Wish I had figured it out before splitting the cases. The shifter arm was not sitting between both ends of the spring and was jamming on it so I couldn't get full movement of the shifter. (Fixed in this picture)
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CA95 project(s)
- Thread starter oldjeep
- Start date
PITA that it was, glad you figured it out.
Spokes
Veteran Member
I've been smitten with the fact that the early Honda's (can't speak for later years) can be assembled slightly incorrectly and still run. Congrats finding the cause of the restricted shift issue.
Running was definitely not an issue. Just getting out of second
Glad you got it sorted out and no damage done. I recently did a dry run on my Dream transmission to see if it would shift and it was jamming up. Despite all of the pictures I took during the disassembly, I managed to flip one of the gears and had it facing the wrong way 
. Once turned around everything shifted beautifully.
. Once turned around everything shifted beautifully.Short lived victory. Took it for a ride, had all the gears and then suddenly a noise and running on one cylinder. Can't find the nut or valve adjuster. .
Guess engine is coming out again. But first just going to find a cylinder, head and pistons.
Guess engine is coming out again. But first just going to find a cylinder, head and pistons.
Spokes
Veteran Member
With needle nose pliers, capture the top pin with one end and the clip at the other end. If the chain is oily, clean chain link dry.
So - exacto knife worked. Lucked out for the most part. It was not in the cylinder. Little boogered up, so it got banged in something. Still wondering why that cylinder had/has 65psi compression - unless the stud/nut was stuck somewhere. Given how little investment it takes to just put it all back together - will try that and see what happens. I can compression test with engine on bench easily enough.
The rocker arm was still pushing the valve open a little bit, allowing it to still function enough to make some compression.
If it ain't one thing, it's another.
Spokes
Veteran Member
I linked my battery drain on my 62 to the ignition switch. When I opened up the ignition switch, I found green corrosion and original 1962 grease. I cleaned up the contacts and lubed the switch lightly with fresh dielectric grease and reassembled it. For what it's worth, I have a .5 volt drop from the ignition switch to the battery when the bike is running at idle. I'm better at nuts & bolts than contacts and volts, so I don't know if a .5 volt drop means anything.
I keep my battery fully charged because I take frequent short rides, just to be on the safe side.
I keep my battery fully charged because I take frequent short rides, just to be on the safe side.
Going to switch to an AGM battery, bike doesn't seem capable of putting out enough voltage to properly charge the LiFePo4 battery. For now, charged it up and rode it to the local car show. No issues with it running anymore. Last item to fix is figuring out where the petcock drip is coming from.
Now that it is working pretty well, working on the minor junk list
1) The centerstand bumper isn't touching anything, so it rubs on the lower chain guard. Adding something (that should probably be there) to the wart on the bottom of the exhaust pipe
2) Slight oil leak from the left side cover, pulled it off and put some gasket goo on it
3) Slight leak at the petcock - not sure if it is the flange, around the screws or where the base screws into the actual petcock - or even the petcock itself.
4) Headlight died. Headlight is full of what looks like old caulk. need to remove it and see if bulb is replaceable and if it is - dump out the crud and see if it matters
5) Couple paint touchups from removing the engine twice and the nicks on chainguard
1) The centerstand bumper isn't touching anything, so it rubs on the lower chain guard. Adding something (that should probably be there) to the wart on the bottom of the exhaust pipe
2) Slight oil leak from the left side cover, pulled it off and put some gasket goo on it
3) Slight leak at the petcock - not sure if it is the flange, around the screws or where the base screws into the actual petcock - or even the petcock itself.
4) Headlight died. Headlight is full of what looks like old caulk. need to remove it and see if bulb is replaceable and if it is - dump out the crud and see if it matters
5) Couple paint touchups from removing the engine twice and the nicks on chainguard
Spokes
Veteran Member
If your headlight is OEM then it is sealed. I have replaced headlight bulbs (even LED's) in old, sealed headlights. You will need a fiber deburring wheel to remove the lens crimp to release the glass lens.
Using a strong soldering iron (no flame) you can melt the lead solder and release the bulb from the reflector base. Install new bulb and reseal lens with clear silicon gasket maker. Then solder leads on the new bulb to connect to the harness.
That oil leak? Like my 62, the push rod seal and or the shiftshaft seal weeps after a few miles of use. The aforementioned seals may not be as robust as yesteryear seals and/or shafts may be rough or worn. I gave up trying to fix the occasional oil drip. My kitchen got a new cookie pan and the 62 got the old one.
Using a strong soldering iron (no flame) you can melt the lead solder and release the bulb from the reflector base. Install new bulb and reseal lens with clear silicon gasket maker. Then solder leads on the new bulb to connect to the harness.
That oil leak? Like my 62, the push rod seal and or the shiftshaft seal weeps after a few miles of use. The aforementioned seals may not be as robust as yesteryear seals and/or shafts may be rough or worn. I gave up trying to fix the occasional oil drip. My kitchen got a new cookie pan and the 62 got the old one.
I was seeing various things about the headlight and had not removed it yet. So I guess I will see if I can fix the original. Thanks! Repro from Thailand looks like $80
It only started leaking after the last time I had the engine out and had removed the left side cover. Was dripping right around where the starter is. The paper gasket got a little boogered up so I popped it off and used some black permagoo. Seems fine now.
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