CA95 Completely Dead

Tom Connolly

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Joined
Mar 28, 2023
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Location
Olympia, Wa, USA
Hi there, I recently bought a low mileage 1965 CA95. It is a non runner, when I put in a new battery, I turned the key and was please to see that all the lights worked and the horn worked too. Pushed starter button and all I got was a CLICK, tried again, CLICK, I tried another half dozen times and on the last click EVERYTHING went off. I now have no lights, no horn no nothing. Battery is good, all connections are good, continuity good at all starter related connections, fuse is good, ground is good. I tried jumping the magnetic start solenoid- nothing. I’m thinking it’s either the key switch or the solenoid but would a bad solenoid completely shut everything down? It’s like a blown fuse but the fuse is good. Any suggestions? Thank you!
 
Starter itself may be frozen or your new battery isn't fully charged. Battery should be at or above 6.4 volts. Disconnect the battery then use car jumper cables to connect body of starter to negative and touch positive lead to the cable connector on the starter, it should bump. If not then the starter is in need of cleaning. Consult the FSM for procedure, if you don't have it then ask Ancientdad to get you into our library to get it. Commutators get funky and the brushes too. Oh, check the in-line fuse on the red wire from battery positive if everything died. 10 amp from auto parts store.
 
Thank you for replying ballbearian, battery is fresh off the charger, around 6.24V, The bike has the original 15amp fuse in it and I tested it, it was good.. I even took the fuse out, cleaned and connected the red fuse wire together and still nothing. Would a stuck or bad starter cause everything to be dead? I don’t have any electrical power at all, no lights, no horn I have 6.24 going to the starter solenoid from the battery, after that nothing.
 
Thanks for replying AncientDad I haven’t tried that but I can put it in gear, roll the bike forward and can tell the motor is not frozen.
 
Tom Connolly said:
Thanks for replying AncientDad I haven’t tried that but I can put it in gear, roll the bike forward and can tell the motor is not frozen.
Click to expand...

Glad the engine is free, hopefully it runs well. As to your electrical situation, as long as the battery has 6.24 after resting for a while (as opposed to right off the charger) and all your connections are good, then the ignition switch contacts could be corroded. IIRC, those older switches are serviceable and can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned up.

FYI, you can use the "Reply With Quote" button for individual responses when you have multiple members to respond to.
 
Unplug one of the horn wires and turn on the key switch and see if you have 6 volts at the horn . If not remove the head light and check the red wire at the ing switch. While in the bucket see if you have 6 volts on the red/yellow wire [ starter button.]
Also look at the neutral light. Red wire from battery to ing switch. ing ,black wire, from switch to neutral light, horn , coils , and rear brake light.

Bill H
 
Don't forget the 1st key position is starter only but no ignition or lights, etc. This is for cold weather priming the motor. Key only comes out (off) in 2nd position and park (5th).

You can disassemble the solenoids and clean the fat contacts in the top of it, dielectric grease or buy a cheap replacement.
 
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If doing a lot of testing I suggest you remove the coils . Power on for 15 minuets or longer, maybe not that long will burn them. You can still test all wiring just no power to the coils.

Bill H
 
ballbearian said:
Starter itself may be frozen or your new battery isn't fully charged. Battery should be at or above 6.4 volts. Disconnect the battery then use car jumper cables to connect body of starter to negative and touch positive lead to the cable connector on the starter, it should bump. If not then the starter is in need of cleaning. Consult the FSM for procedure, if you don't have it then ask Ancientdad to get you into our library to get it. Commutators get funky and the brushes too. Oh, check the in-line fuse on the red wire from battery positive if everything died. 10 amp from auto parts store.
Click to expand...

I connected car jumper cables to the starter like you said to and it cranked over. So I think we can assume the starter is ok…. I think.
 
ancientdad said:
Glad the engine is free, hopefully it runs well. As to your electrical situation, as long as the battery has 6.24 after resting for a while (as opposed to right off the charger) and all your connections are good, then the ignition switch contacts could be corroded. IIRC, those older switches are serviceable and can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned up.

FYI, you can use the "Reply With Quote" button for individual responses when you have multiple members to respond to.
Click to expand...

Ok everyone, thank you all for the assistance, I think I may have figured it out-

After checking for continuity everywhere and getting good results, I started thinking it was time to start buying a new key switch…. and then I saw the prices!!! So I went back at it and with the help of the book “Motorcycle Electrical Systems” by Tracy Martin I discovered that the GROUND wire was bad. I know what you’re thinking/saying- “That’s the first thing you should have checked!” but in my defense it was the first thing I checked however I checked it for CONTINUITY, not RESISTANCE. If I bend it back and forth with the key switch on the light come on and off. If I push the star button the bike cranks over. SUCCESS! I hope. New ground/earth strap has been ordered. Thanks again everyone! I’ll post pics when I figure out how to. My bike has an Instagram if anyone is interested.
 
Cool, all the 6volt bikes I have and know are finnicky for good grounds. Clean all connections real good and use dielectric grease (aka bulb grease) on every contact surface. It is sooo worth it.

The headlight on my 6 volt Benly is much brighter than Charles' 12 volt Dream, so I get to ride point for him on the dark country roads here.
 
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