Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160

Looks like that paint has a lot of potential. WD40 and paper towel rubs oxidation from top of paint pretty good. After that some cleaner polish or paint restorer.
 
I knocked the steering races out of the frame neck, they came out very easily and will go in the spare parts box, maybe someone will use them someday.
Then I applied CorrosionX to a big pile of de-rusted and washed parts that I've been neglecting.
After that I scrubbed the tank knee pads in hot water with a soft brush until the water stayed clean, then I set them out to dry.


It's still early, maybe I'll CorrosionX the frame today after beverage and some down time.


***Oh and good news, I spotted the two exhaust baffles I thought were missing, that's $120 off my mind!
 
Around 5pm I gave the frame a liberal coat of CorrosionX, I sprayed it down and rubbed it in everywhere and added some in between all of the brackets and seams where tubes and brackets meet tubes and left it to soak in overnight. I placed the frame in my work van to keep it out of the rain tonight, with a little luck it'll spend the weekend there.
 
Cleaned up the chaingaurd and and rear shocks this evening, scraped off the heavy accumulation then back to scrubbing with a series of brushes and cheap dish washing liquid. They're as clean as I'm willing to get them. I'm not planning any other work on these shocks, but they're presentable. I'll apply CorrosionX tomorrow.
 
Yup, me too! One part at a time is my method for this one though.

Forks and Fuel tank are the next big hurdles.
 
I just caught up on the thread Alan and your making good progress. When I look at the bare frame it looks pretty identical to the CL175 sloper frame used on my 1968 model. I don't think Honda made many changes between these two series frame wise.

In regard to your past comment about the swing arm bushings, mine were metal in the CL175 frame. I know some people claim to have seen phenolic bushes in that area, yet I have never come across anything other than metal.

Son of CB160 frame.

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I agree, the early 175 was the highest evolution of the design with better forks, chrome fenders & a cylinder head that flowed so much better. Hybrids of the two hold records that still stand.
 
Alan F. said:
I agree, the early 175 was the highest evolution of the design with better forks, chrome fenders & a cylinder head that flowed so much better. Hybrids of the two hold records that still stand.
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The VERTICAL 175 heads flow (breathe) appreciably better than the SLOPER heads....Hence the hybrids.....
 
Hey Alan, just re read this whole thread, now that I'm following in your footsteps, maybe I've learned something about these. May you have quality wrench time!
 
Thank you, I've been dreading a few tasks that really aren't all that complicated. I need to get the lower ball bearing race removed and reinstall the lower triple with the tapered roller kit, and I've got to get the new swingarm pivot bolt drilled and threaded for grease fittings. After that I don't have too many hangups.
 
Hey Alan, I have wondered where this thread was recently. Just use a drift and pound out the lower race from the top. No biggie if it is your first time in changing out ball bearing races for a modern roller bearing. That said, if the races are good then just new ball bearings are a cheaper option. These bikes don't need a roller bearing set up, as there is no weight or stress to worry about on these small models.
 
Thanks, I guess I've taken over a month off from this project haven't I?

I plan to notch the race with a Dremmel cutting wheel then fracture it with a flat blade screwdriver & drop it off the stem. I've already got the tapered roller kit, it should last far beyond another 57 years.

I just hate working in the driveway is all, I'll get to it.
 
Alan F. said:
Thanks, I guess I've taken over a month off from this project haven't I?

I plan to notch the race with a Dremmel cutting wheel then fracture it with a flat blade screwdriver & drop it off the stem. I've already got the tapered roller kit, it should last far beyond another 57 years.

I just hate working in the driveway is all, I'll get to it.
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Don't cut it. They knock off pretty easy. The cups in the frame too. Just go other side with each whack. You already bought a roller kit, right? I'd return it and run loose balls.
 
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Alan, make sure you read and follow the instructions for the roller bearing kit. There is usually a stack height measurement for the lower bearing set on the triple tree stem. The kit usually has a variety of washers with different thickness.
The idea is to get the new bearings at the same height as the original ball bearings with the washers if needed. A failure to do this can end up with slop in the headlight fork ears with an up/down movement allowed on the forks. This is because the triple tree lower bearing placement is different now with the new roller bearing height.
 
Alan, did yours have the rubber cable guide? (upper right) Mine was cracked off the bracket. I may try tire/tube vulcanizing glue to see if re attachment is possible.

Also, there is the remains of a silver sticker on the top of the swing arm. I'm guessing a caution about battery vent tube routing. Just wondering if yours was there.

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May inspiration flow forth for your build.
 
That's interesting with that bolt in the main stand side on the bottom flange. Must be a custom piece of work to assist in pulling that beast up on the stand. ;)

There are a number of differences from the 175 series that I can see in the frame and rear brake area in the picture. I am sure you will find used parts and pieces in your searches. You must have some swap meets coming up in your area given the time of year. We have a large one for our National CVMG Paris Ontario meeting in mid June, which is a 3 day affair.
I will keep my eye open for pieces for you, if I know what your looking for parts wise.
 
ballbearian said:
Also, there is the remains of a silver sticker on the top of the swing arm. I'm guessing a caution about battery vent tube routing. Just wondering if yours was there.
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I just looked around to see if I could find anything on that sticker as I don't recall one in that position from back in the day, though I didn't see many 160s in my early years as they were already quickly disappearing from my area. There was no mention of a battery vent hose routing sticker. The only sticker I could find was the typical muffler sticker from Honda but it was on the left side of the swingarm in the middle under the chain guard facing outward. Makes me wonder if that wasn't a foil sticker applied by the dealer in a not so obtrusive location
 
Hmm. Could be a dealer sticker. Back then they didn't even have the usual: tire pressure, chain slack, batt vent tube. Kind of surprised you saw a muffler sticker. The seller 'misplaced' the owners manual on mine. Maybe, if it was Honda, mentioned there.

Alan, are those the rubber swing arm seals, I think you mentioned way back, as being missing? The inboard ones. They are kind of loose on mine, could see them falling away pretty easy and not entirely necessary.
 
Alan, Do remember any rim size markings on yours? Back then, They had not yet put the width and diameter AFAIK. I'm trying to find out before I order some asian rims. Mine measure 2 5/16 outside (my tires are still mounted so can't measure inside width) but the front on CB350 only measures 2 3/8 and I saw an OEM DID label on ebay that said 18 x 1.60W.
 
ballbearian said:
Hmm. Could be a dealer sticker. Back then they didn't even have the usual: tire pressure, chain slack, batt vent tube. Kind of surprised you saw a muffler sticker. The seller 'misplaced' the owners manual on mine. Maybe, if it was Honda, mentioned there.
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What you said made me think about the owner's manual and it turns out we have a CB160 owner's manual in our library. I looked through every page and the only picture showing the swingarm is this one, and it seems there was a sticker there but this looks like it was oriented differently though it could still be the same information.

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Yes I've got those inboard rubber swingarm seals, I've cleaned them up a little and will reassemble with them in place.

My wheels weren't marked either but I think they both measured 1.6" inside.
 
Alan F. said:
Yes I've got those inboard rubber swingarm seals, I've cleaned them up a little and will reassemble with them in place.

My wheels weren't marked either but I think they both measured 1.6" inside.
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I'm nervous to get the wheel out for a tyre change and to check that swing arm axle, hoping mine is not as bad as yours was.

Thanks for the rim width info. I will probably go for the alloys advertised as CB160 without any specs but the seller seems to say they are 1.60. Maybe he is being dodgy or it's a language thing. I did suggest he include pic of markings on the rim as that seems the norm for modern production.

Maybe should do a chart for rim widths. I checked my CT90 wheels and they are stamped 1.40 (2.75 knobby) and front '71 CB350 DID on Mom's is stamped 1.60 also.
 
Flyin900 said:
That's interesting with that bolt in the main stand side on the bottom flange. Must be a custom piece of work to assist in pulling that beast up on the stand. ;)

There are a number of differences from the 175 series that I can see in the frame and rear brake area in the picture. I am sure you will find used parts and pieces in your searches. You must have some swap meets coming up in your area given the time of year. We have a large one for our National CVMG Paris Ontario meeting in mid June, which is a 3 day affair.
I will keep my eye open for pieces for you, if I know what your looking for parts wise.
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I think you're right about the bolt. I miss a side stand. Might look at the blue Benly parts bike foot rest bracket if swappable.
Only thing missing, so far, is battery bracket, but the bungy works for now.
Alloy rims are ordered. Maybe extra hubs (find a whole front wheel) then have 2 sets of wheels.

Need to get it started again before getting sidetracked (already sidetracked from the Dream).
 
This week I've been trying walk-in visits to the RMV to title & register my Enfield 650, I'll keep trying walk-ins when possible but I've booked the next open appointment which is Friday at 2pm... Grumble.

I've started in on the dreaded task of drilling the swingarm pivot bolt end bores to 7/32". Without a workshop or even my lathe to use I've just been putting this off, until now. I charged up the old cordless drill battery and ran a few different size bits, stepping as slowly as possible up to 7/32" but the battery is back on the charger, I'll bore the final 7/32 soon. It was pretty easy for the first 2 drill sizes, the 3rd was tougher and I wasn't able to hold the bolt by hand without it spinning, I used an adjustable wrench on the head to hold it and went as slow as possible.

After the 7/32" I'll be ready to shop for some zerks, I understand 1/4-28 is a common enough thread size.

Edit: just finished drilling both ends of the pivot bolt to 7/32".

I drilled the same depth as the stock bore, then quenched the bolt in cold water. I probably weakened it some, I hope it wasn't a big mistake, but at least that's done.
 
Alan F. said:
This week I've been trying walk-in visits to the RMV to title & register my Enfield 650, I'll keep trying walk-ins when possible but I've booked the next open appointment which is Friday at 2pm... Grumble.

I've started in on the dreaded task of drilling the swingarm pivot bolt end bores to 7/32". Without a workshop or even my lathe to use I've just been putting this off, until now. I charged up the old cordless drill battery and ran a few different size bits, stepping as slowly as possible up to 7/32" but the battery is back on the charger, I'll bore the final 7/32 soon. It was pretty easy for the first 2 drill sizes, the 3rd was tougher and I wasn't able to hold the bolt by hand without it spinning, I used an adjustable wrench on the head to hold it and went as slow as possible.

After the 7/32" I'll be ready to shop for some zerks, I understand 1/4-28 is a common enough thread size.

Edit: just finished drilling both ends of the pivot bolt to 7/32".

I drilled the same depth as the stock bore, then quenched the bolt in cold water. I probably weakened it some, I hope it wasn't a big mistake, but at least that's done.
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Gad Zerks!
 
Time to get back to this one, I picked up a couple more gallons of Evaporust and a 1/4-28 tap for the swingarm pivot grease zerks today.

I've also got an idea to play out on these forks, stay tuned.
 
Alan F. said:
Time to get back to this one, I picked up a couple more gallons of Evaporust and a 1/4-28 tap for the swingarm pivot grease zerks today.

I've also got an idea to play out on these forks, stay tuned.
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Glad you are back to it. If you need my blocks for the fork seal housings, let me know, I can make more if I ever need them again.

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Thanks, I'll keep you in mind.

I'm planning on soaking the entire assembled fork in Evaporust before disassembly. I'll turn some grade 8 bolts on my lathe, making points that fit those seal housings, then I'll just thread them into my bench vise jaws and try to work from there using my bench vise as a pin spanner. If the bolts are short enough may be they won't flex before the housing threads break free.

Thoughts?
 
Alan F. said:
Thanks, I'll keep you in mind.

I'm planning on soaking the entire assembled fork in Evaporust before disassembly. I'll turn some grade 8 bolts on my lathe, making points that fit those seal housings, then I'll just thread them into my bench vise jaws and try to work from there using my bench vise as a pin spanner. If the bolts are short enough may be they won't flex before the housing threads break free.

Thoughts?
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Sounds like a workable plan. My plain blocks exerted enough grab, in a large 6 inch vise, without my drilling pins into the blocks for more grab. Even so, I needed about 3 feet of lever on the rod I used through the axle clamp to turn the lower out of the chrome seal housing.

Evaporust may or not do much to help, couldn't hurt. Successive soakings of PBblaster was the most helpful. I did not need to resort to heat but that was my next strategy.
 
Did you find much wear in your forks, gunk to clean out or parts to replace? Is a dump & refill possible on this style?
 
Alan F. said:
Did you find much wear in your forks, gunk to clean out or parts to replace? Is a dump & refill possible on this style?
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I used the drain bolts on the bottoms of the lowers, hoping to witness how much was left but it did not all come out at once. There was not much foul stuff though. I went for disassembly so I could remove a dent in the shroud just above the chrome housings and just wanted to make sure nothing was badly worn out and nothing really was. There was a lot of rust on those fine threads between lowers and the housing. I did not replace the seals down inside the housing, as they were hard to get to and I knew if I got them out I would destroy them in the process, even though I had gotten a pair of aftermarket replacements. So far no leaks but have not really rode the bike yet.

I would sacrifice some fluid/fork oil and dump/pump/refill/pump/dump/ refill, etc.. Those chrome housings are sick $ to replace, not an option for me.
 
I agree, and my chrome is actually in pretty good shape. There seems to be good damping going on when I compress the forks, is there rebound damping in this design?

I'm considering draining them and adding some warmed (container left in direct summer sunlight) denatured alcohol to thin any residual oil & crud. I'll dump & refil with denatured alcohol a few times then leave the forks in the sun with the drain screws off to let everything drain & evaporate as best it can.

My seals seem good as they are too, I think I'll clean them out and play it by ear whether I'll disassemble them or not.

I've ordered a container to soak the forks in, it's marketed as a Baseball Bat Display tube, simply a clear flexible plastic tube with stiff silicone end caps, 3" x 29" which will have ample room inside for one assembled fork, if my math is correct this size tube will hold 0.77 gallons in total, much less with the fork inside it. Hopefully this will clean everything up well enough that further steps won't be needed.
 
Do not use alcohol......after contact, the rubber will harden and you WILL be replacing seals......Use kerosene or diesel fuel to flush.....
 
Perfect, thank you.

It's good for cleaning drive chains too so any leftover won't go to waste.
 
Thank you, I've got some good ones on the way, I'll keep them with the rest of the parts hoard if I don't use them.

Did you use fork oil or ATF?
 
Received the clear plastic tube just now. 29" long and 2-3/4" diameter. The silicone rubber end caps have straight sides 1-1/4" high, so I'm thinking they'll seal pretty well. Each end cap has a 1mm vent hole that I've sealed with some white caulk for visibility, I suppose I'll give that 24 hours or so to cure before soaking the first fork.
 
My fork seals just arrived, I chose some on ebay by size, double lipped, 31 x 43 x 10.

Hoping the caulking I sealed the vent holes on those silicone end caps has cured well in this humidity,

I'll be putting the first fork in a little later on to soak intact in Evaporust in the hot attic area. I'll get pics.
 
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