CB450K1-5 and others... mixed collections

TeaLow

TeaLow

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2025
Total Posts
129
Total likes
152
Location
Germany
Hi,
just wanted to share my project.
Years ago I bought some parts
(engine, carbs, swing arm, rear hub, front wheel, fork, clip ons, tank)
27117b62-2863-4d68-a9dc-8a2c182f74e1-1_all_4652.jpg
and I began finding the missing parts.

Last year I was heading to finish it as a K5, but the I found a K2 frame so I decided to finish it as a K2. I also have a K2 tank.

This is how it looked as it was in one piece last summer.

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At the moment the parts are to be blasted and painted, and the last two things are rebuilding the engine and making a wire harness. It'll get a TCI sparker with Pickups at the generator.

I don't want to built a stock 450 but one, like I would build it as I were 20 in the 70th. 😃
With the difference, that I designed and 3D printed a few parts, which wouldn't be possible back in the days.

What's special inside:
Ceriani GP35 fork
Tommaselli 271 clip ons
Münch front brake
Borrani rims 2.15 and 3.00"
BT45 tyres 100+120/90-18
Dresda swing arm
Hagon shocks
Giuliari seat
Daytona V80 Tacho with digital speedo
Unknown 2in1 with Dunstall muffler

So far I managed to do all this more or less on my own and I'm a bit proud of it. 🫢

I'll keep you updated, if you want, but earliest in a few weeks, when painting is done and reassembly starts.

Best regards,
Tea
 
TeaLow said:
This is how it looked as it was in one piece last summer.

At the moment the parts are to be blasted and painted, and the last two things are rebuilding the engine and making a wire harness. It'll get a TCI sparker with Pickups at the generator.

I don't want to built a stock 450 but one, like I would build it as I were 20 in the 70th. 😃
With the difference, that I designed and 3D printed a few parts, which wouldn't be possible back in the days.

What's special inside:
Ceriani GP35 fork
Tommaselli 271 clip ons
Münch front brake
Borrani rims 2.15 and 3.00"
BT45 tyres 100+120/90-18
Dresda swing arm
Hagon shocks
Giuliari seat
Daytona V80 Tacho with digital speedo
Unknown 2in1 with Dunstall muffler

So far I managed to do all this more or less on my own and I'm a bit proud of it. 🫢

I'll keep you updated, if you want, but earliest in a few weeks, when painting is done and reassembly starts
Click to expand...
Looking forward to more progress on this build, lots of interesting parts you've assembled.
 
Thank you very much!

Foot rests are finished (design, have to be machined) I use FZR600 parts.

1000059182.jpg
Kickstarter still fits.

Design of Ignition parts is also ready, have to be machined. And I have to program the TCI module.
1000073776.jpg

But first I have to paint anything.
Few decades ago I painted for the last time...
Frame and parts are getting black satin, tank, side covers and the printed headlight housing and supports will be painted originally candy blue green.
1000070759.jpg
 
Parts are back from sand blasting.
IMG_20250401_061422124.jpg
The side covers are more bumpy than feared, but at least the tank didn't come back as a sieve.
Paint is ordered. It's getting serious now. :eek:
 
Hi everyone,
Here's a little update.
Paint already is here!
I got the tank back yesterday. After sandblasting, I pressure-tested it again and actually found a tiny hole, which had to be soldered with silver solder.
During this time, I was able to remove most of the dents from the side covers; there's very little left to fill.
I just need to sand the tank a bit (with 240-grit sandpaper), and then I'll finally have everything ready to paint.
We're on Easter vacation next week, but after that, I'll start priming everything and painting the frame and the other steel parts satin black.
This will give me a good chance to brush up on my painting skills (last 30 years ago) and build up the courage to paint the tank, side covers, headlight housing, and bracket candy blue green.
 
1000076866.jpg

Everything primer coated!
Still got it after 30 years! 🤣
(mustn't look too close)
Maybe satin-black on Monday.

Afterwards I'll have to start working on the engines, if I want or not... Last big puzzle part before I can start reassembly.

Have a great Eastern!!
 
Finished the seat!
No idea, which model this Giuliari was made for, but now it has the cover from a CB400F and fits to a CB450K1-2.
Was a bit sheet bend and welding work, and 3D printing for sure.Proud as hell and very satisfied with this outcome.
Also fits in a K5, flipping to the side.

IMG_20250222_161331209.jpg

IMG_20250226_072125137.jpg

IMG_20250301_152109407.jpg

IMG_20250430_065543035.jpg

IMG_20250430_065515159_HDR.jpg


Now I start with the motor.
 
Day one working on the spare motor, got that very cheap and want to see it's inner parts.
It's the one with the easy out drowned at the exhaust stud.

1000079397.jpg

Nuts of the head all gone loose pretty easy

Unfortunately the starter mechanism and chain are missing.

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And more unfortunately the nut of the centrifuge were loose, so the axial bearing is dead.

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So, left and right side are empty now.
1000079452.jpg

Next is to opening the chain and getting off the head.

Question: is it important which link I open?
Ran it through twice and can't spot a "special" link.

Thanks!!
 
Step by step. Learning by reading. :)
Head, cylinder, pistons and lower housing off without finding more major issues or missing parts.


1000079654.jpg

1000079653.jpg

Sorry, I don't have a real workshop, just trying to do my best with what I have.

When anything is in parts, may I be allowed to come through with questions how to find out if parts are worn or not? The factory manual shows how, but who owns all these instruments?

What has to be said: I need a motor for a few rides per year, it's not my plan to ride daily or even often. So it doesn't need to be like new, just ok.

Thanks a lot in advance!
 
Disassembled except the head.

1000080265.jpg

Found no major issues but rings are loose on the right piston but "glued" on the left. Drowned in WD40, let's see.
Gears, shafts, cylinder walls, pistons, are looking very good.

The head of the piston rod can be oscillated to the side left less than 1mm and right a bit less.
That's what I was able to measure with my tools.

Should I have a closer look there?

So, the only things to do on this motor is finding and installing a starter clutch, new rings for the left piston, getting back the starter to life, replacing the axial bearing behind the primary gear wheel on the crank shaft, getting out the drowned easy out, don't not how you say but making the valves sealed and paint it.
 
Gears, shafts, cylinder walls, pistons, are looking very good.
Click to expand...

All the parts were shiny, you mean ? Did you measure and compare with the specifications in the manual ?

From here, as start, I see a piston pin burned, and if you didn't swap them, it's the right piston, how does the left piston pin look ?
 
As I wrote, I don't have access to all these NASA tools any more.
Yes, the surfaces are looking very good, and the fitting of the parts too.
From my experience would give it all a go.

Left piston is on the right of the picture, in the "WD40 pot". 😄
Should I replace the pins? Or can I check them?

According FSM, the crankshaft also looks ok.
I'll take it with me to my company to see, if it runs fine.

I don't want (economically can) put that engine in a "like new" condition.
It should run ok, it'll be my spare motor.
Just wanted to see, if there's a problem, which I already found. 😀
 
TeaLow said:
As I wrote, I don't have access to all these NASA tools any more.
Yes, the surfaces are looking very good, and the fitting of the parts too.
From my experience would give it all a go.

Left piston is on the right of the picture, in the "WD40 pot". 😄
Should I replace the pins? Or can I check them?

According FSM, the crankshaft also looks ok.
I'll take it with me to my company to see, if it runs fine.

I don't want (economically can) put that engine in a "like new" condition.
It should run ok, it'll be my spare motor.
Just wanted to see, if there's a problem, which I already found. 😀
Click to expand...
Close-up pictures of each individual part would help a lot more, and close-up pictures of the gears showing the engagement dogs clearly would help with the transmission. Both wristpins (gudgeon pins) should be replaced each rebuild, and the small ends of the rods should be checked as well. We can't see them as they are leaning away from us and not visible behind the crankshaft. Cam lobes and followers are always things that should be closely inspected too.
 
Thank you very much!
I'll try to make detailed photos and put them in a Google album or something like that.

Meanwhile, is there a way to get out this "roof" sheet metal? Want to clean underneath.

1000080197.jpg
Bolts are loose already.

Thanks and best regards
Thilo
 
TeaLow said:
Meanwhile, is there a way to get out this "roof" sheet metal? Want to clean underneath.


Bolts are loose already.
Click to expand...
What you are referring to is called the windage tray. It can be removed but in addition to removing the screws you would need to grind down the riveted corners. To secure it on reassembly requires drilling and tapping holes to receive screws in the four corners. It is kind of a pain to do but can be done and definitely allows for complete and thorough cleaning of the bottom case.
 
On my build I put the oil drain plug back in the lower case and filled with kerosene and let soak. Used some flexible wire brushes and worked under the windage tray. Flushed and rinsed several times and seemed to clean up well.
 
Good evening,
I just wanted to share my update.
All three engines (K0, K1 and K2) have been disassembled and checked as good as I can.
I painted and heat treated some parts and gave the others to a vapour honer.
First I'm just concentrating on the bottom engines, Cylinders and heads will follow in the second step.
Last parts are incoming soon but today I managed to reassemble the K1 bottom engine and set it on a roller plate.

IMG_20250701_190450669.jpg

IMG_20250704_184838578_HDR.jpg
IMG_20250909_150311701.jpg

And I invented and printes tools to dis- and reassemble the outer brearings of the crankshaft, or just take them off to store or clean before they fall off on thousand pieces.
Very helpful little guys!
They fit
K0 (bearing 32/42mm / left 21mm / right 21-25mm),
early K1 (bearing 32/42mm / left 21mm / right 22,5-25mm) and
all later models (bearing 34/46mm / left 21mm / right 22,5-25mm).
PM me if you are interested.

Screenshot 2025-09-09 201250.png

Best regards,
Thilo
 
TeaLow said:
Thank you very much!
I'll try to make detailed photos and put them in a Google album or something like that.

Meanwhile, is there a way to get out this "roof" sheet metal? Want to clean underneath.

View attachment 45512
Bolts are loose already.

Thanks and best regards
Thilo
Click to expand...
I missed this before and just noticed the dynastic date stamp of 43. 1. ??. That would be the 43rd year of the Showa dynasty beginning in 1925, so 1968, January, maybe 30th. That's the latest stamp I've seen.
Pretty cool.
 
Good morning,
Works well so far!

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Starting with the head now. :)

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This forum is a perfect library for me!!!
Thank you very much for sharing all these informations.

Best regards,
Thilo
 
Good evening!

Today I managed to install two heads (K0+K1), all with your help. Everything worked fine!!

The K1 engine already left the bench, I think I will install it in the frame tomorrow.
Kick-started on the ground it showed 10 bar on both sides. So I think I did something right. :)

I feel very glad!
Thank you all very much for your help!!

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Back on its wheels!! 🎉🥂

I used the method with motor lying on its side and put the frame over. Works great!

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Did you know, that early K1 (Like my engine 3001384) also have one 12 and one 10mm bore on its bottom for the long bolts in the frame, like the K0? All later have 12mm both.

Best regards,
Thilo
 
Last edited:
TeaLow said:
Good evening,
I just wanted to share my update.
All three engines (K0, K1 and K2) have been disassembled and checked as good as I can.
I painted and heat treated some parts and gave the others to a vapour honer.
First I'm just concentrating on the bottom engines, Cylinders and heads will follow in the second step.
Last parts are incoming soon but today I managed to reassemble the K1 bottom engine and set it on a roller plate.

View attachment 49501

View attachment 49502
View attachment 49503

And I invented and printes tools to dis- and reassemble the outer brearings of the crankshaft, or just take them off to store or clean before they fall off on thousand pieces.
Very helpful little guys!
They fit
K0 (bearing 32/42mm / left 21mm / right 21-25mm),
early K1 (bearing 32/42mm / left 21mm / right 22,5-25mm) and
all later models (bearing 34/46mm / left 21mm / right 22,5-25mm).
PM me if you are interested.

View attachment 49504

Best regards,
Thilo
Click to expand...
Very nice helpful printed tool. Did you clean the crank sludge traps that send oil from the center bearings to the con rod bearings?
I'm sorry if this is late since you have already assembled this motor but looks like there are others yet to do.
A helpful thread on Crank Cleaning, if you haven't seen it.

Crankshaft Cleaning

I've been following all of the build threads on this site and seeing the damage that foreign debris in the oil can cause I started to get paranoid about properly cleaning the crankshaft of my 71 CB450. In Teebo's most recent thread 12ozPBR mentions cleaning the flywheel area near the main...
www.vintagehondatwins.com www.vintagehondatwins.com

I'm sure your Dutch neighbor, Jensen, will appreciate your 450s.
 
ballbearian said:
Did you clean the crank sludge traps that send oil from the center bearings to the con rod bearings?
Click to expand...
Yes, I did check them, and lucky me, all three crankshafts were clean and in really good condition.
Thank you. :)
 
The side stand of the Kawasaki GPZ500S, mounted on the custom-made sheet metal bracket, fits very well with the 2-in-1 exhaust system! It also has a switch and doesn't fold up automatically. I still think that's the best design.

IMG_20251109_155506065.jpg
IMG_20251109_160020387.jpg

I'm still waiting for the milled parts for mounting the footrest assembly from a Yamaha FZR600. As soon as I have them and have checked the carburetor float levels, I can finish the mechanical assembly. Until then, I can at least statically pre-set the ignition timing, fill the engine with oil, and then kick, kick, kick.

By the way, what's the procedure for that?
Can I only check if oil is reaching the camshafts by kicking the engine over with the kickstarter?
If so, how long can that take? The engine was completely disassembled. Can I pre-fill it somehow beforehand? Or what's the best way? To get the engine running, I still have to build the complete wiring harness. And before it runs, I want to be sure that oil is getting up there. That's my biggest concern.

Best regards,
Thilo
 
TeaLow said:
The side stand of the Kawasaki GPZ500S, mounted on the custom-made sheet metal bracket, fits very well with the 2-in-1 exhaust system! It also has a switch and doesn't fold up automatically. I still think that's the best design.

View attachment 52264
View attachment 52265

I'm still waiting for the milled parts for mounting the footrest assembly from a Yamaha FZR600. As soon as I have them and have checked the carburetor float levels, I can finish the mechanical assembly. Until then, I can at least statically pre-set the ignition timing, fill the engine with oil, and then kick, kick, kick.

By the way, what's the procedure for that?
Can I only check if oil is reaching the camshafts by kicking the engine over with the kickstarter?
If so, how long can that take? The engine was completely disassembled. Can I pre-fill it somehow beforehand? Or what's the best way? To get the engine running, I still have to build the complete wiring harness. And before it runs, I want to be sure that oil is getting up there. That's my biggest concern.

Best regards,
Thilo
Click to expand...

Fill the engine with oil, take off the exhaust cam cover and intake cam cover, take out the spark plugs, connect the engine to a (strong) battery -, connect another wire onto the starter + (preferably the Honda starter cable). Lubricate the camshaft lobes with oil (I hope you lubricated the camshaft bearings while assembling ?), and connect the cable from the starter-motor to a decent starter cable with clamps, connect the starter cable with one side with the starter motor wire, and connect (no longer then 5 seconds) with the + of the battery. Disconnect for a while (cooling down the starter motor), lubricate the camshaft lobes again, and repeat this process until you see oil squirting out of the camshaft lobes (especially the left exhaust camshaft lobe).

This is a simple, and effective way to see if everything is working like it supposed to, without starting the engine. Make sure the engine can't wiggle or fall over, the forces of the starter motor while starting and stopping have to be taken care off.
 
Thank you very much, yes, I did lubricate anything during assembly.

And do you have an idea, how long that will take?
Or in other words, after which time should I start worrying, that something must be wrong?

Before, I'll also fill the cams through the holes, tilting the bike to left and right.
The engine already is in the frame.

Can I prefill the oil"filter" also before somehow?
 
TeaLow said:
Can I only check if oil is reaching the camshafts by kicking the engine over with the kickstarter?
Click to expand...
It would take you the rest of your life to do it that way LOL, use Jensen's method of course.
TeaLow said:
If so, how long can that take?
Click to expand...
With the stock oil pump, engine running, it can take 1 to 2 full minutes to get oil to the left exhaust cam lobe.
TeaLow said:
Can I pre-fill it somehow beforehand?
Click to expand...
I like to use an old-school squirt-style oil can to squirt oil into one of the cam lobe orifices while covering the other lobe orifice, and that way it eventually fills the passages around the 2 cylinder studs and runs backwards into the oil filter cup. But it takes a while to get all the passages full. Jensen's method works well.

Also, you need to remove the extra "barrel" shaped nut on the clutch cable or you'll have trouble adjusting it correctly later.

1762782592357.png
 
TeaLow said:
Thank you very much, yes, I did lubricate anything during assembly.
Click to expand...

Good
TeaLow said:
And do you have an idea, how long that will take?
Or in other words, after which time should I start worrying, that something must be wrong?
Click to expand...

With the spark plugs out, and a strong battery, it would be 10 sessions of 5 seconds at least. And if the plugs are out, you could 10 seconds per session on the starter motor. It takes normally less then 10 sessions of 10 seconds, Don't worry too much, as long as you lubricate the cam lobes not much can go wrong.

The only reasons why oil is not reaching the top are "sticking" of the ball valve in the oil pump, wrong mounting of the oil pump (forgotten O-ring), or wrong mounted oil filter cover / O-rings. I assume that you checked all these points and that the oil routing is free of clogging.
TeaLow said:
Before, I'll also fill the cams through the holes, tilting the bike to left and right.
The engine already is in the frame.
Click to expand...
Ok, I didn't notice that.
TeaLow said:
Can I prefill the oil"filter" also before somehow?
Click to expand...

Only if you have the cappellini oilfilter set-up.
 
TeaLow said:
Thank you very much, yes, I did lubricate anything during assembly.

And do you have an idea, how long that will take?
Or in other words, after which time should I start worrying, that something must be wrong?

Before, I'll also fill the cams through the holes, tilting the bike to left and right.
The engine already is in the frame.

Can I prefill the oil"filter" also before somehow?
Click to expand...

If your engine halves, cylinder or cylinder head is beat blasted, I would certainly check the oil for bead / glass particles. no matter how thoroughly you cleaned them, there is always a chance that particles are sticking somewhere, and work there way in the oil. Since these particles aren't magnetic, I would advice you to tap the oil off after a while, put thin layers of oil in a white tray and check for any contamination. Beat particles are dark, and glass particles shine when you use a strong flash light (Phone !) on the oil surface. Filtering is even better (coffee filter), but that will take ages with cold oil.
 
Thank you all very much!!

I already wondered about that Barrel, thought, it might be if my housind doen't have a thread.
Ok, I'll take it out.

That's why I'm so unsure. All the O-rings (three on the oil filter, one on the pump) passages, bores, sealings....
The pump looked great, the ball was rattling.
 
I only sent the covers and the camshaft bearings to be vapor honed.
The rest I did by hand. Exactly because of this.

And then I spent my time on cleaning, especially the clutch cover and Oil filter cap.
And the camshaft bearings for sure.

So, normally, anything should be fine!
Maybe it's just my lack of self-confidence or fear of my own courage. :-D
 
TeaLow said:
I already wondered about that Barrel, thought, it might be if my housind doen't have a thread.
Click to expand...
This piece has threads for the cable adjuster, the barrel nut is used on another bike this cable will fit.

www.cmsnl.com

JOIN CLUTCH for Honda - order at CMSNL

✓ Get the JOIN CLUTCH ✓ Manufacturer Part Number: 22875-283-000 ✓ Quality part
www.cmsnl.com www.cmsnl.com
 
jensen said:
Good


With the spark plugs out, and a strong battery, it would be 10 sessions of 5 seconds at least. And if the plugs are out, you could 10 seconds per session on the starter motor. It takes normally less then 10 sessions of 10 seconds, Don't worry too much, as long as you lubricate the cam lobes not much can go wrong.

The only reasons why oil is not reaching the top are "sticking" of the ball valve in the oil pump, wrong mounting of the oil pump (forgotten O-ring), or wrong mounted oil filter cover / O-rings. I assume that you checked all these points and that the oil routing is free of clogging.

Ok, I didn't notice that.


Only if you have the cappellini oilfilter set-up.
Click to expand...
Good morning, After 5 loads of the battery, put through the starter, I can say, that the oil doesn't reach the cams in these conditions.
Yesterday I opened the 19mm bolt of the tachimeter drive, no oil behind. And also no "new" oil the see at the cams and bearings.
But! I filled the engine with SAE30, which is like honey at our currernt temperatures of 5-10°C (which is also the reason, that my progress on this project temporarily flows like honey)

I also opened the cover of the seperator, and it was full with oil.
So the pump seems to do something right.

Now it might be, that the movement of the starter is too low to bring the honey-oil up in the head, maybe it is easier for the oil to flow towards the crankshaft bearings.

Nevertheless I have no choice but starting the motor and see. My plan:
adjusting the float levels of the carbs, completing the exhaust and the bare essentials in terms of electrical system and get the engine running.
Maybe I'll heat it up a bit with a fan heater from my camper before.

Then we'll see. And we'll see if it runs!! :)
Killing two birds with one stone

If not:
- the cover of the seperator is placed correctly, already checked
- the gasket of the clutch cover doesn't block the paths (lower and upper)
- o-ring at the pump is mounted and the ball inside works fine.
- all oil paths were unblocked (checked with compressed air before assembly)
two points I am unsure about, and I can not check now:
- is it possible that I did something wrong with the lower cylinder gasket? I didn't take any pictures unfortunately.
- are there any differences in the lubricating holes of the camshaft bearings through the generations of the motor?
Maybe, I mixed something up? I didn't have an eye on these bores during sorting and assembly.

Best regards and wish you a great start into the week,
Thilo
 
TeaLow said:
Good morning, After 5 loads of the battery, put through the starter, I can say, that the oil doesn't reach the cams in these conditions.
Yesterday I opened the 19mm bolt of the tachimeter drive, no oil behind. And also no "new" oil the see at the cams and bearings.
But! I filled the engine with SAE30, which is like honey at our currernt temperatures of 5-10°C (which is also the reason, that my progress on this project temporarily flows like honey)

I also opened the cover of the seperator, and it was full with oil.
So the pump seems to do something right.

Now it might be, that the movement of the starter is too low to bring the honey-oil up in the head, maybe it is easier for the oil to flow towards the crankshaft bearings.

Nevertheless I have no choice but starting the motor and see. My plan:
adjusting the float levels of the carbs, completing the exhaust and the bare essentials in terms of electrical system and get the engine running.
Maybe I'll heat it up a bit with a fan heater from my camper before.

Then we'll see. And we'll see if it runs!! :)
Killing two birds with one stone

If not:
- the cover of the seperator is placed correctly, already checked
- the gasket of the clutch cover doesn't block the paths (lower and upper)
- o-ring at the pump is mounted and the ball inside works fine.
- all oil paths were unblocked (checked with compressed air before assembly)
two points I am unsure about, and I can not check now:
- is it possible that I did something wrong with the lower cylinder gasket? I didn't take any pictures unfortunately.
- are there any differences in the lubricating holes of the camshaft bearings through the generations of the motor?
Maybe, I mixed something up? I didn't have an eye on these bores during sorting and assembly.

Best regards and wish you a great start into the week,
Thilo
Click to expand...

Strange, I use 10W50 and after a rebuild, I have oil at the left exhaust cam within the mentioned session lengths. If you think it's too cold, why don't you put a paint stripper or an electric air heater underneath the engine (only if you didn't paint the aluminum) and heat up the oil that way.
 
Yes, as I wrote, that's my plan now to heat it up a bit or waiting for rising temperatures..., and starting the motor and see if oil is coming then.

But what if not?
Do you have an idea if the camshaft bearings could have different lubrication borings?
Maybe I blocked the paths by using wrong parts, if there are differences?
But as far as I know, they are all the same from K1 on.

Some say I should loosen a cylinder head screw on the right (with the cupper washer) to see if oil is coming, but I am not a friend of it yet, to loosen onle one bolt.
 
TeaLow said:
Yes, as I wrote, that's my plan now to heat it up a bit or waiting for rising temperatures..., and starting the motor and see if oil is coming then.

But what if not?
Do you have an idea if the camshaft bearings could have different lubrication borings?
Maybe I blocked the paths by using wrong parts, if there are differences?
But as far as I know, they are all the same from K1 on.

Some say I should loosen a cylinder head screw on the right (with the cupper washer) to see if oil is coming, but I am not a friend of it yet, to loosen onle one bolt.
Click to expand...

Yes, never loosen a cylinder head bolt, too much risk of a leak headgasket over time.

You have a standard oil filter set-up ?
 
I am using Rotella 15W40 oil in my 450 and I tested the oiling system back in July when it was hot in North Carolina and it took quite a few spins on the starter to get oil up to the cams and it was puddling, no squirts like you might expect to see. With cold weather and straight 30W oil which is much thicker than a multi weight like 10W30, I can see it taking some time get oil moving all the way to the top. Get the engine warmed up some how, wait for warmer weather or if you plan to run it in the cold weather change the oil to the 10W40 like @jensen mentioned.
 
Yes standard oil separator.
Yes, I'll put the air fan heater from my camper in front of it for an hour or so.
And I'll start it up somehow.
I'm very close to it. Valve and point clearance already adjusted, just as ignition and valve timing. All perfect.
With plus on the coils already thick sparks to see, each side 11bar compression, 12,6Volts from the battery.
Last things missing:
Exhaust, carbs and a minimum of wiring, then I can give it a try.
But these days I come home as it is already dark, it is cold, and the pre-x-mas weekends are full.

So I think it will be one of these next-year-to-dos.
 
Today I leveled the fuel in the carbs and put everything together, put a wiren on the coils and gave it a try.

It runs!!

Just tried very short due to the immense noise, which is too much for here and today.

https://vimeo.com/1148420128?fl=pl&fe=sh

I think the airfilters are full, it just started without choke.
Will check it after Christmas. Maybe I'll wait for the less-noisier exhaust to be finished first.

Have a great 4th Advent or however you call it. :)

Thilo
 
TeaLow said:
Today I leveled the fuel in the carbs and put everything together, put a wiren on the coils and gave it a try.

It runs!!

Just tried very short due to the immense noise, which is too much for here and today.

https://vimeo.com/1148420128?fl=pl&fe=sh

I think the airfilters are full, it just started without choke.
Will check it after Christmas. Maybe I'll wait for the less-noisier exhaust to be finished first.

Have a great 4th Advent or however you call it. :)

Thilo
Click to expand...
Sounds good for the 3 seconds we get to hear it :ROFLMAO:
 
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