$200 CM185T

Very nice for $200! Be sure to do all the routine maintenance before running the engine too much.
 
ballbearian said:
Clean oil filter often.
Click to expand...
I checked the oil screen and it was in really bad shape... full of debris. Seems like in 21k miles nobody ever removed the side cover, and I guess the old oil partially solidified cause the sump was full of sludge. I cleaned everything the best i could by hand. No obvious evidence of engine damage. I'm going to run it again with new oil then try checking the screen and sump again after a short period of time. I'll probably do a few oil changes this way. I also got new gaskets and seals on the way so eventually ill freshen up the engine a bit.

Good thing I didn't run it too long
 
I hope you did the centrifugal oil filter spinner also. The owner's manual covers this, also the FSM (factory service manual).

You want to look for shiny fine metal glitter and also small chunks of rubber like stuff from the cam chain tensioner breaking down.
 
Sorry, but I don't see anything other than the oil screen mentioned in the fsm. I looked it over myself and used the search function.

Haven't restarted it, currently sitting in my garage waiting for parts.
Screenshot 2025-11-06 at 17.25.43.png
 
I ordered some small parts from the dealership — an air filter, a few oil seals, and some hardware. It’s been over a week now, and the order still isn’t ready for pickup.

That feels silly when most car dealerships have my parts on the counter within 24 hours. But this particular powersports place seems to take forever, sometimes half a month just to get an order ready.

So I’m wondering: is that actually normal for powersports dealerships, or is mine just slow?
 
ecefour said:
So I’m wondering: is that actually normal for powersports dealerships, or is mine just slow?
Click to expand...
Can't speak to an order from a powersports dealership for a modern bike, but most powersports dealerships don't give a rat's ass about vintage bikes like yours (ours). Surprised they even offered to order the parts at all.
 
ancientdad said:
Can't speak to an order from a powersports dealership for a modern bike, but most powersports dealerships don't give a rat's ass about vintage bikes like yours (ours). Surprised they even offered to order the parts at all.
Click to expand...
I always order online. The inventory system provides a list of what’s available and what’s not. I just provide a list of part numbers i want.

The inventory system appears to be accurate as i always eventually get what i ordered.

Also you’re right, I realize it’s an ancient bike and there’s no money to be made on their end. But at the same time a 5x7 oil seal is not particularly hard to come by lol.
 
ecefour said:
I always order online. The inventory system provides a list of what’s available and what’s not. I just provide a list of part numbers i want.

The inventory system appears to be accurate as i always eventually get what i ordered.

Also you’re right, I realize it’s an ancient bike and there’s no money to be made on their end. But at the same time a 5x7 oil seal is not particularly hard to come by lol.
Click to expand...
Powersports dealers are mostly stocking fast moving consumables the techs will need like oil filters, spark plugs, tires, tubes, common bolt/screw/nut sizes. Special order parts take about a week. Sometimes longer if it's not a common part. Always ask for an ETA.

Buying online is OK, but if you're in a hurry don't fall for the "free shipping over $150" crap. They end up shipping it "ground advantage" a euphemism for "first class" and it takes a week (sometimes longer because it gets routed in the wrong place... speaking from experience and so can others). If you do that, pay the extra $10-$15 for priority mail. It's worth it.

What I do is look up the part numbers on Partzilla or whoever. If it shows quantity on that site then that means a dealer can order it. Just give the dealer the part numbers. Don't have them waste their time looking it up for your bike on the computer. Some will just lie and say they can't get it when you tell them it's an old bike.
 
Update: got her (mostly) reassembled. Here’s a video:


Is the valve noise normal? I know these aren’t exactly known for being quiet haha
 
LongDistanceRider said:
The oil filter screen is all you have with this engine series
Click to expand...
im teaching a couple kids to fix one of these could you pm me the fsm currently we need a key can we just disconnect the key swith and jump it untill we get a key i can aslo get the code from the cylinder if someone can make us one we have the title as well for proof of ownership
 
The clutch slips when I put it in gear. I think my homemade clutch cable might not have enough slack, which could be keeping the clutch from fully engaging. I’ll dig into it tomorrow to be sure.


The bike has almost 22,000 miles, and the previous owner had the clutch cable adjusted all the way out, so I’m guessing the clutch itself is worn out.


If I end up needing a new one, I can get the friction disks from a Honda dealer, but they’re not cheap. What do you all recommend as a good alternative?
 
Sounds like an adjustment problem. Lack of freeplay at the lever may be a problem of improper cable or adjuster settings. New discs won't help.
 
ecefour said:
The clutch slips when I put it in gear. I think my homemade clutch cable might not have enough slack, which could be keeping the clutch from fully engaging. I’ll dig into it tomorrow to be sure.


The bike has almost 22,000 miles, and the previous owner had the clutch cable adjusted all the way out, so I’m guessing the clutch itself is worn out.


If I end up needing a new one, I can get the friction disks from a Honda dealer, but they’re not cheap. What do you all recommend as a good alternative?
Click to expand...
First thing you should do is let us look at what you're describing, clutch adjustments need to be done correctly at the right locations or it can cause slippage even with the correct cable. Clutch cable adjustment doesn't always indicate a worn clutch.
 
IMG_3279.jpegIMG_3286.jpeg

Update:

Well First of all here’s two of our 70s machines next to each other. The 78 honda moped is off the the side out of frame. Somehow the 70s just became the decade

so I introduced a bunch of slack into that clutch cable.

IMG_3283.jpeg

IMG_3284.jpeg

it definitely shifts better. I barely had any tension on it before so I am surprised it worked as well as it did.

But the clutch still has issues once the engine is warm. When I put it into gear and release the clutch lever I can feel it slip before finally catching. When that happens the bike will jerk forward.

But once it’s in gear it won’t slip. If I’m accelerating up a hill for example it’s fine.

Right now I’m using Walmart super tech 10w-40 motorcycle oil. I don’t know if maybe a better oil would help? Would like some advice.

I also replaced a bunch of seals and gaskets. I got most of the gaskets from a cheap kit on eBay. They generally seem to be of acceptable quality.

Initially the exhaust was well sealed, but eventually after a few heat cycles, the bike developed another exhaust leak. You can see it in this picture below.

IMG_3281.jpeg

Not sure if I did something wrong or if I should blame the cheap Chinese exhaust gaskets.

I also took a measurement of the temperature around the base of the spark plug. I know these infrared guns are not the most accurate, but I wanted an idea

IMG_3276.jpeg

I was getting around 260 to 275 F. Does that seem about right?

In other news, I got a new seat on the way. I got a new seat with seat pan with from eBay for $60 shipped. It’s in really good condition so I’m excited for that.

I’d like to get a better quality clutch cable and brake cable. If you have recommendations that’d be great.
 
Last edited:
ancientdad said:
First thing you should do is let us look at what you're describing, clutch adjustments need to be done correctly at the right locations or it can cause slippage even with the correct cable. Clutch cable adjustment doesn't always indicate a worn clutch.
Click to expand...

IMG_3293.jpg
This is what I'm trying to describe. The old clutch cable was at the end of its adjustment range. If I added any more slack, the clutch wouldn’t disengage at all and the lever would go limp. That made me think maybe the clutch plates were worn out — but it’s just as likely the wrong cable was installed.

I’ll admit, I don’t fully know what I’m talking about. All I do know is that with the new cable adjusted per the FSM, the bike shifts fine when cold. But once it gets hot, shifting becomes rough. When I release the clutch, the bike jerks and makes a clunk or some kind of ugly noise. Doesn’t matter if I ease the lever out or dump the clutch, or whether I try to rev match, same result.

I’ve checked the cable tension again when it’s hot. No difference. The issue is consistent and easy to reproduce.

I tried putting it in first while hot, pulling in the clutch, and revving it to see if it creeps it doesn’t. So I don’t think the clutch is dragging. But I'm also no longer confident it's actually slipping.
 
Last edited:
Reduce the amount of case lever free play by 1/2. Harsh shift hot is usually not enough clutch action.
The clunk heard/felt with clutch engagement is likely the chain or rear wheel taking up slack.
 
Update if anyone is out there:

I was able to source a nos oem clutch cable cable for $27. Before installing i removed the clutch cover and disassembled the clutch. All the the disks had plenty of material left (between 3.00 & 2.92mm). I cleaned the disks and soaked them in oil before reassembling. Put everything back together and she shifted great. Put about 30 miles on the bike. Thanks to everyone who suggested it was simply an adjustment/cable issue. I feel silly now.

IMG_3433.jpg

I did a lot of work I never documented here. I'm about $650 deep into this thing. Plus the $200 I paid for it. Plus the $350 i paid to title it. I probably could've bought a functional one for less, but this bike was listed for a month before i bought it. Previous owner said he was ready to scrap it, so i have the satisfaction of knowing i saved this guy from an unholy demise.

This is my first bike i can't wait to ride it more in the spring.

Still waiting on a headlight to come in the mail, and a few other little pieces. Going to install new tires in the spring.

Runs rich at the moment but I will spend more time dialing in the crab when it's warmer.

It's missing the right side battery cover, I'm also looking for a rear rack if anyone wants to sell me these items.
 
Last edited:
Good looking bike. I’ve had 2 cm185t’s. Both 1979’s. First was red, second was blue. They’re interesting and easy to maintain. Try not to rev them high alot because they starve for oil up top a lot and you can end up wiping the cam. They’re my favorite Hondas. 6v charging system. 4 speed bikes with a simple atv carburetor. It doesn’t get much easier than that. Make sure your valve lash is good and have fun
 
Random little fix today. I needed a headlight, the problem is I am missing the stock bracket.

I could buy a bracket and headlight on eBay, but they are expensive, and I am eventually converting this bike to a 12v system anyway. I do not want to invest too heavily in stock hardware in the meantime.

So my solution was to model and 3D print a bracket to hold a cheapo generic headlight in place.

Is it the prettiest thing? No. But it bolts onto the bike without modifications, and that’s good enough for now.


IMG_3557.jpeg

IMG_3556.jpeg

IMG_3555.jpeg
 
I wanted a clock for my bike. So i make this bracket that allows you to mount a Casio F91W.

What do ya'll think? I'm stilling deciding if i like it or not.

IMG_3824.jpgIMG_3825.jpg
 
This was its first real shakedown. I've ridden it low speed before, but opened it up a little more this time. I changed the oil after and it looks great. Didn’t burn a noticeable amount of oil either. I brought my thermal gun and temperatures looked good. The bike didn’t make any strange noises either. No leaks on my garage floor. Fuel filter still looks brand new.

Did great except for one thing: clutch slips in top gear when going up hills. Cable is in adjustment and the oil is high quality Valvoline. It’s not a huge deal right now, but I’m planning on riding it through the entirety of Shenandoah National Park and camping there later this spring, so I’ll likely replace plates and springs before I take it on a 300 mile trip full of hills.

Here’s a list of everything I've had to replace or buy so far to get it to this point:

* condenser
* coil
* points
* regulator
* battery
* various oil seals
* exhaust gaskets
* spark plugs
* petcock
* fuel lines
* airbox assembly
* air filter
* starter solenoid
* flasher relay
* front turn signal mounting bracket assembly
* seat cover
* tires + tubes
* horn
* fuel cap
* front + rear brake switch
* all the cables (clutch, throttle, brake)
* L/R engine cover gaskets
* all the light bulbs
* Battery side cover
* few assorted bushings
* carburetor gaskets and needle valve
* various spade and bullet connectors
* various hardware

probably some other stuff I’m forgetting

There was other work too, like painting various things, cleaning the fuel tank, etc.

Was it worth it? Maybe not on paper, but every time I see this thing I think to myself how awesome it is. Plus I saved it from the junkyard.

Little before and after. Not a night and day difference, but I’m happy with it current state.

1772096768479.png
View attachment 55464E62B2330-03D9-428B-AB3A-677915416B6F_1_105_c.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Nice work, looks so much better and is now fully functional and safer to ride too.
ecefour said:
Did great except for one thing: clutch slips in top gear when going up hills. Cable is in adjustment and the oil is high quality Valvoline.
Click to expand...
But is it actual motorcycle oil? Modern oils have friction modifiers in them that are often not compatible with wet clutches. You want oil that meets JASO-MA or -MA2 to be safe for your wet clutch, modern car oils won't work well. Many of us here use Rotella T4 15w40 diesel oil because it's JASO-MA rated and has a little more zinc in it for our older flat tappet engines, plus it's inexpensive too.
 
But is it actual motorcycle oil?
Click to expand...

Yeah, it’s Valvoline wet clutch oil.

for your wet clutch, modern car oils won't work well. Many of us here use Rotella T4 15w40 diesel oil because it's JASO-MA rated and has a little more zinc in it for our older flat tappet engines, plus it's inexpensive too.
Click to expand...

That’s interesting i’ll give Rotella T4 oil a try next time.
 
ecefour said:
Yeah, it’s Valvoline wet clutch oil.



That’s interesting i’ll give Rotella T4 oil a try next time.
Click to expand...
I use the T6 in every bike I have owned. Menards - $20 a gallon most of the time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom