CA95 project(s)

ballbearian said:
That may be the Keyster kit for the older rounded bowl type. I could always use a spare of those.
Click to expand...
I will see if it can be retrieved - tossed it in the bin on Saturday. FWIW - they claim that kit fits 1959-1966. The bowl gasket is the right shape - roughly, but doesn't fit. The needle and seat are not even close.
 
Thanks.
16172-202-004 round bowl

16172-030-004 square bowl

float valve and needle (together) 16125-259-004, early
16123-011-004 from CA95E-8075761 on
I wouldn't totally trust the 8.... engine number. Other info shows late models (63-66) start 3106641. All the lates I've seen are square bowls, Nor sure about float valves, not sure it matters much.
 
ballbearian said:
Thanks.
16172-202-004 round bowl

16172-030-004 square bowl

float valve and needle (together) 16125-259-004, early
16123-011-004 from CA95E-8075761 on
I wouldn't totally trust the 8.... engine number. Other info shows late models (63-66) start 3106641. All the lates I've seen are square bowls, Nor sure about float valves, not sure it matters much.
Click to expand...
I can't trust engine numbers anyways. No idea which engine the carb would have come off of - it was in a box of parts ;)
 
Finished up the FZ600 and sold it on Craigslist yesterday. Only projects to consume time now are an electric guitar kit and the CA95. Moved the CA95 onto the lift (sorta - moved the table onto the lift). Next step is to make sure that I know all the tin parts that need to be media blasted and get it all taken to a local guy. Took the easy way out and ordered a NOS front fender that'll be here in a week, so the only bodywork to be done is on the rear fender.
IMG_20250405_131209_HDR.jpg
1744198787094.png
1744198878446.png
 
Got the frame and forks stripped out. Need to do some degreasing and then figure out a media blaster or dipper. I really want to dip this stuff given how it is all hollow but exposed. Not sure if that is in the budget. The front headlight tin and tank need further inspection. I can tell that there is some bondo or jb weld under the primer. Not willing to risk having painted and then find out that is how holes got patched.
IMG_20250409_153815_HDR.jpg

IMG_20250409_153820_HDR.jpg

IMG_20250409_153827_HDR.jpg

IMG_20250409_153911_HDR.jpg
 
A NOS front fender. Amazing. A German taillight/licence plate bracket?

I've got some frame dipping to do too. Here is my idea. Put frame in a heavy mil trash bag. Put some bands of duct tape to reduce the extra volume. Place this in a tall trash can. Fill bag with frame with my 16 gallons of Rust911 mix ($80), then fill the void between bag and can with water to further reduce volume in the bag.
Hope for the best and pray the levy don't break.
 
No idea what the plate bracket is from - was in parts pile. In terms of the fender - there are/were 3 of them on eBay from a Honda shop that seems to have a lot of nos stuff.
 
The German plates are giant. If you use it, you could always rent out billboard ad space.
I think the US ones are the same for Benly and Dream.

zTs3CHam.jpg

Do you have one like this?
 
Last edited:
There was a mangled bracket like that on one of the frames. Didn't keep it -- I like the look and sturdiness of the billboard;)
 
oldjeep said:
There was a mangled bracket like that on one of the frames. Didn't keep it -- I like the look and sturdiness of the billboard;)
Click to expand...
I'd be tempted to put one of those slow moving farm equipment orange triangles on it.
Are you thinking of putting the faded red 60's CT90 rear rack on too?

What is the rear wheel thing with the rotopacks and hard boxes on it?
 
ballbearian said:
I'd be tempted to put one of those slow moving farm equipment orange triangles on it.
Are you thinking of putting the faded red 60's CT90 rear rack on too?

What is the rear wheel thing with the rotopacks and hard boxes on it?
Click to expand...
LOL. I have not decided about the rack - but likely not.

The trailer is something I haul behind my FJR. I built it out of a crashed FZ1 a couple years ago.
IMG_20240915_125237_HDR_s.jpg
 
The FJR is half pack mule and half track bike ;) It's the one bike I own that isn't likely ever going to be for sale.
1Z0A1509-ZF-4834-97002-1-001-005_s.jpg
 
This weeks task is to start cleaning up the parts for paint, and welding up a couple extra holes in the rear fender. Found a new old stock fender on ebay for the front and decided that seemed like more fun than doing body work on the other fender I had.
IMG_20250414_092632_HDR.jpg
 
The universe selected the color for the bike. Originally I was thinking VW Cornflower Blue, but then I was at home depot and they were selling out gallons of Rustoleum industrial paint - Safety Blue. For $4.50 :love:
Decided that I'm going to paint this one myself using the foam roller method.
Close enough ;)
1744723649174.png
 
Last edited:
Another craigslist distraction has entered the shop, but should be able to get started on the painted parts cleanup on the Benly next week.
$200 85 FZ750 - I must really love rebuilding carbs.
IMG_20250419_171949_HDR.jpg
 
Finally getting back to working on the Benley now that the FZ750 is just about done. Will get started on some of the bodywork and painting in the next week or so, but have it all organized now so that I can see what I am dealing with.
1751894898965.png
1751894918026.png
1751894939439.png
1751895005263.png
 
Painted the engine, still need to flip it and get the bottom. Then all the hardware gets replaced with stainless allen head stuff. Also did a test piece for the color that the bike will be
1752756341286.png
1752756355451.png
 
Is the blue really done with a roller? Cheap HF or amazon spray gun would be my choice. May have to thin it first.
 
ballbearian said:
Is the blue really done with a roller? Cheap HF or amazon spray gun would be my choice. May have to thin it first.
Click to expand...
You would be surprised at the paint jobs you can to with small high density rollers and rust oleum. This used to be a thing years ago and I painted several jeeps that way.
 
And all done messing with this project bike, looks a lot better in close to stock colors than it did in Blue. So should be able to spend time preparing the frame and forks for paint on the CA95

1753114988271.png
 
Got the few cracks and extra holes welded up yesterday, right side of fender still has a bit of a bulge - seems like fender got smacked from rear at some point. Waiting on a sandblaster from ebay so that I can strip the rest of the frame and get going on the paint.
1754940954740.png 1754940968470.png
 
On my several attempts, with those bulges, I've gotten improvement but not perfection. They are tough. I've had best results with Irwin quick clamps and a long 2x4 on the good side. I've used rubber mallets, dead blows hammers with a wheel with tire as a buck inside. It's just so springy and hard to concentrate force in the right way.
I've also taken to adding a triangular reinforcing plate under those cracks because they can reappear due to the stress.
1SQUprwl.jpg


I also mount the taillight bracket over a slab of inner tube rubber and run an extra ground wire forward.
 
Luckily I don't need to worry about the taillight mount cracks, I'm going with the huge square plate/light mount that attaches way above and below that area. I messed around with the bulge for a little while yesterday and seems like I need to make a 3 pin jig that I can use a clamp on. Some sort of backing plate in that area seems like a good idea, maybe even one that goes side to side and helps hold the fender in shape. Honestly it wouldn't kill me to leave it the way it is, but since I am going bare metal on this project it would be nice to get everything straight. Sandblaster gets here friday, so hopefully I can get going on stripping everything this weekend.
 
I'll give your suggestion a shot as well. See what happens if I let it sit like this for a while
1754999440356.png
 
Looks good. Welded cracks can reappear after/during metal bending, same with bulges appearing after welding heat. Back and forth, it's a challenge.

Benlys and Dreams both have rear end vibration issues (360 crank?). I myself experience fatigue after 60 years. :)
 
ballbearian said:
Looks good. Welded cracks can reappear after/during metal bending, same with bulges appearing after welding heat. Back and forth, it's a challenge.

Benlys and Dreams both have rear end vibration issues (360 crank?). I myself experience fatigue after 60 years. :)
Click to expand...
Welding stuff is all done, those were the only cracks anywhere that I have seen. Will revise that after I sandblast it (likely walnut shells). This one is mostly going sit around and my wife might put 20 miles on it a year after she learns to ride a motorcycle and maybe I'll take it over to the car show in town ;) It is way outside my normal sportbike projects, but wife liked it. I still need to pickup something light and short for her to learn on since this thing is still going to be pretty heavy.
 
oldjeep said:
Welding stuff is all done, those were the only cracks anywhere that I have seen. Will revise that after I sandblast it (likely walnut shells). This one is mostly going sit around and my wife might put 20 miles on it a year after she learns to ride a motorcycle and maybe I'll take it over to the car show in town ;) It is way outside my normal sportbike projects, but wife liked it. I still need to pickup something light and short for her to learn on since this thing is still going to be pretty heavy.
Click to expand...
Seeing your other great projects, I look forward to seeing this one too.
 
Started in on the sand blasting (glass balls). It is hot in long pants and a respirator so I can only stand about 30 minutes at a time. This is the result of one session. Figure I have another 4 or 5 to go
1755711454648.png
 
oldjeep said:
Started in on the sand blasting (glass balls). It is hot in long pants and a respirator so I can only stand about 30 minutes at a time. This is the result of one session. Figure I have another 4 or 5 to go
Click to expand...
I'm still scheming a way to do full immersion Rust911 baptism.
 
Done for today. Still need to do inside fender/frame too. The factory welding looks like a 5 year old did it. Will be cleaning that up and removing all the splatter.
1000002866.jpg1000002868.jpg

1000002865.jpg
 
Finished it up last night. Still need to scrape off the rest of that double stick tape by where the battery goes - blaster wouldn't remove it. The inside of frame is pretty clean, going to spray some rust convertor in there to get all the nooks and crannies. Next clean up the welds and then epoxy primer the frame. Need to decide where in the process I want to blast the forks, swingarm, etc. Typically easier for me to just do a few parts at a time and then finish paint everything at once

1755865563625.png
 
Is that your blaster closet or an outdoor shower set up?

Cleaning out any blockage or restriction in the rear fender wiring channels is easier now than later.
 
It's a pop up paint booth tent that also works for sandblasting.
I was planning on using bed liner inside fenders and frame. Guess I will have to figure out a way to keep those wiring channels open.
 
oldjeep said:
It's a pop up paint booth tent that also works for sandblasting.
I was planning on using bed liner inside fenders and frame. Guess I will have to figure out a way to keep those wiring channels open.
Click to expand...
I also learned to install wiring when it's upside down. Much easier.
 
Few down, tons to go. Need to find a local place to get something more aggressive than glass bead for some of the remaining parts.
1000002896.jpg
 
ballbearian said:
The farm stores have more aggressive media.
Click to expand...
I'll give fleet farm a shot. Northern tool used to always have a good selection of bagged media -50lbs for $15. Now they have coal slag and glass beads. The do sell some way over priced bins of other stuff, but $50 is just crazy for 5-10 lbs.
 
oldjeep said:
I'll give fleet farm a shot. Northern tool used to always have a good selection of bagged media -50lbs for $15. Now they have coal slag and glass beads. The do sell some way over priced bins of other stuff, but $50 is just crazy for 5-10 lbs.
Click to expand...
I will PM a supplier name for abrasives at the industrial level. Choices galore. 120/80 grit black silicon abrasive will erase corrosion like a paint brush.
 
One more post. I love painting. Back in 2011 while residing in Eden Prairie, Minnesota (my job at the time transferred me three times in 11 years) I was building two bikes.
In the garage was my air filtration system. Grind Coolant filter paper. I found this to be the easiest way to paint lots of parts. ca's minnasotapaint farmuser99_pic597_1309402607.jpg
 
oldjeep said:
I'll give fleet farm a shot. Northern tool used to always have a good selection of bagged media -50lbs for $15. Now they have coal slag and glass beads. The do sell some way over priced bins of other stuff, but $50 is just crazy for 5-10 lbs.
Click to expand...
Maybe Harbour Freight too.
 
I found some aluminum oxide yesterday that I will use sparingly - mostly because I can't use it when wearing shorts like I can with the glass beads ;) Got the fork all blasted yesterday after work - about an hour and a half of blast for 10-15 minutes, wait for compressor to catch up, sweep up the media to use again. I guess the swing arm will be next - that has the most rust on it. I should probably press the bushings out since they look pretty dried out anyway. Ordered up some steering bearings and cables from China and Thailand. We'll see how long it takes to get here or how screwed up international shipping is gonna get in 3 days.

1756212391693.png
1756212409582.png
 
Last edited:
The media does get duller the more you use it, according to my buddy. He keeps a special stash of virgin media for special projects.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom