Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160

I think it's too far front to be effective. I'd have the front wheel through it. Acrylic is cheaper than polycarbonate but weaker. Not sure about one-off fabrication techniques.
 
Alan F. said:
I've been thinking quite a bit about these fenders and air cleaner covers, they play a pretty large role in the overall look of the bike. I've decided to respray them rather than keep their scratches, dents and former rust spots as they are. I've ordered a couple cans of genuine Honda 08707-NH35M TUP CLOUD SILVER and will wait for warmer weather to wash off the protective coat of dried Evaporust and begin prepping these parts.
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Okay, I'll advise everyone not to order anything from Boats.net as it's been over 2 weeks and every day or two I've received an email pushing out their shipping date another day or two. I'm pissed off and I've requested a refund for my order from these idiots.

Is it really too much to ask that an online vendor ACTUALLY HAVE THE STUFF THEY'RE SELLING IN STOCK & READY TO SHIP?

APARENTLY IT IS TOO MUCH TO ASK.

Deadbeat seller, never bother buying from boats.net

I'll have to find rattle cans of Honda Cloud Silver somewhere else.
 
Alan F. said:
Okay, I'll advise everyone not to order anything from Boats.net as it's been over 2 weeks and every day or two I've received an email pushing out their shipping date another day or two. I'm pissed off and I've requested a refund for my order from these idiots.

Is it really too much to ask that an online vendor ACTUALLY HAVE THE STUFF THEY'RE SELLING IN STOCK & READY TO SHIP?

APARENTLY IT IS TOO MUCH TO ASK.

Deadbeat seller, never bother buying from boats.net

I'll have to find rattle cans of Honda Cloud Silver somewhere else.
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I know just how frustrating that is, I had the same experience from Midwest Traction last year when trying to buy tires they listed at their website. Sucks.
 
Alan F. said:
Apparently they're part of Partzilla, enough said...
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From Boats.net website
On our websites - Partzilla.com, Boats.net, and Firedog.com - you'll find over a million in-stock parts for outboard motors, motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, PWCs, scooters, and power equipment of all sizes.
Same ownership however a different division which may be run differently. I've never had any problem with Partzilla orders but haven't ordered much for the last couple of years and with the supply chain garbage going on who knows. My daughter deals with shipping and is constantly mentioning how a container ship is still parked waiting to unload, sometimes the same ship 2 weeks later.
 
So they replied today saying that they'd love to give me a refund, but the package shipped today....
They'll send a return label if I don't mind waiting for it to be delivered first....

I asked for a tracking number 5 hours ago and have received no reply.
 
I just spoke with their customer service rep who sent me my tracking number, looks like UPS hasn't picked it up yet. I'll try again later on.
 
Well, at least there really is a tracking number, sounded like a dodge at first. It usually takes close to 24 hours fir the tracking to get into the system to be checked
 
Actually UPS picked it up & scanned it already. Delivery by end of day Thursday Feb. 3rd.

Finally.
 
The supply chain info is probably true. I can see the container ships in San Francisco (Oakland) bay, waiting to be allowed to moor to the docks and be unloaded, and there are a lot of them. In addition, there are said to be ships waiting in the ocean off San Francisco because all the parking places in the Bay are full. Just like parking in the city - no open spots.
 
wentwest said:
The supply chain info is probably true. I can see the container ships in San Francisco (Oakland) bay, waiting to be allowed to moor to the docks and be unloaded, and there are a lot of them. In addition, there are said to be ships waiting in the ocean off San Francisco because all the parking places in the Bay are full. Just like parking in the city - no open spots.
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And don't forget the new trend of rail yards full of trains with containers on them that haven't left yet - only God knows why - and they're being looted right where they sit, so first the stuff sits in containers on ships in the Pacific, then in the Bay, and then when it finally gets close to going where it's supposed to go it gets stolen.
 
wentwest said:
The supply chain info is probably true. I can see the container ships in San Francisco (Oakland) bay, waiting to be allowed to moor to the docks and be unloaded, and there are a lot of them. In addition, there are said to be ships waiting in the ocean off San Francisco because all the parking places in the Bay are full. Just like parking in the city - no open spots.
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At the moment I see 7 container ships being unloaded in Oakland, 1 in SF, 1 in Redwood City, 15 parked and 1 in motion south which probably means it's going to park or going to Redwood City.
https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/home/centerx:-122.5/centery:37.7/zoom:8
 
I've watched that one too and while not exactly Evaporust, it's definitely worth a shot if you're willing to try.
 
Time for a small update. I've finally separated the swingarm from the frame.

I was trained to mill by the Swiss:

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I was concerned with hacking up the passenger peg mount so I took it slowly.

20220307_133106.jpg

And only hacked up the washer:

20220307_133044.jpg

Then...

Edit: ...after removing the brass grease zerk...

...with a 2x4 block & 2lb hammer I drove the pivot bolt out as far as I could, then twisted with a wrench to get the rest of the way. Unfortunately the steel collar on the right side of the bike is frozen to the pivot bolt, can't remove that passenger peg mount until the collar comes off, more Deep Creep and I'll check it in a few days. I also sprayed some on the swingarm bushings hoping they'll come out with just a hacksaw slit and not put up a fight.

20220307_135339.jpg20220307_135402.jpg

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It was a bit therapeutic to turn a large part of that nut to dust though, even if it wasn't exactly quick or easy.
 
Feels good I bet. If that bushing could slide towards the clean part of the axle then everything off that way, might be able then to get the nut off.
 
ballbearian said:
Feels good I bet. If that bushing could slide towards the clean part of the axle then everything off that way, might be able then to get the nut off.
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I'm not sure if I understand.

20220307_135339.jpg
The 'collar' is frozen in place holding the seal and passenger peg mount against the pivot bolt head.

I'll need to remove that grease zerk and clean the grease out of the pivot bolt then with that end up I'll fill it with Deep Creep and check it again in a few days. If the Deep Creep I already sprayed on it doesn't do the job.

I've been looking at replacement collars and bushings, I'll make my own before I pay those prices. I'll probably make a few sets and list them for sale
 
My bad. I was thinking that was another nut, not the bolt head. Duhhh. It all has to come apart sliding away from the head of bolt. I know you want to save the bolt and bush if possible. Definitely remove zerk and use a twist bit to drill out the old grease. If it was me, I'd find another nut from auto parts store to protect the threads and hammer there with the bolt head down in a piece of pipe big enough for the head but small enough to support the bracket. probably 3-4" would be enough. Thick wall steel pipe nipple from the plumbing dept. of the right diameter. Heating the bushing with a torch would help. I think you are in the home stretch, just need the right set up.
 
I've got another pivot bolt that I plan on using, I'll tap the ends for useable grease zerks.

I agree heat will do the trick but I'll give the Deep Creep a few days, it's good stuff.
 
At least you can get the Deep Creep between the bushing and the axle. Man those threads were so solid corroded, no wonder the oil wouldn't penetrate.
 
I agree, and this thing was super tight too, I thought maybe the nut was driven past the threads if you know what I mean.

I've been talking with Hondaman on SOHC4, and he agrees that these bikes had rubber swingarm bushings from the factory, well mine seems to have bronze bushings now. I wonder if the PO upgraded then overtightened the swingarm?

I'll get everything cleaned up and measured, maybe I can reuse what I've got by some miracle?
 
The swingarm bushes actually rotate in their travel arc on the outside of the collars....
Neither the collars nor the "pivot" shaft/bolt rotate or move at all once the assembly is properly torqued...
It is possible to over tighten the "pivot" shaft/bolt beyond the specified amount, but doubtful you could compress the hardened steel collars to the point of "jamming" the swingarm...
Collar OD and length are the critical specs....As is bushing ID......

Please phone for clarification if necessary
 
Alan F. said:
I agree, and this thing was super tight too, I thought maybe the nut was driven past the threads if you know what I mean.

I've been talking with Hondaman on SOHC4, and he agrees that these bikes had rubber swingarm bushings from the factory, well mine seems to have bronze bushings now. I wonder if the PO upgraded then overtightened the swingarm?

I'll get everything cleaned up and measured, maybe I can reuse what I've got by some miracle?
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I gotta disagree, the 160 swingarm bushings were metal, not rubber. I've owned several of them over the years (own two of them at present) none of them had rubber bonded bushings in the swing arm pivot.
 
66Sprint I agree, it's similar to a wheel axle tightening wheel spacers against the inner races of wheel bearings with the center collar between wheel bearings.

This swingarm would move if you forced it, but it was far too tight to move under its own weight.

Mike, this my first and only CB160, in the parts fiches I've never seen a rubber swingarm bushing, but people keep bringing them up. I'll believe it when I see it. Until then I'm in total agreement that these bronze bushings and collars (with grease holes and spiral grooves) are factory original parts.

The only rubberized bushings are for the shocks to attach to the swingarm. Not the same thing by any means.
 
I had a little time this afternoon and headed up to the attic to pull the center stand out of whatever remained of the Evaporust. Apparently the stuff evaporates leaving a thick dark gel that smells similar to molasses, but I didn't taste it.

I spent quite a while removing this slop with an old toothbrush and hot running water, then I wire brushed the stand and set it aside, I'll paint it black again when the weather warms up.

Then I rinsed the residual dried Evaporust from another pile of small parts, these I'd removed from the solution a while ago, before it evaporated into goo. I gave the parts a light scrub and dried them. I'll wipe on some CorrosionX tomorrow and get some photos.
 
I was able to remove the remaining stuck pivot collar from the pivot bolt today, freeing the left passenger peg mount. I took both passenger peg mounts and swingarm home and cleaned them up. I've got the pivot collars and NOK seals soaking, later I'll clean them up & test fit them to the swingarm. Maybe they'll be ok to reuse.

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I brought the frame & forks home this afternoon. Frame needs cleaning & it's gonna rain tomorrow. Since I can't fit the frame in the kitchen sink I'll do the next best thing and give it a good scrubbing out in the rain.
 
Alan F. said:
I brought the frame & forks home this afternoon. Frame needs cleaning & it's gonna rain tomorrow. Since I can't fit the frame in the kitchen sink I'll do the next best thing and give it a good scrubbing out in the rain.
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There's always the shower.
 
I had honestly considered it, but I hate cleaning the shower.

Unfortunately I mistook a weather forecast that said 100% chance of rain, 1/4" to 1/2" expected.... to mean that it'd actually rain today. Instead it's just overcast with enough intermittent drizzle to wet the pavement but not wash away any salt.

If the salt were gone and I was out riding, I wouldn't even put my rain gear on, but I'd bring it.
 
On-call strikes again, there goes my Saturday.

But I did solve the mystery of the overtightened swingarm pivot. There were only NOK seals on the outside ends of the two pivots, Bob the PO must have lost the other two seals! Thankfully I've got some that'll work.


Edit, nope only 2 needed:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/h...-no-year/cl160-a/cb-cl160swingarm-rear-fender

Edit: I suppose that's why the bottom of the frame is so dirty. It's designed to poop grease out the swingarm pivots beneath the center of the bike.
 
I've been organizing my parts purchased over the off season. I've located the used swingarm pivot bolt and plan to drill & tap both ends for new grease zerks, the hole in the CB160 pivot bolt is about .175"
Zerk size 1/4-28 with 7/32 will be the way to go. I'll stop in at my local non-chain hardware store & see what they've got.
 
I've had the 160 frame out on the back porch for a few weeks, I guess hoping that eventually a good day of rain would wash 57 years of crud out of its nooks and crannies, but it wasn't working out that way. The red paint was showing lots of dark crud in all of the usual areas, so armed with a small stack of business card sized scrapers fashioned from a plastic milk jug I set about scraping off the heavy accumulation at the bottom engine mounts & swingarm pivot. After that I sprinkled the frame with water and set to scrubbing the whole thing down with a coarse but soft plastic brush and some cheap dish washing liquid then gave it a rinse. Then I made my way around the whole frame twice more with the same soap and a toothbrush before rinsing again, then unsatisfied I made my way around the frame two more times with another toothbrush, which after all that scrubbing rinsed fairly clean...which I took as a good indicator that the frame was as clean as it was going to get, so I gave it another good rinse and set it in a breezy spot to dry.
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Thanks! I might hit a few visible spots with polishing compound before giving it a coat of CorrosionX later this week.
 
Actually I just took a look at it, out there with the motion detector spotlights on and its still got a fair amount of gloss on it.
 
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