1975 CB200 - A work in progress

[MattFromTheInternet]

Hey everyone!

Been a bit since I posted about my 1975 CB200 that I got as my first project bike, figured I'd give some updates, and ask a few questions. I definitely don't think I'm as in over my head as I worried I might be. I've only just recently been able to actually get my hands dirty with it (it's been raining just about about every weekend here since March), but here's what I've done so far:

• Cleaned the gas tank. I just used white distilled vinegar and some screws to get some of the rust loose. I got a hell of a lot of rust out of it, but I'm still not 100% happy with the results. I looked into taking it somewhere to get it looked at, but haven't really followed up.
• New petcock valve, new fuel line, fuel filters.
• New carbs. I had bought two rebuild kits from those guys in Houston, and rebuilt one of them. When I went to do the other, I found it was much less hassle to just find some reproduction carbs and slap those on.
• New spark plugs.
• New ignition key switch/seat lock (they came in the same package, so the same key works both).
• Got a new battery and put it in. And finally, it shows its first signs of life. When I connected everything and turned the key, the headlight and tail light come on, and the high beams work!

Now, here's my issue. I just wanted to see if, when I hooked everything up, and put some gas in the tank, if it would start, and it didn't (surprise surprise). The guy that had this bike before me had made a few mods to it (someone pointed out in the original thread that the exhausts weren't stock, I think they were from a Harley), and one of them was that he removed the electric start altogether, so the kick start is my only other option. So far, nothing. I spent most of today fixing the ignition timing (it was a little out of whack, but the ignition switch point wasn't raising at all, so I cleaned the points and lined it up with the tiny gap. I probably didn't do it perfectly, but I really just wanted to start by getting the bike to actually turn on before I try and get it perfect). After testing it a little and inspecting the spark plugs, they aren't making any spark whatsoever. Not only that, but the turn signals don't work, either, even after replacing the bulbs.

This leads me to believe that it might be a fuse issue? I've been trying to look around and see where all the fuses are. I've found one 15A fuse so far, and it seems to be good (when I remove it, the light doesn't come on when I turn the key. Put it back in, and it does), but I've seen some stuff about there being multiple fuses on these things. But none of the sources I've seen have specified where those fuses might be, and I haven't been able to find anything when looking around at the wires, though I really might just not know what I'm looking at.

Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction here? Is there anything else I should check?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[LongDistanceRider]

You only have 1 fuse on that model.

 

[ancientdad]

he removed the electric start altogether, so the kick start is my only other option.

The better question is, exactly how did he "remove" the electric start? Did he just pull the starter motor out of the engine and put a freeze plug in the hole and think that was all there is to it? Because there's more to it than that, and if he didn't know and/or do the other things necessary to do it right, it can bite you in the ass later.

I probably didn't do it perfectly, but I really just wanted to start by getting the bike to actually turn on before I try and get it perfect

If you're going to set it to just get it running, a simple .014" gap would do. Do you have the FSM so you can read and learn how to adjust the points and timing correctly?

This leads me to believe that it might be a fuse issue?

If you have power to the lights, you should have power to the ignition circuit. My guess is the points need to be properly cleaned and gapped, and the timing set correctly. Did you check for power at the points when you "lined it up with the tiny gap"? Picutres of the things you're working on is the best way to fully convey what you're working on and what you've done.

This picture seems to show that the kill switch knob is missing off the top of the right handlebar switch, which probably means the kill switch is not completing the ignition circuit.

 

[MattFromTheInternet]

You only have 1 fuse on that model.

Ahh gotcha, so it is a wiring issue in that case, I suppose.

 

[MattFromTheInternet]

The better question is, exactly how did he "remove" the electric start? Did he just pull the starter motor out of the engine and put a freeze plug in the hole and think that was all there is to it?

I have no idea. Haven't talked to the guy I bought it from since buying it in February, but I do remember that he inherited the bike from his father when he passed away.

If you're going to set it to just get it running, a simple .014" gap would do. Do you have the FSM so you can read and learn how to adjust the points and timing correctly?

Not on hand, no, but I believe full PDF copies of the service manual are pretty easily available online. I'll have to take a closer look at it.

Did you check for power at the points when you "lined it up with the tiny gap"?

No, I had disconnected the battery when I did it, and I don't have a testing light (though that's probably next on my list of things to get for the bike). I may go out today and get one, take it back apart, and provide pictures this time, provided I get the time.

This picture seems to show that the kill switch knob is missing off the top of the right handlebar switch, which probably means the kill switch is not completing the ignition circuit.

Interesting. So would I need to get a whole new switch in that case? The ignition circuit is the point at which I really don't know what I'm looking at. I may end up having to get a soldering iron/solder, which I'm definitely not opposed to, but I've never been particularly good at soldering when I've tried it on guitars (not sure how much of that would translate). A buddy of mine told me to test around with a multimeter and just see where the circuit ends/isn't closed, but again, I'm just not sure what I'm looking at. I disconnect the battery every time I work on the bike/end for the day, so as to not drain it before I'm ready to use it, but I'll have to see.

 

[ancientdad]

I have no idea. Haven't talked to the guy I bought it from since buying it in February, but I do remember that he inherited the bike from his father when he passed away.


Not on hand, no, but I believe full PDF copies of the service manual are pretty easily available online. I'll have to take a closer look at it.

No, I had disconnected the battery when I did it, and I don't have a testing light (though that's probably next on my list of things to get for the bike). I may go out today and get one, take it back apart, and provide pictures this time, provided I get the time.

Interesting. So would I need to get a whole new switch in that case? The ignition circuit is the point at which I really don't know what I'm looking at. I may end up having to get a soldering iron/solder, which I'm definitely not opposed to, but I've never been particularly good at soldering when I've tried it on guitars (not sure how much of that would translate). A buddy of mine told me to test around with a multimeter and just see where the circuit ends/isn't closed, but again, I'm just not sure what I'm looking at. I disconnect the battery every time I work on the bike/end for the day, so as to not drain it before I'm ready to use it, but I'll have to see.

Get the FSM, look at the wiring diagram, check wire colors and test with a test light or multimeter. Look at the parts fiches to understand how the parts look and work together. The kill switch would be a red knob on the top of the right handlebar switch, pretty obvious it's missing though it could be wired around in the headlight case wiring. We can better help you once you're more up to speed on what you're working on and the parts to check/test, and yes pictures of what you see always help.

Get the FSM here

Honda CB200 _CL200 Service Manual.pdf

drive.google.com

Parts fiches here

Honda CB200T 1975 USA parts lists and schematics

www.cmsnl.com

 

[NeverEverJamToday]

So would I need to get a whole new switch in that case?

In the mean time you can connect the black/white wire that goes to that switch directly to the black wire. Can be done through the headlight. My switch broke while riding and had to do this to get home. This will be "always on " until reversed/switch replaced. Kill it with the key.