Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160

Your lucky on those, as they look decent. As you have noticed NOS new are rare if not impossible to find, so they are very expensive to buy. When I did my CL175 Sloper they used the same filters and I paid about $250 US for a new set.
Questionable to rebuild them with foam as they are not the same afterwards and could cause running issues.
 
I've received no word from this guy with the air filters yet, I guess he's busy or or maybe he doesn't need $50... I'll stand by.

My Scorpion AGM battery arrived this morning from batterystuff.com unlike the last one I ordered a few years ago this one was delivered to my door and I didn't have to go pick it up at the P.O.

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And good news, I tested my "as-is non-functional" horn with it and it works. I just need to keep adjusting the 'volume adjust' screw until the correct tone is found, but I don't have any idea what it's supposed to sound like. Can anyone recommend a YouTube video to refer to?
 
I'd just keep adjusting it until you get the clearest, loudest sound from it. When they're slightly off they usually sound somewhat muffled and flat.
 
Alan F. said:
I've received no word from this guy with the air filters yet, I guess he's busy or or maybe he doesn't need $50... I'll stand by.

My Scorpion AGM battery arrived this morning from batterystuff.com unlike the last one I ordered a few years ago this one was delivered to my door and I didn't have to go pick it up at the P.O.

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He was looking for the clamps. He found them. He wants to know which: FedEx for $25 or UPS flat rate.
 
Alan, When you get the air filters a good soaking in a PH neutral detergent and water will break down the harder crud and dirt on the outside of the filter media. An old toothbrush used gently to just move lightly over the media folds helps too. A good hot water rinse for a minute and shake out excess water then blow out gently from the inside with an air wand and compressor. I then heavily spray the whole canister and media folds with a brake cleaner which is non chlorinated (important) to soak well. Again shake and then blow inside out with the air wand to evaporate the remaining crap and you have a pretty new filter media again.

Trick here is being gentle and not over soaking the detergent more than 15-20 mins before a light cleaning with the old toothbrush.... or mother in laws if no other available. :glee:
 
Request received and paid! It was a little more than we'd hoped but what else can I do, they simply don't exist anymore... So for about 1/3 the price of the perfect set I spotted on ebay, these are on their way.
Thanks very much for reaching out and following up Ballbearian!

I'll follow up with my 3d printing friend, maybe he's found something too.
 
Alan F. said:
Request received and paid! It was a little more than we'd hoped but what else can I do, they simply don't exist anymore... So for about 1/3 the price of the perfect set I spotted on ebay, these are on their way.
Thanks very much for reaching out and following up Ballbearian!

I'll follow up with my 3d printing friend, maybe he's found something too.
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Glad it finally worked out. Your quest on the old forum prompted me to query the small FB group on your behalf.

By 3d printing, are you talking filter elements or side covers?
 
Here are the two air filters from my CL77 project that I cleaned yesterday with the method I described less the brake cleaner, as these are pretty clean overall. It was amazing how much dirt was in that first wash rinse though. They are air drying presently, so a little darker in colour than they will be once they are completely dry and ready to reuse again.

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Looks good. How many times do you think they could be cleaned? I suppose it depends on any irreparable damage to the paper.
 
Flyin900 said:
Here are the two air filters from my CL77 project that I cleaned yesterday with the method I described less the brake cleaner, as these are pretty clean overall. It was amazing how much dirt was in that first wash rinse though. They are air drying presently, so a little darker in colour than they will be once they are completely dry and ready to reuse again.

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I wonder if an ultrasonic with just water or maybe a touch of some woolite would work too.
 
I think I'd try that with a filter that is damaged past the point of use. I'd hate to come back and find an ultrasonic cleaner full of paper-pulp oatmeal.
 
Alan F. said:
I think I'd try that with a filter that is damaged past the point of use. I'd hate to come back and find an ultrasonic cleaner full of paper-pulp oatmeal.
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That would be a bit overdone. I may try it for 5 min. at a time with one that is not so rare first. I have a used one for my Benly 150 and one from my C200 that could be Guinee pigs.
 
Alan F. said:
I've received no word from this guy with the air filters yet, I guess he's busy or or maybe he doesn't need $50... I'll stand by.

My Scorpion AGM battery arrived this morning from batterystuff.com unlike the last one I ordered a few years ago this one was delivered to my door and I didn't have to go pick it up at the P.O.

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I have been using the Scorpion AGM's in all my bikes for the past 6 or 7 years now. Have never had a problem with them
 
Back in the day, my friend and I both washed our CB175 air filters in washing up detergent, then left them in our respective parents airing cupboards ( hot water tank ) for a week or so until dried. Ran the bikes on open inlets in the interim. Oddly enough, with no effect on performance that I can recall, apart from the intake roar.
 
I've read that it's 'easy' to adjust these carburetors to run Unifoam, cheap pods or K&N pods but it's all hearsay until one has been through it. I'm inclined to keep things all Honda on this bike if possible, I won't regret it later.
 
I'm hoping to spend some time this afternoon with this project. Front fender should be done in the Evaporust. I've picked up a small used coffee maker that I'll use to heat and filter the solution as I transfer it into a narrower but deeper pan to soak the rear fender one section at a time.. Several members have been urging me to heat up the Evaporust so it'll work faster, after this amount of time and use I think this stuff could really use the performance boost, and I'm sick of waiting for it to work slowly.
 
Ok some long overdue photos of the internal workings of this old horn. You can see the shiny chrome slotted head adjustment screw with its rusty coil spring, notice the adjust detents along the underside of the head. They lock one position in quite positively and won't allow any drift. I've gotten this working with my newly delivered Scorpion AGM battery and adjusted the screw quite a bit tighter but I'm not happy with it yet.

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The simple operation of these horns has always been a fascination for me, my Dad and I did this very thing to quite a few back in the day. The components look complex to a degree but the operation is so basic, and the fact that the parts survive that long and are still adjustable and remain functional is pretty cool.
 
Those horns always sound different on the bike for some reason or even mounted as close as possible to the way they are on the bike. Not a Honda but I moved the horns on my BMW 1150RT to install a real electronic cruise control .... nasty, nasty bit of work .... anyway the horns now sound different and not in a real good way.
 
I put a pair of car horns on a BMW R1100R many years ago, and discovered that when I tooted at someone they would look around and never see me. The quick look and no reaction or change in what they were doing. I put the standard horn back on and got more reactions. Maybe those drivers were looking for an oncoming Pontiac and didn't see one?
 
I found some time to strip the frame of most of the remaining parts, good news the wiring harness tag says 1965 so it's official despite the high serial number.

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Box o parts:

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And I figured out where the original horn went...

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Should look like this:

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I can't quite imagine how 'Ol Bob managed that, but there must be a story and I'm sure alcohol was involved. I'll figure out some alternate mounts.

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I couldn't budge the swingarm pivot nut and wound up slipping my 24mm socket (22mm?) off the nut whilst trying with an 18" cheater pipe. I think Bob may have never greased the pivot and just overtightened it when things got a little worn. The swingarm has a few inches of travel, but it's tight and moves with a slight crunch just like the steering bearings did. I sprayed on some Seafoam Deep Creep and will give it a few days before I go back there with some heat. I'd really rather not have to replace the nut but since I've already galled the hex slipping a 12 point socket (yes lesson learned) on it, I guess shopping for bushings and pivot are on my list.

I've got a pile of parts to clean up though, looks like this thing was put away muddy.
 
Alan,

The outer hex nuts are usually dirt cheap and worth picking up from a supplier. Usually in the $5 US range for the nut and it's nice and shiny. The head of the outer bolt can be wire wheeled nice and shiny and coated with a few layers of clear coat to resist any rust issues.
 
I'm mostly worried about the condition of the pivot bolt. Those bushings could be steel for all I know, and without being greased often/ever they could be rusted to the pivot bolt. That will make for a tough extraction. I've found a NOS pivot bolt & nut and a kit of reproduction phenolic bushings, all 6 pieces.

I'll eventually get the existing pivot out and i'll measure it carefully. I'm not sure if I'll be able to reuse it at this point. But whichever bolt I do use, I'll tap the ends for proper grease fittings.
 
Are those rubber bushings? If so, then a limited range of motion is right. There are times to break out the 1/2" impact, especially on a naked frame.
 
Alan F. said:
But whichever bolt I do use, I'll tap the ends for proper grease fittings.
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Alan, the truth is you'll grease it well before assembly and you'll never let it get to the point that l' Bob did so you don't have anything to worry about. I greased the bronze bushings and pivot bolt/sleeve when I put my 450 swingarm together over 3 years ago and before we went to the mountains late last year I pumped more grease in it, and it oozed out around the bolt head, the nut on the other side and both caps over the bushings as well, so a little goes a long way and it only moves about 20% of a full rotation anyway. Do like me - never ride it in the rain and keep it stored in a decent garage and you won't have trouble with it in the future. The situation you inherited was sheer neglect for a very long time.
 
ballbearian said:
Are those rubber bushings? If so, then a limited range of motion is right. There are times to break out the 1/2" impact, especially on a naked frame.
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From the description I'm reading at Partzilla and at CMSNL yes they're rubber swingarm pivot bushings.

Why does this sound like a good idea?

I could probably make my own parts for a lot less than I could buy them, but what's rule #1?
No side projects!
$108 for the 6 piece bushing kit, NOS pivot bolt and nut seems steep, but it'd be fast.


Thanks AD, sometimes I feel like I should be doing a more thorough job and it bothers me a little.
 
I've been reading about rubber swingarm bushings and I'm not convinced they're going to have a place on this bike, I just don't like the idea. I'm not going racing but "rubber swingarm bushings" sounds like a euphemism for bad handling.

I'm hoping the pivot and collars will be useable.

I wire brushed the center stand & rear brake stay & put them in to soak with the battery box and the remaining hardware. The fenders are out of the bath, I'll let them dry for now, later I'll give them a hot water bath and attack with rubbing compound for a few days, then more hot water followed by CorrosionX.

I should also get the brake arms and springs in to soak too before the Evaporust is completely spent or it evaporates. I think I'm back down to one gallon now from the two I started with.

I'm considering paint for the centerstand, I've got some satin black that would help it to disappear. I'm not 100% on this, I'll have to think about it.
 
You are right. You have a better bushing set up than the rubber used on smaller bikes. Even if you have to have some brass sleeve bushings made, I would stick with what you got.
 
I understand the 160s had rubber bushings as well, and when the 175 came out with its solid bushings, they were a superceding part for 160s too.

If I can get away with just bushings I'll use these:

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I'll measure them and make a drawing too.
But they have a kit with collars too for a few dollars more, and at that point I'm tempted toward a NOS pivot bolt and a new nut to replace the one I slipped a 12 point socket off of today.

Fyi, Honda gave the Grom rubber swingarm bushings too.
 
Alan F. said:
Press fit bushing ordeal? Please tell me more.
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CT90's, my CA95, CA77 all rubber interference fit. The bushings have an outer steel sleeve bonded to the rubber and an inner steel sleeve also bonded, so essentially one piece. The fun is when the interference fit is also rusted in place and even with a proper press, sometimes the only way to remove is to destroy with a hole saw thru the rubber then sawsall through the outer bushing shell and collapse it to remove.... are we having fun yet?
 
Air filters arrived about an hour ago, very well packed and in good used condition. The pair were $50 + $25 shipping. I couldnt buy one for that so I ponied up quickly. I'll have to stick the rubber back onto one but that'll be fine, clamps included too.

Thanks to Ballbearian for doing the legwork reaching out to the Facebook 160 group for me, you'll get to ride this bike if the opportunity arises.
 
I took a ride by storage earlier this afternoon to spend some quality time with that swingarm pivot, my 1/2" drive manual impact and a 2-1/2 lb. hammer. No new results to report. I applied more Seafoam deep creep and will try to get out there again soon. The center section of the pivot bolt seems to be rusted in place inside the frame tube, I'm unable to turn the bolt or the nut at present.

I'm considering drilling that center tube for a grease fitting before I reassemble, does anyone else think that'd be a good idea? It'd sure make it easier to get some Deep Creep in there where it's needed.
 
Alan F. said:
I took a ride by storage earlier this afternoon to spend some quality time with that swingarm pivot, my 1/2" drive manual impact and a 2-1/2 lb. hammer. No new results to report. I applied more Seafoam deep creep and will try to get out there again soon. The center section of the pivot bolt seems to be rusted in place inside the frame tube, I'm unable to turn the bolt or the nut at present.

I'm considering drilling that center tube for a grease fitting before I reassemble, does anyone else think that'd be a good idea? It'd sure make it easier to get some Deep Creep in there where it's needed.
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I looked at your frame photo again. The greases nipple is press fit/not threaded and you could pry with a knife edge or vise grips to remove it, then with a twist bit remove old rust/grease so you could get the penetrating oil where it needs be. Also, by saying impact, I was referring to an electric, either 3/8 battery or a 1/2" because letting it rattle for 5 seconds, at a time after a squirt of oil will drive, with the shock waves, the oil in deeper. Heat is also a useful adjunct here. After you get the nut then work on the bolt.
 
That's a good plan thank you. Ive removed this type of grease nipple before, they're just pressed in place lightly. I wonder how deep those center bores and outlets go? Do they only go to the collars or do they also grease the frame tube too?

As for the impact, I'm just using what I've got. It'll give eventually.
 
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