What is this plastic start switch part on my 360 supposed to look like?

asdfqwer426

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I kind of expected this to be broken, as I know it's a known issue on these "disable the headlight and running lights to run the starter" type of switch bodies, but I didn't expect it to fall apart quite this well when I got the switch apart.

NuoemDr.jpeg

I'm trying to glue it back together now just to figure out what shape it's all supposed to be in, then I'll be trying to model and 3d print a replacement. I think I see how it's supposed to go together, but if anyone had a picture of the part, or the exact orientation of parts and metal bits here, it would certainly speed things up.

Thanks!
 
Much easier to replace the switch with an aftermarket reproduction unit. Usually cost around $40-$50 when available. Try 4 into 1 as a supplier for the replacement unit.
 
Much easier to replace the switch with an aftermarket reproduction unit. Usually cost around $40-$50 when available. Try 4 into 1 as a supplier for the replacement unit.
Easier for sure, but the printed part will cost me pennies and the switch is otherwise still fine. I also would hate to find the switch internals can't swap over due to internal differences and find I can't use my internally routed wires.

This is EXACTLY what I'm trying to do. Unfortunately it looks like that guy is no longer active and his "for sale" posts don't work anymore. using the cb550 as a search term though, I managed to find the file online!

Very glad I won't have to model that up, as my modeling skills are not the best and it takes me FOREVER.

To any other VHT members that need this part in the states, send me a message.
 
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Easier for sure, but the printed part will cost me pennies and the switch is otherwise still fine. I also would had to find the switch internals can't swap over due to internal differences and find I can't use my internally routed wires.
Just so you know for the future, the new switches come with wiring attached and you change the whole assembly (meaning you route the new wiring through the bars like the original).
 
Just so you know for the future, the new switches come with wiring attached and you change the whole assembly (meaning you route the new wiring through the bars like the original).
I know, it's just that I've routed two switches through bars before and am hoping to never have to do it again! I found it to be kind of a pain.
 
Yeah, it isn't a lot of fun but once you do a few you get used to the process, kinda like changing tires with tubes. :rolleyes:
yeah, I think I'm at about a 2/6 success rate on changing tires without popping tubes. Last time I tried this zip tie thing I saw on youtube though and it went pretty well! I'll be trying that again later this summer for this 360. Maybe get above 50% success! :ROFLMAO:
 
Well that worked perfect! It was about 3g of plastic, which comes out to about $0.05. took less than an hour to print on my older printer.
73atNkp.jpeg

fxT7899.jpeg

A2cWJre.jpeg


I really had to bend and press to get the wired switch plate in place at the top, but I managed to pop it in. Also, the bearing fell out into a corner of the bracket the first time I put it together. I found if I just removed/lifted the front half of the retaining plate on the bottom of it all, I could remove the button itself while keeping the rest of the parts in there. I used a bit more grease to hold the bearing in place the second time.
 
Well that worked perfect! It was about 3g of plastic, which comes out to about $0.05. took less than an hour to print on my older printer.

I really had to bend and press to get the wired switch plate in place at the top, but I managed to pop it in. Also, the bearing fell out into a corner of the bracket the first time I put it together. I found if I just removed/lifted the front half of the retaining plate on the bottom of it all, I could remove the button itself while keeping the rest of the parts in there. I used a bit more grease to hold the bearing in place the second time.
Nice combined effort between you, Alan and whoever did the post at SOHC4 the idea that caused you to do the search! (y)
 
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Well that worked perfect! It was about 3g of plastic, which comes out to about $0.05. took less than an hour to print on my older printer.
73atNkp.jpeg

fxT7899.jpeg

A2cWJre.jpeg


I really had to bend and press to get the wired switch plate in place at the top, but I managed to pop it in. Also, the bearing fell out into a corner of the bracket the first time I put it together. I found if I just removed/lifted the front half of the retaining plate on the bottom of it all, I could remove the button itself while keeping the rest of the parts in there. I used a bit more grease to hold the bearing in place the second time.

How did you source the model for printing? Was it on the 'other forum' thread?
 
How did you source the model for printing? Was it on the 'other forum' thread?
No, you must have missed it above, he found it here:

 
How did you source the model for printing? Was it on the 'other forum' thread?
I actually saw a picture of the model while just googling for the part, which led me to the thingiverse page. Then when I was looking more I found this other thread at sohc.

Honestly seems to me like the creator in the post you linked had a shop to sell his part and make money off it, but once this other guy showed up a few years back and put his model out there for free the first guy packed up and left. He even commented in the new post to link his shop where people could buy one of his and then never said another word.

Big thanks to "Mikerts_garage", the name of the user on SOHC that made the file. It's far, far better than I could have made.
 
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