1985 VF700F

Were you able to get your radiator cleaned out/fixed by that repair place which was recommended ?
I like your shared? shop !
I hope you search & locate a set of 4 NOS carb. rubber manifolds for when you need to remove the carbs,at some point in the future.
Did you attempt to loosen the upper clamps on all 4 of them,while the lower alloy airbox flange is still attached?
I know the clearance around the rubber manifolds/tubes is somewhat limited,but leaving the lower airbox flange attached and solidly tightened at all 4 carbs holds them all in good position(locks them all solidly together)and gives you leverage to push and pull on to remove and install the entire set at once,plus it protects your carb. connectors and keeps the fuel tubes and O-rings in position and keeps them from leaking.

I might recommend using a borescope with the fuel tank completely empty,just to inspect the condition of the inside of your fuel tank;just so you can see.
I hate what rust does to vintage bike tanks and fuel systems;that tank 'may' have some internal tubing with metal filter screens on the ends? The 86'+ VFR750/700's tanks did.
I know a guy in PA. who restores fuel tanks from the inside;his work/the tank is then guaranteed for life,plus he's the best deal anywhere,if needed.

Getting the bank of carbs back on(all held down by the airbox lower flange)is a procedure with the two rear? ones in,then pushing backward hard on that lower airbox flange on the front(I used a large flat-blade screwdriver as a lever to push back)with a(two?)small,thin screwdriver to slide both the lower carb throats down and in.
I polish the edges of the two front carb. spigots castings,which helps to slide them both in.
The old,hard rubber intake manifolds/'tubes' are too difficult because all 4 need to stretch/flex enough to slide/install the carbs;really hoping you'll be able to search/locate a full set of OEM NOS Honda rubber manifolds/tubes.
 
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lol, Bill you’re catching up.

Radiator was cleaned up very nicely and I saw a remarkable change in performance. Still has issues in traffic on a hot day but don’t we all.

I may try going to Honda HP coolant in lieu of the Prestone that’s in there now to see if things improve a bit. After a flush with lots of distilled water, that is to make sure that nothing is mixing, even though I think they’re compatible.

I did a thorough cleaning of the carbs and syncing that vastly improved the low and mid range, especially when cold. I’ll probably sync them again at some point this year, and richen the idle ever so slightly. I hope to never have the carbs back off again, knock on wood.

Next projects for it are steering and wheel bearings, and while I have the front rad off I’ll pull the cams, rockers, bearing tops, and tensioners to make sure there isn’t any undue wear in the front. There’s a clicking in there that I can’t get to go away when cold. Also replace the valve cover gasket which sprung a small leak.
 
I like the Honda's V4's (great design,imo)and think they're awesome machines. (y)
They had camshaft issues on some of the early ones,but they sorted that out in the later ones.

Ed,I think someone must have used plain water mix in your cooling system.. :mad:
Does someone manufacture a special product you can use to soak the engine water jackets with?
Possibly fill up the engine and let it sit in there,then drain all the water passage plugs and really flush it out again to be sure you've got as much out as possible.

Ed, you're jumping from the 'around town' C70, to this VF750F :D !!
 
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There are some radiator cleaner products, but I’m not sweating it too much. It runs fine as long as it’s moving. It will even “tolerate” slow traffic in a hot tunnel as long as it has time to cool down afterwards. I’ve tried to avoid tunnels as much as possible, though. Generally shoot for the GW or Verrazano bridges when I’m coming home from a ride to the west.

So I don’t think there’s any significant blockages in the engine that need further chemical cleaning.

I’ll be doing a distilled water flush, and maybe figure out a way to rig up a small pump to backflush the whole system to dislodge crud.

But, again, big work in front of me is the steering bearings which require removal of the entire front end. Only downer to being in a shared garage is I can’t leave it on the lift very long, so it’ll have to be a one day, max two, project.
 
Shinkos I want to say?

I haven’t looked in awhile, all I remember is they were manufactured in 2021. Should be good for another season, but it might be worth changing them while I’m in there for the wheel bearings
 
Ribrickulous said:
Shinkos I want to say?

I haven’t looked in awhile, all I remember is they were manufactured in 2021. Should be good for another season, but it might be worth changing them while I’m in there for the wheel bearings
Click to expand...
Shinko 712 are good.
I remember the choices were limited with the 16" front wheel.
 
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