handlebar change.

Some pics:
60A81A5D-A0B1-4616-B4E1-70CD1307790F.jpegC3EB00C8-4DA3-47D3-9A5C-048FBDE15CAD.jpeg

Apologies for the messy workstation lol, we cleaned up right after.
 
You’ve got somewhere in the cable routing with a bend too tight, and you’ll want to check the adjuster knobs on the levers to make sure the little slots
A. Aren’t aligned - these need to be offset.

B. The “inner” slot (on the adjustment screw/knob) is pointed toward the inside of any immediate bend the cable makes as it exits the housing. On your clutch lever, it looks like the slot is pointed to the ceiling and that’s opening up the cylinder to the continued bend of the cable, so you’re dragging your cable across that. Try spinning that 180 degrees and see if it gets looser.
 
Too tight of bends, especially when it comes right out of the lever, is no good. Jim's right, FSM speaks wisdom.
 
Nobody's mentioned this so far, but have you lubed the cables? Motion Pro sells a kit with a piece that clamps on to the cable end with a hole that you shoot the lube into, so it shoots down the cable. Routing is also likely the issue, but lubing is always good.
 
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