CA95 project(s)

ballbearian said:
The media does get duller the more you use it, according to my buddy. He keeps a special stash of virgin media for special projects.
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Makes sense, although these are glass balls. My main issue seems to be the more I keep reusing the stuff, the more paint dust is in the balls. The one thing that I have noticed is that after while I am getting tons of moisture coming out the sprayer, but my glass filter is not filling up. When I go back the next day everything is back to working well.
Seems silly to be using 100lbs of media for a project this small, but it takes what it takes.
 
Not a big surprise, but the 2 nicely primed parts that were part of the whole parts pile had been "repaired" with JB weld and the paint was right over the top of rust. Kinda figured, so that is why I decided to strip them. The primed tank is junk - bottom edges were all rusted out and patched with JB or bondo. Luckily the other tank is better (red one in picture).

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I did finally get the froze petcock off the late tank from you. This is interesting, keep posting. You have the chrome panels that match the red one? You had one frame (red?) that was an early model and it would have the early panels (and pads), not sure if there is an early vs. late tank. Just check the fit before too much time in blast or paint.
So confusing, 1st post pic has red frame with Dream forks, not sure what it is. I know you ditched the extra frames.
 
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The red one was a ca160 - as far as I know. I will check the side plates, pretty sure both tanks fit the same and I do have a set of side plates from the red tank - I think.
 
I did take a look at the tanks and they are identical. The side plates fit both of them and the frame mounting is the same. Wish I could have used the primered one since it is a lot cleaner inside, but there is a half lb of jb weld or something similiar patching up holes in one side of the bottom of the tank. In the previous owners defense, he was trying to make it an electric MC so likely didn't care about the fuel tank safely holing gas.
 
oldjeep said:
I did take a look at the tanks and they are identical. The side plates fit both of them and the frame mounting is the same. Wish I could have used the primered one since it is a lot cleaner inside, but there is a half lb of jb weld or something similiar patching up holes in one side of the bottom of the tank. In the previous owners defense, he was trying to make it an electric MC so likely didn't care about the fuel tank safely holing gas.
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I remember Flying 900 do a great solder job on pinholes. Still need long soak to derust first.
 
What was patched is definitely not pinholes. If I get super bored maybe I'll chisel some of the JB weld off and look. In general I won't use JB weld for anything but filling a non load bearing hole that I intend to tap.
 
ballbearian said:
The white tank rust looks mostly external, let me know if needed.
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Appreciate it. The red one ought to be fine, I blasted all the bottom parts and there are no holes or filler pooky. Trying to decide if I am going to start priming the stuff that is done to get it out of the way or spend another day or 2 sand blasting. Neither seems like a lot of fun ;)
 
oldjeep said:
Appreciate it. The red one ought to be fine, I blasted all the bottom parts and there are no holes or filler pooky. Trying to decide if I am going to start priming the stuff that is done to get it out of the way or spend another day or 2 sand blasting. Neither seems like a lot of fun ;)
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Sweet. Two crumby choices, :D That's why I have no-gress going on here, a bunch of senior family and senior neighbor issue stuff, myself included.
 
Still have a few more parts to blast and prime, but most of it is sitting in the curing room now. The frame has been sitting a week, could be wet sanded and painted but I want to get all the sand blast/primer work done before starting to rotate the parts back out to the garage.
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Ordered a NOS footpeg bar from eBay after wasting an hour trying to straighten out the one I had. It was bent in multiple directions and even using the press and v blocks it was never going to be straight.
 
Without an oxy/ace torch and a very long heavy pipe, it is really hard. I've done some in situation (bolted in place with a long heavy pipe but had to have two people, one on and holding the bike the other bending with the pipe. I'm amazed you found a new one.
 
ballbearian said:
Without an oxy/ace torch and a very long heavy pipe, it is really hard. I've done some in situation (bolted in place with a long heavy pipe but had to have two people, one on and holding the bike the other bending with the pipe. I'm amazed you found a new one.
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There were 4 or 5 nos ones on eBay. I bought the cheapest one.
 
Finished up the sandblasting yesterday, decided not to bother with the seat frame since it doesn't show and is pretty rust free. I'll just pressure wash it, wire brush and then apply some rust convertor before priming/painting that. Next up is some work on the tank, which does have some pin holes. Going to solder them up today and then I ordered some Caswells tank epoxy to coat the tank. Only other thing to repair is the chain guard is missing a small chunk that I need to weld on a piece to replace.
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I'll clean it up later and see if I got most of them. This is really just to keep the tank liner in when I get to that part. I'm not a fan of the duct tape method.
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Decided to get rid of some boxes and clean up and install the brakes. Polishing on.my janky setup takes a while, only got half done on the front so I'll finish the front tomorrow.
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oldjeep said:
Polishing on my janky setup takes a while, only got half done on the front so I'll finish the front tomorrow.
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I like it. I don't have a bench setup for polishing, either, but maybe I can set up a janky one after seeing this. Seems safe enough as long as you keep the buffing wheel loaded up horizontally. The cardboard is a nice touch of practicality!
 
stl360+450 said:
I like it. I don't have a bench setup for polishing, either, but maybe I can set up a janky one after seeing this. Seems safe enough as long as you keep the buffing wheel loaded up horizontally. The cardboard is a nice touch of practicality!
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It works OK. I got a cheap polishing kit from harbor Freight for $20 that has a variety of wheels and 3 types of polishing compound. So far just been using the black heavy grit, figure if I get bored during final assembly that I will take another pass at things before installing.
 
You can do a lot with just that. Corded drill needed for higher rpm than battery ones. Larger wheels, 4-6" have faster edge speed too. I got a big 8" buffer and it's a little better, not sure if worth the space and cost.
I use the medium red rouge too.
 
Started paint today. Did switch to rattle can after realizing how many nooks and crannies there were during priming. I'll do 3 coats from the bottom and then flip it tomorrow
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I don't think these monocoque frames get the complete repaint treatment like you're doing very often. There is a lot of crannies and small gaps in all the built up layers of stamped and welded metal. The structural integrity Honda achieved is something to ponder. I enjoyed the visual experience when I did mine, almost hated to finish assembling and cover it all up. Hopefully these old metal sculptures will endure for more decades to come.
 
Would have preferred to have it dipped, but I think I got everything reachable cleaned and sealed
 
So much for ebay bearings. Ugg, not even close to the right size
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Do you have the original race both internal (frame) and steering post? How about the bearing balls? I think the number of steering balls is 18 top race ? 18 bottom race.
 
Definitely have the races, not sure about the balls. I took a couple of these apart and definitely spread them all over the floor. I'll have to check on what I have - just typically prefer to replace bearings when I have stuff apart.

Edit - yeah 36 balls in the fork hardware can. Likely some more in the misc crap can

Likely fold up the paint tent for a week and start degreasing fork innards tonight. Need to stick the harness in the frame first, but then should be able to start putting the major parts back together - or at least figure out what I want to do for hardware on the visible stuff.
 
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Spokes said:
I reuse the steering race and balls without issue. Just saying
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I'm sure they will be fine. Just a habit I am in ;) The wheels and sprocket carrier got all new double sealed bearings. I'll just return the steering bearings and clean all the crud off the old ones.
 
Question for folks who have done this before. #7 washer? I don't see that in any of my part piles. #6 is maybe what looks like a modern single lip seal in the parts pile. Is this an accurate drawing?

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Look again on your steering stem. Sometimes this washer gets stuck on the bottom of the stem. Yes, the double dust shield stacks on top of the washer . Drawing correct.IMG_6441 Steering Washer.jpg
 
If it was there, it would be very blue ;) Funny thing is that I have found 3 complete sets of races/bearings, only one seal and 0 washers. I'll just add it to my cart on Partzilla. They are super cheap just not worth shipping on its own.
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Actually - looking at the picture I just posted and comparing to @Spokes - wondering if the washer is un-needed on this fork design.
 
Ordered the washer,seal and bottom race since I cut the one lower I had. Meanwhile, disassembled 6 front shocks and took the best 2 cylinders to re assemble. Deployment tonight until 2am so I will put them in the fork then.
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Ok. Put them mostly in the fork and then ordered 200 rubber washers on Amazon so I have the 2 I need ;)
 
No, just using them as isolators between the fork/fender mounting points to protect the paint.
 
I have the original fender protectors as supplied by Honda. Yours if interested. They are just sitting in my parts drawer.
 

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Spokes said:
I have the original fender protectors as supplied by Honda. Yours if interested. They are just sitting in my parts drawer.
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Sure, that would be great. Those must stick in the small holes on fender?
 
Another bit of fun - I can't seem to get the fender between the fork legs. It is pretty good and stuck, so I figured that I'd let it be for a while before I bend something. 1757604043083.png
 
What about a reversible clamp to spread the forks slightly to allow clearance for the fender. Not advocating for this brand, it was just a picture I found to illustrate the reverse clamp.
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Ive got plenty of those from a prior paddle board project. Worth a shot
 
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