Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160

I've used Turtle Wax Chrome polish for years, with good results. Mostly I wear nitrile gloves and just stick my finger in the polish and then rub the part with my fingers and hand. Then wipe it down. Works for me.

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Thanks 12ozPBR and Wentwest.
I'll keep CLR away from zinc plating if I use it at all.

I'm thinking now about Evaporust, I can use and reuse it, probably $25 worth will handle the whole bike.

I was looking into spray waxes for aftercare, but I decided to skip the wax and silicone in favor of using CorrosionX. There was a member on SOHC4 years back that I think was a retired aircraft mechanic, he used to build custom bikes and always recommend it. https://www.corrosionx.com/collections/aviation-and-milspec/products/corrosionx-aviation
It's the one in the red can, I picked up the trigger bottle, not cheap but it should perform. It'll do the job after Evaporust, and I can spray it on every connection in the electrical system too. It's clear and not water soluble.

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Alan F. said:
A quick trip to CMSNL revealed that these bikes use the same A and B spokes for both front and rear wheels. CL models too. I'm surprised.

I've pulled the trigger on a pair of NOS A spokes and nipples, by the time I'm ready for them they should be here.
Click to expand...
The 2 spokes missing are heads in with a more acute angle. Did the heads fail? If so you may have a flat spot in rim. Nipple torque, as found, may also be a clue to what happened. Head fatigue failure may pop up again and if so then do all 9 of that 1/4 of the wheel (all heads in that side). If the spokes were bent then maybe just sheared nipple, no biggy. I've beat out flat spots and wiggles, these rims are pretty tough.
 
Thank you, I didn't notice any flat spots yesterday, if I get out there today I'll mark the other seven on that quarter of the wheel for closer inspection. I'll put both wheels on my truing stand and make some notes before disassembly.

That wheel did have some variation in the tone that the spokes would sound when struck, it was all over from low to high. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a flat spot but are there any other ways that spokes can become loose in one area and eventually tighter on the opposite side like that?

I think 'Ol Bob was a Hooligan with a capital H, jumping curbs and flying off loading docks! Brap-Brap!
 
It dawned on me today while on another forum that I never did make sure to find neutral before trying the kick start and thinking the engine was stuck. I'll remember to have a look at that if I get out there later today.
 
I havent seen him on line for a while but member Cliff kalch ,May not be spelled right, had 6 160s and a ton of spare parts. Last time he was on he said he was selling out and asked if anyone needed any thing. I bought some CA 160 parts from him . A great guy.
You might contact and see if he as any parts. Cliff 352-494-7098. [email protected] You can tell him I suggested you contact him if you like.

Bill H
 
Thanks Bill. I'm hoping all I'll need are some CL control cables, grips and tires, but you know how it is.
I'll give him a ring later this week, what's his location?

Area code looks like Florida.
 
No pics in this update, sorry.

I've just finished taking the wheels apart, I think the spokes will all be ok, I'll get a better view of them after Evaporust.

Both rims are stamped near the valve stem hole, inside and out with D.I.D. and along the lip of both sides of both wheels there are no markings at all.
With a ruler the width on both is 1-9/16" so they're 1.6" width or WM1.

The 18" front wheel from a 91-08 CB250 Nighthawk is the same size and also drilled for a drum brake, but they are more modern and have stamped markings on the side. Maybe someone finds this in a search someday when searching for an alternate 36 spoke wheel, they're identical.
 
Good news, I dug out the shifter and took it a few times through the gears and back down while turning the countershaft sprocket a little this way and that to simulate rocking the bike.
But the kick start still isn't turning the engine.
I wonder if the clutch needs to be disengaged to allow the kicker to turn the engine? I'm perusing manuals now.
 
Excellent progress Alan.
I hope you can install the drive chain and put it in 3rd? and rock the bike back and forth after the Seafoam,if possible;it could free the pistons up after a good soak.
 
Well it's not just a matter of installing the drive chain anymore, engine was out when I first picked it up, now the tires are off and rims are all apart for cleanup. I'll be filling the cylinders with Seafoam Deep Creep and giving that some time to work.
I'll get that alternator cover off and put a wrench on the crank, just gently to see what happens.
 
I've searched again for a wide, shallow container to soak rusty rims in and settled on a 20" plastic water heater drain pan, it's 2-1/2" deep so may be fine for these wheels in one go maybe not. I'll plug the pan's drain fitting and will most likely silicone in an inverted dish or bowl in the center to take up volume.
Best deal including shipping was online for under $12 and it should be here in a few days. This should be good for wheels up to 19" which is the max on any of my bikes.

I plan to hit the inside of the rims with a wire wheel then soak the rims in Evaporust with a heat pad under the pan to keep things active while I soak the spokes and nipples in other containers. I'll start this process after the CorrosionX arrives so I can apply it to the de-rusted parts and not worry about flash rust for a few years.
 
Alan F. said:
Well it's not just a matter of installing the drive chain anymore, engine was out when I first picked it up, now the tires are off and rims are all apart for cleanup. I'll be filling the cylinders with Seafoam Deep Creep and giving that some time to work.
I'll get that alternator cover off and put a wrench on the crank, just gently to see what happens.
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I understand Alan.
I just wanted to mention that the alternator will give you a certain amount of 'purchase' to break the pistons free;I've had the most success with rocking the bike while in gear,imo.I know 'it's a work in progress' and you're enjoying getting that beauty in condition.
 
Thanks!

I took a few minutes this evening to get out to this bike with a can of Seafoam Deep Creep recommended by SOHC4 members calj737 and Flyin900 in another thread about unsticking/freeing a 750 engine.


After removing both plugs I gave a 6 second blast into each of the cylinders, then threaded both plugs ~halfway in, the threads seemed surprisingly good. Then I broke the alternator cover screws loose with my trusty #3 Philips and a few taps from a nearby 17mm wrench, all 3 gave an immediate "crack" breaking free cleanly. I tipped the engine to the right hand side and propped it up with the Seafoam can while I took the 3 screws out and tapped the cover once with the rubber covered screwdriver handle breaking the cover loose from its gasket in one go.
With a 14mm wrench on the rotor bolt I leaned on the wrench a little, mind you the cylinder head is just propped up with the edge of the Seafoam can under a cooling fin....and the wrench began to move. Slowly I turned it 90 degrees then back 180 and 180 forward again! Pleased with that I wiped the oil off the alternator cover and the engine cover and screwed it back into place to keep the oil in. Then I turned the engine upright and tried the kick start with my hand, and the engine turned bubbling Seafoam Deep Creep bubbles past the loosely threaded right hand spark plug and puffing air past the loosely threaded left plug!

We've got an unstuck engine!
 
Alan F. said:
Thanks!

I took a few minutes this evening to get out to this bike with a can of Seafoam Deep Creep recommended by SOHC4 members calj737 and Flyin900 in another thread about unsticking/freeing a 750 engin


After removing both plugs I gave a 6 second blast into each of the cylinders, then threaded both plugs ~halfway in, the threads seemed surprisingly good. Then I broke the alternator cover screws loose with my trusty #3 Philips and a few taps from a nearby 17mm wrench, all 3 gave an immediate "crack" breaking free cleanly. I tipped the engine to the right hand side and propped it up with the Seafoam can while I took the 3 screws out and tapped the cover once with the rubber covered screwdriver handle breaking the cover loose from its gasket in one go.
With a 14mm wrench on the rotor bolt I leaned on the wrench a little, mind you the cylinder head is just propped up with the edge of the Seafoam can under a cooling fin....and the wrench began to move. Slowly I turned it 90 degrees then back 180 and 180 forward again! Pleased with that I wiped the oil off the alternator cover and the engine cover and screwed it back into place to keep the oil in. Then I turned the engine upright and tried the kick start with my hand, and the engine turned bubbling Seafoam Deep Creep bubbles past the loosely threaded right hand spark plug and puffing air past the loosely threaded left plug!

We've got an unstuck engine!
Click to expand...

Alan,Man..
What a Deal you got on That CB160,plus the engine is spinning free ! :biggrin: (y) (y)
 
I'll have to get that old oil out of there ASAP and run a compression test next. I've got a folding ladder and a stout ratchet strap to hang the engine on.

I'm very pleased! I wonder if it still has good compression are after all this time?

The FSM says it should have between 128 and 149 psi.
 
Alan,
Did the PO tell you if he ever ran the engine when he did the overbore?
That top end may need to be run-in/broken in before it will have increased compression;it may still be tight in there..
 
I understood that his friend the original owner had the overbore done, then sold it to the PO back in 1966. I'm not sure how many miles you can put on a CB160 in one year, but it has 18,748 now.

I'd probably want to re-torque the head, set cam chain tension, then set valve clearances. Unless that doesn't sound kosher to anyone.
 
I've got the useless HF compression tester that I bought 15 years ago and never used. I guess I'll have to do better than that.

Is the Innova Compression Tester from Advance Auto any good?
 
I just picked up some CL control cables. I got an OEM gray Speedometer cable, and an MC hi-bar gray cable set from Rusty Riders. I'll have a look at the existing rear brake cable before deciding to replace it, there aren't many out there and they're pricey.
 
Great news on the engine Alan, makes this deal even better than it already was. No experience with that compression gauge myself
 
I have one of those HF compression gauges. It's pretty poor, but you do at least get some info from it. The compression figures on mine seen awfully low compared to other gauges I've borrowed, but the thing does give me some comparative data, left versus right cylinder.

Never thought of hanging the engine from a step ladder. just a hook in the ceiling, but then the thing is hanging there for as long as it takes me to get it ready to reinstall. At least with a ladder you can move it to another corner of the garage. Next time I'll try it.

Thanks for your reporting. It's good to know that all over the world there are fools like me who are messing around in their sheds and garages, trying to bring neglected Hondas back from a near certain death.
 
wentwest said:
I have one of those HF compression gauges. It's pretty poor, but you do at least get some info from it. The compression figures on mine seen awfully low compared to other gauges I've borrowed, but the thing does give me some comparative data, left versus right cylinder...
Click to expand...

Yes, those HF compression testers are designed in such a way that you’re pumping up that long hose every stroke, which adds significantly to the cylinder volume on a small engine when testing it. That results in abnormally low readings on the gauge.
 
Compression tester readings will be pretty much useless, right now. Until it's been run and brought up to temperature a few times, to free some possibly stuck rings, you won't get a meaningful reading anyhow.
 
I'm with you Mike, besides kicking at an unmounted engine is a waste of energy and probably a bad idea.

Tonight I took wentwest's advice from a few days ago and drained the oil as best I could. Again with the engine out of the frame I had to get creative.
I set up my aluminum ladder but couldn't find any ratchet straps and had to improvise. I found two coiled cables I used to use for locking up my old bike and decided to give those a try.
A picture would be worth a thousand words right now. Suffice it to say that I draped one cable over a 2x4 on the top step and stuck the end loops on the left and right of the top motor mount. Same with the rear mount but one step lower. The engine was sitting perfectly upright, hovering about one foot (30cm) above the ground. I was able to twist the 2x4 90 degrees to raise the front of the engine before removing the rear drain plug. I let the cold oil run until it was a slow drip then levelled the engine again and more oil ran out, rear drain plug back in I repeated the process with the front drain plug until empty the put the drain plug back in. I'll have to find some new sealing washers for these drain plugs.

While I had the engine suspended I cranked the kickstarter many times with the plugs removed. I noticed that it was getting very easy to turn with the kicker now, much less notchy than it was the other day. I also noticed some light brown muddy Seafoam Deep Creep beginning to ooze out of the #1 left side exhaust port, there was some wetness at #2 also but it was just clear. So #1 was the stuck side, and now I've gotten some Deep Creep past the exhaust valve. I didn't even look at the intake, that would remain dry right?
Next time I'll shoot some Deep Creep on the valvetrain and both cylinders before giving it a few minutes of turning with the kicker. I was surprised at how far around that kickstarter turns, it's active from about 11 o'clock counterclockwise until about 5 o'clock.

And just as Wentwest said, this wasn't clean oil although what was on the dipstick was. All of the crud had sunk to the bottom. And I only removed about 3/4 of a liter of dirty oil. Happily I found no water in there.
The manual says this engine only holds 1 liter of oil, and some will remain in there after draining, likely more stayed than normal with a cold engine and all of that crud in there. At least there'll never be much waste oil to get rid of.

My 21" water heater pan arrived while I was out, I think I'll Krazy glue something over the drain hole and clamp it with some blocks before beginning.
It just might be deep enough to submerge one of these rims in but I haven't put the two together yet.
I think it's probably too cold in storage for the Evaporust to do its thing, I may have to do this part at home. Stay tuned!
 
That'd be the solution in my own shop, but not where I'm working on this one unfortunately.

Is there a recommended product to flush an engine with, and is it safe to do so with crud at the bottom this way?

Otherwise I'm planning to clean up the outside of this engine and set it aside until I have a clean, rust free roller to bolt it back into.
 
I had serious lust for a CB 160 in junior high way back when, but I scored a CL77 (305) in high school a few years later. Still one of my favorite twins, (CB160) from Honda all these years later. I now have owned a CL450 (ten years) and always put Marvel in the cylinders and I have changed the oil like 6 times despite only getting it running in the last year or so. What a great find, looking forward to seeing it come back from the dead.
 
I actually saw this one posted on CL and was tempted to go make an offer, but it was a busy weekend and a little too long of a drive for me. Plus, I got plenty of projects already.

Nice work, can't wait to see what you do with it.
 
Thanks, what part of Mass are you in?

No progress to speak of today but I did Krazy glue a milk jug cap over the drain hole on my 21" plastic water heater pan. A few more layers of Krazy glue and baking soda and it's solid as well as liquid tight.

I also went out & picked up a gallon of Evaporust and a couple of cheap wire brushes. Tomorrow I'm hoping to start cleaning up those rusty wheels and clean the spokes up.
 
I'm looking at tires.
Stock tire sizes are both 18" 2.5 front and 2.75 rear.

I've found a deal I like for two 2.5's with good load ratings (150-200lbs higher than the bike & me)
& good speed ratings, P rating is 93mph.

Does anyone think it would be detrimental to drop the rear width from the stock 2.75 to a 2.5?

I calculate it as a 9.5% difference.
 
Alan,I think changing from 2.75 rear down to 2.5 width will work ok.
I know how difficult it is to find narrow width 18" street tires.
I usually purchase an IRC NR21 3.00x18 for the rear on my small bike;it's a cheap tire but it works ok.
 
Here they are on Triumphsuper3's CB200 race bike from his thread on HT from 2013-2015, I think they'll be right at home on a CB160.

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Hi Alan it looks like your well on your way with this one and the Deep Creep is a motor saver in most cases.
Great little bikes, as I restored a 1967 CL 175 last year and it now resides in my family room. :lol:
 
Yes, that stuff works fast too, I expected to wait a day not 2 minutes! Now the engine turns without the slightest indication of a tight spot where there initially was. Thanks again for the recommendation.
 
Made another modification to my Evaporust soak pan for the rims, I bought a cheap dollar store oil drain pan with a 16" OD and stuck it down inside the 20" ID water heater drain pan. This should dramatically decrease the amount of Evaporust needed. Unfortunately I don't think the pan is deep enough to completely submerge the rim, I'll have to flip it over at halftime.


My 2 NOS replacement spokes arrived, and so did the 16 oz trigger bottle of CorrosionX, I purposefully avoided their aerosol cans because you can ship a trigger bottle on an airplane... The stuff looks like blue/green 2-stroke oil but smells like solvents and has some tough warnings on the label.20211202_161920.jpg20211202_162454.jpg20211202_163334.jpg


Edit: I'm also pretty stoked, just put in the order for the tires & stuff and a set of tank badges.
 
There's some out of the box thinking and I like it. I love the Evaporust and how well it works for a non toxic rust remover material. I was also able to save the DID rims and spokes on my little bike which was great, as the brand new DID rims while really good, are not the same as the 60's production ones.
The Corrosion X is a new item that I have never heard of here in Canada, so I will look for it locally and if not in the US, as it sounds like a great option to keep rust at bay.
 
Alan F. said:
Thanks, what part of Mass are you in?

No progress to speak of today but I did Krazy glue a milk jug cap over the drain hole on my 21" plastic water heater pan. A few more layers of Krazy glue and baking soda and it's solid as well as liquid tight.

I also went out & picked up a gallon of Evaporust and a couple of cheap wire brushes. Tomorrow I'm hoping to start cleaning up those rusty wheels and clean the spokes up.
Click to expand...

I am down on the Cape, near the 'elbow' so to speak. Good thinking with Evaporust bath, I'm gonna try to rig up something similar!
 
I picked up a 160 a few months ago. Too cheap to not load up in the truck.

Tires were the hardest thing to find. Apparently there are multiple motorcycle tile outlets on line but really they are all the same company just has like 10 different website (all with different pricing too). No one had a 2.5 ribbed front like the original.

Only place I found tires was here.

https://www.mopeddivision.com/search-results-page?q=Kenda

Put a few hundred miles on em and they work great.

Also, if your carbs are beyond repair. Mine had the brass replaced and would not dial in and run right no matter what I did. Bought some cheap new knock off ones off ebay. I was super skeptical but they work really well, at least with my mostly stock set up.

Super fun little blast around time, backroads bike.

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