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CB450K1-5 and others... mixed collections
- Thread starter TeaLow
- Start date
But it doesn't sound any louder than my bike....I didn't hear much more, too loud for my neighbourhood for today...
What would you suggest to do with the air filters?
I think the age of these parts are the reason for that the engine only starts without choke (even if it is 9°C!)
Can I clean them? If I replace the paper with foam, how to glue it?
Or any other suggestions?
Pods are not my favourite.
Before I do the next start of the engine, I'll create a basic wire harness for ignition and the starter.
I am very carefully with the kick start because I didn't install the foot pegs yet, so I don't have a "stop" for its movement and I don't know if I damage anything inside while turning too far.
So I have a bit time to have an eye on the filters.
Thnaks a lot in advance!
Thilo
I think the age of these parts are the reason for that the engine only starts without choke (even if it is 9°C!)
Can I clean them? If I replace the paper with foam, how to glue it?
Or any other suggestions?
Pods are not my favourite.
Before I do the next start of the engine, I'll create a basic wire harness for ignition and the starter.
I am very carefully with the kick start because I didn't install the foot pegs yet, so I don't have a "stop" for its movement and I don't know if I damage anything inside while turning too far.
So I have a bit time to have an eye on the filters.
Thnaks a lot in advance!
Thilo
Yesterday a friend of mine suprised me with the result of his - more or less first - try to do this kind of painting and just left me speechless.
It is Blue-Wave from Ford and Champagne-Metallic from Mercedes-Benz. Pretty close to the original Candy Blue Green.
Never seen anything "handmade / just give it a try" prettier than that.
I'm more than happy!!
It is Blue-Wave from Ford and Champagne-Metallic from Mercedes-Benz. Pretty close to the original Candy Blue Green.
Never seen anything "handmade / just give it a try" prettier than that.
I'm more than happy!!
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Absolutely beautiful work, that will look fabulous on your bike. Reminds me of the CB750K0 color combination.Yesterday a friend of mine suprised me with the result of his - more or less first - try to do this kind of painting and just left me speechless.
It is Blue-Wave from Ford and Champagne-Metallic from Mercedes-Benz. Pretty close to the original Candy Blue Green.
Never seen anything "handmade / just give it a try" prettier than that.
I'm more than happy!!
I had a brand new 1969 CB450 in that color. Loved it.
Beautiful job, love the color. Happy New Year to you as well.
So, it's disassembled again and partially in the basement so I can do all the electrical work.
Everything has to be rewired from scratch. I'm also installing a kill switch and brake light switch at the front, and it's getting a switch on the side stand.
For that, I'll need three relays, which are already on the battery box.
The regulator and starter relay, as well as the complete side stand assembly including the switch, are coming from a Kawasaki EX500A1.
This is going to be interesting, because electrical work is definitely not my strong suit.
But it's the last chapter of this build.
Everything has to be rewired from scratch. I'm also installing a kill switch and brake light switch at the front, and it's getting a switch on the side stand.
For that, I'll need three relays, which are already on the battery box.
The regulator and starter relay, as well as the complete side stand assembly including the switch, are coming from a Kawasaki EX500A1.
This is going to be interesting, because electrical work is definitely not my strong suit.
But it's the last chapter of this build.
It's done when it's done.
Tomorrow last part: brake light switch on the front. Have a lack of M3 bolts.
Ready for german TÜV certification.
First "ride":
https://vimeo.com/1167104582?share=copy&fl=sv&fe=ci
Front brake is pretty aggressive.
Fine tuning to come as soon as it becomes warmer.
Tomorrow last part: brake light switch on the front. Have a lack of M3 bolts.
Ready for german TÜV certification.
First "ride":
https://vimeo.com/1167104582?share=copy&fl=sv&fe=ci
Front brake is pretty aggressive.
Fine tuning to come as soon as it becomes warmer.
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Very creative work Thilo, I like the integrated headlight case/speedo and the rearsets too.
Thank you. Both selfmade.
Headlight housing own design and 3D-print, rear sets own designed supports brackets for Yamaha FZR600 foot rests and levers.
Side stand from Kawasaki EX500A at an own design support bracket.
Headlight housing own design and 3D-print, rear sets own designed supports brackets for Yamaha FZR600 foot rests and levers.
Side stand from Kawasaki EX500A at an own design support bracket.
Thanks, I meant to ask what bike the pegs came from.
I fear I linked the wrong video yesterday?
That should be my ride:
https://vimeo.com/1167104582?share=copy&fl=sv&fe=ci
Corrected it above also.
Sorry.
That should be my ride:
https://vimeo.com/1167104582?share=copy&fl=sv&fe=ci
Corrected it above also.
Sorry.
Good morning!
I finally received my support brackets for the FZR600 foot rests...
... did the finish ...
... and solved the problem, that the right foot step has to easily be locked and unlocked in upper position.
The Idea came, as I drank a local FIEGE beer.
Works perfect!!
Other side already finished:
Still fine tuning to be done, but I'm very close to the shattered flag!!!
I finally received my support brackets for the FZR600 foot rests...
... did the finish ...
... and solved the problem, that the right foot step has to easily be locked and unlocked in upper position.
The Idea came, as I drank a local FIEGE beer.
Works perfect!!
Other side already finished:
Still fine tuning to be done, but I'm very close to the shattered flag!!!
stl360+450
Veteran Member
I'm enjoying this build. Really nice work.
I wonder if you are looking for the English expression checkered flag. I'm curious about the German expression for it now!
Exactly!
There a slight ticking noise from the top end...
Good morning all!
Last Sunday I did the first test ride. A few km at the farm of my friends. It runs well! Makes a lot of fun. Came home with a few minor tasks on my list which are mostly done already.
Just waiting for one part to arrive, the I'll do that again as preparation for the test ride, the TÜV guy want to do before legalization of this special CB.
But, once again, the engine started veeeery poor when cold. Maybe I'm just doing something wrong. And first only the left cylinder is firing.
All stock except the exhaust.
Both sides 10.5bar compression.
Carbs done by a professional.
Engine done by myself.
Ignition, valves set perfectly.
Runs and starts great when warm.
What's the "normal" starting procedure?
Choke 100% and kickstart isn't working at all.
With electric starter also.
Choke must be somewhere in the middle and maybe throttle a bit open, but I don't know.
Last Sunday I did the first test ride. A few km at the farm of my friends. It runs well! Makes a lot of fun. Came home with a few minor tasks on my list which are mostly done already.
Just waiting for one part to arrive, the I'll do that again as preparation for the test ride, the TÜV guy want to do before legalization of this special CB.
But, once again, the engine started veeeery poor when cold. Maybe I'm just doing something wrong. And first only the left cylinder is firing.
All stock except the exhaust.
Both sides 10.5bar compression.
Carbs done by a professional.
Engine done by myself.
Ignition, valves set perfectly.
Runs and starts great when warm.
What's the "normal" starting procedure?
Choke 100% and kickstart isn't working at all.
With electric starter also.
Choke must be somewhere in the middle and maybe throttle a bit open, but I don't know.
Most Honda twins with stock carbs and air filters prefer the throttle to be left at the idle position, or just slightly above idle, during cranking with the choke fully closed (On) only as long as it takes to get the engine started. Once the engine is running, most engines prefer the choke opened a little bit to avoid flooding. But each engine can be a little bit different in its requirements, you just have to learn what yours needs and does not need.
jensen
Veteran Member
The reason that AD mention that the choke should be fully closed is that otherwise the vacuum of the cylinder is too low to force the fuel through the idling route.
jensen
Veteran Member
Starting procedure for your 450 engine after rebuild:
- Take off the float bowls, or open the drain plugs on both carbs
- Open the tab, and make sure both carbs get fuel, close the tab again
- Put back the float bowls / close the drain plugs
- Open the tab and wait a (few) minutes.
- Choke fully closed, while ignition is off (or take off the spark plug caps)
- Run the electric starter for a while until you hear that the engine is sounding "smooth" (difficult to explain, but you can hear that full is in the cylinders)
- Switch on the ignition (or put the caps back on the spark plugs)
- Open the choke a little bit until the engine starts running to fast (high idle)
- Sit on the ground, start the engine (don't touch the throttle), and touch both headers
- Both headers should get warm evenly, at the same time (it can differ a few seconds, but that's it)
If only one header gets warm, focus on the cold side, either change the mixture screw, or / and throttle adjustment on the carburator until the header get's warm
Kill the engine, and let it cool down for a while, and repeat the sequence until both cylinders start firing.
If both cinders are firing at cold start, then you can start optimizing with the mixture screw's and idle screws for both legs.
With this method, you can't go wrong, but you have to be sure that the ignitions works as it should (timing should be spot on), compression is good.
When the engine starts and runs fine, you should only do the bold stuff.
In the end, and it's that's simple, the things that a cylinder need to fire, is correct mixture. enough compression, and ignition at the correct time.
btw, professional doesn't mean good, if for example the choke valves don't close properly 100% / even for each carb, than you'll always have trouble to start the engine on both legs
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Hello all!
Glad to tell you, that it passed our TÜV and it's on the road now!!
Still some things to do (fork springs too weak, shocks too strong, ...) , but at all I'm very satisfied and it makes a lot of fun riding.
Regarding starting procedure. I tried and followed all your advices. Nothing worked. Many minutes there is no sign at all, the she want to live. No nothing. Then, after long time on the starter (with breaks) one of the two cylinders begin to show up and so on.
Today I tried the same but with the Kickstarter.
Choke closed, throttle slightly open.
Three kicks and she was there on both cylinders yelling 'fine, let's go!'.
Maybe the starter robs too much energy from the spark plugs when cold?
I have BOSCH W4CC
Best regards!
Thilo
Glad to tell you, that it passed our TÜV and it's on the road now!!
Still some things to do (fork springs too weak, shocks too strong, ...) , but at all I'm very satisfied and it makes a lot of fun riding.
Regarding starting procedure. I tried and followed all your advices. Nothing worked. Many minutes there is no sign at all, the she want to live. No nothing. Then, after long time on the starter (with breaks) one of the two cylinders begin to show up and so on.
Today I tried the same but with the Kickstarter.
Choke closed, throttle slightly open.
Three kicks and she was there on both cylinders yelling 'fine, let's go!'.
Maybe the starter robs too much energy from the spark plugs when cold?
I have BOSCH W4CC
Best regards!
Thilo
RobMan
Veteran Member
Bad battery? Hook a volt meter up to your battery when you are trying to start with the starter and see how much voltage drop you have.