1965 CA95

Gman said:
I remember removing washer #13 between inner and outer basket.
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I think the thrust washer goes 1st on the shaft and then the basket. I don't recall the washer you're installing. (I could be wrong..maybe) See the attached pic showing the washer on the shaft, It's a blow up so it's a bit blurry. 

IMG_3430closeup.JPG
 
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Yes thrust washer B is in there but fsm showed thrust washer c. If I install c i cannot put set ring A on
 
I've given this issue some thought, and I don't remember putting that thrush washer on my 62 for the same reason. Perhaps reinstall the original thinner B plate?
I ran my bike down the road and shifted through the gears without issue.
Hopefully Tom will chime in.
 
Hey spokes, my first pic shows no plates or clutch disk installed as washer goes behind outer basket. Do not have plates or disks installed.
Even my son says he feels like he seen me remove washer on tear down. I am second guessing myself now as it won't fit together with one and I bagged and tagged the **** out of everything. Lol
Clutch side together with thicker first disk(aluminum as in fsm) all removed were metal. My cousin says its been a long long time but he doesn't remember anyone messing with clutch. Will see what happens when I get her running
Thanks again everyone
Matt
 
Sorry I got lost in this conversation. I see now what you mean about this washer. So, I dug up some engine pics from CA95 project 5 years ago. No washer. I have a hunch that some washers like the one you're fussing with may be added during certain production numbers. Can't verify that hunch. Please see the two pics I'm speaking of. This engine was a 1964 model year. I also went into my scrap parts to look at clutch basket. I see no imprint or wear marks from the washer in question. IMAG0125.jpgIMAG0126.jpg
 
ancientdad said:
Maybe @ballbearian can help, he's been in these engines too.
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Sorry guys, been pulling all nighters at hospital with wife.
There are variations possible. Keep eye on primary spiral cut gear alignment regarding spacers.
This is what I also learned on clutch stack using various discs and the spacers are factored in.

CA95 clutch upgrade

My chronic slipping clutch is (hopefully) a thing of the past. A couple of years ago a FB friend from Oz, who's done a lot on these Benly's told me about using the 175 racing clutch parts to beef up these, kind of wimpy clutches. Basically by adding an exra set of friction disc and a steel...
www.vintagehondatwins.com www.vintagehondatwins.com

I'll try to keep an eye here in between from the hospital.
 
Ballbearian,

Sir I really appreciate you, but don't worry about checking site for stuff like my question. Take care of wife and family first. I hope wifes condition improves
Again thank you
 
Just wanted to show some appreciation!!!!
From getting fsm and parts manuals, to just being able to post questions and getting awesome responses.
I posted about possible crack in lower end then posted about clutch and both time someone on this group said they have those if I want them, I send pm to him and he gets all my info I ask how much he says shipping cost wait till you receive parts. Get a pm saying parts shipped and tracking #.
Next get a pm stating parts being delivered that day. I get home check out pieces, send a pm thanking for quick turnaround and get message back about taking that money save the stamp and go make a donation!!!
I was totally floored by this act and gesture. Very awesome individual this man is,
Then have another gentleman answer a question i ask as he is dealing with life situations.
Thank you all
Matt
 
So majority of motor back together, here is to hoping I did it all correctly.

20250323_184737.jpg
Going to start tearing handle bars and front end of. Hopefully lots of cleaning and new grease and nothing but new tire and tube up there
 
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Question, no carb engine on bench, cycle kick starter lots of air comes out breather tube on top of motor. Is that normal?
 
Gman said:
Question, no carb engine on bench, cycle kick starter lots of air comes out breather tube on top of motor. Is that normal?
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Hard to be sure, the word "lots" is hard to quantify but you will feel air movement out of the breather tube even when the engine isn't running (but rotating) because both pistons are still moving downward once a revolution and that alone would push air out of the crankcase.
 
ancientdad said:
Hard to be sure, the word "lots" is hard to quantify but you will feel air movement out of the breather tube even when the engine isn't running (but rotating) because both pistons are still moving downward once a revolution and that alone would push air out of the crankcase.
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I think you have just solved my oil dripping out of my exhaust problem on my 62. I pulled my cylinder vent tube to find no trace of oil vapor. I blew into the vent tube (no taste!) to find I could not. I bet I have the upper cylinder gasketing installed wrong.
 
Spokes said:
I think you have just solved my oil dripping out of my exhaust problem on my 62. I pulled my cylinder vent tube to find no trace of oil vapor. I blew into the vent tube (no taste!) to find I could not. I bet I have the upper cylinder gasketing installed wrong.
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Everything is open from the cam area to the bottom via the cam chain tunnel. With dip stick removed you should be able to blow from breather nipple down and out dip stick. Hard to imagine how a backwards top plate gasket could totally block flow down, but maybe it is , or just a plugged breather nipple.
 
Hey everyone, been almost 3 months since rotator cuff surgery still no physical work on bike( 2 totally torn tendons, another with a tear, all repaired. Long head bicep torn off too much damage couldn't reattach) but been looking and ordering what I believe is needed. Well today looking at pictures of motor tear down and I see this bike has whats called adjustment screw in points? Well mines missing. Probably still adjustable without but does anyone have part # or have one they would like to sell
Thank You
Matt
 
Those little adjuster cam screws only come with the points. No part number and often missing. I couldn't find any when I looked awhile back.
 
ballbearian said:
Those little adjuster cam screws only come with the points. No part number and often missing. I couldn't find any when I looked awhile back.
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Thats what I was thinking when I couldn't find part #, I looked at a set of points didn't see it in package.
Thank you for answering
 
The ....004 Dream points and plates, on US models, use that same cam screw. As you said, still possible to use and adjust but less fun.
 
So had shoulder surgery in June, recovery taking way too long. Dr says told you did a lot of damage going to be long recovery.
Well finally feeling like I can tinker a little bit so front wheel was off bike so started cleaning the aluminum 20251207_165215.jpg
 
Impressive results. Was that done strictly with the metal polish cream or were some mechanical means also used?
 
3m gray scratch pad, 1000 grit then 3000 all by hand. Then with drill in vice metal polish. Need the stationary buffer from harbor freight would cut my time down big time
 
So I am looking at front wheel and am wondering to clean center of wheel/hub looks like I will be removing spokes. I have never installed spokes is it as crazy hard as I been told over the years? Or is it something someone with decent mechanical skills and sometimes have patience can do?
 
Gman said:
So I am looking at front wheel and am wondering to clean center of wheel/hub looks like I will be removing spokes. I have never installed spokes is it as crazy hard as I been told over the years? Or is it something someone with decent mechanical skills and sometimes have patience can do?
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It just takes a little patience. However, if your intent is to just clean and not replace. Toothbrush and some gasoline is infinitely faster
 
Lacing is just the first step. You need to true and align the rim to the hub. Then tighten spoke nipples just right. If cleaning the hub is all you need then by all means save yourself the aggravation. I never could lace wheels, my wife, whom is a master seamstress and knits everything from sweaters to socks (side note: I have the greatest socks) laces my rims in less than 30 minutes.
Truing takes another hour. For the absolute novice, avoid lacing and truing. If you must take apart the wheel, source the lacing and truing.
 
If you have the patience to polish the speedo like you did, then I think you have the patience to re-lace a wheel. Why not give it a shot, you will get lots of help here and there are videos out there explaining the process. Take lots of pictures and ask questions here. Worst case you take your wheel to a shop to do it if it doesn't work out.
 
If you decide to pull the spokes, you are going to want a trueing/lacing stand. Do yourself a favor and get one that is a step up from the low end. I bought one to do my CA95 wheels and wound up welding the uprights to the base with some gussets because it was so floppy.
 
Next one I buy will be this style. Partially because it is already setup to use standard diameter dial indicator hardware.
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Well for I do have a dial indicator set up and used to use it all the time. When I had my shop other shops would give me work to find vibrations.
From large truck to cars. Used it on rotors to hubs finding high and low spot match mounting it up for best results unless new or set up lathe to take a few thousands of to make sure face flat. Long story to say I can do that. But turning the correct spokes we will see
 
Front wheel done for now, this stuff is hopefully helping my shoulder, after bike is together and running then I will replace tires. When they are off at that point may remove spokes and do center hub of wheel, but first I want to make sure she is running. Still lots of cleaning and fixing before that happens
 
Rear wheel going to take some work to sparkle
 
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